Hello to fellow ziners, I have a request for you guys... I am in market to buy subwoofer and an amplifier for my stock headunit. I just want to add some bass and disable factory sub and amp. I need some recommendations on amp and sub. I only have $200 to spend. I know I know it's not enough money lol.

 

What type of music do you listen to? Would you like droning bass, for music genres similar to rap, or very quick, sharp bass, such as in rock music? That would make your decision between a ported or a solid box for the subwoofer.

Secondly, are you familiar with how you will be hooking it up? It's rather simple, but it's good to know ahead of time to know what to expect.

Actually, $200 is more than enough. A common misconception is that you need 2 12's, $400, and an entirely empty trunk to have any solid bass. That is far from the case. I currently run a Kicker SoloBaric 10" L5 sub, which I purchased used for $90. I purchased a $60 (also used) Kicker 300.2 amp, which I intended on bridging, but never got around to it. With a 1 cubic foot box, the 300 RMS Kicker (without bridging, it is only putting out 150 RMS), and a 450 RMS/900 max Kicker sub, I can get the trunk lid to shake violently, knock a drink off the top of the car, and shake the mirrors to the point at which they need readjusting. Since the box is solid, with the bass turned up on a rock song, it'll punch you in the chest with how hard it hits. It'll still drone out to a rap song, just not nearly as much as a ported box would. That's $150 without wiring, but that should only run you about $20. Build your own box and you're set; it'll probably be worlds better than any pre-made box you will buy.

Keep in mind this is running at half its potential on the amp, and one third of its potential as far as the sub is concerned. You don't need a bagillion bucks to shake the hell out of your car. Have fun, buddy. Let me know if you have any questions, since I just wrapped up this project about four months ago.

 

I sent you a pm

 

Is there a factory auxiliary input? What about running an aftermarket on the factory audio input for the stock amp? Just spitballing here but...

 

grab a 12" infinity reference 1262w. shop around for a boss audio amp.and dont forget the amplifier intallation wires the crossover since ur using the stock head unit. with that u should be around ur budget.

 

I have system for sale. 1000 watt amp, 1000 watt sub. I connected them to my tl and sound good with factory stereo. For sale if your are still looking. 140$ lol

 

BOSS setup would be okay. Just going with the super cheap stuff is just stupid 98.8 % of the time. Avoid boss, low end JLs(>100) ,and pyle.
Setups
10in not meant for heavy BASS more of a mids to low Generally punchier can be cleaner than a 12 but thats a on going debate
12in good for heavy low BASS and the rumbles but it still hits hard just not as clean.(debatable)
In this case avoid anything bigger do to price range ( it will suck for the money)
I'd say an 8in sub would be not what you looking for and can be costly quick but they are soooo awesome!
Honestly either, 10 or a 12 will be great cause its more than you have now
Brands are important
-infinity -pioneer -kicker -alpine -rockford fosgate there's others but this is getting long! (I recommend these because they're big name brands and can put out the cheaper stuff and generally can meet expectations for a lower cost, just know you're not repin a comp system.
Id recommend a 10 cause its gonna be slightly cheaper like 170ish for a setup heres an example set up
Amazon= cheap's best friend aka where we all shop for audio!
Rockford Fosgate Prime R1S410 R1 40ish
universal box 30ish
Rockford Fosgate R250X1 Prime 100ish (best in the business for amps)
the amp and the sub were meant for each other not necessary but always nice RMS is the important part when matching subs with amps
the other 30 would be for a for a wiring kit (8 gauge or lower recommend) if you don't have one! good luck!!!!!!!!