I really need my trunk space, So i was think gettin a single sub box and bolt the amp on to the box. How are the Kicker comp Vr's. When I add the sub will the factory sub still work. I dont want to mess wit any of the factory wiring.

 

dnd2984:
Go get yourself a good 10" sub. No you won't want to use the stock sub...as the bass will be out of phase between your stock sub and the new one. The best idea is to unhook it...or remove it and fill the hole. Get a 500W amp and a JL 10w7.

Austin519

 

Mounting the amp to the box is a good idea as it will save alot in install $$$$. Make sure that you are satified with the box and that the amp you have chosen will actually mount to the side of the box. Some amps are pretty big.

I have a CL-S and the amp had to be custom installed. That cost me $400 but that is also because I have a small on/off toggle switch mounted behind the handbrake pull tab and a bass adjustment knob that was mounted by my cruise on/off switch.

Other alternative that some of the CL-Sers have done is added a Basslink. That wil alot cheaper than an amp/sub addition. And they seem to be pretty happy with the results. Total cost for that was around $350 (I think).

Mine cost me $1,400 total,,

my 2 cents

 

01SILVERCL-S:
$1400??? Dear lord...

Austin519

 

I have a brand new Eclipse Aluminum 12", for sale 270 shipped or best offer, if your interested

 

What's a Basslink?

 

If I get one sub it has to be INfiniti Kappa, Whats the main differ wit the 10 and 12 size kappa besides deeper bass.

The JL7 is to much for me That thing is a Beast.

The Basslink is a 10 inch sub wit box and built in amp and its just plug and play. It a 200 watt RMS sub.

What do u guys think of MTX 6000.

 

dnd2984:
"If I get one sub it has to be INfiniti Kappa, Whats the main differ wit the 10 and 12 size kappa besides deeper bass."

Well...keeping the Xmax the same (aka how far the cone moves forward and back) having a 12" cone means you have 113 square inches to push the air with, while a 10" means you have 78. That's a big difference there. And I assume you mean Kappa Perfect.

"The JL7 is to much for me That thing is a Beast. "

To each his own

"The Basslink is a 10 inch sub wit box and built in amp and its just plug and play. It a 200 watt RMS sub."

And a crappy one at that. I hope no one here has or buys one of those.

"What do u guys think of MTX 6000."

Do you really want to buy a crappy circuit city brand? I really wouldn't ever get MTX if I were you...nothing they make is good...and is just for the suckers who ask electronics places for stereo advice.

Austin519

 

Thanks for the help. I called circuit city for installtion they said its 200 dollars does that sound right? but since I am a senior in HS ill be saving for a while to get a system.
But I think I willl go wit the Infinity.
What do you guy also think of the Alpine Type S one 10.

 

dnd2984:
"Thanks for the help. I called circuit city for installtion they said its 200 dollars does that sound right? but since I am a senior in HS ill be saving for a while to get a system.
But I think I willl go wit the Infinity.
What do you guy also think of the Alpine Type S one 10."

JL and Infinity blow that away...just depends on how nice you want your stereo to be. Is your b'day in 2 days? And you'll be 17? Wow a real young-un with a TL...

And no $200 is way too much. Besides, you don't want to get Circuit City or Best Buy or crap places like them to install your system anyway. If you're just putting in a sub and amp you should do it yourself. It takes less than an hour, is extremely easy, will give you experience, and you can use the $200 for your system instead of paying some ghetto boy to plug a total of 6 wires in. I can tell you how if you need it.

Austin519

 

Thank you for the help again, I got the TL last year, and Turned 18 ten days ago. When I do it at home is there any complications witht he bose system. Are they directions in the FAQ section yet on how to do this. First the guy said installtion is 59.95 plus 40 bucks for some adapter and 100 bucks to run the red wire to the battery. Is there anyway I can go wrong when I do it at home.

 

dnd2984:
It's very easy to do. You'll run a power cable through the rubber grommet connecting your cabin to the engine bay...through the firewall (you'll probably have to cut a hole in the grommet). Pop off your trim and run it along there...but make sure you connect it to your battery last, so you don't ground it. You'll need a Hi-Lo converter...or LOC, to convert the high level bass signal at your rear sub amp to one usuable by your amp (assuming your amp doesn't have high level inputs). Then you just ground the amp somewhere that looks conductive (with jyang411 we did it with a screw right around the left rear seat belt harness at the top, wire the LOC to the amp, and you're done.

