I'm installing a JL 250/1 amp and JL 10w3 sub in my 99 3.0CL - with the stock Bose system. I have a couple questions...

1. Should i add a Rockford Fosgate capacitor (.5 Farad, 20volt - CPC05). Is it necessary?

2. Is it true that the JL 250/1 mono amp doesn't require a remote lead wire to be connected to the HU? Would the signal sensing turn-on function still work if i added a capacitor?

Thanks...

 

1. I cant answer this because I dont know the 1st gen specs and what kind of aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment you have in your car. If you dont have anything, I really doubt you would need a cap.

2. Adding a cap has nothing to do with "signal sensing" power on.

 

Yea i have nothing else hooked up to the battery. I may add a couple neons to accent the sub in the trunk. Do you think adding the cap would be a safe bet so i dont ruin the alternator? or a waste of 70 bucks?

One more thing quick - since the JL 250/1 amp doesnt need a remote lead - and i can hook up the RCA's to a back speaker wire via a line converter .. do i need to remove and connect anything to the HU? I don't think I'll need to - but am i missing anything?

Thanks again...

 

You can always install the 250/1 (and sub) then crank it up with all your electrical/electronic stuff turned on (including headlights and AC, dont forget interior lights). If your lights dimmed everytime a bass note hits then you will need a cap. Otherwise, you are fine.

I think "signal sensing" would work with line-out converter.
I tried it but didn't like the way it worked on my old 250/1 so I didn't use it then and don't use it now on my 500/1.

 

I have a 500/1 and a 10W7 and my lights don't dim at all!!!!!!

 

SilverKnight -

What didnt you like about the line converter? Did it affect the sound / power output of the bass?

What did you do instead? Just run the RCA's straight to the HU?

 

if u got 70 to waste on the cap then do it.... might as well spend 100 and get the full farad rockford cap. who knows maybe if u add a second amp or already have one. if u gonna buy the cap get a full farad.

 

Ummm ... I meant I didn't like the "signal sensing" power-on. Anyway, I have an aftermarket screen and the stock HU. For the stock HU, the outputs are at line level so just solder a pair of RCA cables to the HU's output, you don't need a converter (at least for the 2nd Gen, I cannot speak for the 1st Gen though).

 

We have the same setup and my lights dim especially on songs with a lot of bass. weird.....

I don't think that you would need to get a cap, but if you decide to, to be on the safe side, I would just go with a 1 farad.

 

So if you didnt like the "signal sensing" power-on on the amp - what did you do.. just run the remote lead wire to the HU? Did the signal-sensing power-on not work or something? (I've never used a JL amp).

About the rca's - i was going to use the line converter in the trunk - just off the back speaker wire to send the signal to the amp - would that work?

thanks..

 

Cuz you have a 2nd Gen CL :P

I dont think the 1st Gen CL's alternator puts out as much current.

 

The signal sensing power-on works but I don't like the idea of the amp turn-on and off itself so many time so I use ignition wire so my amps are on whenever the car is on or key turned to ACC (not recommended if you have one head unit, I have 2).

 

SilverKnight:
If memory serves...the first gen CL is putting out 20A less than the second gen. He should still be able to get by fine though.

Austin519

 

thanks for the info - i'll install the sub in about 2 weeks when i get everything...

 

Alot of people miss the point of using a cap. Not only does it help electrically, but it also makes the bass sound and hit better. If you use one in a total aftermarket system it makes the whole thing sound better.

 

black bullet:
Actually I disagree with you...I think you may not see the point (no offense). A capacitor functions in an electrical system to dampen out transients. If you have a large bass system (note, bass system), the amplifiers will draw large quantities of power intermittently...and so will cause dips in the voltage as a result of the power system not being able to supply all the current the amp wants. Batteries do not discharge fast enough because they rely on chemical reactions...but a capacitor relies on electric fields and so can provide small bursts of current, while charging up between beats for the next.

Now I said large bass systems because small bass systems would not cause such turbulence in the power system because they wouldn't draw enough current to drop the voltage. Similarly I say bass systems because mid/high frequency systems don't draw current intermittently like a bass beat would, and so also won't cause dips, just constant drain.

With both of those things said...there are only two main power related things your amps can do in a bass system situation. They can either be on and ok, or they can cut off when the voltage drops. If your electrical system can successfully power an amplifier all the time, addition of a capacitor won't do a thing for them, even if your lights dim. Capacitors don't change sound quality or anything else. However, if your amps cut on and off, or if your lights dim and you don't like that (and you KNOW your electrical system puts out enough constant power to power everything) then a capacitor would be useful.

But what a capacitor does NOT do is make bass sound or hit better.

Austin519

 

Unless it was just some fluke that it helped in both of my cars. I had a markviii with a full system. First without the cap and then with it, and it made a difference. Same thing go's for my cl now even though i have only added a sub. I can't prove it technically like you did so well, so I guess it's just a matter of hearing.

 

It made a difference because your amp is now provided with enough juice for it to complete the bass notes unlike w/o the cap, the bass note flatted out cuz your amp is not provided with enough juice :P

 

black bullet:
Yeah...it's quite possible it will help...just not always...exactly what Silver Knight said. If you can imagine a sine wave of bass...your amps may cut off close to the peak of the wave where it requires the most power...so you get a flat response...then continues when it comes back down. A cap will help this problem...but not all systems have this problem...most small/medium ones don't.

Austin519