Amp/Sub Install HELP!
06-17-2003, 10:11 PM
#1
Black is a ***** to Clean
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Amp/Sub Install HELP!
Hi Guys,
OK, I have the PPI 320watt amp & box sealed 10W6 sub I bought from NOVA. I plan to just add the amp just to power the sub. Everything else is left Bose-ey
I bought a Monster Sound AMP install kit, line converter, speaker wire, and a RCA-to-RCA cable (from converter to new amp)
I spent hours today tryin to install...reminding me of my quite lengthy INTAKE install (oh god!). I got the wiring done from the battery to inside past the firewall and down under the sills.
So here I am, around five hours since starting taking a LONG "break", thinkin how easy it would have been to have someone ELSE install it for some dough.
Many, manyyyy QUESTIONS!
1. How the hell do you get BOTH of the clips in the HOOD RELEASE trim piece to get back on? I can only seem to get the top most one on. I spent at least 45 min. alone on that just to get it decent.
2. Once your past the door sills, you get to the backseat area. Am I suppose to pull off the entire trim (handle, leather, wood piece)? How the hell do I snake a power cable from the sills to reach the back of the seats?
3. I finally quite my night after those fuckin seats. How do you get em off? I was told there is no bolts and that I just need to PULL UP on the seats. I tried pretty damn hard, I think I heard something beginning to RIP!
4. In the trunk, I'm readin in some threads that you need to remove the trunk lining to access the stock amp. I took off the plastic piece covering the trunk LATCH, the tool kit, the carpet floor covering spare, and now am able to pull away PART of the side lining revealing the amp. Am I supposed to take off ALL of the SIDE lining (should i do the left side's lining too?). I find that all the lining against the rear of the trunk is pretty much resistant to being removed. I feel a grommet or plug in a weird location behind some of that resistant lining which i think is causing me trouble.
5. After I SOMEHOW get past all the crap, now comes the amp wiring. Do I tap the wires coming out/in (hard to tell) of the stock amp? How do I go about taping the rear speakers? Do I do both left and right? or just one channel?
6. The ACT of taping.. Do I put in the wire to be taped, and then place the new wire on top of that? then press down the cut tab?
I thank anyone who spent the time to read this. I really need to stop doing this projects on my own!
OK, I have the PPI 320watt amp & box sealed 10W6 sub I bought from NOVA. I plan to just add the amp just to power the sub. Everything else is left Bose-ey
I bought a Monster Sound AMP install kit, line converter, speaker wire, and a RCA-to-RCA cable (from converter to new amp)
I spent hours today tryin to install...reminding me of my quite lengthy INTAKE install (oh god!). I got the wiring done from the battery to inside past the firewall and down under the sills.
So here I am, around five hours since starting taking a LONG "break", thinkin how easy it would have been to have someone ELSE install it for some dough.
Many, manyyyy QUESTIONS!
1. How the hell do you get BOTH of the clips in the HOOD RELEASE trim piece to get back on? I can only seem to get the top most one on. I spent at least 45 min. alone on that just to get it decent.
2. Once your past the door sills, you get to the backseat area. Am I suppose to pull off the entire trim (handle, leather, wood piece)? How the hell do I snake a power cable from the sills to reach the back of the seats?
3. I finally quite my night after those fuckin seats. How do you get em off? I was told there is no bolts and that I just need to PULL UP on the seats. I tried pretty damn hard, I think I heard something beginning to RIP!
4. In the trunk, I'm readin in some threads that you need to remove the trunk lining to access the stock amp. I took off the plastic piece covering the trunk LATCH, the tool kit, the carpet floor covering spare, and now am able to pull away PART of the side lining revealing the amp. Am I supposed to take off ALL of the SIDE lining (should i do the left side's lining too?). I find that all the lining against the rear of the trunk is pretty much resistant to being removed. I feel a grommet or plug in a weird location behind some of that resistant lining which i think is causing me trouble.
5. After I SOMEHOW get past all the crap, now comes the amp wiring. Do I tap the wires coming out/in (hard to tell) of the stock amp? How do I go about taping the rear speakers? Do I do both left and right? or just one channel?
6. The ACT of taping.. Do I put in the wire to be taped, and then place the new wire on top of that? then press down the cut tab?
I thank anyone who spent the time to read this. I really need to stop doing this projects on my own!
