Ok Everyone,
Time to show what you got!

I am trying to find the best way to mount my JL 300/4 and 500/1 in the trunk BUT keep as much of the trunk as usable as possible.

One option is to remove the spare tire and mount everything down there, but I would rather keep the tire.

I would also like to keep the bypass to the rear seats if possible.

Any suggestions, pics etc would be great.

Maybe building up a false bottom and enclosing in plexiglass?

I also have a capacitor and an audiocontrol LC6 to mount..hmmmmmmmm... maybe this is not possible.

Like I said, any help would be great.

 

Make a enclosure on each side of the trunk. kind of like this guy http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2067877

 

That is a great idea, the only problem being that on one side (drivers) I want a custom 10" sub box, on the other side is the Navi and the tv-nav converter and the soundgate aux3.

If I ever need to get to them with the amps there I am screwed.

But good ideas!

 

Has anyone placed their amps under the seats? It seems that there is enough room.....

 

There is a TL that has the amp mounted in the top of the trunk lid. I'm not sure of the link, but it can be done.

 

I've got D6 amp false floored with a plexi-glass window to see the amp. I also used an Audio Control unit but the Matrix rather than the LC6 you are using. My Matrix fit right into the factory amp location. Works great! Debating as to weather I'm happy with the location of the amp.
I too would rather not use the spare tire well for my amps. The arguement I have is that everyday I don't need my spare I'll like my amp down there, compared to the time(s) I will I'll be hating myself. Which will happen more often? Is it worth it?
I also would like to keep my pass through, but I don't remember using it... ever.
The one thing I do know I use and use a lot is my trunk. Everytime I need more space and the amp is taking up space I kick myself.

 

Can you please post some pics of your setup? That would be most helpful.

Also you have the Matrix setup by the passenger kickpanel where the stock amp is ?

Thanks for your help!

 

Also why a Matirx VS LC6?

 

Yeah I've got the Matrix tucked up in the passengers kick where the factory amp use to be. It's pretty awesome.

Funny you ask why the Martix, I was about to ask you the same as to the LC6. How is your set up? You must be keeping the factory amp. Yes?

 

Well yes I wanted to keep the stock amp for the center, handsfree navi-voice. That way I can keep the 5.1

Why did you get rid of the stock amp?

Once again, do you have any pics? I am heading to the shop tomorrow to design it with him and would love to get some ideas before I go in.

Thanks

 

I went with a Diamond Audio D6 6 channel 5.1 amp. It works awesome with our TL having a dedicated inputs for center channel and also a sub channel as well as the four channel all in one amp. Using this amp allows for me to rid the factory amp all together.

I used the Martix to up the 1V preout signal comming from the factory head unit which was capable to go as high as 6V.

If I was to keep the factory amp, I'd be going from a low level signal from the deck to the factory amp which converts to line level output that normally goes to the factory speakers, intercept it before the speaker and use this line level signal to go to the LC6 which will then bring it back to low level signal but boosting it up to 6V. This boosted low level output then would go to an aftermarket amp which of course will be reconverted back to line level output. Too much going back and forth for me which means a loss of quality.

 

How is that Diamond Audio Amp? Nice?

I am going to be running Diamond Audio s600s up fronts and M361i's in back....

Hmmm didn't know they make a 5.1 surround amp...

 

The LC6 is great for headunits w/o preouts. It is a much better solution to using hi/lo converters.

 

Oh god, I love this amp. Only thing is figuring out where the best place is to put it. I'll go take pics and post them up here in a few min.

I also used Diamond Audio 6 1/2" Hex's (seperates) up front and even swapped out the 3" center channel for a Hex 6 1/2" separate and still used the crossover for the tweeter for the center channel too. The rears I simply used the Diamond Audio D6 coaxles. I went back with 5 1/4" just to make it simple. I love the whole set up and my system isn't guttless anymore at higher volumes.

BTW, the factory remote turn on was able to turn on both my amp and my Martrix with no problem.

OK, I'll be back with some pics. It's a bit dark out but we'll see how they turn out here in a min.

 

WOW...ok, I may just have to sell the 300/4 and the 500/1 and get this amp...it may solve the mounting problems and sounds like it has plenty of power!

