I've owned an EL, TSX, TL and today the 2017 TLX Tech-ASPEC model. I've loved all my Acuras and their premium audio except for the poor system that came with the 2017 TLX. Something went wrong. Acura won't admit it but premium on TLX today sounds like a tin can!

Anyway, it looks amazing with the ASPEC package so I will just upgrade the sound. Going with JL Audio (FIX86, XD700/5, HO subwoofer and C5 component speakers). Acura's bad, will turn out awesome.

Just one question, does anyone know if JL Audio 6.5 inch speakers will fit into the front doors. The factory speakers are 6.5 inches but may be shallow. If anyone has installed JL Audio, please let me know. Thanks

 

Please please please come back and tell us what color wires we're supposed to tap pre amp and which speakers they go to! Been waiting for someone to point that out. People have put focal speakers which are pretty big in there. Haven't opened it up yet but my impression is there's enough space for most speakers

 

Only one way to find out... Crutchfield says it does with a bracket/spacers but I would have some Birch (first choice) or MDF rings fabricated for me at the local shop. Take them the speakers so they can cut it to spec.

 

I'm getting this professionally installed and the car installer is recommending Focal K2 Power ES165k components over the JL Audio C5-650. Does anyone have experience with either? Need help deciding. Thanks

 

Sorry. I'm not doing this install myself. Though you should be aware that two professional installers (separate dealers) told me I have to disable the ANC (noise cancellation) or you'll get interference.

 

Yeah I bet. They cost almost twice as much as the JL comps but in their defense it's probably a superior product. Either one is going to be an exceptional choice.

 

​​​​​​I've heard and installed both sets and IF I had to pick based on sonic qualities I would choose Focal but from an installers standpoint I would choose the JL set as it is more of a traditional 6.5" speaker vs. the Focal which is more like 6.75" and requires nearly 3" of depth. JL's are NOT so install dependent which means they play well in factory locations where the Focals tend to be bright and up front if the tweeter isn't properly aimed which will be dependent on the installers capabilities...If I were you I would ask the place to demo the sets in a real live setting (not a soundboard) before buying as both are going to be a significant investment. IF either one of those sets is so good then somebody that works there will have them installed or knows someone willing to come in and give an audition.

 

Appreciate the great advice. I got a good deal on Focal components + active crossovers and having them bi-amp'ed with 4 channels + sub channel to power the 10 inch enclosed JL Audio sub. I'll request that the dealer fabricate birch or MDF rings which makes perfect sense. Based on what I've read, the best imaging and sound stage characteristics happen without rear fill speakers so I'm going to try without, for now. In other words, I'm not using any of the factory speakers. I'm also positioning the Focal tweeters on the door next to the front woofers, instead of the windshield frame spot. The DSP should clean the sound from the source unit. I'm hoping for an audiophile system since I can no longer stand to listen to what Acura calls premium. Thanks again for your great advice.

 

Rear fill is not required for sound quality setups and I don't recommend powering any stock speakers if you are looking for an "audiophile" setup. Also do yourself a favor and have them apply sound deadening material to the doors and trunk area... if your finances allow of course This is often times the critical detail that people forget to account for when trying to achieve sonic bliss. Do it right and do it once.

 

I was under impression that Tech/Advanced has a better audio. apparently not so much. My audio sucks. What is the real culprit, speakers or the radio itself?

 

All of it to be quite honest..Inferior products are just going to sound meh regardless of the amount of sound processing in place. You can only polish a turd so much but it's still just a turd in the end. The quality of build becomes abundantly clear as you start taking it out and comparing it to other aftermarket stuff but then again, I've never met a stock stereo that I liked.

 

Well I am not that picky, irony is that even the Civic 2012 of our children has a better sounding system.

 

Does the TLX have the same issue that the TSX tech had in that you can't just bypass the factory amp? There is so much EQ going on with the factory amp in the TSX, that I can't buy a TLX if I have to deal with the same headache trying to upgrade the stereo. Love Acura, but the ELS system is a nightmare to deal with.

 

I got the tech packaged, love the feature but hate the audio system. The ELS seem to fined tune their sound system to a more clean and clear sound but barely any bass comparing the the base model. After looking around, I ended up with adding a 10 in sub, about 500w rms system. I think the ELS is freaking much better than ever! The ANC might be annoying to someone as the system reduce the loudness when park or at low speed, but still much more better than stock. It is a cheaper and quicker way to upgrade the ELS imo.

