xTheWarrior

iTrader: (1)

I took my subwoofers out about 2 months ago beacuse the sound of them from the outside was just horrible. Ive been missing them and was wanting to know if Dynamat would help my problem. I was just going to do the whole trunk. So any 2G'rs with Dynamat that can tell me that it is worth it?

Steven Kephart

I'd recommend Second Skin sound damping material over Dynamat. It is thicker, sticks much better, and is usually less expensive. Depending on the subwoofer system you have, you may not be able to get rid of all the rattles completely. However it will make a considerable difference.

One of the loudest rattles is usually the license plate. So start by coating the back of it with material.

mattastick

x2 Steven. Second Skin Audio has much better products than Dynamat. Their website is www.secondskinaudio.com

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I used dynamat back in the day, but there are better products around

xTheWarrior

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks for the replies. Im gonna look into the second skin now. Does anyone know how much i will need for my 03 TL?

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

depends how much dampening you're looking to do, just the trunk, doors, etc

myisanog

i like dynamat . works great for me . barely any rattling (nothing like the black peoples car where all you here is the trunk rattling). i just have to stick a chopstick in my sunroof because it rattles too much up there .. not a 2g btw

xTheWarrior

iTrader: (1)

i just wanna do the trunk. So do you know how much i'll need for my 03 TL?

Sun1914

iTrader: (1)

"nothing like black peoples car"
What the f$*k is that suppose to me? Person's color has nothing to do with a rattling truck. I'm offended.

Somebody needs the talk to that kid...that was some stupid shit to say.

Jerzyboi

that really is racist..

mrchan625

iTrader: (3)

whoa at that comment...x2 on it not having to do with the person's race..

88ChevyBlazer

That was not racist.....

Racist would have been something along the lines of "Nothing like them dang n¡gger cars" or "Nothing like those fvckin' spook cars" where all you can hear is the trunk rattling.

People are too dang sensitive these days...........

And to the OP, Second Skin is the only way to go.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

They sell "trunk kits"

Let't try to keep things civil guys, I don't think he meant to offend anyone

dudeinaTL

iTrader: (1)

Expanding foam, Dynamat (technically called a sound deadener), & even box placement will help. Sound deadener adds mass which lowers a certain material's resonance point. It helps to keep the sound "inside" the car vs. wasting energy vibrating the car. You get rid of rattles & your audio will sound a LOT cleaner/crisp, even with the same amount of power thrown at it.

xTheWarrior

iTrader: (1)

Well a shops gonna do it for me and they keep telling me to go with dynamat and i mentioned secondskin and they said theyve never heard of it and said dynamat is best in the business and most custom/audio shops perfer dynamat. but i think ill go with the second skin anyway.

Steven Kephart

If it helps I work at a custom/audio shop and have used Dynamat in the past on my vehicles. We have since moved on to Second Skin and feel it is the superior product. Try searching on Second Skins web site for a dealer near you.

dudeinaTL

iTrader: (1)

I'd put money on them not even knowing other brands of sound deadener. Dynamat is all they know, so of course it's "the best". Bet they've never heard of eDead or Fatmat either, both great "alternatives" that I've personally used.

mattastick

Both may be "great alternatives" but neither will hold a candle to Second Skin's Damplifier Pro...

But you are right about them not knowing any other brands than Dynamat. Although I did see Fatmat at a shop's grand opening this weekend...

dudeinaTL

iTrader: (1)

Never used Second Skin but it does get much praise (on the Internet, that is). It's been years since I've even did anything to my car audio-wise, but back in the day, I was all over the place trying to get the perfect sound. And a lot of that has to deal with getting rid of noise. Sound deadening is very important in that aspect.

thinhthan

so should i use dampifier pro or lite?

mattastick

Damplifier Pro is the best on the market. If you can afford it, buy Damplifier Pro. If you can't save up money until you can...

xTheWarrior

iTrader: (1)

Well will dynamat get the job done for 2 12" subs with a 1000 watt amp?

mattastick

There are a lot of factors that determine how much deadener you'll need. Box, driver, and port placement being the least of which. That being said, I will not spend money on any other deadener besides Second Skin or possibly Cascade. Those are the only 2 brands I will run, so those are the only 2 brands I will recommend.