 

Sorry it is dark here already.

 

Where is your subs??? I have the AudioControl Overdrive that boost the output up to 9v.

 

WOW...nice setup. Just what I want....simple yet still has tons of power!

Here is something that I am confused over. Can someone explain the theory or the reason for wanting to boost the output to a higher voltage.

You both have mentioned boosting the output to 13v or 9v etc.....I don't understand that much about that stuff. I would love to understand this before I go in for the install.

 

HERE is my sub. I did this before I added this amp so previously I had a mono block which is now replace along with my factory amp with this D6.

 

Cleaner signal if you have a higher voltage preout plus less chance of noice. if go too high, your amp will clip out.

 

That makes sense..... thanks for the info.

Can I get that information for that shop that did you sub. I am trying to find a place around here (utah) and cannot find anyone that I feel confortable with to do it.

Thanks

 

Yes the higher the output the cleaner the power will be and less strain on your amp. Apparently our OEM deck gives off a lot less output compare to the after mkt decks with pre-amp output of around 4-5 volts. In result our base is not as tight or refine/clean compare to adding a LineDriver. Since I have added the AudioControl Overdrive, I have notice my base is a lot cleaner/tigher/and louder than before. So it is worth the $200 if you are going to spend on good equipment.

 

Advantage Audio in Norman, OK
Chris is the owner and the number there is (405) 579-1204. Mention Steve and his TL and he'll know exactly what you are talking about.

Where in Utah are you? I can give you some places to go if you are in the greater SLC area, one specificlly I have in mind.

 

Agreed, and since our factory headunit gives out 6 channels of clean 1V output it was the perfect senerio for me to use the Matrix by Audio Control which is also a 6 channel line driver and the D6 amp by Diamond Audio which also happens to be a 6 channel amp. Oh so perfect! ...sorry for the enthusiasm

 

Steve,

First of all, your install is awesome -- kudos!!
Secondly, did you keep the stock wiring that goes from the stock amp to the stock speakers in the front doors? I'm assuming you redid the wiring for the rear speakers of course, but what about the front ones?

 

Steve,

I spoke to Chris. He says it should not be a problem to build me the same thing as what you have.

I am deciding on a sub this weekend and will let him know so he can calculate the volume or space etc.

Second: I told him that I want the exact same trunk configuration as you have.

So we also discussed him making me the exact parts that you have for yours (since I am going to get the same amp) and giving me instruction to putting it all together inside the car myself. Cannot be that hard.

I also suggested, if we can get this 'mail order amp kit' setup done and working, that he might do a group buy for an amp kit for the site.

Anyway, thanks for the tip to call him.

He sounded very knowledgeable and that makes me feel good about dealing with him!

 

So which exact sub do you have now in that enclosure? That way I know the size I have to look at?

 

Ok Here is what I am thinking at this point:

I think going with the LC6 is a better solution for me then the matrix, here is why:

It has a 12v output line converter.....that solves the low output issue.

It accepts the actual speaker level inputs...that way I don't have to worry about any soldering of RCA's etc.

It accepts 6 channel inputs directly. Left front, Right front, Left Rear, Right Rear, Subwoofer.

What I am confused about is what to do with the center channel?
Just remove the stock amp, and then extend the center channel + and - wires to reach the extra channel on the 7 channel amp?

Any ideas?

Thanks

 

Steve,

Out of curiosity, and only if you wish to divulge the info, how much did you pay for everything. Now I'm torn between an audio system overhaul or the RonJon body kit. Buy being in Canada, I don't know if the body kit can survive our winters... so I've really gotta decide, and your setup looks amazing. The only thing that worries me is the amp placement... I really don't know where else it could go. I use my passthrough, so I wouldn't want to strap it to the backseat... but I'm curious what you paid and where you got everything. I've been looking around and your components aren't cheap.

 

I know the retail price of the diamond amp is $1599. I spoke to the person who created his setup for him yesterday. The sub box is about $350.

I don't know about the rest of the setup though.