 

Thought I'd recap and give an update on why I'm so happy with my 2017 TLX sound system now. I spent a small fortune and disconnected or removed everything audio except the TLX factory stereo. If anyone from Acura HQ reads this, they should be very proud of the 2017 TLX....EXCEPT for the incredibly bad ELS "allegedly premium" sound. Wonder if award winning sound engineer Elliot Scheiner (who helped design the audio system) is aware of the travesty. Ok, enough venting.

This is how I fixed the audio:

I connected a JL Audio FIX-86 digital sound processor to feed off the factory system and allow clean audio into a JL Audio XD700/5v2 amplifier. Then I removed or disconnected all factory speakers and added Focal Elite ES 165 KX2 component speakers for the front doors and a JL Audio: HO110RG-W3v3 enclosed subwoofer in the trunk. That's it. Front speakers and a subwoofer in trunk. The sound is a zillion times better. What's important to note is that the front door and rear deck speakers were removed and the system was professionally installed adding sound insulation into the front doors and rear deck.

How much did the audio fix cost you ask? A small fortune, but IMHO definitely worth it and I've always been of the notion that if you're going to do something, do it right or don't do it at all.

Fact is, I've owned 3 Acura's (EL, TSX, TL) since 2003 and was fine with the audio system until my most recent 2017 TLX. Hope this helps someone who is experiencing the same. Thanks

 

All you did processing wise was the Fix86? Did you feed the Fix86 pre amp signal (wiring before it hits the OEM amplifier) or post amp wiring? I have the Fix 82 and the TWK and will soon be feeding pre amp signal to the Fix so I'd like to know if you tapped the wiring before it (that's what I intend to do).

Do you have hissing or an audible noise floor when the stereo is on and not playing music? If so did they have to add additional equipment to remove that?

Thanks! Really really looking forward to getting this over with. Right now I have someone 3d printing a tweeter housing for me. I've padded up the front doors and installed the mid woofers already. Also found a T harness that I confirmed yesterday connects to the preamp wires so no cutting into the original wires is necessary. Now I need to find a harness for the post amp wiring (if it exists).

 

I can't help with wiring instructions but what I can tell you is that I researched for months and brought the professional JL Audio installer a very detailed written plan for him to follow. This system is my design and the installer used his professional expertise to wire/install. You need a professional to make it work perfectly. It took 7 hours to install and fine tune.

Please note I didn't use the TWK. I added the FIX86 DSP plus a DRC 200 remote control for master volume control to feed the JL Audio: XD700/5v2 amp. My system removes all OEM speakers including windshield frame tweeters and ONLY feeds the Focal Elite: ES 165 KX2 front door component woofers + tweeters and enclosed subwoofer in the trunk. It's all you need. No rear fill speakers required. In my opinion rear speakers often interfere too much with the ability of the front speakers to produce a believable sound stage and imaging characteristics. I’m aware these effects can be minimized if care is taken to set up the rear speakers, but they are still there. Maybe this is why you're going with a TWK?
The FIX86 once calibrated with the factory source will provide a clean audio signal. Also, I only use the master volume of the DRC-200, instead of the factory source level volume. DRC 200 adds master volume control, subwoofer level control and preserves hands-free calling features, all from the driver’s seat. When the DRC-200 is used as a master volume control, the remote controller maintains linear frequency response at all volume levels and delivers the best signal-to-noise performance for your audio system. To use, leave the volume control of your factory source unit at the specific volume position that was used during calibration. From now on, use only the remote controller to adjust your audio system volume, leaving the factory volume control at the calibration level. Important -- You'll need to know what the factory volume number is (displayed on the factory system) that was used during FIX-86 calibration.

Very important -- the professional installer disabled Acura’s Active Noise Cancellation. I think this was needed to keep hands free calling feature and make it work properly. Also, if you hear noise when you're not playing music it could be that the polarity of your wires is incorrect. A professional will be able to test and fix this quickly.

Do it right and add sound insulation in the front doors and rear trunk and also into the rear brake light fixture attached to the TLX rear window to remove all vibration when your sub is thumping.

