Work VS-XX STAINED...REPAIRED...for now.
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Work VS-XX STAINED...REPAIRED...for now.
Well, here's a little thread to show the progress of my rims (well, RIM, singular, I only had patience and time for one today).
VS-XX's have an ANODIZED clear coat on the aluminum lips (Rays/Volks do the same as well), not chrome. SOME of the older ones have a high POLISHED lip with a clear on it. For those of you who don't know, anodized finishes stain when certain acidic wheel cleaners come into contact with them...well, it LOOKS like a stain, what it is, is that the anodized finish has been eaten and is now UNFIXABLE.
What to do? You can strip it of it's anodized finish, de-anodize it with easy-off or drano...or you can just use a low grit sand paper and sand it off...that's the route I took.
Step 1.) 220 grit sand paper (WET SAND), if you don't wet sand, you risk it scratching pretty deep. You will see the difference between the anodized finish/coat and the bare aluminum...keep sanding evenly until all of the coat is a uniform BARE ALUMINUM.
Step 2.) 600 grit sand paper (WET SAND)...keep water running over the rim and keep the paper moist/wet. This sands down the deep scratches and smooth's it out.
Step 3.) 2000 grit sand paper (WET SAND), some people do 1500 and then 2000 to reduce the visible surface scratches once polished, I jumped right to 2000 because we are going to get them re-anodized in the near future. This step "polishes" the aluminum metal to a shinier finish...SMOOVE.
Step 4.) Mag/Aluminum metal polish (I used MOTHER'S), use terry cloths because it isn't harsh on the metal when polishing. Take a dab and rub it on the (now bare) aluminum until it turns "black"...they say you don't have to use force...I applied some pressure and it seemed to help polish a little better. Do this in small chunks, like 4-5 in. blocks.
Now, stand back and admire yourself in that MIRROR reflection!
I did all of this by HAND...I was too nervous to use any type of dremel or rotary tool to sand or polish, BUT, I think I will be getting a little cloth polishing wheel for my dremel to really make them shine. ALSO, after the polish you want to seal it, DON'T use wax, it will just melt off as soon as you drive it...instead, use an actual sealant. I think Meguire's makes one NXT or something like that.
the pics attached are in order, from test sand and polish to complete sand and polish.
VS-XX's have an ANODIZED clear coat on the aluminum lips (Rays/Volks do the same as well), not chrome. SOME of the older ones have a high POLISHED lip with a clear on it. For those of you who don't know, anodized finishes stain when certain acidic wheel cleaners come into contact with them...well, it LOOKS like a stain, what it is, is that the anodized finish has been eaten and is now UNFIXABLE.
What to do? You can strip it of it's anodized finish, de-anodize it with easy-off or drano...or you can just use a low grit sand paper and sand it off...that's the route I took.
Step 1.) 220 grit sand paper (WET SAND), if you don't wet sand, you risk it scratching pretty deep. You will see the difference between the anodized finish/coat and the bare aluminum...keep sanding evenly until all of the coat is a uniform BARE ALUMINUM.
Step 2.) 600 grit sand paper (WET SAND)...keep water running over the rim and keep the paper moist/wet. This sands down the deep scratches and smooth's it out.
Step 3.) 2000 grit sand paper (WET SAND), some people do 1500 and then 2000 to reduce the visible surface scratches once polished, I jumped right to 2000 because we are going to get them re-anodized in the near future. This step "polishes" the aluminum metal to a shinier finish...SMOOVE.
Step 4.) Mag/Aluminum metal polish (I used MOTHER'S), use terry cloths because it isn't harsh on the metal when polishing. Take a dab and rub it on the (now bare) aluminum until it turns "black"...they say you don't have to use force...I applied some pressure and it seemed to help polish a little better. Do this in small chunks, like 4-5 in. blocks.
Now, stand back and admire yourself in that MIRROR reflection!
I did all of this by HAND...I was too nervous to use any type of dremel or rotary tool to sand or polish, BUT, I think I will be getting a little cloth polishing wheel for my dremel to really make them shine. ALSO, after the polish you want to seal it, DON'T use wax, it will just melt off as soon as you drive it...instead, use an actual sealant. I think Meguire's makes one NXT or something like that.
the pics attached are in order, from test sand and polish to complete sand and polish.
Last edited by losimus; 09-02-2013 at 10:34 PM. Reason: changed title name
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ash1221 (09-02-2013)
#2
Lol. U are dead set on a set of Work wheels huh?
That is way too much upkeep for wheels....they will look like crap in direct sunlight and get dull in no time.
For the money u are going to spend restoring those...u could have got a new set.
That is way too much upkeep for wheels....they will look like crap in direct sunlight and get dull in no time.
For the money u are going to spend restoring those...u could have got a new set.
#4
Moderator
what are you talking about??? he just repolished the lips.. upkeep is like every few months of repolish..
and yes.. i am sure he knows the lips come off captain obvious.....
and yes.. i am sure he knows the lips come off captain obvious.....
Last edited by potmilkz; 09-03-2013 at 02:18 AM.
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losimus (09-03-2013)
#5
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
Ha ha it's funny how Pot and Zapco posted after each other. You guys are so much a like in your smart ass replies to posts.
