I got my alarm installed (Alpine 8028), but left in the factory alarm. Anybody done something similar?

As long as there is no conflict, I figure I would leave them both in. The only drawback is carrying two remotes.

--Teflon

 

My installer tied my Clifford alarm into the factory one. When I arm it, both systems arm and when I disarm it both system disarm. Two alarms--one remote. Sweeeet!!!

 

My Clifford works with its own remote but the factory alarm is still useable. If I lock door with key the factory alarm will be armed.
When I turn the key to unlock the door the factory alarm will disarm. Unless I have the Clifford in the Valet mode I never use factory alarm. I always use the Clifford remote to to disarm the alarm & I have it set to autolock/ arm in 90 seconds.

 

I have a Clifford Intelliguard 7000 installed. As you say, just leave both alarm in. If you sell your car in the future, you can always yank your Alpine out and let the new buyer know that your car comes with a factory alarm. Why carry 2 remotes? There's no need. I put away the factory remote in a safe place, and just use my Clifford remote. It's a lot less hassle and weight to carry around.

 

Pianoman, that's very interesting. Could you give some details on how's thats done? I didn't know you could combine a Clifford and the factory alarm together.

 

That makes sense Patrick. Might as well leave the factory alarm, so I can take out the aftermarket alarm when I sell.

When I park the car, it makes me think is this area a double alarm situation?

 

I'm not an installer so I couldn't begin to guess how the two are tied in. I have a Clifford Concept 100 with the remote start option. I only use the Clifford remote. When I press the arm/lock on the remote, the Clifford unit chirps to verify that it's armed and the doors lock. The Clifford LED flashes to indicate it is armed, and the factory LED on the door also flashes to indicate that it is armed. I know the factory alarm is armed because if I get my factory remote and press the lock button again, the factory alarm "beep" sounds to indicate it is armed (I can't do this with the Clifford remote because the lock/unlock button is a shared function--each press toggles it one way or the other). Also, if I put the Clifford in valet mode, bypassing the alarm completely, I can take the factory or Clifford remote and lock the car and still arm the factory alarm. If I open a zone (trunk/door/hood), the car horn sounds and the parking lights flash, as it would with just the factory alarm.

I do believe they disabled some of the outputs on the factory alarm, or they tied the factory triggers into the Clifford because when I set off a zone with the Clifford active (open a door for instance) only the Clifford siren sounds. Even with the remote start option installed, the factory immobilizer still works. If I try and start the car with a cut, non-chipped key, the car won't start.

I don't think it is necessary to have both alarms functioning. The Clifford does everything the factory alarm does and more, and it does it better. Having the chip immobilizer still active is kind of important. They may be able to keep that part active while disabling the rest of the factory alarm.

 

Pianoman, if you get a chance to talk to your installer, could you confirm with him that that is what he's done? I might be interested in doing something similar with my Clifford. Thanks

 

The alarm was installed by Tweeter, Etc. of Holyoke MA and their number is (413) 532-0400. I don't know the name of the specific installer that worked on my car (I dealt with Dave Gasparini, mobile dept manager--who has since left). But I know they have done a few TLs and CLs and they do a lot of Cliffords so someone there should be able to help you.

 

Adding an after-market alarm to the vehicle and having control over the factory alarm is quite simple.
The key is to make sure your installer connects the doorlock outputs on your new alarm to not only the lock/unlock wires at the factory lock switch, but also to the lock/unlock wires from the driver's door cylinder.
This will mimic the key being turned in the door cylinder which in fact does arm and disarm the factory security.

The connections are as follows:

Your units lock output connects to -
Black/white (at lock switch in door)
Blue/white (at driver's door key cylinder)

Your units unlock wires connects to -
Green/red (at lock switch in driver's door)
Blue/silver dots (at driver's door key cylinder)

The connections should be diode isolated which is something your installer should already know.

If you are wondering why I make reference to getting all the wires inside the door, it's because this car uses a multiplex control module in each door. This means that a majority of the wires in the door join at a module which converts the information into a digital signal which can all be transmitted through a single wire. This is done so less wires need to be run from the door to the inside of the vehicle.

I will soon be posting a complete electrical guide with pictures on this site. It's not only that I have a TL-S, but I do this for a living.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the info Fred. Very informative.