Tweeter placement is also important and it should be next to your front door component woofers. Do not use the OEM tweeters in the windshield frame if you want sound stage. Mine are surface mounted in housing, positioned on the front doors, in close proximity to the woofer, in the doors storage compartment, adjusting firing angle with direct line to ears to optimize imaging.

Hope this helps, though I can tell you've designed your system different. Thanks

 

Nice that's your system didn't hear noise when volume mute or low to maybe 3. I have professional installed for my '17 TLX. I used to hear high pitch noise when volume mute but this pass few days, I didn't hear any high pitch noise when I mute the volume.

When car first start, I hear high pitch noise and if turn steering wheel left/right, i hear it too. When I put my ear close to the Hertz tweeter, I hear the noise from their. Oddly, these pass few days, the noise only less a few second and I don't hear it for my entire trip. Maybe you have some suggestion so I can go back to the shop for the noise.

Note: factory tweeter is connected to factory Amp (i guess). Forgot what they told.

My system:
Hertz ECX 165.5, ECK 165.5 w/tweeter
10" Sub JL 10W3V3-4, Fiberglass enclosure
Phoenix Gold 1600 5ch Amp
JL Fix 82

 

You mentioned you get noise at low volume. I think it might be because you're using the volume of your factory stereo. Please remember that when the FIX was calibrated, the installer had to turn up the volume on your factory stereo. My FIX was calibrated at volume 30. That is the optimal volume (30 on mine) that the FIX used to clean the signal. I suggest you purchase the JL Audio DRC 100 and use that as your master volume control. In other words keep the factory volume set to 30 all the time and use the DRC100 to control the volume. This eliminates the fluctuation and will eliminate the noise. I noticed the same noise when by chance m=the volume on my factory stereo was set to low by mistake. Thanks and hope this solves your issue. Victor

 

Thank you for your fast reply. I forgot to mention that the shop also installed Remote Bass Level Controller, Part Number: RBCF. This was connected from Phoenix Gold 1600 5ch Amp. Remote Bass Level Controller is only for adjusting Subwoofer, Allows 20dB of Subwoofer Level Adjustment.
1) Should I remove Remote Bass Level Controller and just install JL DRC-100 like you mention or use both?
2) JL DRC-100 connected to FIX-82?
3) After that, set factory radio volume to 30 and just use DRC-100 knob?
4) No need to do any tuning or calibration when adding DRC-100, right?

 

If you're looking for correct answer to all of your questions then take it back to the shop and have them fix it especially IF those nice Hertz tweeters are hooked up to the factory amp. Can you explain to me where the FIX 82 is located in the signal chain? Is it post factory amp or pre amp? Base models are eq'd from the HU or at factory amp?

 

I agree with Bchester6. Take it back to the installer or a different installer to diagnose your issue and fix.

Also want to thank Bchester6 for the great advice (read this thread) on helping me decide to do it right. I'm very happy!

 

No worries on all that Victor and I'm glad to hear that you're happy with the outcome. I'm just another guy with an opinion and you know what they say about opinions... but what I do know is that my bad experiences with shops back in the day (20 years ago) is what pushed me to start doing my own installations and then it eventually turned into something I could do on the side for other audio enthusiasts looking for high fidelity systems. This is extremely tough to achieve in a car cabin so every vehicle has it's own sonic characteristics based on road noise and interior acoustics. All of which are secondary if there isn't a clean signal being pushed through as it can be a frustrating venture if your expectations aren't achieved especially when you just payed an arseload of money to a bunch of "professional" installers. I can also tell you that modules such as Fix82's and such, have a place in the market for specific installations but this is not true in ALL scenarios as alot of amplifiers are designed to take various types of signals (balanced, low level and speaker level) directly for seamless integration. Shops will not offer this up front unless they are instructed to do so by the customer because all of these gadgets make money regardless of the fact that they often times introduce noise to the system and then your amplifier does what it does best which is, amplify that same "noisy" signal. Without rambling on about this, I would bet that Know610's PG amp can take his OEM pre-amp signal (balanced output) directly through the RCA inputs IF the equalization is being processed by the factory amp and not in the head unit. If I'm wrong then I'm wrong but if I'm right with this assumption and the TLX base is similar to my TSX base system, then you're paying for a bunch of unnecessary components that will ultimately degrade sound quality.

