Almost done installing my new Pioneer Sub!!
#1
Burning Brakes
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Almost done installing my new Pioneer Sub!!
It wasn't a very difficult task, just very time consuming! I have to say that the Pioneer sub is a definite improvement over the stock sub! It doesn't give the same sound as a ported sub, but its very close to it!
I was able to fit the sub in the stock location by removing a metal bar that runs just underneath it. It was spot welded in 4 spots, so I simply drilled them out without any problems. I then had to enlarge stock hole so that I could fit the new 10" sub. I used a dremel with a metal bit. That took the most time because I wanted to be careful and neat with it! I made a new 9" diameter hole and fit the 10" perfectly. I used some 1/2" foam insulation between the sub and dash to help with vibrations. I used 14"x2" hex self tapping screws to bolt the sub down.
In order to the stock cover back on, I had to cut some of the interior plastic as well as remove the red lens for the stop light. Since I have a spoiler with the LED it didn't matter. You also can't tell that the red lens is missing because of my tint! So I was lucky with that!
All I really have left to do it just secure the sub a little bit more! Other than that it's done! I am happy with the new results!!
Ben, aka Carfreak, took pics so I will have him post them for me!
Thanks to all those that helped with all my technical questions!!
-Rich
I was able to fit the sub in the stock location by removing a metal bar that runs just underneath it. It was spot welded in 4 spots, so I simply drilled them out without any problems. I then had to enlarge stock hole so that I could fit the new 10" sub. I used a dremel with a metal bit. That took the most time because I wanted to be careful and neat with it! I made a new 9" diameter hole and fit the 10" perfectly. I used some 1/2" foam insulation between the sub and dash to help with vibrations. I used 14"x2" hex self tapping screws to bolt the sub down.
In order to the stock cover back on, I had to cut some of the interior plastic as well as remove the red lens for the stop light. Since I have a spoiler with the LED it didn't matter. You also can't tell that the red lens is missing because of my tint! So I was lucky with that!
All I really have left to do it just secure the sub a little bit more! Other than that it's done! I am happy with the new results!!
Ben, aka Carfreak, took pics so I will have him post them for me!
Thanks to all those that helped with all my technical questions!!
-Rich
#2
Burning Brakes
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#3
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so if I did this I woudl have to give up the 3rd LED. or modify it in some way?? Hmmmm my WW lip spoiler doesnt have an LED, so I would need to fab something I guess. Need to swing by and take a look.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Originally posted by Mr Hyde
so if I did this I woudl have to give up the 3rd LED. or modify it in some way?? Hmmmm my WW lip spoiler doesnt have an LED, so I would need to fab something I guess. Need to swing by and take a look.
so if I did this I woudl have to give up the 3rd LED. or modify it in some way?? Hmmmm my WW lip spoiler doesnt have an LED, so I would need to fab something I guess. Need to swing by and take a look.
If you install the OEM spoiler, you could use the 3rd brake light on the spoiler, and unwire the one that near the sub position.
Just my $0.02.
Cheers
#5
Burning Brakes
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Originally posted by Mr Hyde
so if I did this I woudl have to give up the 3rd LED. or modify it in some way?? Hmmmm my WW lip spoiler doesnt have an LED, so I would need to fab something I guess. Need to swing by and take a look.
so if I did this I woudl have to give up the 3rd LED. or modify it in some way?? Hmmmm my WW lip spoiler doesnt have an LED, so I would need to fab something I guess. Need to swing by and take a look.
#6
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by drcookie
Mr. Hyde, when you said 3rd LED, did you mean 3rd brake light ?
If you install the OEM spoiler, you could use the 3rd brake light on the spoiler, and unwire the one that near the sub position.
Just my $0.02.
Cheers
Mr. Hyde, when you said 3rd LED, did you mean 3rd brake light ?
If you install the OEM spoiler, you could use the 3rd brake light on the spoiler, and unwire the one that near the sub position.
Just my $0.02.
Cheers
Till then my Orion Amp is sitting unused for now.
#7
rmarin. that is quite impressive. Imagine if u never covered it and people see it all the time when they pass your car. they'd do a double take!! but of course, that would just be inviting a breakin. nonetheless, kudos!!
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#8
I'm also on a very similar situation. But i was wondering if i can use my new amp (sony xprs) with the stock sub, or the sub just won't take that much power. I really don't wanta lose that interior brake light at the back.
Kenneth
Kenneth
#9
hmm interesting but arent those metal bars that you took out meant to keep the rear frame stiffer? I'm not quite sure but did removing those bars change the way your car drives?
#10
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by oVerBoost
hmm interesting but arent those metal bars that you took out meant to keep the rear frame stiffer? I'm not quite sure but did removing those bars change the way your car drives?
hmm interesting but arent those metal bars that you took out meant to keep the rear frame stiffer? I'm not quite sure but did removing those bars change the way your car drives?
#11
Burning Brakes
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The bar that I removed has nothing to do with the frame of the car or the tension bars for the trunk. My theory is that metal brace is more to make the rear deck more rigid. It is a small piece of metal that has about 4 spot welds into the rear deck. It sits directly underneath the stock sub.
-Rich
-Rich
#12
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by rmarin2
The bar that I removed has nothing to do with the frame of the car or the tension bars for the trunk. My theory is that metal brace is more to make the rear deck more rigid. It is a small piece of metal that has about 4 spot welds into the rear deck. It sits directly underneath the stock sub.
-Rich
The bar that I removed has nothing to do with the frame of the car or the tension bars for the trunk. My theory is that metal brace is more to make the rear deck more rigid. It is a small piece of metal that has about 4 spot welds into the rear deck. It sits directly underneath the stock sub.
-Rich
#13
What's the model number of hte open air pioneer sub i can use in my acura again ? I've found TS-W254F on ebay for a pretty good price. Also with that metal bar removed, the truck door would still stay opened when it's opened right ?
Thanks all,
Kenneth
Thanks all,
Kenneth
#14
Actually i just realized that the stock sub in my 2001 TL is only 8". Any 8" free air sub out there you guys recommend ? I'm desperate. Have been running without a sub for like 3 weeks. now..
Thanks,
Kenneth
Thanks,
Kenneth
#18
Burning Brakes
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Originally posted by s1301950
What's the model number of hte open air pioneer sub i can use in my acura again ? I've found TS-W254F on ebay for a pretty good price. Also with that metal bar removed, the truck door would still stay opened when it's opened right ?
Thanks all,
Kenneth
What's the model number of hte open air pioneer sub i can use in my acura again ? I've found TS-W254F on ebay for a pretty good price. Also with that metal bar removed, the truck door would still stay opened when it's opened right ?
Thanks all,
Kenneth
-Rich
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