Personally I have never understood the whole 'body kit' obsession. I think the RonJon looks great, don't get me wrong...but for example one of the reasons why I DON'T get much nicer rims is because I have a tendency to sometimes hit the rims trying to make a sharp turns etc.

I personally like spending the money on stuff I have a really hard time messing up!!

(stereo, engine, suspension, spoiler, etc) Those kinds of mods.

But the kits sure do look very nice!!!

 

Thanks zax,

You're right the rear speakers have speaker leads comming directly from the D6 amp and the aftermarkt sub of course has it's own speaker leads from the D6 too. As for running wires for the 2 fronts and center channel from the D6 amp in the trunk there is a short cut.

When running the 2 sets of rear speaker leads (non oem) for the rear speakers from the D6 amp, run the speaker leads for the 2 fronts and center channels up to the rear deck lid with them at the same time.

After connecting the rear speakers along with your aftermarket sub to the D6 amp you will find that your original speaker leads for the rear factory speakers and factory sub that come from the factory amp in the passengers kick panel remain unoccupied.

If you attach the speaker leads from the D6 amp for the front left and right to the unoccupied oem rear left and right speaker leads accordingly as well as attaching the speaker leads from the D6 amp for the center channel to the unoccuped oem sub speaker leads, you will find that speaker leads for the fronts and center channel have now been ran to the passenger kick panel without having to physically run wires.

Now with the absence of the factory amp in the passenger kick panel, cut the speaker leads of all 6 channels out of the original plug that originally came from the factory amp that were originally used to go out to the factory speakers.

Attach together the original oem output wires (that came from the factory amp mentioned above) of the left fronts to the left rears and the right fronts to the right rears accordingly as well as the rear sub to the center channel.

Now speaker leads for the fronts and center channel have just been ran from the D6 amp in the trunk to the proper location in the doors and center dash. Simply replace and attach new speakers accordingly.

If you have a crossover for the fronts you can save having to run wires into the door by keeping the crossover in the car versus in the door. Dropping wires for the tweets in the dash is much easier.

Hope all that have read this aren't too lost. I've tried to make it sound as simply as possible. Trust me, if I was able to just show you with a car in front of me it would be so simply to understand. It's just trying to see this in your head is a bit harder.

Any questions, like I always say... feel free to ask.

 

Steve,

I never thought of that, that's awesome, I love the simplicity!!

I've decided to pull the trigger on the RonJon body kit, so I'm going to be doing the speakers/amp replacement probably in 6 months or so, but that really helps to shed some light on all of it.

I'll probably have more questions for you when the time comes. In the meantime, I'm curious to know if you ever relocate that massive amp. It looks like the perfect amp for the job, but it is quite huge.

 

how do you drop new wires for the tweeters?

Do those little grills just pop out?
Where did you place the crossovers for the conponent doors speakers?

When it comes to the center channel and the Matrix....where do you have it running into it?

with only left and right front and rear....then subwoofer there is not an extra inputs.

Thanks alot

 

I originally had a 10 inch Alpine Type S and now in the same enclosure have a 10 inch Eclipse 73 Series.

 

Yeah the speakers on the dash just pop out, they are actually attached to the grille. Simply drop wires down the hole and look for them on the underside. As to the placement of the crossovers, no special place that I'll describe but the upper portion of the kick panels on both sides (double side 3M and/or zip ties come in handy if you need it).

The Matrix is a 6 channel line driver, 4 for the fronts and rears and 2 for the center and sub. There are 3 gains on the Matrix so you can gain the fronts and rears indepentantly but the center and sub will gain together so use your amp gains to compensate if needed be ( I had no problems).

 

That makes sense....are the wires labeled off the stock amplifier? I am just wondering how you could tell which wire was which....

 

That's where the Helm's electrical manual comes in REAL handy.

 

LOL.....yeah yeah yeah, I know

Can anyone supply this at all?

 

Ok Steve,

Here is something I am running into!!!

I popped out the stock sweeter to take a look at it today. Well How the heck is my diamond audio tweeter going to fit in there!!!

I am going to have to cut out the old ones, make more room for the new one and find a way to make it fit.

Any advice?

 

What you are tying to replace the stock with?

Are you trying to install the whole set up yourself?