Youtube upload of AC voltage at pre amplifier "Front Right" stereo wires range from 536mV - 791mV (.536 Volts to .791 Volts).

Video notes explain the details of setup.

Fix82 manual states the following
"The FiX™ 82 accepts up to eight channels (four stereo pairs) of full-range or band-limited output from an OEM audio source (250 mV – 30 V RMS)."

We have 2 sets of pre amplifier wires, the lowest they drop in brief pink noise testing was .536mv. Multiply that by 2 and you have at least 1 V RMS.


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@Know BChester linked to a thread where the person added a single wire where the stereo grounds and sent it back to where the amplifier was grounded. In your video they put it in the amplifier. I haven't had time to look into it myself but in the schematic you posted I would make double check if that's where the factory amplifier is grounded, the stereo, or both?

 

The schematic stated 3 ground going to that nut. Center dash unit hardness, factory amp harness, HU harnesses.

 

I successfully ground the headunit and OEM factory. All of the oem ground are in one nut. I tested with AC turn off, music mute, no filter, and increase gain in Amp. The noise still their but
un-noticable. No ground loop. floor noise is very very low. Before, gain almost to min and I still hear it. Let see in a few days.

All pictures in dropbox
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0427rlayy...H4AZOBePa?dl=0

 

Lie again. When I turn the steeling wheel left or right, it activate the hiss noise when muted, Will try filter plug. Or maybe I need to re-calibrate Fix82. Music on, I don't hear it when turning steeling wheel.

 

The hissing noise is the OEM amp.

 

See picture. I grounded with a 16ga wire for OEM amp. I'm thinking of changing to 10ga.

Once I get all my supplies, I will upgrade Amp ground to new location using Kolossus Fleks Kable 0ga, Krystal Kable 4 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable, Krystal Kable Twisted Pair Y Adapter 1M2F, and Stinger SPT521 Gauge Reducer 1/0 Gauge Input to 4 Gauge Pin

Question, is it ok for Amp Power wire running to battery is 4ga since I replace Amp ground from 4ga to 0ga? In the near future, I will upgrade to 0ga for Amp Power wire and move Fix82 to trunk. Maybe I'm wrong but I also think since OEM and FIX82 touch each other might also cause noise?

Also, I might need to see where the shop ground Fix82 5-pin power connector. Per manual,

 

Power and ground wire should always be the same gauge. You're probably better off just leaving it alone until you can change it all out at. Grounding the HU is more important than OEM amp and you should consider getting an LOC with more RCA outputs if you want to do this right.

 

Finally I get a chance to re-wire all the mess the shop did. I've been contacting JL support team and I have to tell you, they are awesome. They explained how to wire JL Fix 82 and what not to wired.

The shop used all butt connectors and slice OEM amp ground wire and just tape it then connect to JL fix82. I guess maybe that's where the noise come from, idk. They took oem rear wire and connected to jl fix82 input 3/4 which was for tweeter only. Now that I re-wire and solder, everything sound good and no hiss or high pitch noise.

My before and after. This is my first time soldering. Another picture is how you suppose to wire JL Fix-82

Also in my dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0427rlayy...H4AZOBePa?dl=0

 

@Know congratulations! Great to hear that good news. So when you're volume is completely at zero you don't hear anything at all? Not even a slightly higher noise floor? And you tapped post factory amplifier too so that's surprising.

Pain in the butt to solder down there but it's the best way to go.

 

Everything are tapped to Post factory amplifier. I place Fix86 in trunk. I use the slot where the air compressor locate for Fix86. I use all new wire from crutchfield, EFX 9-Wire Ultra Flex Speaker Wire. RCA I use Krystal Kable. Amp Power and Ground did not touch audio wire.

 

@01LSi i do not know how to test pink noise like your youtube. It's all from nake ear.

