‘18 AWD Aspec in Utah
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
‘18 AWD Aspec in Utah
Bought new Red iPhone 8+ today that can utilize the wireless charging
So I returned my lease on my white AWD ‘15 for this. Paid 2K returning the old to stock and putting all the parts on the new car. Lucky I kept all the old parts or I would not have been able to do this.
20X8.5 ADVANTI DST CATALAN HYPER SILVER RIMS 42mm offset
245/35ZR-20 CONTINENTAL EXTREMECONTACT DWS 06 XL tires
SPC 3 piece rear alignment kit
8Prince 15mm spacers rear
Euro motor weeks 3mm spacers front
Maxbored V6 TLX throttle body 73mm
aFe drop in filter
Gen 2 Sprint Booster
RV6 HFPC
XLR8 AWD J-pipe
H&R sport springs
Last edited by ultrapogi; 05-11-2018 at 10:00 PM.
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#2
Racer
Thread Starter
First impressions compared to 2015 AWD V6
H&R springs match the struts much better. "Dampers with revised valve tuning are teamed with higher spring rates and reworked bushings to deliver sharper responses and reduced body motions, says Acura." H&R springs on the 2015 AWD had too much spring rate for the struts so it resulted in bounciness and harsher bumps even from day one. I just was not willing to admit it for a while. On the way to the dealership in the 15 with 250lbs of stuff in the trunk and back seat it was much smoother. So i guessed it would be a better match for the Aspec and it is. The ride is very comfortable. Not bouncy or harsh. Even though H&R says it is only for the FWD 15+ TLX I think it is perfect for the Aspec. The rear is slightly higher then the '15 was. Maybe 1/2 to 3/4 finger fender gap more. I still think it looks really good and it may settle more in a few weeks.
Even though the peak horsepower and torque is exactly the same I wonder if they reworked the area under the curve? For the drive home from the dealership 35 miles it felt kinda blah but once the engine had adjusted for the performance parts it really gives a better seat of the pants feel then then 15 with the same parts. Obviously subjective but it would be interesting to dyno a stock 15 to the 18 and maybe you would get more horsepower and torque under the max value?
H&R springs match the struts much better. "Dampers with revised valve tuning are teamed with higher spring rates and reworked bushings to deliver sharper responses and reduced body motions, says Acura." H&R springs on the 2015 AWD had too much spring rate for the struts so it resulted in bounciness and harsher bumps even from day one. I just was not willing to admit it for a while. On the way to the dealership in the 15 with 250lbs of stuff in the trunk and back seat it was much smoother. So i guessed it would be a better match for the Aspec and it is. The ride is very comfortable. Not bouncy or harsh. Even though H&R says it is only for the FWD 15+ TLX I think it is perfect for the Aspec. The rear is slightly higher then the '15 was. Maybe 1/2 to 3/4 finger fender gap more. I still think it looks really good and it may settle more in a few weeks.
Even though the peak horsepower and torque is exactly the same I wonder if they reworked the area under the curve? For the drive home from the dealership 35 miles it felt kinda blah but once the engine had adjusted for the performance parts it really gives a better seat of the pants feel then then 15 with the same parts. Obviously subjective but it would be interesting to dyno a stock 15 to the 18 and maybe you would get more horsepower and torque under the max value?
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
it is not really nessesary. With a mild drop like H&R sport springs they won’t be able to fix the rear camber completely. I had it without the alignment kit for about 2.5 years with my 15 TLX. My tires where about the same age and the inside was bald where the the rest of the tire had about 3/32 tread left. I put the alignment kit on so I could get more life out of my tires. The front doesn’t need one at all unless you go lower than 1.5”
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FZ427 (05-15-2018)
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Question for everyone. I ordered some EBC yellow stuff brake pads. A little yellow will pop through from the back side of the pads. Do you think if I did some G2 color of yellow on the calipers it would look good or should I leave the calipers the way they are and have the little pop of yellow from the pads?
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
yea I don’t want to do something I would regret. The more I think about it maybe I will leave it stock colored because if I do different brake pads later it won’t match anymore. Also I don’t want to do it if it looks cheesy.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
RV6 HFPC
XLR8 AWD Jpipe
Vibrant performance 18” bottle style resonator. Eliminates 90-95% or any remaining rasp.
