2000 Acura TL

I am finally installing a new system in my car and I was going to purchase a 1 farad capacitor or not...

I have one 4 channel 300 watt rms amp and another mono block 420 watt rms amp. Do you think my lights will dim when bass hits or anything with our stock alternator?

 

Ok... I actually understand the argument... Hmm..

My question is that I have a 105a alternator stock right? according to this

http://www.carsdirect.com/research/a...00/32/features

then I have this useful link for some reason lol

http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

Ok.. Back to my question... With the power I'm running( in my opinion isn't that hardcore) using the stock 105a alternator... Do you think my lights will dim? I'm going to do the big 3, but not unless I notice dimming lights.

If they won't dim then I might use a cap because this dude will give me one for cheap with the install for a smoother current draw to my speakers.

I won't be using a cap to solve a light dimming problem.

 

What brand and model are the amps?

 

Most likely you WILL NOT need a cap IF it is done RIGHT. Just have them use some bigger guage wires. Should be ok.

You can always add a cap later.. but they are like bandaids shouldn't be needed with a GOOD install

 

1st generation Sony Sony XM-754HX 4 channel 300 watt amp 75x4 @ 4 ohms

MTX Thunder 421D mono block amp 420 watts @ 2 ohms.

 

I will be running 23 ft of 4 guage stinger wire with an ANL fuse to a cap or not... then to a fused distribution block then 8 guage out to the amps.

 

i don't think you'll need anything.

105A alternator is pretty good. I've ran more power off a 80A alternator.

and if math has taught me anything it is Power = Current X Voltage
lets say you are running the full 720W (which you probably aren't)
and lets say your car is running 12V

Current = 720/12 = 60A

but then again, i'm one of those that feel Caps do crap. and your money would be better spent towards a deep cycle battery or something of that sort. other people have different opinions, and some people are more bothered by dimming lights than others. but with those amps, i think you'll be fine without anything.

 

If the amps are not fully regulated then id go with a cap. If your worried about not enough power (which you shouldnt be) get a yellow top battery.

 

I know what all the stuff does... Cap provides smoother power and helps the amps in a quicker burst (not supply magic power)... I understand that... more power would come from a new expensive alternator.. Optima battery is good for quicker/smoother charge/discharge pool of power... Big 3 upgrade will help current flow...

You said Current = 720/12 = 60A .. I have a 105a alt I think... I don't know if they put a better one in the TL's with Navi...

so 60A + however much it takes to run the car and Navi, seats, etc...

 

I was just going to increase the current flow with the big 3 upgrade and then throw a cap in for good measure... If my lights ever dim I'll go get a optima... then do the alternator...

see the big 3 is like $50 and not hard to do from what I've heard if you know what you're doing.

The cap is like $45-100

The Optima Yellow is like $150 with tax

A new alternator is like what $300 with labor and all or more... I don't know

I think If I do the first 2 I'll probably be okay assuming that the Navi doesn't draw too much if I have a 105a alternator.

 

you won't need the cap.. however you can always add that after the fact IF you think you need it.

I am running 2500+ watts in my 3rd gen at a 130A I think.. and I don't have any problems.. So I don't think you will have any problems with the 105A.

Again.. they are just bandaid's for a poor install. Get 0 guage wire and you will be FINE.

Ryan

 

sweet jesus- he does not need 0 awg wire for an xplode 4 channel and a 400W mono amp. 4awg will be fine- and if you ever notice dimming lights or navi display when the bass hits slap a cap on there and you will be fine (but, with what you're running- I highly doubt that will happen). You deffinately wont need a new alternator, and as for a new battery- if you're still on the factory batt then living in Tx you will probably be due one soon. When your current batt takes a dump then think about upgrading to a deep cycle battery if you fell like it. But you definately dont need one for the stuff you're gonna be running.

 

you will be fine - but the capacitor wont hurt at all because I dont know about if those amps have a regulated power supply. if they dont - I would get a capacitor - if they do, a cap isnt necessary at all. And 4 guage power wire is plenty thick.

I have 1100+watts RMS and I am just fine and I dont have a Yellow Top battery. I got the capacitor because the Kicker amps have a "loosely" regulated power supply, so they can benefit from the capacitor. And the Optima battery really only helps if you want to listen to the music with the car off - you can blast the stereo with the car off with one, and its pretty cool and helpfull at times

 

Ok why "bandaid" a shitty install with a cap when you can just add the PROPER wiring for a minimal cost upfront. Cause if he ever wants to upgrade again, LIKE EVERYONE IN THE WORLD DOES, he won't have to pull all the wiring to upgrade it later..

Why half ass a job when you can do it RIGHT the first time..

Sweet jesus CAPS are made for profit from companies cause they make people think they need them all the damn time. Get a Yellow top and the proper wiring NOW and save yourself the trouble later. Cause in a few months maybe a year he is gonna want a bigger louder system.

Ryan

 

a 4 guage power wire can handle 150 amps of power...unless he doubles his system, that will be plenty of copper to take the power back. Thick ass 0/1 guage is overkill big time.

plus capacitors are worth it if your amps power supply can benefit - true they are worthless and only for looks if you have an amp with regulated power supplies (JL Audio amps for example)

and you obviously arent getting 2500 watts RMS out of your system with the stock alternator - no way. You would need 2500/14.4 = 173.6 amps at least (and that is only for the system not even what the car needs)

so you will have problems if you dont. a 130 amp alternator at 14.4 volt will push out a little over 1800 watts MAX - good luck with getting 2500...

 

I was browsing the Zapco site & downloaded their PDF and came across this. Hope it helps. This is directly from the PDF




200w=25amps