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Thank you. I see 439 SS is not listed but I did some google searches and it seems as if 439 is used more often than 304 in exhaust systems. Maybe due to cost, but I'm fine with it as long as it lasts 8 years and doesn't visibly rust on any components that I can see while looking at the car.
my fault. not sure why i posted 304 vs 409, ATLP using 439
Small update. As I was leaving the car wash today a newer (I'm guessing 2021 to 2023) BMW 340i left right in front of me. We both turned left at the same light. He took the left lane and I took the right lane. There was a slow minivan in front of him so he switched into my lane and punched it, I punched it at the same time for roughly 3 or 4 seconds and acceleration was almost identical. It was hard to tell perfectly as we were in the same lane, but it was very close. Granted, he was stock, but I'm plenty happy with a $600 modification making such a big difference.
Small update. As I was leaving the car wash today a newer (I'm guessing 2021 to 2023) BMW 340i left right in front of me. We both turned left at the same light. He took the left lane and I took the right lane. There was a slow minivan in front of him so he switched into my lane and punched it, I punched it at the same time for roughly 3 or 4 seconds and acceleration was almost identical. It was hard to tell perfectly as we were in the same lane, but it was very close. Granted, he was stock, but I'm plenty happy with a $600 modification making such a big difference.
Agreed, but he did turn off at the next light. I can't wait to get the cat back and catless A pipe installed and then I'd like to try again. Either way, it was a good barometer to see how much the tune's done for acceleration.
I wanted to get a Ktuner for my 2023 TLX type-s but I’m afraid it’ll damage either tranny/turbo/engine - what are the odds of that? And if I reflash to stock will dealer still know I messed up with ECU and refuse warranty?
i pre order atlp cattless secondary shud be here march maybe in future ill pair it with atlp catback shit is pricey asf doe like its a danm AWE exhaust for bmw shudnt be so much but is what it is just gonna do that and see how i like it def wanna do the tune lol but imma wait till i hit 100k which is pass my warrenty
I wanted to get a Ktuner for my 2023 TLX type-s but I’m afraid it’ll damage either tranny/turbo/engine - what are the odds of that? And if I reflash to stock will dealer still know I messed up with ECU and refuse warranty?
The amount of power increase from the KTuner tune is unlikely to cause any damage to the engine or supporting drivetrain components. Of course, with any mass production item, there's a possibility of those things failing even without a tune.
A tune is always a risk the owner needs to weigh against the benefits. From my understanding, a dealer can always tell if the car has had an ECU tune. They may not specifically know it had a "KTuner Stage 1 tune", but they'll know the ECU was messed with which almost undoubtedly points to a flashed tune. They can, and likely will, void the warranty over claims of a failed engine, turbo or drivetrain component (transmission, rear differential, transfer case, etc).
As per the Magnusson-Moss Act, they'll need to "prove" the modification was the cause of the failure, but that's as easy as ...
If anyone tells you differently, they're woefully uninformed.
All that said, again, I would be incredibly surprised to see a basic canned tune causing any issue. It's when you start pushing the tune, throwing additional components (ie: turbo, downpipe, intake, etc) and making much more power that you'll likely see issues.
It really just boils down to your risk tolerance/aversion.
The amount of power increase from the KTuner tune is unlikely to cause any damage to the engine or supporting drivetrain components. Of course, with any mass production item, there's a possibility of those things failing even without a tune.
A tune is always a risk the owner needs to weigh against the benefits. From my understanding, a dealer can always tell if the car has had an ECU tune. They may not specifically know it had a "KTuner Stage 1 tune", but they'll know the ECU was messed with which almost undoubtedly points to a flashed tune. They can, and likely will, void the warranty over claims of a failed engine, turbo or drivetrain component (transmission, rear differential, transfer case, etc).
As per the Magnusson-Moss Act, they'll need to "prove" the modification was the cause of the failure, but that's as easy as ...
