CL: 6.5 comps
For the sub would u have gotten the 1508 single coil or 1510 dual coil. The dealer told me they are the same but the 1510 will get a lil more excursion. And at 2 ohms i should be able to run it 100w higher if i want to.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 11
From: Mooresville NC
Well yes kinda but you can get better if you go with a 10. But you im sure would be happy with other the 8 or 10. Also you will need to get a custom box built at a costs of 100-200 from someone please dont buy a prefab box from the store. You will get way more and better sound from a custom built one.
Well yes kinda but you can get better if you go with a 10. But you im sure would be happy with other the 8 or 10. Also you will need to get a custom box built at a costs of 100-200 from someone please dont buy a prefab box from the store. You will get way more and better sound from a custom built one.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 45
From: Bronx, NY
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Fi makes great subs and would be a great choice. Their engineer used to build the subs for a company I used to work for. He was great at building them to be very tough and reliable.
For another option, you should check out the offerings at DIY Cable. Their subs utilize a patented motor topology which greatly reduces distortion in subs. Check out the Shiva-X2 or Tempest-X2. Here's the link: http://www.diycable.com/main/default...1c9b754e34ca1e
For another option, you should check out the offerings at DIY Cable. Their subs utilize a patented motor topology which greatly reduces distortion in subs. Check out the Shiva-X2 or Tempest-X2. Here's the link: http://www.diycable.com/main/default...1c9b754e34ca1e
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 11
From: Mooresville NC
D2 and D4 is just for wiring configurations. If you want to run it at 2 ohm either will work. If you want to run at 1 ohm you need to get the d2. But be sure your amp is 1 ohm stable, not sure if it is or not. Later down the road if you want to get another matching sub and have u get the d4's and that will give you a final load of 1 ohm or 4 ohm, whichever way you wire it.
D2 and D4 is just for wiring configurations. If you want to run it at 2 ohm either will work. If you want to run at 1 ohm you need to get the d2. But be sure your amp is 1 ohm stable, not sure if it is or not. Later down the road if you want to get another matching sub and have u get the d4's and that will give you a final load of 1 ohm or 4 ohm, whichever way you wire it.
Anyone who knows the subs i listed in my last recent posts alot wanna do a best to worst for me pls. From these subs if-q dual 2 $234, IDQ10v2 $159, IDQ10V3 $239.99, or RE SE 10 $129.99, JL 10w3v3 $149.99, jl 10w6v2 $270.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Then you will have to know the power output of your amp at 2 and 4 ohms and choose a sub that matches that output at that impedance. If it produces the right power at 4 ohms, then you will want the D2. if it produces the right power at 2 ohms, then you want the D4.
I noticed you had a DD sub in your previous list. They generally aren't known for their sound quality.
And don't discount the subs I listed in my last post. The Shiva-X will have better SQ and similar output capabilities as any of the subs you list.
I noticed you had a DD sub in your previous list. They generally aren't known for their sound quality.
And don't discount the subs I listed in my last post. The Shiva-X will have better SQ and similar output capabilities as any of the subs you list.
Last edited by Steven Kephart; Nov 26, 2009 at 12:01 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
If only some of you could hear my W6s in a bandpass designed by JL and a board member for the TL and the W6, you would never have to wonder what sub to get. It's the most detailed, clean, punchy, and deep rich bass I've ever experienced. Plus it's very, very efficient, very little power required for good SPL and excursion is almost non-existant at high volumes. On top of that, it takes care of any rattle problems since it's ported through the armrest and there's no bass in the trunk or under the decklid. I know some of that is in the design, not the sub itself.
With that said, I would look elsewhere than JL for the comps. They're nice but I think there's better for the money. I tried the ID CTX65 comps thinking I would eventually upgrade to something more expensive but these things blow anything in the price range and several price ranges up away. I would give these a serious look.
With that said, I would look elsewhere than JL for the comps. They're nice but I think there's better for the money. I tried the ID CTX65 comps thinking I would eventually upgrade to something more expensive but these things blow anything in the price range and several price ranges up away. I would give these a serious look.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 45
From: Bronx, NY
If only some of you could hear my W6s in a bandpass designed by JL and a board member for the TL and the W6, you would never have to wonder what sub to get. It's the most detailed, clean, punchy, and deep rich bass I've ever experienced. Plus it's very, very efficient, very little power required for good SPL and excursion is almost non-existant at high volumes. On top of that, it takes care of any rattle problems since it's ported through the armrest and there's no bass in the trunk or under the decklid. I know some of that is in the design, not the sub itself.
With that said, I would look elsewhere than JL for the comps. They're nice but I think there's better for the money. I tried the ID CTX65 comps thinking I would eventually upgrade to something more expensive but these things blow anything in the price range and several price ranges up away. I would give these a serious look.
With that said, I would look elsewhere than JL for the comps. They're nice but I think there's better for the money. I tried the ID CTX65 comps thinking I would eventually upgrade to something more expensive but these things blow anything in the price range and several price ranges up away. I would give these a serious look.
Then you will have to know the power output of your amp at 2 and 4 ohms and choose a sub that matches that output at that impedance. If it produces the right power at 4 ohms, then you will want the D2. if it produces the right power at 2 ohms, then you want the D4.
I noticed you had a DD sub in your previous list. They generally aren't known for their sound quality.
And don't discount the subs I listed in my last post. The Shiva-X will have better SQ and similar output capabilities as any of the subs you list.
I noticed you had a DD sub in your previous list. They generally aren't known for their sound quality.
And don't discount the subs I listed in my last post. The Shiva-X will have better SQ and similar output capabilities as any of the subs you list.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 11
From: Mooresville NC
If only some of you could hear my W6s in a bandpass designed by JL and a board member for the TL and the W6, you would never have to wonder what sub to get. It's the most detailed, clean, punchy, and deep rich bass I've ever experienced. Plus it's very, very efficient, very little power required for good SPL and excursion is almost non-existant at high volumes. On top of that, it takes care of any rattle problems since it's ported through the armrest and there's no bass in the trunk or under the decklid. I know some of that is in the design, not the sub itself.
With that said, I would look elsewhere than JL for the comps. They're nice but I think there's better for the money. I tried the ID CTX65 comps thinking I would eventually upgrade to something more expensive but these things blow anything in the price range and several price ranges up away. I would give these a serious look.
With that said, I would look elsewhere than JL for the comps. They're nice but I think there's better for the money. I tried the ID CTX65 comps thinking I would eventually upgrade to something more expensive but these things blow anything in the price range and several price ranges up away. I would give these a serious look.
If u could only heat my NS lol sorry I had to say that. They are nice but out of his price range. And yea X2 on the 8";s in the doors thats what im doin well for mids that is.