Austin519

 

Why install another component into the signal path? You don't need a LOC to get a signal to an aftermarket amp/sub. Extend the existing pre-amp sub signal directly from the HU to your new amp. The signal can be found in a light brown sheath behind the rear seat going to the stock Bose amp(It's in the same wiring bundle that contains the remote power-on wire). Cut into the sheath and you'll find a twisted pair. Extend that twisted pair with enough new twisted pair to reach your sub and solder a RCA connector to it to be plugged into your amp. Less is better.

 

Austin519 :

it adds up especially when one has 2 left hands like me..

Phoenix Gold Ti600 $550 (shipping included)
Kicker L7 250 ditto
Box for sub 80 ditto
Amp kit 60 ditto
Installation 400

1,340 total

But the amp and sub is really sweet and I love that I can adjust the sub from my seat.

 

01SILVERCL-S:
"Phoenix Gold Ti600 $550 (shipping included)
Kicker L7 250 ditto
Box for sub 80 ditto
Amp kit 60 ditto
Installation 400"

Yeah it's nice to be able to adjust it from the seat...that's how I ran my amps back in my Explorer...with the Rockford Fosgate Punch Bass. That's where your cost came in...the PG amp for +200, L7 for +120, and of course the installation . Man I wish you lived near me...I'd hook you up cheaper. But cost doesn't matter once you're bumping along And that's a nice amp!

Austin519

 

OK now what all the supplies I will need to do it at home. Do i need some kind of adapter casue I am using the factory unit. And to get a single to my new sub I just slice into the brown wire, Austin can you get me some simple easy to use details on Installation. Right now you guys are the GODS.

 

dnd2984:
What brewboy said is quite true. I forgot you were installing just the subs. If you want to later go with new components I'd go my way...otherwise stick with his. You'll need:

- 15 ft red 4 ga power cable
- 5 ft black 4 ga power cable
- 1 set of 8 ga speaker wires per sub
- 15 ft 15 ga wire
- 2 >10mm eyelets
- 2 wire taps
- small sharp knife
- soapy water
- 1 piece 60 grit sandpaper
- 1 60A fuse and inline fuse holder (accepts 4 ga power cable)

You'll just put an eyelet on the 5 ft cable, and the 15 ft cable. Cut a hole in the grommet found on the driver's side of the car, close to a foot down. Use the knife to cut a small hole in the grommet, then lubricate it with soapy water and push the 15 ft cable through non-eyelet end first. Pop off the trim and kickpanels and run it back to the rear of the car, covering it up with the trim. Remove the rear seat and run the wire behind the rear seat. Connect the ground cable by the eyelet to any screw that goes into the chassis, making sure to sand any paint underneath the screw completely off for a good connection. Connect both of these to your amp. Use wire taps (do not cut!) to tap the twisted pair of wires going to the stock sub in the brown sheath and cut 2 5 ft sections to use for this purpose. Also tap the remote turn on wire (the blue wire) using the 15 ga wire and the last 5 ft of the 15 ga cable and wire that into your amp. Lastly, wire in your subs, then connect the eyelet for the + power cable to your battery.

If you want to be careful...which I suggest you do, then before you connect the + cable to the battery...cut the cable and install the fuse holder inline, about a foot from the end of the cable. Then connect the power cable to the battery...and you're done!

Austin519

 

Austin--

"easy"????? haha.. my @$$!!!

 

Come on Austin, your not doing your homework. You also do not need a LOC anywhere in the TL to install the front stage nor front stage/rear fill. Unless you want to go balls out with an Audiocontrol or Navone BLD and amp to match, you don't need to spend the extra $'s on a LOC. Also by not using a LOC, you should bypass the EQ which is a good thing as MS says. Less is better.

 

Brewboy:
We are talking about the little guy yes? Yes...for all intents and purposes you can splice the first set of wires out of the HU and remove the EQ altogether...I do know that.

But for the little guy, who doesn't know how to do that, or how to even take his dash apart...it may very well be easier to use a LOC. I was trying to give dnd2984 the least amount of work...which you will admit that is.

Austin519

 

OK I am pretty lost once again, Austin I dont need the 4 gauge my amp will require the 8 gauge. Ok now what about the EQ? I dont need to take my dash apart do I. By the way what is LOC.
Thanx