That being said, could you get away with dynamat, probably. But I wouldn't do it...

thinhthan

i have 1 12" JL W7 and my trunk rattles alot

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Nersh7

How is the one Dub 7 working with the mono 500? any issues?

99wdptl

Peel & Seal all the way, yes you have to put on two layers to get the same results as Dynamat xtreme but one layer of this stuff is just as good as regular Dynamat. It is easy as hell to put on (easier to work with compared to Dynamat IMO) has no smell during or after the installation process and at $16 a roll (6"x25') it is way cheaper

mattastick

Wait a couple years and when it's coming off, then come back and say how much better it is... There's a reason it's so cheap. The aluminum is stupid thin (that's why it's easier to work with) which reduces it's ability to actually deaden your panels (thicker aluminum is stiffer, which helps to eliminate panel flex and rattling). The backing is also asphalt based, which will lose it's adhesion properties if it gets heated up. If that stuff survives a summer, I'll be surprised...

99wdptl

All good and true about it being thinner than Dynomat, which is why i said 2 layers will produce the same results. As far a retaining its adhesiveness to the car you need to realize that this stuff is made for roofing so heat will not affect it.
I have had it for close to three years now no issues, given the Summer heat here in VA rarely breaks 105 but it still holds strong and i have no rattles. Not to say my system is weak the last time i had it tested it was at 145db...
Typically you are correct, you get what you pay for. But when you produce a specialty produce that has a main stream market share as large as Dynomat does they can pretty much charge w/e they want b/c they know you will buy it. There will always be a cheaper alternative that will produce similar results, the problem is most aren't willing to venture out there and find it. Just thought i would shed some light on what i found for 1/2 the cost and works the same.....

mattastick

You've gotten lucky then, because normally the asphalt based deadeners will loose adhesion after a few heat cycles, due to the design of the backing.

Please read this thread: http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...ad.php?t=19641

99wdptl

Trust me i know, i tried it on a test basis on an old truck we had, i wanted to make sure that this stuff would hold and what i think the difference with Peel & Seal is that it's more of a water proofing material than anything else. Most roofing materials are used to deflect heat from the roof .i.e. aluminum backing to save the roof from burning up, but this stuff is made to seal out water. So if its tested to make water tight seals on a roof around HVAC ductwork, windows, and so on why won't it work/stick in a car? Given you have to CLEAN the surface before you apply it but the same goes for anything.

mattastick

You're obviously not getting it, so I'm just going to quit arguing with you about it. Go buy yourself some Damplifier Pro and come back and tell me how impressed you are with it. Until then, I'm done with this. Damplifier Pro is hands down better. It's been proven several times over, especially in competition cars where you're only allowed to have 2 layers of deadener...

99wdptl

I get your point and by no means did i think i was arguing with you if it came across that way i am sorry, I posed a cost effective solution to sound deadener and you had questions about its ability to hold its adhesiveness and i answered them that was all.
Never did i say it was better than anything i am sure that Damplifier Pro is the best b/c it was designed for competitive car audio, but not everyone want to shell out $300 for sound deadener, but we still don't want to ride around with that god awful trunk rattle.
So could i have spent the $300 for Damplifier yes, but i dont compete in car audio so the justification for that price was not there, so i saved $236 and with that bought a very nice set of Orion component speakers for the car.
But obviously you are very serious about your competitive car audio and you know what the best of the best is so next time i have a question about anything audio related i know who to come to, again if i offended you or pissed you off in anyway that was not my intention, i was just trying to highlight a cheaper solution to a common problem..

mattastick

I'll respond with this simple statement: If you're going to do something, do it right...

