Alternator Whine 2001 CLS

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-14-2008, 09:45 PM
  #1  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
blackasscls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 368
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Alternator Whine 2001 CLS

Hey guys im pretty new to the acura scene i went from daewoo to cls so it was quite a jump. Anyway I put in an alpine HU and just used the RCA wiring harness from metra and soldered all my connections. Turn on the car and wow it sounds 30 times nicer in there. So after a seamless instal i turn it down and buzzzzzzzzzzzz. Sweet so of all the cars i installed stereos in my acura has whine. Tore it all apart today and tried every possible ground in the car, still there. Some asshole at best buy keeps giving me the shit about the factory amp still being in the car but i want to find a way to have this setup without any buzz. I plan on getting a new amp and speakers but im worried about power draw b/c i already have an amp pulling 1000watts rms and a capacitor and i just dont know if the acura can handle it. Help appreciated.
Old 11-14-2008, 10:58 PM
  #2  
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
 
uncald4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Gig Harbor, WA.
Age: 47
Posts: 2,376
Received 54 Likes on 31 Posts
Originally Posted by blackasscls
Hey guys im pretty new to the acura scene i went from daewoo to cls so it was quite a jump. Anyway I put in an alpine HU and just used the RCA wiring harness from metra and soldered all my connections. Turn on the car and wow it sounds 30 times nicer in there. So after a seamless instal i turn it down and buzzzzzzzzzzzz. Sweet so of all the cars i installed stereos in my acura has whine. Tore it all apart today and tried every possible ground in the car, still there. Some asshole at best buy keeps giving me the shit about the factory amp still being in the car but i want to find a way to have this setup without any buzz. I plan on getting a new amp and speakers but im worried about power draw b/c i already have an amp pulling 1000watts rms and a capacitor and i just dont know if the acura can handle it. Help appreciated.
You're probably using a plastic dash kit. In the CL the deck needs to have a chassis ground and not just the ground from the harness. The dash kit holds your new radio away from the OEM metal radio brackets. If you pull the deck and run a ground from the chassis of the deck to the OEM steel brackets your noise will most likely go away.

Also, you should have used an OEM-2 from PAC because you're piping signal into the factory amp.

Lastly.... tell that shitbag at BestBuy to shut his trap. If he knew two shits about car audio he might have a real job.
Old 11-14-2008, 10:59 PM
  #3  
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
 
uncald4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Gig Harbor, WA.
Age: 47
Posts: 2,376
Received 54 Likes on 31 Posts
Sorry Tweek. You're an exception.
Old 11-15-2008, 04:04 AM
  #4  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
blackasscls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 368
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by uncald4
You're probably using a plastic dash kit. In the CL the deck needs to have a chassis ground and not just the ground from the harness. The dash kit holds your new radio away from the OEM metal radio brackets. If you pull the deck and run a ground from the chassis of the deck to the OEM steel brackets your noise will most likely go away.

Also, you should have used an OEM-2 from PAC because you're piping signal into the factory amp.

Lastly.... tell that shitbag at BestBuy to shut his trap. If he knew two shits about car audio he might have a real job.
Agreed, that guy is so set on me dishing out 800+ dollars to replace my bose with another fucking system when honestly I dont mind the bose, i actually like it a lot. He also tried to tell me my sub sucks because its a fifteen and not in a ported box, all it needed was tweeking beause alpine heads are a bitch like that and im not used to having to set 4 diff parameters for bass alone. The sub is a Type R with an alpine amp giving it 850 at 2 ohms stable the reason it seemed quiet was because of all the sound deadening acuras have where as the daewoo was basically a hollow tin can.
Old 11-15-2008, 04:15 AM
  #5  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
blackasscls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 368
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by uncald4
You're probably using a plastic dash kit. In the CL the deck needs to have a chassis ground and not just the ground from the harness. The dash kit holds your new radio away from the OEM metal radio brackets. If you pull the deck and run a ground from the chassis of the deck to the OEM steel brackets your noise will most likely go away.

Also, you should have used an OEM-2 from PAC because you're piping signal into the factory amp.

Lastly.... tell that shitbag at BestBuy to shut his trap. If he knew two shits about car audio he might have a real job.
Agreed, that guy is so set on me dishing out 800+ dollars to replace my bose with another fucking system when honestly I dont mind the bose, i actually like it a lot. He also tried to tell me my sub sucks because its a fifteen and not in a ported box, all it needed was tweeking beause alpine heads are a bitch like that and im not used to having to set 4 diff parameters for bass alone. The sub is a Type R with an alpine amp giving it 850 at 2 ohms stable the reason it seemed quiet was because of all the sound deadening acuras have where as the daewoo was basically a hollow tin can.Oh and ive tried every possible ground in the car even the bolts holding on my doors, no go. I looked up oem 2 and im now interested, im also looking at 2 pairs of rca ground loop isolators.
Old 11-15-2008, 01:04 PM
  #6  
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
 
uncald4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Gig Harbor, WA.
Age: 47
Posts: 2,376
Received 54 Likes on 31 Posts
Originally Posted by blackasscls
Agreed, that guy is so set on me dishing out 800+ dollars to replace my.... daewoo... skeet skeet. ground loop isolator..
No ground loop isolators! You tried grounding the metal case of the deck to the metal brackets in the car and it didn't work? Hmmm....

The OEM-2 is a must on the CL. That RSX Metra harness with the RCA pigtails was not meant for the CL's amped system.

Ground loop isolators will cut the top of your frequency range completely off when put in line with the audio signal. As a last resort look at buying a GLI that goes in line with your power and ground wires from the deck. Radio Shack should have these. We use them quite a bit in vehicle video systems so that noise doesn't leak into the video signal.
Old 11-21-2008, 01:19 AM
  #7  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
blackasscls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 368
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by uncald4

The OEM-2 is a must on the CL.
What does putting this in really help with and what all is required to install it? If i can turbo a daewoo i think i can figure this one out I just don't have the excess funds to throw at the pac oem 2 at the moment.
Old 11-21-2008, 01:22 AM
  #8  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
blackasscls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 368
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
oooo have not tried the metal case of deck to metal in car........could this be the missing link? I think i may try that tomorrow, I have to take it apart anyway because i forgot to hook up my antenna
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
spudweb
2G TL (1999-2003)
7
05-22-2016 02:39 PM
Pham Alvan
2G TL (1999-2003)
38
03-16-2016 09:17 AM
CL-S progression 01
Car Parts for Sale
65
01-26-2016 04:15 PM
Oakroadsteve
3G TL (2004-2008)
9
10-28-2015 10:28 PM
mars
1G TSX (2004-2008)
1
09-28-2015 11:03 AM



Quick Reply: Alternator Whine 2001 CLS



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:51 AM.