If anyone tells you differently, they're woefully uninformed.
All that said, again, I would be incredibly surprised to see a basic canned tune causing any issue. It's when you start pushing the tune, throwing additional components (ie: turbo, downpipe, intake, etc) and making much more power that you'll likely see issues.
It really just boils down to your risk tolerance/aversion.
That MM Act only works for personally owned vehicles so if you have a business and bought the car under the business its not protected by that act. Slip the dealership something under the table, most probably dont even give a shit honestly
That MM Act only works for personally owned vehicles so if you have a business and bought the car under the business its not protected by that act. Slip the dealership something under the table, most probably dont even give a shit honestly
For regular repairs/services or minor warranty claims, most likely won't care about a tune (or even scan for it) or mods like downpipes, intake, etc. A big ticket item such as a failed engine or transmission and the manufacturer is going to demand the scans be sent over (or send their own tech out), so the dealership has no power over hiding a flashed ECU.
I wanted to get a Ktuner for my 2023 TLX type-s but I’m afraid it’ll damage either tranny/turbo/engine - what are the odds of that? And if I reflash to stock will dealer still know I messed up with ECU and refuse warranty?
Check your ECU number against what is listed on the website. 2023 is not supported yet if you have the newer ECU.
Great question. Didn't realize it wasn't available for the 2023 models. Mine is turning 1k miles soon. I was going to order the Ktuner. Guess I gotta wait now.
Great question. Didn't realize it wasn't available for the 2023 models. Mine is turning 1k miles soon. I was going to order the Ktuner. Guess I gotta wait now.
BTW where's the ECU number located on the Type S?
yeah i'm in the same boat as you, hopefully ktuner updates the 2023 ECU's soon.
Ecu is located front left when hood is open and facing towards the windshield.
not bad, but i'll wait. don't want to spend twice the money. i don't have luck selling parts after, still got a ktuner for the 2020 accord i sold and no one bites smh....
ps: would have loved to have seen the baseline numbers to compare!
not bad, but i'll wait. don't want to spend twice the money. i don't have luck selling parts after, still got a ktuner for the 2020 accord i sold and no one bites smh....
ps: would have loved to have seen the baseline numbers to compare!
good point-
ill make a stock run and post
Really hoping ktuner can get the support for us 2023 owners soon!
Quick question. I flashed to midrange dampening 2 tune in anticipation of my up pipe/down pipe combo coming soon and it's been about two weeks and my idle start/stop still isn't back working. I remember the first time flashing it took a few days to start working again. How long after flashing did your idle start/stop take to start working again?
Quick question. I flashed to midrange dampening 2 tune in anticipation of my up pipe/down pipe combo coming soon and it's been about two weeks and my idle start/stop still isn't back working. I remember the first time flashing it took a few days to start working again. How long after flashing did your idle start/stop take to start working again?
Is this a known issue? I flashed 3 times already because of the “Cut”. I settled with dampening 2 and no more cuts. For all 3 flashes I’ve had no problem with idle start/stop.
Is this a known issue? I flashed 3 times already because of the “Cut”. I settled with dampening 2 and no more cuts. For all 3 flashes I’ve had no problem with idle start/stop.
This is exactly what I'm trying to figure out. My idle start/stop hasn't' came back yet. If anyone can shed some light on this it would be great. I'm not that worried about it, but I would like to save on some MPG's if possible. Worst case I'll just try the flash again to see if it will fix it again. Ktuner, if you're reading this can you chime in? Thanks!
This is exactly what I'm trying to figure out. My idle start/stop hasn't' came back yet. If anyone can shed some light on this it would be great. I'm not that worried about it, but I would like to save on some MPG's if possible. Worst case I'll just try the flash again to see if it will fix it again. Ktuner, if you're reading this can you chime in? Thanks!
Are you in the FB group for TLX Type S? Folks there responds right away also if you ask questions.
