I was not aware of this issue when I got mine used off another guy here. I had some little vibs due to two out of balance tires. I got them fixed, but noticed my car started having a lot of vibrations after that. After going back to my friend who did the balancing for me we found the issue.
Pictures below speak for them selves. The bolts on my front spacers (they are 20mm front and 25mm rear were a hair too long and were hitting the KNUBS sticking out of my stock 18s in the two holes. We had to shave those flat almost to clear the bolts. This solved all the vibrations I had on my car completely. If you get 20mm I thought it was flat as it felt it, but when we had the car driving the wheels on the lift, nope, the wheels were moving a little.
These were the motorsport-tech spacers.
Here are the pictures.
before

after

Pictures below speak for them selves. The bolts on my front spacers (they are 20mm front and 25mm rear were a hair too long and were hitting the KNUBS sticking out of my stock 18s in the two holes. We had to shave those flat almost to clear the bolts. This solved all the vibrations I had on my car completely. If you get 20mm I thought it was flat as it felt it, but when we had the car driving the wheels on the lift, nope, the wheels were moving a little.
These were the motorsport-tech spacers.
Here are the pictures.
before

after

Moderator
just curious since the space to so limited to shave there.. what tool did you use to get into that area to shave it
Racer
I just personally had a problem with Motor-Tech Sports and 20 mm wheel centric hub/spacers. I have the OEM 19inch HPT Wheels. The salesperson named Junior told me they would bolt on with no modifications. I received them on Tuesday and took my time to carefully install them and torque them in a star pattern at 30/60 then 90 LBS. As soon as I drove the vehicle, I had Vibrations in the steering wheel and the car didn't feel right. I thought I may have lost a wheel weight be caused I scrubbed the wheels when they were off the car. I drove about 15 miles to get them Road Forced Balance. Afterward, the balance, the shop did not see anything wrong. To make a long story short, the studs on the wheel centric adapters were to long. We torqued them correctly, but the lugs were not seated properly. When I removed the wheels, the seating for the lug nuts are all chewed up. I sent the spacers back to Lenny. I am pissed at what happened and do not know what to do. Should I hold motor-tech Sports responsible? They do have an awesome product.
Last, do you like the look of spacers without a drop? I thought they made my car look taller after they were installed.
Last, do you like the look of spacers without a drop? I thought they made my car look taller after they were installed.
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Hmmm - I was just about to order 20mm all around.
Packagingpro - you take any pics with them on? Curious to see what you saw that it looked taller. Wonder why that would be.....
Packagingpro - you take any pics with them on? Curious to see what you saw that it looked taller. Wonder why that would be.....
Racer
Quote:
Packagingpro - you take any pics with them on? Curious to see what you saw that it looked taller. Wonder why that would be.....
Canada,Originally Posted by CanadacuraTL
Hmmm - I was just about to order 20mm all around. Packagingpro - you take any pics with them on? Curious to see what you saw that it looked taller. Wonder why that would be.....
I did not have them on long enough to take pictures. They definitely made the stance better and 20mm is a great size. For some reason, the car looked taller with the wheels sticking out. If you order them, make sure you get the correct stud length.
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^^^^^
What is the correct stud length for the 4G TL ?
What is the correct stud length for the 4G TL ?
Quote:
Last, do you like the look of spacers without a drop? I thought they made my car look taller after they were installed.
My car is dropped so that is how my spacers been installed. Never had them with it not dropped.Originally Posted by Packagingpro
I just personally had a problem with Motor-Tech Sports and 20 mm wheel centric hub/spacers. I have the OEM 19inch HPT Wheels. The salesperson named Junior told me they would bolt on with no modifications. I received them on Tuesday and took my time to carefully install them and torque them in a star pattern at 30/60 then 90 LBS. As soon as I drove the vehicle, I had Vibrations in the steering wheel and the car didn't feel right. I thought I may have lost a wheel weight be caused I scrubbed the wheels when they were off the car. I drove about 15 miles to get them Road Forced Balance. Afterward, the balance, the shop did not see anything wrong. To make a long story short, the studs on the wheel centric adapters were to long. We torqued them correctly, but the lugs were not seated properly. When I removed the wheels, the seating for the lug nuts are all chewed up. I sent the spacers back to Lenny. I am pissed at what happened and do not know what to do. Should I hold motor-tech Sports responsible? They do have an awesome product.Last, do you like the look of spacers without a drop? I thought they made my car look taller after they were installed.
Not exactly sure what part you mean it messed up on yours. Mine fit just a little shaving off the wheel was required.
The tool used was a chisel air tool that just hammered it till it was gone.
I've had my spacers (20mm) for a month or so and no problems. Taking off the rear wheels tom to add some parts so I will check if the studs are rubbing. I assume not since I have no vibration issues. Also have oem wheels. Another way to shave down those nubs would be to use a die grinder with a carbide bit.
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Anything less than 21mm is fail, if I could get them again, I'd get 25mm. That said I've never had any vibration issues with the 21mm spacers I have, also from motorsport tech.
Moderator
id rock 25/25 if i get spacers.. but then again.. my front fenders are slighly pulled to fit my 20's previously.
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The fronts are the ones that rub. Not the rears. The fronts that are 20mm have longer bolts.Originally Posted by TJ Zooker
took my rear wheels off today and all was good, no signs of any rubbing
I actually took off all my spacers today to drive it for a few days this way trying to figure out what my small vibration I have left is. I am thinking I may have one tire with an issue but I want to make sure it's not the spacers either.
Quote:
I actually took off all my spacers today to drive it for a few days this way trying to figure out what my small vibration I have left is. I am thinking I may have one tire with an issue but I want to make sure it's not the spacers either.
Since I have no vibration issues I did not remove the fronts. Well the instructions say to trim your factory studs if they are too long...Originally Posted by pimpin-tl
The fronts are the ones that rub. Not the rears. The fronts that are 20mm have longer bolts.I actually took off all my spacers today to drive it for a few days this way trying to figure out what my small vibration I have left is. I am thinking I may have one tire with an issue but I want to make sure it's not the spacers either.