 

Thanks Victor and Bchester6. Just a note that Hertz tweeter was connected to PG Amp not factory Amp. I think I found the issue when I looking at the Fix-82 wiring but I might be wrong, So far I don't hear that high pitch after I cut wire and re-connected. See previous wiring from the shop.

Wire all show copper and almost all wires was missing thread. For example, yellow only have like a few copper thread in the slot. I think they sliced it very bad.

The location of the Fix-82 was under front passenger cabin where the our knee touch. Near the OEM factory Amp. Maybe I might take fix-82 and put in the truck. Their wire are short so I might need to buy long wire (4-conductor 22 gauge alarm wire) and use butt connector to tap to their wires.

Also, I like the idea of using JL DRC-100

 

Would you know if this one piece ( see picture in red square) removable? If yes, it would be great to put JL DRC-100.

You think it's a good idea to move JL fix-82 to the trunk?

Update: Radio work great this morning driving to work, No high pitch when volume muted or lower to volume 3. I do hear very very very low "white noise" (shhhh noise) but unnoticeable.

Thanks.

 

I disabled ANC in the Diag menu and it retains the setting unlike what others have reported. Recently unplugged the ANC unit entirely - and I have to confirm this is 100% true - it seems the last few calls didn't put out audio through Handsfree, so I may have to plug the ANC unit back in and leave it disabled through software only.

Already insulated the doors. Everything you've done sounds great.



Do you have a picture of where these tweeters are? I'm in a bit of a rut here with my tweeters because they are an unusual oval shape (Focal tweeters). The print didn't turn out as clean and OEM looking as I'd hoped so I have to get creative again on my own ... right now I've got one of them rigged in the factory tweeter spot, just disconnected not being used as I continue my progress. Maybe in the door where the bottle goes pointed upwards? That would permanently ruin the door though...

Also hopefully there won't be a need to forego the OEM volume controls to avoid having a shhh/hissing higher noise floor. I don't want to dedicate the DRC for that purpose :I

Using the TWK to add more channels, maybe I'll switch to a Helix at some point. JL said 86 would not work on my base because I only have 2 pre amp inputs it demands at least another set of pre amp channels. Which seems weird and I really hope they didn't misstate that to me ...

 

I installed DRC-100 and put radio vol to 30, then adjust drc-100 knob. Since oem tweeter was in factory amp, set to 30 i can hear like that tweeter too (low tone). adjusting drc-100, sound like 3-way or surround sound. Liking it. So far I haven't hear shhh and high pitch noise. Let see in a few day.

I guess when putting drc-100 i hear full range. sub,bass, speaker all power (heavy sound) with boom. Hope u know what I mean.

 

Low tone in tweeter isn't good. She's gonna blow.

 

Maybe "low tone" was incorrectly used.
Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think it's true in my case. Once JL DRC-100 connected to Fix-82, factory volume got disabled for all Hertz speakers. I turn drc-100 knob all the way down and tune up headunit volume and only oem tweeter sound came out. If I increase drc-100 knob, only the Hertz speaker sound increase. No affect on oem tweeter. By setting headunit vol to 30 and tuning drc-100 up/dowm, I can hear a full range (the hertz speakers actually doing it full job).

Before the drc-100, I hardly hear oem tweeter and seem like hertz speakers wasn't giving enough power that it was suppose to give. Now I can say I'm happy with the sound.

@01LSi: ".......Recently unplugged the ANC unit entirely - and I have to confirm this is 100% true - it seems the last few calls didn't put out audio through Handsfree, "
So far my iPhone incoming/outgoing works find. It connects right away,

 

This is where they installed Hertz tweeter. Wire connected to PG Amp. As for OEM tweeter wire still with factory. No changes.

https://acurazine.com/forums/5g-tlx-.../#post16071378

 

Do yourself a favor and disconnect the factory tweeter and all other speakers being powered by the OEM amplifier.

 

The only speakers that are power by OEM amplifier is the OEM tweeter. All Hertz speakers including Hertz tweeter are power by Phoenix Gold Amp.

Please let me know is their a reason to disconnect OEM tweeter that are power by OEM Amp?

 

Man, the noise came back when lower the volume or mute vol.

the sound was "ha-hee ha-hee". The other sound was me turning the steering wheel.