06-18-2003, 06:48 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
you'll need to pop out the rear seat behind the drivers seat to be able to snake the power cable through. use a wedge or something...put it under the seat and pry it up. it will pop out....some are a little tougher then others to remove. then get a hanger, tape one end of the hanger to the end of your power cable really well and snake the power cable under the carpet till you get it out close to the rear seat.
you can remove the entire trunk lining if you want. it will make routing the aftermarket power cable easier when you do your install. but if you are gonna access just the bose amp, you just need to remove the jack side of the lining. remove that white hook looking screw too.
you done't need any wire from the bose amp except the remote start to remotely power your aftermarket amp. to get the signal for the sub amp, just tap into the rear speakers. lay on your back inside your trunk ( make sure it doesn't close on you), look up and just tap into those wires. does the ppi have speaker inputs or line level inputs only. if speaker inputs, you don't need the line out converter. and yes, tap into both rear speakers.
didn't quite understand what you meant by "act of taping".
if you need help, i'm in VA. would be glad to assist in the install.
you can remove the entire trunk lining if you want. it will make routing the aftermarket power cable easier when you do your install. but if you are gonna access just the bose amp, you just need to remove the jack side of the lining. remove that white hook looking screw too.
you done't need any wire from the bose amp except the remote start to remotely power your aftermarket amp. to get the signal for the sub amp, just tap into the rear speakers. lay on your back inside your trunk ( make sure it doesn't close on you), look up and just tap into those wires. does the ppi have speaker inputs or line level inputs only. if speaker inputs, you don't need the line out converter. and yes, tap into both rear speakers.
didn't quite understand what you meant by "act of taping".
if you need help, i'm in VA. would be glad to assist in the install.
06-18-2003, 07:59 AM
#3
Find beauty in dissonance
Not sure about the hood release trim. I did not have any major problems with it.
After the door sill, my power cable is behind the side molding/trim & under the cushion. I did not run it under the rug. With one rear seat cushion out it was wasy to do.
I believe you only need to take out one rear seat cushion to get the power in the trunk. Pull up on the front of one cushion. You can see the front clip and rear hook in the picture.
Next time ask for help and set up a mini-meet. :P
After the door sill, my power cable is behind the side molding/trim & under the cushion. I did not run it under the rug. With one rear seat cushion out it was wasy to do.
I believe you only need to take out one rear seat cushion to get the power in the trunk. Pull up on the front of one cushion. You can see the front clip and rear hook in the picture.
Next time ask for help and set up a mini-meet. :P
06-20-2003, 01:40 AM
#5
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OK guys...here is where I'm at
Everything was wired up except I had tap the LEFT rear speaker only since the wires on the line converter were not long enough to reach more than one speaker. I had powered up the amp and the bass was decent, but it felt like it was being underpowered. The only way I had decent (but still lacking) bass was to have the amp set to FULL instead of the recommend LOW PASS. I also had the gain cranked to near 100% and the DB BOOST (QBASS) was half-way up.
After talking to some people online I was told to go and have BOTH speakers (L & R) tapped. I did that tonite but ran into a big problem!
After I tapping the other speaker and tidying up the trunk I went and powered my car.........NO BASS.....my amp's power LED was not lit. SHIT! I checked my connections and realized my GROUND connection to the chassis had come undone from its mounting place. I remounted it better, but the amp was STILL not getting power. I did notice that when I connected the ground back correctly, the LED flickered for a second. I thought maybe I had blown a fuse. I went to the fuse holder on the power cable and pulled out the fuse (dumb, cuz the battery was connected to it) and I saw a little spark when the male prongs of the fuse left the female slot (heh.. slot
) a little spark came out. I checked over the fuse and it did not look to be blown (the circuit was still intact).
I don't know what to dooooooo..! I don't think the fuse IN the amp is messed up because supposedly this amp has all these safety features that prevent power problems in the amp.
What problems would happen if I had power from battery going to amp W/O the grounding cable secured to chassis?
Everything was wired up except I had tap the LEFT rear speaker only since the wires on the line converter were not long enough to reach more than one speaker. I had powered up the amp and the bass was decent, but it felt like it was being underpowered. The only way I had decent (but still lacking) bass was to have the amp set to FULL instead of the recommend LOW PASS. I also had the gain cranked to near 100% and the DB BOOST (QBASS) was half-way up.
After talking to some people online I was told to go and have BOTH speakers (L & R) tapped. I did that tonite but ran into a big problem!
After I tapping the other speaker and tidying up the trunk I went and powered my car.........NO BASS.....my amp's power LED was not lit. SHIT! I checked my connections and realized my GROUND connection to the chassis had come undone from its mounting place. I remounted it better, but the amp was STILL not getting power. I did notice that when I connected the ground back correctly, the LED flickered for a second. I thought maybe I had blown a fuse. I went to the fuse holder on the power cable and pulled out the fuse (dumb, cuz the battery was connected to it) and I saw a little spark when the male prongs of the fuse left the female slot (heh.. slot
) a little spark came out. I checked over the fuse and it did not look to be blown (the circuit was still intact).I don't know what to dooooooo..! I don't think the fuse IN the amp is messed up because supposedly this amp has all these safety features that prevent power problems in the amp.
What problems would happen if I had power from battery going to amp W/O the grounding cable secured to chassis?
12-31-2003, 04:20 PM
#7
Racer
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If you had power going to the amp without grounding it, I think the circuit would just not be complete and the amp wouldnt turn on. Is tappng the same thing as splicing?? If so, I ran into a problem with that also. I just went back and checked them all and secured them (pressed the splicer things together harder) and it worked.
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01-03-2004, 06:29 PM
#9
Black is a ***** to Clean
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Yea I fixed it that night back in June! The other end of the ground cable that was under a washer & screw to the chassis had come off.
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