So this morning, I shifted into Reverse and the car stalled out. I restarted and if I shift to Drive, it moves with no issues. If I shift to Reverse, it stalls. This happened 5 times then I just put in Drive and had to get to work. Down the street, while light accelerating into a right turn, the engine surged violently 4 times, but was the only time it did it. After I got to work, I put it in Reverse and everything was back to normal. Is this indication of something to come? I did let the car warm up for just a few min. The temp indicator was still at minimum but the outside temp was around 35, so not extremely cold. Any thoughts?

 

Are you getting any low voltage or battery warnings?

 

Sorry, I don't get notifications. Anyways, I'm not getting any low voltage or battery warnings. Later that day, I made another right turn and the TL did about 4 or 5 violent surges and then the P0102 warning popped up on the screen and then "Check VSA System" and Check Emission System" came on in the center dash area. After I got to my destination for work, I shut it off and let it sit (cause I had to work). When I got back, all the warnings were gone and it was driving fine all weekend. This morning, it started doing the Stall on Reverse again. I looked up last warning of P0102 and it describes "Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Voltage" . Wait so there is low voltage error. Anyways, it says to check and replace air filter and clean MAF, before replacing. Air filter was dirty so I bought a new filter and new MAF sensor. I installed both and it's still doing the same thing. It has no problem going in Drive or idle or starting, so I don't know if it would be a battery, since you asked if there was any battery warnings. So I am back to square 1.

 

It's probably your alternator. I would take it to Autozone or something and have them test your battery and alternator.

 

Clean your battery terminals and tighten down

 

I'm pretty sure I found my problem. After I wrote the above reply, I went out and messed with the TL some more. I had it at idle and then I shook the flex air tube between the motor and airbox. The TL stalled out. Restarted, shook it again, stall. So, I figure a short somewhere. After closer inspection, I noticed that who ever opened up the air box cover previously, clamped down on the MAF sensor wire harness, it was flat. I just bought the car 3.5 months ago, so it wasn't me...lol. After getting into the harness, the yellow wire was cut. I'm guessing it was hanging by a few strands until I started taking the tape off. Reattached everything and it seems to be driving perfectly fine now except the Check Emmission and VSA are still on. I'm guessing I just might have to reset them or hopefully they'll reset themselves. I'll let you guys know once everything clears. Thanks for the help.

 

if you'd like to speed the process along, you can undo your battery cable for a few minutes before putting it back on and that will reset everything.

 

Not always. If your lights remain on, I recently posted a youtube video describing the reset procedure. Just search youtube for "VSA, ABS, Hill Assist Reset" and it should pop up. Not sure about the emissions warning, but I would think that would go off on its own after disconnecting the battery.

 

Sounds good. I'll have a look at the video after work. I hope the emissions go out too. Just have to make sure I have the Radio and GPS codes first. Thanks.

 

Watched the video, but I have the push button, so I don't think I can hold down the brake pedal and somehow turn to "on" without starting the car. So I disconnected the battery and let it sit for a couple minutes. After I reconnected the battery, both emission and vsa lights remained on yet it's been running like a champ since I found the cut wire. I've started the car numerous time throughout the day for work and finally this evening I started it up and "no lights". Maybe it just needed to be driven a certain mileage to reset. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

Did you ever fix this problem?

 

Just wanted to say great job on finding and fixing this on your own, and thanks for reporting it here so others can benefit (if needed)!

 

although his situation has to be about 1 in 100. lol

 

I AM NOT THE OP, BUt was having a similar problem. Just wanted to update everyone. My issue is solved with the Unique symptom of stalling when on an incline in revers. It took a lot of things being replaced in stages and thank God Acura honored their product
and graced me to be covered under warranty alongside my own Extended warranty Company...together made the burden more bearable.

• Transmission/Torque Converter Replacement (Clutches Burned)...This would be my SECOND transmission installed. First Dealership I think didn't know what they were doing. OR was just bad tranny. The second install was done CORRECTLY by another dealership. What a difference a transmission makes.
• (Thought might be sticking, Stall Continued After Replacement)
• Belt Tensioners and Belts and water pump replaced (All ticks of any-kind at cold start up went away, made it purrr like a giant panther at start up now.)
• Mass AirFlow Sensor (this is suspected to be the main cause and SUPER hard to diagnose) But if your car stalls on an incline or only in reverse, its worth switching out the ...
• Break Fluid Exhange (HUGE difference in stopping power...HUGE

It finally drives like a always believed it could. Its fast with seemingly limitless acceleration. The torque is thick...its seriously a thrill to drive. Even daily commutes get me excited.
Now all I have to get rid of is this metallic rattle during some take offs...based on thumbing through the forum apparently there's hundreds of us that have the same problem.
ONce thats fixed...I think it might hit the perfection point for me. Sorry but Im pretty damned enthusiastic about my TL.. LOL
It has chnaged the way I see my car.

 

I was having the same exact issues as OP. This has to be more common than the forums indicate....I was driving at 90 mph straight road in Georgia. My 2011 Acura TL 3.5 auto with Nav and 102k miles. I had the same symptoms as OP. Car shuttered and loss of power and then regained power. A few miles down the road same thing only this time the check emissions light and VSA light came on... The vehicle went into limp mode, would not go over 3k rpms ....I checked codes 18-1 and p0102. I at the advice of many on this site recommended, inspected wheel speed sensors, air cleaner, oil level, pcv valve and even swapped the mas air flow sensor, all seemed ok. I reset the codes and the lights went off only to return a few mins later... Ohhh and upon starting the car sometimes would die immediately and when it would run it would die if I put car in reverse...I noticed if I reset codes and only put car in drive the lights would not come back on for approx 5 mins and the car would operate fine and rev beyond 3k.... then light back on and limp mode again......THEN!!!! I came across this post, I inspected the air box and noticed the maf wires pinched in air box and sure enough the yellow/black stripe wire was cut...... OMG what a relief..... I repaired the wire and I got my car back..... Thank you

 

Must have been somewhere like Jiffy Lube that changed the filter. I'm not sure how you'd pinch the maf wires in the airbox. First, you'd be a dimwit to not notice wires stuck in the box when you went to tighten it. Second, there would likely be some resistance when tightening it down. Maybe I'm being judgemental but it seems like a pretty dozer mistake.

 

When this happened to me, it was the "Something Evap" had it replaced. The put went away. it used to do it When i would try parallel park on a hill ( i live on a hill) it would stall and put. Just the emissions light came on.