 

OEM power is garbage with high amounts of distortion and the problem you're currently having can be directly contributed failing capacitors in OEM amplifier. You want to disconnect the OEM tweeters for sure as this will only have a negative impact on your front sound stage. 4 tweeters playing simultaneously is not normal especially if you consider they don't have the same specs or the same sonic properties (silk vs metal dome). In fact, I wouldn't use it for powering rear fill speakers even if I subscribed to the "rear fill" theory. Does your PG amp have high level/speaker level inputs?

 

 

Yikes that sucks. Sorry that's happening to you.

Since he had the camera pointing at the new Hertz set, I'm assuming the tweeter producing that high pitch whine is his new Hertz tweeters ... unless that sound is actually coming from still plugged in OEM tweeters.

Either way I agree with BChester you should disconnect the OEM tweeters no need for four of them especially up front. Only leave the OEM ones plugged in if you can't fix the Hertz ones, then unplug the Hertz.


__________________________________________________ ____________________________


What your wiring setup appears to be ...

Looking at your JL Fix 86 image you have several inputs plugged into the Fix's input side. FL mid // FR mid // RR speaker // RL speaker // SUB.

You have one slot on your fix that is empty and probably for the tweeter wires that would come out of the factory OEM amplifier.

If the Base v6 wiring schematic is the same as the Base 4 cyl no ELS then you should only have 2 pre amp lines coming out of the factory stereo before they attach to the factory amplifier.

In other words, if it's the same as the base 4 cylinder no ELS like mine, The wires coming from the factory stereo to the factory amplifier are only two channels total. So that would mean four speaker wires total (FR+- and FL+-). I didn't look up the base V6 wiring schematic though.

Actually you're earlier picture you posted of the amplifier in a different thread proves this. Your pre factory amp harness doesn't have as many wires as the ELS models would. ELS models have all the speaker channels going to the factory amplifier, my base 4 cylinder ONLY HAS the front two channels. If that's accurate, then you only have two pairs of speaker wires going to your pre amp.

Assuming that's accurate (I did not look at the V6 base schematic) your installer tapped into the speakers AFTER your amplifier. So you're Phoenix gold amp is amplifying your factory amplifier.

Your current setup appears to be like this.

Factory stereo --> Factory Amplifier --> Fix 86 --> Pheonix Gold --> All your aftermarket speakers.

Because the Fix 86 uses the signal AFTER the factory amplifier, if your factory amplifier has a defect, or problem, or not even a problem, just that it doesn't have the cleanest power output, you are multiplying (AMPLIFYING) an already dirty signal from the factory amp. "Problems" or imperfections in signal that you wouldn't hear with the stock amplifiers max power output, you are amplifying and possibly hearing now.


__________________________________________________ ____________________________


What people are suggesting is the better way to amplify your system.

What people here are suggesting above is that you do not use the factory Acura amplifier at all. So instead you would do one of the following ...

Factory stereo --> Fix 86 --> Phoenix Gold Amplifier--> All your aftermarket speakers.

OR

Factory stereo --> Phoenix Gold Amplifier--> All your aftermarket speakers.

 

Take it back to shop and tell them to fix it. U want the pre-amp signal if u can. It will require them to solder RCA leads on so they can be plugged directly into your amp which is capable of taking a balanced differential signal. This is the best sound quality option as the noise floor is zero if done correctly. Also you should consider bridging the front four channels into your components as it will provide tons of Headroom. I'm old school so I believe in bringing lots of power and turning the gains way down.

 

I will disconnect OEM Tweeter and see what happen. Sux part is sometime the no high pitch for a few days. I call the shop and they asked me to bring the car back. So far since they have not look at it, they assumed it could be because Gain might be too high or might need a filter. Once I bring the car over they will know for sure. I copy/paste both of your response to MS Word so I can bring to the shop for review.


Oh V6 base model don't have ELS. It's the sane system as V4 Base

Thank you.

 

Good. Keep us posted please.

 

The shop kept canceling my appointment. I think I might have to re-connect myself but I don't understand below.
When you are saying Factory Stereo to Fix-82, what do you mean by that? Are you saying slice and connect wire (see picture on factory amp) to Fix-82 Input 1/2 (mid-range) and 3/4 (tweeter) or I need to go behind the radio?

Hope you can understand their wiring. The Fix82 wiring, i reconnect already. No more copper showing. Also, I'm not sure why they cut that red, white wire that hanging out (second pic).