Looks stock but have the HFPC, drop in aFe filter and Maxbore 73mm throttle body
Extra duct for air intake. I am not sure if this pulls air in all the time or just at high flow? The normal cold air opening is in the pic above. Does anybody know how this one works? I swear the way I have this engine setup it has more intake sound than my 15 TLX SHAWD did.
Last edited by ultrapogi; 05-17-2018 at 06:59 PM.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
So just for info purposes this brand new rim/tire combo that came stock on this car 245/40/R19 Michelin tire is 56lbs. The wheel tire combo I now have is 50lbs!
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Terdbath (05-21-2018)
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Added a S factor front splitter and center lip wrapped in carbon fiber.
I only wanted to do the front and not the sides or back.
Last edited by ultrapogi; 05-22-2018 at 05:48 PM.
#14
6 Forward 1 Back
Looks great! Can you take a closer picture of the center lip? I saw that S Factor offered it, but still don't know what it is. Thanks.
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Speed_Racer (05-22-2018)
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Sorry about the rain and bugs
The center lip is just a piece that lays directly ontop of the splitter and the bolts go through both the splitter and lip then have carbon fiber spacers (5) between the lip and the body of the car. The purpose of those is to hide the 5 Bolts that are used to bolt these both to the underbody of the front bumper. The bolts go through the center the spacers which are hollow tubes wrapped in carbon fiber or whatever the person chose. Then the sides of the splitter by the wheels are bolted there.
7 bolts total are used. Both pieces give more depth and variation to the whole piece.
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Speed_Racer (05-23-2018),
Terdbath (05-23-2018)
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Speed_Racer (05-23-2018)
#18
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Kro (05-17-2019)
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Kro (05-17-2019)
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
Had to sell my rims for some quick cash and went back to stock. I bought some spacers to match up the rims to the fender.
Front tire without spacer. Rear had 25mm spacer
Rear has 25mm spacers and front has 20mm spacers. There was another car on the front page that did 20mm rear and 15mm front which I had originally but I noticed I could push them out a little more. One of the studs snapped on the front 15mm spacer (I think the tire shop over tightened a lug nut) so I moved the rear 20mm to the front and bought new 25mm for the rear.
Front tire without spacer. Rear had 25mm spacer
Rear has 25mm spacers and front has 20mm spacers. There was another car on the front page that did 20mm rear and 15mm front which I had originally but I noticed I could push them out a little more. One of the studs snapped on the front 15mm spacer (I think the tire shop over tightened a lug nut) so I moved the rear 20mm to the front and bought new 25mm for the rear.
#30
Racer
Thread Starter
Oh yea....he he. I hit a curb that was too high while parking. It bowed the splitter pretty bad and that was the best I do to could fix it. Maybe i could fix it better if I took the whole thing off and bent it around
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes the HFPC AND JPipe made some good gains. I wish someone had a before and after dyno to see where the gains where made. It has been a while since I did the mods so I am unsure what stock even feels like now. If I remember correctly it made good gains in the mid to high without loosing low end.
#35
Racer
Thread Starter
Added on a full set front and rear Red Stuff break pads and some stainless steel break lines.
Also got a Dyno done on my car today. I was a little disappointed until I saw that it was a Mustang Dyno and correct me if I am wrong but a DynoJet usually reads 10-12% higher so if that is the case I am pretty happy
Last edited by ultrapogi; 08-05-2019 at 06:45 PM.
#36
Racer
Thread Starter
The reason I got this dyno was to get a baseline of where I am at. Also I have something special(as in a first for the TLX) as a power adder I will be posting in the next few days and a post dyno to show gains.
Last edited by ultrapogi; 08-06-2019 at 01:10 PM.
#37
Pro
^interesting to know more about the unique power adder. Did you fabricate it yourself? If it does show a lot performance gains, are you planning on making more and selling them eventually?
#38
Racer
Thread Starter
Well since someone asked I will give you a sneak peak. This is something people have been doing to cars forever but to my knowledge no one yet has had it done to a TLX
#39
Racer
Thread Starter
I bought intake runners and an intake manifold based on part numbers from a salvage yard and had them sent off to be fully port n polished and gasket matched. The runners that meet the head are not ported obviously because it would only work to port n polish the head too. After the manifold was split everything inside was worked over too. I do not have those pictures. I will be getting it back in the mail tomorrow and then installed on thursday and and 2nd dyno done on friday.
https://www.instagram.com/halferland_performance/?hl=en
Follow this link to find more pics of my manifold that I had sent off to have this work done
Last edited by ultrapogi; 08-06-2019 at 05:23 PM.