Quote:
Mine were bought off another member here so I didn't get instructions with them. HeheOriginally Posted by TJ Zooker
Since I have no vibration issues I did not remove the fronts. Well the instructions say to trim your factory studs if they are too long...
Moderator
im still suprised you didnt check this.. i mean the very FIRST THING you should do when putting on adapter spacers is to check of your original studs clear the wheel..
Quote:
Well we did. The ASE Mechanic that helped me also checked. It is so small that we couldn't actually tell.Originally Posted by potmilkz
im still suprised you didnt check this.. i mean the very FIRST THING you should do when putting on adapter spacers is to check of your original studs clear the wheel..
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Looking to get 20mm all around. I had a few questions:
1) is a special tool required to install?
2) can these be left on year long and through winters or does this increase the risk of rusting/seizing?
3) is handling improved with spacers?
4) do I need to specify stud length or just 5x120, 20mm and 64.1 CB?
1) is a special tool required to install?
2) can these be left on year long and through winters or does this increase the risk of rusting/seizing?
3) is handling improved with spacers?
4) do I need to specify stud length or just 5x120, 20mm and 64.1 CB?
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When you put them flush against the hub, it might have been VERY slight, but they couldn't have been totally flush when you felt it. Had this issue with my fiance's accord when we tried to run a 15MM. It wasn't thick enough to bury the stud behind oem wheel. Most aftermarket wheels DO have an empty area or even a hole there to accommodate whatever spacer you want.
My guess, you used a dremel to flatten that area...other solution would be to just run a 25MM spacer all around.
My guess, you used a dremel to flatten that area...other solution would be to just run a 25MM spacer all around.
Quote:
My guess, you used a dremel to flatten that area...other solution would be to just run a 25MM spacer all around.
We tried a dremel and the alum was getting built up into the bits. So we had to use a hammer flat end type tool that knock it off. Worked much faster.Originally Posted by rockstar143
When you put them flush against the hub, it might have been VERY slight, but they couldn't have been totally flush when you felt it. Had this issue with my fiance's accord when we tried to run a 15MM. It wasn't thick enough to bury the stud behind oem wheel. Most aftermarket wheels DO have an empty area or even a hole there to accommodate whatever spacer you want. My guess, you used a dremel to flatten that area...other solution would be to just run a 25MM spacer all around.
No special tools required. Just buy the spacers, comes with lugs, and bolt it on with some blue antiseeze.
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Gotha! Like an air hammer chisel type of deal?
Well, if you go 25, that would likely be fat enough to hide the lugs and not even have to modify the rims, right?
Also, beware using anti-seize or overtorquing. I know it's counter intuitive but the nuts that come with ichiba are VERY soft metal and will strip really easily. 80 ft/lbs in star pattern and go over each twice is enough to hold tight and still be removable later.

