I was working on my sound system today, bc it wasn't working.. figured out the Ground to the chassis came lose, then i decided i'd rewire it so both amps are running right... but ran into issues... through trial and error i found out that both amps work they power my spare 15" kicker, but only my R sub will work i have the [OO] setup. Power cables connect to the sub by those little push down terminals at the end of the box.

Im a newb with sound, so im wondering if the sub itself is blown so is that why its not moving at all? Or did one of the power connections from the terminal to the sub come lose? I didn't have time today to tear into the box and see if thats the case, so i wanted to ask the experts if thats even a possibility?

This is a shot of while i was testing the amps

From this angle it shows the left sub as the dead one.. while the left amp is working and will push the right sub, or my spare sub.

This is how i ended up doing it so i atleast have 1 sub hitting



Not sure what the subs are, came installed when i bought the car 4 years ago. All i know is that they are 10" JBL

I have no idea about the RMS and Max Wattage.

Amps are, JBL powervalve BP300.1 1oHm http://cgi.ebay.com/JBL-PowerValve-B...item414a89f424

Can anyone enlighten me? Sub blown.. throw it away and get a new one? Or is it possible i just need new terminals?

 

Grab a Digital Multimeter. They're a lifesaver when shit hits the fan in an audio system. Here's what to check:

1. DC voltage at the power and ground terminals on the amp pushing the sub that's not working. It should show something between 12 and 14v.

2. AC voltage on the speaker wire outputs of the amp powering the sub that's not working. If you're playing music, this number will fluxuate a good deal, but it should still show something. You may want to unhook the speaker before you do this test.

3. Ohms of resistance in the wires between the sub that's not working and the amp powering it. If you check the one that is working (you'll have to unhook it from the amp to get a good reading) this will be the number you're looking for on the one that's not working. This is probably the first thing I would check. If you get a value that fluxuates like crazy for the sub, then it is blown. The sub that's not working should rest at a certain value after a short period of time.

Test those, and report back.

 

Sounds like loose wires to me