Thanks in advance for ur help.
I've replaced brakes on my accord and tsx before.

1st time trying to replace rotors n pads on my 4G TL.

Removed calipers, pads and screws.
I can't for the life of me remove the rotor from hub.

did I miss anything? Do I need to remove the center hub ring? I didn't have to on my prev cars. Thx again.

 

Got a big rubber mallet? I had to beat the piss outta mine to get them off. Sprayed LPS #2 on both sides prior and let it soak for a few minutes. Finally got them off

 

Thanks.

I think I gotta try this.

 

update - finally got em off using the method above - had to spin the hub so it did it to both sides....damn they were tight like a vi..... lol

 

good stuff, ya that rust can be a bitch

 

yah had to use my friggin torque gun to pop those babies off....
thx for ur help

 

I replaced the rotors on my old car and they were a bitch to get off...ended up having to use a gear puller and in doing so I ripped my hub in half!

 

ouch

was thinking the same thing, what if these rotors crack in half!

damn these TL rotors are rusty and tight....

thx man

 

Hi Leebog!
Interesting. I got my 2010 TL FWD last Oct. and the first thing I did was the brakes. I have done brakes probably 100 times, mostly on Japanese brand cars and trucks but I have never encountered rotors seized like mine were! You need to be cautious doing brakes, especially don't be beating on things as you can damage the sensors for the traction control/abs. VERY costly! Glad to see you were finally successful. It took me an hour to get the front rotors off my car. In addition to the method in the video here, there is another way that may work too. There are two threaded holes in the rotor that you can screw a bolt into and force the rotor to come away from the hub. Obviously you need to correct size metric bolts! When you get them off, clean everything with a wire brush and emery paper. Reinstall using anti-size compound where the rotor mates with the hub.

 

Obviously I meant "anti-seize" compound, available at most auto supply stores. The coppery lookin stuff is great, also oily silvery stuff is available. Just need small amounts. It's also a good idea to get some high quality brake lube. It's for lubing the pins that the calipers float on. Finally, rather than the c-clamp method (which works fine) you can buy a piston return tool for cheap which is very handy to have and easier to use.

 

great trick...I will remember that

 

Interesting! I bought a Ford F150 and the rotors were extremely difficult to remove! Truck was three years old with 80,000 km. A friend of mine who is a top mechanic was telling me he has had to actually cut rotors off with a torch!!

 

That's what the two other threaded holes in the rotor are for. The are called "jack-off" holes. Leebog: They are located at 2 & 8 o'clock position in your original picture. I think they are 8mm threads. Screw bolts into these holes to "jack-off" the rotor.

BTW, I assume you removed the phillips head counter sunk screw from the face of the rotor hub. It's hard to see in your picture. If not you will probably need an impact driver to removed it. A hand held screw driver rarely works.

 

More detailed info attached. The 8mmx1.25 bolts can be purchased and just about any hardware store

 

mine were seized on like a mofo. Took me 3.5 Hours to take off 2 front rotors. I even used the 2 jack-offs and the rotor started cracking and would not budge. Of course I used the sprays etc, it was just so much rust. The trick that did it, was to hammer the shit out of it from the back, could not feel my arms for 2 freaking days after. 3.5 hours of hammering. Hopefully my adam's rotors will do better and I will not need to replace them.

 

its a good idea to apply a thin layer of copper compound to mating surfaces before installation of new rotors...this will make removal a breeze in the future...

 

enjoy them and let us know!