Guest I don't have to ask about your wheels now that you know what finish is on the lip. Don't be afraid to put some force when you're polishing with the Mothers polishing compound. You can also get a Mothers polishing foam cone or ball from Pepboys that attaches to a power drill. The polishing ball/cone will save you a lot of time and energy.
Guest I don't have to ask about your wheels now that you know what finish is on the lip. Don't be afraid to put some force when you're polishing with the Mothers polishing compound. You can also get a Mothers polishing foam cone or ball from Pepboys that attaches to a power drill. The polishing ball/cone will save you a lot of time and energy.
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losimus (09-03-2013)
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ha ha it's funny how Pot and Zapco posted after each other. You guys are so much a like in your smart ass replies to posts.
Guest I don't have to ask about your wheels now that you know what finish is on the lip. Don't be afraid to put some force when you're polishing with the Mothers polishing compound. You can also get a Mothers polishing foam cone or ball from Pepboys that attaches to a power drill. The polishing ball/cone will save you a lot of time and energy.
Guest I don't have to ask about your wheels now that you know what finish is on the lip. Don't be afraid to put some force when you're polishing with the Mothers polishing compound. You can also get a Mothers polishing foam cone or ball from Pepboys that attaches to a power drill. The polishing ball/cone will save you a lot of time and energy.
but yeah, when I refinish them all, I think I'll take that advice and break out the power drill instead of that lil' Dremel.
#8
Go take out your parent's trash before they kick you out of the house...25 y/o peter pan.
#9
Burning Brakes
Nice job! Looks great. Most if not all JDM wheels use an anodized finish on their lips. They are the only ones who use it from what I was told.
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losimus (09-03-2013)
#10
Last edited by Mr Marco; 09-03-2013 at 10:53 AM.
#11
Moderator
i assume this guy is vivmike then? since it was banned 8/18 and this guy reg date is 8/20...
Last edited by potmilkz; 09-03-2013 at 11:51 AM.
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losimus (09-03-2013)
#12
Mike has better things to do with his time...like trying to sucessfully masterbate while watching TV's "The View."
#14
Shhhhh, it's a trap!
#17
Moderator
lol cuz im asian i am a monk??? be more creative you racist dick..
oh well.. ive meet mike, cool dude, nothing against him.. big fucken guy tho.. i put on his lip kit..
oh well.. ive meet mike, cool dude, nothing against him.. big fucken guy tho.. i put on his lip kit..
Last edited by potmilkz; 09-03-2013 at 08:21 PM.
#21
#22
Burning Brakes
And you don't need to detail spray chrome wheels. Water and soap on a regular basis is good enough. MF towel is recommended though.
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
Gotta love the intra-webz, you can be whoever or whatever you want...an iThug, know-it-all, an iGenius...etcetera. Oh well, I USED to let that stuff bother me...back when message boards FIRST started.
Thanks guys for the opinions and useful comments/advice.
Thanks guys for the opinions and useful comments/advice.
#24
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Wow, so vivmike is now zapco and potmilkz is asian? This is one of the most informative threads I've seen in a while.
BTW, looks good OP. Hopefully it will hold up and withstand the elements.
BTW, looks good OP. Hopefully it will hold up and withstand the elements.
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losimus (09-05-2013)
#25
2012 TL SH-AWD
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for sharing your experience OP, I'm having a similar situation where I can't find a local shop to repair one of my work rim that can anodized the rim, my only option is to send it back to work in Japan and can't justify paying $600 to $700 or re polish same way OP has done but the shine will never match with my other rims.
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losimus (09-05-2013)
#26
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for sharing your experience OP, I'm having a similar situation where I can't find a local shop to repair one of my work rim that can anodized the rim, my only option is to send it back to work in Japan and can't justify paying $600 to $700 or re polish same way OP has done but the shine will never match with my other rims.
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
That's who I'm waiting to hear back from, I sent them an email to get pricing on re-anodizing all the lips & to have the centers copper dipped...YO. Anyway, when I inquired about refinishing our 18in. Volks (powder coating centers, repair to bent lip & re-anodizing lips), they quoted me $700...so there's an IDEA of their pricing. They're in So. Cal., so you have shipping fees Zelaya.
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
This is the LAST time I explain these damn rims to you Zap...don't worry about what I'm doing...if you don't like it or think otherwise, then scroll right on past my threads & posts. Cheer up there guy...life's just not that bad to where you gotz ta' beez uh iThug...YO.
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losimus (09-06-2013)
#33
Senior Moderator
yeah, I know they can be taken off, I have a set of Volk GT-U's on my V6 Altima...same process, I just didn't know the torque specs on these center piece bolts/nuts, so I didn't bother. When I refinish them all, I'll break out torque wrench...I think M8 bolts are only spec'd to 6-10 ft/lb.
Haha...Potz has been pretty kind to ME...
but yeah, when I refinish them all, I think I'll take that advice and break out the power drill instead of that lil' Dremel.
Haha...Potz has been pretty kind to ME...
but yeah, when I refinish them all, I think I'll take that advice and break out the power drill instead of that lil' Dremel.
I do this yearly on my C2s. With a little mid year upkeep and polish its not hard to keep them looking great.
The torque specs i use are 17lb/ft
(sorry for the crappy cell pics)
Last edited by fsttyms1; 09-10-2013 at 09:46 PM.
The following users liked this post:
losimus (09-11-2013)
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losimus (09-11-2013)
#37
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks!
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