99wdptl

Your right, i did it wrong b/c i didn't drop $300 on competition rated deadner for a car i never plan on putting into a competition..... Given it accomplished what i wanted it to (eliminate trunk rattle) but i still did it wrong... Thank you for showing me the error in my ways....

mattastick

I didn't spend $300 on deadener either. I got my door pack in a giveaway, which would cost $65. That's all the deadener I have in my car right now. And I have very few rattles, one of which being the sunroof, and the other being my alarm remote's antenna against the rear view mirror (which is stopped by my old NRA Membership card).

Sure, you can accomplish the exact same thing I have, but it'll take you a ton more work using an inferior product. I have 1 layer of deadener on each door, that's it. For you to get the same gain from deadening just the doors, you would need at least 3 layers of your Peal and Seal, whereas my Second Skin only took 1 layer. Like I said, I have 1 layer which is a grand total of 12 sq ft of deadener in the car... That's it. And no rattles.

99wdptl

Free is always better , no you do make a good point and it will be a option to explore for the next car, plan on selling the 2g after graduation and upgrading to a 3/4g

So what type of set up are you running? Sounds like your making some good power, do you just have the doors done or did you do the trunk as well?

mattastick

I have a build log on here... My setup is 2 10" AA Chaos D2's wired at .5 ohms with power from a Sundown 1500D in a 4th order firing forward in the trunk. Hu setup has changed 3 times in the past like 2 months, and it may be changing again, since I have to send in my current Kenwood since it's going into protect (yeah, what hu goes into protect?!?!) but I've had an Alpine 9884, Pioneer 6900ub and 5100ub, and now my Kenwood 638mp. I sold the 9884, the 6900 died (with good voltage going into it, again confused as hell here), the 5100 is going in my sister's car, and now my 638mp is protecting. I'm running Bravox EXS6 mids powered by an RF P450.4 and crossed over by an Arc IDX. I have some OS Kicker Resolution tweets to put in, but I need to come up with a mounting system before I do it, since I don't think I have the brackets that they're supposed to use to mount them... It's built to bassrace 29.9 which I'm still dialing in, but I've only run it a couple times since changing the hu's.

As for deadener, there's just the doors done. My box is sealed off from the trunk, so no need to deaden it...

99wdptl

Very nice, how do you like that box i have always liked them but didn't want to sacrifice my whole trunk for it... I have never competed in a bass race how do you like it? The comps we would do back in the day (DB drag i think) where based on the wattage of you amp and the number of subs you had and that defined the classes. We would always piss everyone off b/c we had an OS Orion HCCA 50 watt amp and 1 12inch Orion H2 that pushed out 135db on a bad day and the goal of this comp is it hit the highest db for you class not staying in between a range like bass race. Good times..... Not susprised to hear the Pioneer HU took a crap on you they never seem to hold up for me either, the Alpine i have never really played with, i love Kenwood HU's never really put one in protect mode but i did catch one on fire.... Long story.

mattastick

I love bassrace. It's a ton of fun around here because we have anywhere from 4 to 8 guys that can do 29.9's every time (although I've been struggling as of late) which makes every competition a very interesting one. That and you don't have to invest huge amounts of money to be good. Just get a simple system and learn how it plays a given song, then go out and have fun. Just be sure to have plenty of battery backup (another thing I'm lacking right now) and be able to do a perfect number from outside the car, whether it's via remote or an external hu (like my Kenwood that's giving me trouble).

Amp's power rating was probably USACi, since they're still based on the 4 ohm ratings of an amp. That being said, certain amps get under rated on purpose just for USACi. Amps like the AQ Beast (or whatever they want to call it) which is rated at 1000w at .0002% THD on 12v for USACi's 1kw class, yet it has 3 power and ground inputs and 6 transformers... If it does less than 12kws at 1 ohm I'll be very disappointed. But knowing DJ and having spoken with him first hand, I'd say the thing will do more in the range of 14-15kws at 1 ohm at 14v. Even more if you've got the electrical to support it at .5 ohms. Let alone if you up the voltage to 18v, where DJ said you should get 20kws out of the thing...