This question may be asked before but I cant seem to find the answer.

I was thinking of upgrading my front speakers. I understand that most people here will recommend the Alpine S components. I was thinking more of the Boston S60s because of the efficiency rating.
From what I understand the Boston will be louder compared to the Alpine S which would be a good idea since I will be running them off the Factory HU and amp.

Now my main question is when I install these would it be a problem if I just swap the speakers and not go through the provided crossover? The stock amp's built in crossover sends certain frequencies to the doors, tweets and rear deck anyways. So I figure installing the Boston crossovers will just be more work that might even hurt the sound stage. Am I correct??
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The Boston crossovers come with those speakers for a reason. The crossover frequencies in the crossovers are there for a reason. Use them.

 

I would use them, I didn't use crossovers in my 4runner with the stock wiring, and I will be replacing and redoing them to include the crossovers, like Matt said, they're there for a reason

 

Completely agree. If you are going to stick with a passive arrangement, it is critical to use a passive crossover made for the speakers you are using. Crossover point, phase, baffle-step correction... all of that is incorporated in a proper crossover. Boston speakers are quite good, I think I would buy the ones you picked out given all else equal, as well. But I'd definitely install those tweeters in the A-pillar.

 

There are too many variables to make a general statement about installing your components directly (without the supplied crossovers). You will not damage your tweeters if you do because the TSX factory amp not only has an internal electronic high pass but an in line cap to protect the tweeters. The problem is you will be at the mercy of the factory amps crossover point and that might not sound so good, but it might sound fine, no way to tell.
If you do install the component crossovers and feed them from the doors you will be losing some high frequencies and basically limiting your high end tweeter output.
There is really no good way to recombine the factory amp tweeter channels with the door channels to produce a full range signal for the component crossovers. To get the full use out of the components you need to use the crossovers they came with. To use the crossovers they came with you need to feed them with a good full range signal (from a good amp).
Try them directly off the factory amp and see if you like it.

Jeff

 

thanks for the imput. I am hearing a lot of views. Everyone here saysto use the crossovers. I have talked to a couple installers and they said the stock amp signal is already seperated by the crossovers in the amp already and it is not neccesary to install the passive crossovers. I dont know. If i was to install the crossovers which line do i use to wire in the crossover? Is the door speaker a full range signal or tweeter?

 

what efficiency do you speak of?

that 92 is more than likely @ 2w, not 1.

 

I don't know about that? What doesthat mean?

i basically need some speakers i can run off the factory amp. I heard the Alpine S will work but you have to turn the volume up. Is there any other components that will work without having to use much power?

 

read what I posted, that's all you need to know.

Jeff

 

Well there ya go. I had no idea the factory output was already crossed over actively. That of course is not typical so the rules change given that. In a situation such as this, you might want to consider separates rather than a pre-packaged component set. You'll get a LOT more for your money, and you can buy products that more closely match the crossover point of the active arrangement in the car. Knowing the crossover point and slope would be invaluable right now. DIY speakers are going to run far less than any decent component set. THIS I know.

 

I have read what you have posted and thanks for your imput.

What I am asking now is that does anyone have any recommendations of component sets that are more efficent than the type S? I dont want to lose volume since I feel that the Factory system is a little underpowered.


thanks

 

dude if someone just knew the cross points, and slope, this would be a LOT easier. I have to know those before I can model up a solution with DIY drivers. DIY stuff can be very efficient, inexpensive, and probably more suited to this active-crossover environment.

 

I posted the xover points for the factory amp back in 2007 and somewhere I have a plot of the output(s) that I’ll try to dig out. In any case the 3dB point on the front is around 5KHz if I remember correctly. That 5k might be the 6dB point I can’t remember now.

OP, I think your main concern is output level and if this is the case you are taking the wrong approach. Using a speakers SPL rating to try and make a system play louder will likely result in a loss of SQ. Replacing the factory amp with a good aftermarket unit will not only boost the output level but will improve SQ as well. Doing this will allow you to install a component set that you like the sound of rather then a set or separates with hi SPL ratings that might end up sounding like a tin horn. The factory speakers are very efficient but lack SQ compared to most aftermarket types. Efficiency is not a good spec to use in selecting speakers; it is more for designing xovers to match driver levels. If you have a good ear you will be happier with SQ over volume, some home systems run a 7 watt triode tube amp in the quest for SQ; doesn’t play loud but sounds great.
Buy a set of speakers you like the sound of, and then if you need more volume install an amp, this is half the fun of audio mods, the sky is always the limit and there is always room for improvement. It never ends…it’s kind of a sickness really,
Cheers
Jeff

 

So a simple amp install would require using the Pac amp harness that will give me 2 pairs of RCA which is 4 channels. That will be the front components and rear door speakers. What about the rear 6x9s? Or should i just not use them and use the door speakers only?


BTW do you still sell the Mercman harness?

 

to run your alpine with their own cross over you'll need to install aftermarket amp. if you do, i suggest getting a 4 channel amp and power the whole system. you wont be using your rear door, remove the 6x9 on the rear deck, and use a 10inch sub. that will give you plenty of sound. Recommend going with JL, Alpine, or RF as i know those accept differential balance input if you're gonna splice into factory line for the signal. And i think there's even harness out there where you dont have to splice into factory harness without the use of anything special. I'm want to redo my wiring so i dont have to splice into the factory line. just havent done the research yet.

I'm currently using:
Alpine SPX-137R component
JL 10w3v3-4ohm - online $130 .. made the box myself $30 for the MDF board
Alpine PDX-F6 (150wx4: 150x2 to front, 300x1 bridge to sub) - online $400-440
No speaker in rear door
No 6x9 woofer on rear deck

Sounds damn good.

 

a 5k crossover point is a bit crazy for 6.5" drivers, as beaming occurs far before then. I'm somewhat shocked at that. At any rate, DIY drivers definitely can do this if you pick the right ones.

 

Others have indicated this, but I will cast another vote for getting a different amp before you decide to put in hi-end speakers like those from Boston. Otherwise, it would be like driving a Mercedes with a Geo Metro engine.

I don't know the factory amp's quality and crossover points in theory, but just from using my ears, I can tell you that it is very generic and the whole system is muddy as all hell. The mid-bass, especially, is seriously lacking and the sub bass is too hyped and unrefined. Also, there is no detail/imaging in the sound that you would get from a medium to hi-end system.

Don't get me wrong, the stock Acura system is still better than a lot that's out there, but if you're gonna go aftermarket then do it right. I'd suggest a good aftermarket amp first (Audison and Helix on the hi-end of things or Alpine and Polk Audio for good performance).

Another option you have if you want to keep the factory amp is to just get individual midbass speakers that are not components and individual tweeters. Just make sure the power ratings match those of the amp. I think this would be the most hassle-free way to go and it is something I'm pondering myself unless I can get enough money to overhaul the entire sound system.

Basically, the way the Acura audio system is setup you have to be content with small changes of go big, in my opinion.