 

I have to retest the pre amp voltage one more time ... I was using pink noise streaming HD from Youtube. Pink noise is good for checking if the full audio spectrum is present. But with the Youtube Pink Noise video I don't know what the decibel level of that stream is. I will do it one more time but instead I'll use a "Sine Wave" .wav file @ 0dbs. Here's a link to one I generated https://www.dropbox.com/s/rr5ewgbgat...20Wav.wav?dl=0

See this post Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum - View Single Post - Helix DSP Pro - Who has info?

You can measure the voltage by setting your multimeter to "AC current" like I did in the video, and placing the positive and negative probes on the positive and negative wires of the speaker you want to test. Make sure the speaker is disconnected. Then you play the Sine Wave file I linked to above and that should give the voltage. In the video I made, I was measuring the voltage PRE amplifier. I wanted to know how strong the stereo voltage was before it was amplified.

Up above I mentioned that the manual for the JL Fix says it can use voltage anywhere from (250 mV – 30 V RMS).

I think what you are trying to measure is different than me though? So the steps / process might look different for you than me.

 

I think I got it working now. Let see in a few weeks or so. I re-wire and use speaker/amp ferrule, furry tape, and loom tube... make it look neat and clean.

 

Finally all done with my system. I upgrade power and ground wire 0 gauge. I grounded at right rear passenger seat. Audio mute and a/c off, I hear no hiss and silence “shhhh”. I got all the boom and bass.

Thank you to Bchester6 and 01LSi for all there help and input.

Next, I plan to do the 4 big upgrade.

 

I updated all power wire and ground wire plus doing the big 3/4 upgrade to all 0 gauge OFC. I tested all ground using multimeter ohm and all ground was between 0 and 1ohm. This telling it's a good ground. For the big 3/4 upgrade, I used the same grounding point since resistance are less than 1ohm. I saw 2 more factory ground under the hood that can be reachable; will do it this wkend for that 2 ground. There's are about 3 more ground that are hard to reach and will not do it. For the ring terminal, I use Bassik Battery Terminal and Top Post Adapter from KnuKoncept because I don't want to cut any wire.
These what I have done so far.
1. Alternator (+) to battery (+) --> wrap with furry tape then loom tube and finally taped with furry tape again just to tighten the loom tube opening. I had to cut 0ga ring terminal so it fit inside alternator charging power and put back the oem wire on top
2. Engine block to battery (-) --> wrap w/furry tape
3. Chassis to battery (-) --> wrap w/furry tape
4. Starter to chassis --> wrap w/furry tape

Note: Oga wire always first then oem wire on top of it.

The result was way perfect compare before the 3/4 upgrade and I felt my car kick better probably the alternator charge better and good currency flow or it just a mind playing game one me. lol Anyhow, Yes I do see an improvement in audio problem and improvement in car performance,

 

 

Get a chance to fix more stuff. Flush in tweeter instead of shop mount out handing. I think everything looks good now.

Before and after picture

 

How is the imaging with the tweeters moved from the OEM location? Do you have time alignment capabilities to compensate if need be?

 

i do not understand your question. OEM tweeter still at same location. the flushin tweeter near window is hertz. Both OEM and hertz tweeter work. Per JL rep, I just t-tap post-amp tweeter and run to fix86 tweeter slot.

next project is Naviks since it's 100% plug&play whereas navTool it still need to tap to OEM wire for power.

 

How is your imaging sound stage now that you've gone to the A-pillars. I had a tough time getting my soundstage right in my vehicle as everything wants to pull to the drivers side but a little processing and time alignment will correct these problems.

 

Sorry I have no idea. All I know is it sound good for me.

 

Amen.That's all that matters.

 

@know610 Hey, I know it's been quite a few years, but I was wondering if you remember how you did your wiring to connect the FIX 86 to the stock amp. I have a 2015 TLX and bought this harness from Mobile Max Audio but when I hook it all up, even with no power to the FIX 86, I get sound coming from my rear speakers. I can't get it to calibrate and I can't for the life of me figure out what I did wrong with the wiring. Thanks for any advice.

 

Here are some pics of the install

 

It turns out the store made the wrong connections in the harness. They mixed the wires for the rear doors with the ones for the rear deck. They're going to make me another one.