Question
06-10-2018, 04:51 PM
#1
Question
So yesterday I got the P0740 code. I noticed it when driving both the cel and the Tcs light came on. I drove to work everything was shifting normal from what I can tell. No slipping or loss of gear. So I don’t think it’s completely cooked. I cleared the code to see if it would come back. Code stayed off the rest of the night and then came back around noon this morning. But it was after driving the car 5 or 6 times. Should I just clean the solenoids and change the fluid? See what happens
06-10-2018, 05:43 PM
#3
the fluid is getting dark. I changed it at 195k and now has 266k on it. I’m not sure what has been done to the trans before that. Neither do I know whether it’s been rebuilt or replaced
06-10-2018, 05:56 PM
#5
Drifting
1. Replace the torque converter solenoid.
1. Replace the external trans filter.
1. Replace 100% the atf with Valvoline Max Life full synthetic. Do not use Honda DW1. The trans capacity is around 7.5 quarts.
1. Do the stop n go when purging the DW1.
2. Keep the mileage to a minimum until you've completed #1.
Be sure to check the ATF fluid level according to the owners manual.
1. Replace the external trans filter.
1. Replace 100% the atf with Valvoline Max Life full synthetic. Do not use Honda DW1. The trans capacity is around 7.5 quarts.
1. Do the stop n go when purging the DW1.
2. Keep the mileage to a minimum until you've completed #1.
Be sure to check the ATF fluid level according to the owners manual.
Last edited by 01acls; 06-10-2018 at 06:00 PM.
06-10-2018, 06:02 PM
#6
1. Replace the torque converter solenoid.
1. Replace the external trans filter.
1. Replace 100% the atf with Valvoline Max Life full synthetic. Do not use Honda DW1. The trans capacity is around 7.5 quarts.
1. Do the stop n go when purging the DW1.
2. Keep the mileage to a minimum until you've completed #1.
Be sure to check the ATF fluid level according to the owners manual.
1. Replace the external trans filter.
1. Replace 100% the atf with Valvoline Max Life full synthetic. Do not use Honda DW1. The trans capacity is around 7.5 quarts.
1. Do the stop n go when purging the DW1.
2. Keep the mileage to a minimum until you've completed #1.
Be sure to check the ATF fluid level according to the owners manual.
06-10-2018, 06:11 PM
#7
Drifting
No, stop n go as in the following.
0. Drain n fill with new ATF.
1. When the car is fully warm select manually 1 gear.
2. Do the stop n go literally leaving it in first gear. Accelerate as fast as you can without spinning the wheels. Short distances maybe 30 yards or so but do over rev the motor. Keep it brisket. It is important that you drain the ATF when it's still warm to hot. The warmer the better.
3. Do number #2 for ten minutes.
4. Repeat #0.
5. Repeat #1-3.
Do the above untill you've changed 100% of the ATF (the closer the better). Not 3x3, maybe 4x3 at a minimum.
0. Drain n fill with new ATF.
1. When the car is fully warm select manually 1 gear.
2. Do the stop n go literally leaving it in first gear. Accelerate as fast as you can without spinning the wheels. Short distances maybe 30 yards or so but do over rev the motor. Keep it brisket. It is important that you drain the ATF when it's still warm to hot. The warmer the better.
3. Do number #2 for ten minutes.
4. Repeat #0.
5. Repeat #1-3.
Do the above untill you've changed 100% of the ATF (the closer the better). Not 3x3, maybe 4x3 at a minimum.
Last edited by 01acls; 06-10-2018 at 06:21 PM.
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06-10-2018, 07:39 PM
#8
Drifting
#2 above... No need to rev the motor. What's important is to come to a complete dead stop and then accelerate from a dead stop. That is the key to the stop n go. Accelerate briskly for 20/30 yards... Repeat n rinse for 10 minutes.
Note: Do the 100% atf exchange as one long continuous job (1 day), not in multiple days.
Note: Do the 100% atf exchange as one long continuous job (1 day), not in multiple days.
Last edited by 01acls; 06-10-2018 at 07:41 PM.
06-11-2018, 01:32 AM
#10
Drifting
Yes, I meant to shift into manual mode 1st gear and leave it in manual mode 1st gear. That is because I don't want the trans to shift into 2nd gear as the speed picks up. Once momentum builds the torque converter no longer is working at maximum capacity. Meaning the turbines in the torque converter are all spinning in the same direction.
When the torque converter starts from idle it has to generate an enormous amount of torque to move a vehicle from dead stop. The only way for a torque converter to generate that huge amount of torque in that small amount of space is for part of the torque converter turbines to rotate backwards. By doing so it is creating a lot of turbulence and running a large amount of ATF through the torque converter.
Since 02tl-p is having a torque converter flow problem I am taking advantage of the washing machine effect (turbulence) of the torque converter at start up to purge the torque converter of as much sediments as possible. Hence the 100% ATF exchange for better cleaning of the torque converter and transmission.