Are you in the FB group for TLX Type S? Folks there responds right away also if you ask questions.
I am not, I do not have FB. Worst case I'll just reflash and see. It's just weird, the first time it came back in a few days. No idea why it would take 3 weeks or longer this time.
I am not, I do not have FB. Worst case I'll just reflash and see. It's just weird, the first time it came back in a few days. No idea why it would take 3 weeks or longer this time.
That’s really odd man. I hope you get it back once you reflashed. I just developed the V2 mount for our car, building the first 20 kit right now. 22 black beauty Vent Mount for V2 KTUNER 21+ TLX only
That’s really odd man. I hope you get it back once you reflashed. I just developed the V2 mount for our car, building the first 20 kit right now. 22 black beauty Vent Mount for V2 KTUNER 21+ TLX only
Very nice! I will keep everyone updated if it ends up working again. What all mods do you have currently?
Very nice! I will keep everyone updated if it ends up working again. What all mods do you have currently?
Almost everything stock - PRL tube and filter (still contemplating on HPS intake), ATLP A-Pipe and changed the rubber charge pipe hose to PRL aluminum tube.
I have somewhat of an update. I spoke with KTuner and they say they do not mess with the idle stop at all. They suggested clearing the codes or re flashing again. So, I re flashed back to stock and then back to the mid range dampening 2 tune. I will drive it for a few days and report back if it ends up working again.
The webpage seems to indicate both a year as well as a ECU number requirement for using the V2. I received mine in early Jan 23, and likely the internals were manufactured in 22. Must the build date be in 22 for KTuner to give it the green light on support?
I have also tried my darndest to find the ECU sticker on mine. All the pics online seem to indicate it will be on the fuse box, but I have scoured that thing and haven't found a ECU sticker. Where should it be? I did find the emissions sticker under the hood, next to the latch, and there it states 6S9-A51, but I can't confirm if this is the ECU number or something related to the emissions system serial #.
[QUOTE=Daedaliss;16886522]Couple quick questions about KTuner's V2:
The webpage seems to indicate both a year as well as a ECU number requirement for using the V2. I received mine in early Jan 23, and likely the internals were manufactured in 22. Must the build date be in 22 for KTuner to give it the green light on support?
I have also tried my darndest to find the ECU sticker on mine. All the pics online seem to indicate it will be on the fuse box, but I have scoured that thing and haven't found a ECU sticker. Where should it be? I did find the emissions sticker under the hood, next to the latch, and there it states 6S9-A51, but I can't confirm if this is the ECU number or something related to the emissions system serial #. [/QUOTEmy 2023 says the same thing
sticker on the ecu is this
]
Which is out of range
. I think the ATLP is using 439 stainless, others like FW are using 304. pros and cons to both but I think 304 is more expensive yet the ATLP exhaust is priced higher than others. Also the FW piping is larger. ATLP is using 2.25 OD piping. FW uses 2.5 OD for the secondaries. Plus its cheaper by like $400
the only con to 304 is price it is superior in corrosion resistance. If you are not sure what alloy you have any 400 series stainless is magnetic and 300 series is not
@Rob5150 - Scratch that last question, I found it. All the pics online I could find indicated the ECU was attached to the fusebox. Seems for the 23 at least, it is moved over to the opposite side of the engine compartment, next to the radiator. Mine is also a A71... bummer.
I did reach out to KTuner asking about a timeline for the A71, but unfortunately they didn't have any details to share about when the might have a release available.
I have somewhat of an update. I spoke with KTuner and they say they do not mess with the idle stop at all. They suggested clearing the codes or re flashing again. So, I re flashed back to stock and then back to the mid range dampening 2 tune. I will drive it for a few days and report back if it ends up working again.
I ended up disconnecting the battery about a week ago and now just randomly today my idle start/stop started working again out of the blue. I guess once you flash there is always a random time period in which it will not work for awhile.