Well, if you go 25, that would likely be fat enough to hide the lugs and not even have to modify the rims, right?
Also, beware using anti-seize or overtorquing. I know it's counter intuitive but the nuts that come with ichiba are VERY soft metal and will strip really easily. 80 ft/lbs in star pattern and go over each twice is enough to hold tight and still be removable later.

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The OEM wheel nut torque spec is 94 foot-pounds for the 4G TL which uses a bolt pattern of 5x120" and bolt size M14.
80 is for the smaller wheeled Honda/Acura vehicles with a 5x114.3" pattern and M12 bolt size.
80 is for the smaller wheeled Honda/Acura vehicles with a 5x114.3" pattern and M12 bolt size.
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^right. Well, I guess I was getting at NOT putting anti seize on it and then hitting it with your 650 ft/lb double hammer impact gun. 
Quote:
Well, if you go 25, that would likely be fat enough to hide the lugs and not even have to modify the rims, right?
Also, beware using anti-seize or overtorquing. I know it's counter intuitive but the nuts that come with ichiba are VERY soft metal and will strip really easily. 80 ft/lbs in star pattern and go over each twice is enough to hold tight and still be removable later.
25 is enough to clear them as my rears did. Yes, air hammer chisel exactly. I was recommended by Zeyala to do the anti-seize as they have a tendency to come loose a little which mine have. After twice tightening them down, they are good to go.Originally Posted by rockstar143
Gotha! Like an air hammer chisel type of deal? Well, if you go 25, that would likely be fat enough to hide the lugs and not even have to modify the rims, right?
Also, beware using anti-seize or overtorquing. I know it's counter intuitive but the nuts that come with ichiba are VERY soft metal and will strip really easily. 80 ft/lbs in star pattern and go over each twice is enough to hold tight and still be removable later.
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Nice man, maybe it's the heavier car. Not sure but mine have never come loose at all.
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I have 20mm Motorsport Tech spacers on my 2010 TL with no issues. I have the stock 18" wheels, and I believe those have enough of a 'gap' for the studs to clear.
Quote:
Well my stock 18s didn't clear but I have the newer stock 18s. You may want to check and not assume as I originally thought they cleared.Originally Posted by Defjamz
I have 20mm Motorsport Tech spacers on my 2010 TL with no issues. I have the stock 18" wheels, and I believe those have enough of a 'gap' for the studs to clear.
Cruisin'
I just received my 20mm spacers from Motorsport Tech only to find that one of the studs that were plugged in, was a different size than the others! Now I have to wait for them to ship out a new piece. They appear to be great quality though.
Intermediate
Quote:
20mm front, 25mm rear.
no rubbing, no vibration
i was thinking of getting the same spacers. what was the offset on your rims?Originally Posted by 23109VC
i have motorsport tech spacers.20mm front, 25mm rear.
no rubbing, no vibration





