ChillRobP

iTrader: (1)

Hello,
I'm very interested in adding a Sub and an AMP to my TLS, but i'm afraid of the nasty rattling sound that comes with it.
Is there a way to add like a JL500/1 Amp with a JL 10w7 sub and not have any rattling and just the nice deep bass pounding?
Thanks!

-Rob

ResidualFreedom

The rattle comes from loose connection in your trunk, or your licence plate, or the rear tail lights, etc... there is a chance of getting a rattle, however the best way to deal with your question would be to install the sub and amp, and then determin where the rattle comes from. Any rattle noise can be removed from your car, but you have to install the system, and attack the rattle then. I am getting a 2000 3.2TL in 3 days and I have a 1200watt Amp and one 12in Sub that will push way over 140db when in competion. I assume I will get rattle when I crank up my system (I rattled off my rearview mirror in my last truck), I am not worried at all Acura makes quality cars and am sure it is better quality than a chev and I didn't have a problem controlling that rattle. If you have any more questions or comments please contact me through a message. I am intrested the hear how your install goes. Mine will be a customized fiberglass install mounting a Line Driver/Eq/Crossover, Capacitor, 4ch Amp for the doors, New 500watt monobloc amp (for replacement of stock 9" subwoofer), 1200watt Class-D amp (for main 12"sub) , Fuse Distrubution block, and a partridge in a pear tree! It will be a fun install. I reccomed to everyone buy one powerful sub instead of 2-4 subs. I am destroying people in competions with one sub, recently I beat an identical car with eight subs. Especially with the luxury stlye of the 3.2 don't ruin it with an offensive Audio setup.

-Keep it Loud-
Residual Freedom

ChillRobP

iTrader: (1)

I've read a lot of posts on the rattling and most use dynamat and other foaming products to prevent the rattle but they say it still rattles. I'm just wondering if there is a way to prevent the rattle all together. I mean, what do the audio installation experts know?

shawhite

if the car has not been preped then you are definately gonna have rattles... i have 1 12w6v2 in my truck and it rattled like crazy... now i treated the whole truck to a layer of cascade... and placed some foam in a couple of places... oh not to mention that i rubber coated the truck latch (that is one of the biggest rattles)... and most of the major rattles are gone i still have a couple little rattles that i am trying to track down.. but like ResidualFreedom said you will have to install your speaker then find the rattles...

ResidualFreedom

Your rattle will come from various reasons. Mainly from one piece of your car touching but not firmly attached to another piece. You will have to determin what method to use with each different rattle.
- It could be two body panels that clip together but have give between the two due to use - (eg. door panel and door, trunk panel and trunk, front and rear lights, Dash inserts,)
- It could be two panels that are not fastened together for competition audio (aftermarket) use. Up graded clips for doors, Rubber washers and stoppers (plugs), used between two pieces of metal.
- The foam and sound batting for the car gives it a clear, clean sound, and obviously is used to take up the space between the door panel and the door, trunk, celing, body panels.
- Clear silicone use around windows. Perfect for keeping rattles away from metal.Remove screws, put a bead of silicone, and replace the screws, perfect rubberlike seal between the metal, there will be no rattling any more. Use on the threaded end of the screws to prevent them from backing off with all the vibration.
- Another Suggstion is to place your Box on rubber stoppers to minmize the vibration transfered from your box to the car. ( that is what they use for generators and transformers in industrial applications ) essencially if you could have your box either suspended or sitting on springs (which is very possible I am reasearching now) you would have very very little vibration and a much cleaner sounding bass.


Once again I suggest installing the system and see what the sound is like, you may have to take the system out to get to all of the rattles so don't do a perminant/final install intil you are happy with your sound. I have probably moved my setup three of four times just based on sound quality. R

One last thing with your speaker setup remember 16ft. Bass sounds the best when it travels 16ft. That is why a sub in a truck sounds like crap to the same sub in a van facing backwards. It is science, there is tons of info behind it but I won't wast your time with it.


-Keep it Loud-


Residual Freedom

Ps. If anyone wants to find out how to get paid on people paying their bills, phone/cell/gas/ele./internet access contact me for more info.