Likewise, Max Life viscosity is lower than DW1. Meaning Max flows better than DW1. Hence, my recommending Max over DW1.
When the torque converter starts from idle it has to generate an enormous amount of torque to move a vehicle from dead stop. The only way for a torque converter to generate that huge amount of torque in that small amount of space is for part of the torque converter turbines to rotate backwards. By doing so it is creating a lot of turbulence and running a large amount of ATF through the torque converter.
Since 02tl-p is having a torque converter flow problem I am taking advantage of the washing machine effect (turbulence) of the torque converter at start up to purge the torque converter of as much sediments as possible. Hence the 100% ATF exchange for better cleaning of the torque converter and transmission.
Likewise, Max Life viscosity is lower than DW1. Meaning Max flows better than DW1. Hence, my recommending Max over DW1.
Last edited by 01acls; 06-11-2018 at 01:45 AM.
06-11-2018, 05:38 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
OP, Do a search on this site for P0740
Unfortunately 99.9% of the time the TQ Solenoid is fine..
P0740 is like doomsday clock ticking and it almost always means trans failure about to happen.... Now why you ask?
When the trans it's on its final legs, the clutch packs start to deteriorate and leave huge amount of debris into the trans. The first to clog will in almost all cases be the TQ solenoid switch which is gonna throw a code. You can confirm this by checking your ATF as clutch material will darken your ATF a lot..
Replacing your ATF should give you a little time since you are removing the debris that is in the system but as the clutches further deteriorate, the solenoids will clog again and make your trans useless or the clutch pack will refuse to hold gear but in either case the trans is always dead.
Unfortunately 99.9% of the time the TQ Solenoid is fine..
P0740 is like doomsday clock ticking and it almost always means trans failure about to happen.... Now why you ask?
When the trans it's on its final legs, the clutch packs start to deteriorate and leave huge amount of debris into the trans. The first to clog will in almost all cases be the TQ solenoid switch which is gonna throw a code. You can confirm this by checking your ATF as clutch material will darken your ATF a lot..
Replacing your ATF should give you a little time since you are removing the debris that is in the system but as the clutches further deteriorate, the solenoids will clog again and make your trans useless or the clutch pack will refuse to hold gear but in either case the trans is always dead.
Last edited by Iggy; 06-11-2018 at 05:40 AM.
06-11-2018, 09:25 AM
#12
OP, Do a search on this site for P0740
Unfortunately 99.9% of the time the TQ Solenoid is fine..
P0740 is like doomsday clock ticking and it almost always means trans failure about to happen.... Now why you ask?
When the trans it's on its final legs, the clutch packs start to deteriorate and leave huge amount of debris into the trans. The first to clog will in almost all cases be the TQ solenoid switch which is gonna throw a code. You can confirm this by checking your ATF as clutch material will darken your ATF a lot..
Replacing your ATF should give you a little time since you are removing the debris that is in the system but as the clutches further deteriorate, the solenoids will clog again and make your trans useless or the clutch pack will refuse to hold gear but in either case the trans is always dead.
Unfortunately 99.9% of the time the TQ Solenoid is fine..
P0740 is like doomsday clock ticking and it almost always means trans failure about to happen.... Now why you ask?
When the trans it's on its final legs, the clutch packs start to deteriorate and leave huge amount of debris into the trans. The first to clog will in almost all cases be the TQ solenoid switch which is gonna throw a code. You can confirm this by checking your ATF as clutch material will darken your ATF a lot..
Replacing your ATF should give you a little time since you are removing the debris that is in the system but as the clutches further deteriorate, the solenoids will clog again and make your trans useless or the clutch pack will refuse to hold gear but in either case the trans is always dead.
06-11-2018, 10:15 AM
#13
Three Wheelin'
Sounds good. I hope I'm wrong but considering the fragile nature of these transmissions......I dunno.
If your trans guy offers a rebuild, please consider swapping in a used "AV6" transmission from an 06-07 accord V6. I'ts a direct bolt on that is known to be reliable. There is considerable info on the AV6 swap on this site.
Good luck
If your trans guy offers a rebuild, please consider swapping in a used "AV6" transmission from an 06-07 accord V6. I'ts a direct bolt on that is known to be reliable. There is considerable info on the AV6 swap on this site.
Good luck
06-11-2018, 10:34 AM
#14
Sounds good. I hope I'm wrong but considering the fragile nature of these transmissions......I dunno.
If your trans guy offers a rebuild, please consider swapping in a used "AV6" transmission from an 06-07 accord V6. I'ts a direct bolt on that is known to be reliable. There is considerable info on the AV6 swap on this site.
Good luck
If your trans guy offers a rebuild, please consider swapping in a used "AV6" transmission from an 06-07 accord V6. I'ts a direct bolt on that is known to be reliable. There is considerable info on the AV6 swap on this site.
