VSA ABS light on
Sorry, you have this problem - but careful with a used pump-unit. If it has been sitting in the wrecking yard for months/ years, it will probably also be rusted inside.
A SUGGESTION: it may be possible to *fix* your problem. First, I suggest that you have the brake system power flushed. That might free the pump solenoids. Even so, after the power flush, you would still need to manually flush the entire system by hand. There are a number of threads in the TL section, I think the 3-gen forum, on how to do that.
The idea is that you must get as much sludge and rust out of the system as possible. After the power flush, and manual flush, a bit of careful driving may heat the fluid enough to free up the pump. Certainly, it will cause the pump to cycle, which cycles the fluid through the entire pump and solenoids, and back into the master cylinder. You can judge progress, by looking at the fluid in the master cylinder clear *tank*.
Then perform a second power or manual flush. You would be able to tell if this procedure is working, by noting the color and *texture* of the fluid which you pump out of the system.
You must be removing perfectly clear brake fluid out of the wheel brake cylinders, just as new as the fluid you are pouring into the master cylinder.
AND ONLY USE HONDA BRAKE FLUID. It may cost a bit more, but its different than other dot-3 fluids. Your choice of course, but you are the one with the problem.
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Some general info about brake fluid here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-diy-faq-161/comments-%96-honda-dot3-brake-fluid-comparison-873329/
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-diy-faq-161/comments-%96-honda-dot3-brake-fluid-comparison-873329/
More likely you have a sludge problem. And one or more flushes may flush out enough sludge to allow the ABS pump solenoids to move. I would be interested in the *look* of your brake fluid: color, suspended deposits, etc. Is it mostly clear, or does it look like mud?
If doing your own flush, remember to remove fluid from the master cylinder, down to the LOW mark, before starting the flush. OTherwise, you will be pushing whatever is in the MC throughout the entire system, including the ABS pump.
and under NO circumstances attempt to wipe out (clean) the master cylinder tank. The tiniest piece of lint will only jam the ABS pump solenoids.
I use a EAR plastic *eye-dropper* I get from the local pharmacy, to remove brake fluid from the master cylinder tank. And with careful use, I can suction-up any sludge inthe bottom of the tank.
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It is also possible that you have an electrical problem, rather than a mechanical one, with the ABS pump. Check carefully any connectors to the ABS pump. Check for corrosion on the connector pins. Use silicone di-electric lube when reconnecting any connector that you have disconnected.
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and you might get a second opinion from another dealer or independent shop. In particular, ask if there is more than one reason for the DTC you got. I would look in my FSM for diagnostics, but I have the RDX manual.
Last edited by dcmodels; Jan 29, 2014 at 07:07 PM.
From curiosity, I checked online for used ABS/ VSA control units for a 2009 TL: standard price is $400 (with a $5 off coupon - joke). Lots of them for sale, so perhaps a used unit is actually a viable possiblity. I did not see any sort of warranty, however. The OP indicated interest, so perhaps they are capable of replacing one themselves - it does simply unbolt and unplug. Not sure I would try it. I assume the $1700 price included labor? Pretty pricy item, what?
Today I ordered a used ABS Pump for 395 from Florida. I should be getting it next week. I drive way to much to not have ABS working. I will post pics of the internal of my old pump to show what poor serving does. I was going to flush the system but with the cold weather and the time it would take I just opted to change it.
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