Good luck
06-13-2018, 12:26 AM
#17
My transmission started acting really bad - slipping gears, clunking into gear, etc. I thought it was toast. I did a bunch of drain & fills, and drove the car a bit in between each one. After two D&F it was drivable again, and I kept doing D&F every week or so for another few weeks. The tranny ended up lasting another 35K miles.
One day I got the P0740 code out of the blue. Car was driving perfectly fine. I figured I'd do a D&F on the weekend, but the next day on the way home from work the tranny wouldn't shift while accelerating. I slowed to a stop and that was it, the car wouldn't move any more. I got the car towed home and put in an AV6.
One day I got the P0740 code out of the blue. Car was driving perfectly fine. I figured I'd do a D&F on the weekend, but the next day on the way home from work the tranny wouldn't shift while accelerating. I slowed to a stop and that was it, the car wouldn't move any more. I got the car towed home and put in an AV6.
06-13-2018, 12:27 AM
#18
Drifting
I have looked at similar threads calling the the death code. But from what I was reading a lot of the people were missing gears or having a related symptoms that are usually caused by a dying out transmission. I haven’t seen or felt any of the signs or symptoms. And I’m having or transmission specialist look at it at work today and do the changeover of fluid
06-14-2018, 11:19 AM
#19
the trans started to slip really bad between 2nd and 3rd gear which is typical. But I did find a shop possibly willing to put in the av6 trans. Let’s keep our fingers crossed
06-14-2018, 12:39 PM
#20
Drifting
Replace the 3rd gear pressure switch.
Have you done the stop n go?
06-14-2018, 08:03 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
06-19-2018, 11:54 AM
#22
Well after two shops giving me the opinion of putting a used trans in and then not wanting to do the av6 swap I’m going to do the stop n go which is what I should have done in the first place anyways but hey we live and we learn. So would I just be replacing the torque converter solenoid and the external filter?
06-19-2018, 11:56 AM
#23
06-19-2018, 11:57 AM
#24
I also did some digging and it turns out the trans recall was completed on my car. So it’s most likely a blue bolt transmission. Really a shame that even a better trans still fails
06-19-2018, 04:26 PM
#25
Drifting
I would start by doing both the 4x4 and a Stop n Go (4) together at the same time with Vavoline Max Life. Meaning doing a stop n go with each 1x4, a total of 4 S n G = 4x4.
Once that have been done you can re-evaluate the situation and go from there.
Once that have been done you can re-evaluate the situation and go from there.
06-19-2018, 06:58 PM
#26
I’m also going to clean off the solenoid screens because I’m sure there’s gunk built up in there
07-04-2018, 06:09 PM
#27
So the stop and go trick had worked for about a week. I ended up replacing the trans axle solenoid because the connector broke off when trying to disconnect it. Didn’t touch the other solenoid. After about a week codes popped up again. Only did a 3x3 drain and fill. When I was taking the car to work car would go into neutral lock and seemed like the trans was in limp mode. But after the solenoid replacement and the fluid change it shifts like a champ. But the codes did come back. But still shifts normal. I pulled the clock fuse to reset the ecu. Of course the codes went away. Drove it around codes didn’t come back. Could be a thing where the ecu takes a few cycles to realize if there is an issue or not.
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01acls (07-06-2018)
07-06-2018, 10:31 AM
#28
Drifting
So the stop and go trick had worked for about a week. I ended up replacing the trans axle solenoid because the connector broke off when trying to disconnect it. Didn’t touch the other solenoid. After about a week codes popped up again. Only did a 3x3 drain and fill. When I was taking the car to work car would go into neutral lock and seemed like the trans was in limp mode. But after the solenoid replacement and the fluid change it shifts like a champ. But the codes did come back. But still shifts normal. I pulled the clock fuse to reset the ecu. Of course the codes went away. Drove it around codes didn’t come back. Could be a thing where the ecu takes a few cycles to realize if there is an issue or not.
07-06-2018, 11:23 AM
#32
Drifting
Online anywhere but I prefer from the manufacturer for the real deal.
https://xado.us/revitalizants/ex120/...c-transmission
https://xado.us/revitalizants/ex120/...c-transmission
07-07-2018, 11:25 AM
#37
it through codes again last night. I pulled the car on the lift this morning and did 2 more drain and fills. On the first drain and fill the fluid was still dark. So I did the stop and go method and then drained it again. Fluid was still somewhat dark. But after I filled it and drove it around I pulled the dipstick and the fluid was red. So it could have been the old fluid throwing the codes
08-15-2018, 12:08 AM
#38
it through codes again last night. I pulled the car on the lift this morning and did 2 more drain and fills. On the first drain and fill the fluid was still dark. So I did the stop and go method and then drained it again. Fluid was still somewhat dark. But after I filled it and drove it around I pulled the dipstick and the fluid was red. So it could have been the old fluid throwing the codes
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