Hey everyone,

I was working on my car last weekend inside the engine bay and I ended breaking the stud on one of the coil packs so I had to wait for a new one to come in, which it did today so I fixed that and when I went to test drive my car I noticed that there was coolant all over the engine bay. I poped the hood and revved it a couple and noticed that it was shooting out of my radiator due to a tiny little hole in the radiator. It's a decent size leak and I want to fix it as soon as possible.

My question is do I need a new radiator now? Or is there anyway to fix it besides buying a new radiator? Also is it bad to drive to the dealer if I bring it to them to get fixed? Also if I need a new one and I want to save some money and go the install myself would it be difficult or an easy install?

Thanks guys in advance, I want to get this revolved ASAP.

 

Oem parts are best especially for a noob. Perfect fit, no surprises, quality.

Aftermarket may or may not fit. You won't know until you're doing the repair. Unless you're familiar with the manufacturer your guess is as good as mine... 50/50 chance for a good one that will last.

On a scale of 1-10... this job is about a 5. Basic hand tools... metric.

Use oem coolant only. Two gallons of premix should do.

I suggest you buy a service manual.

 

Thanks for the help man! Definitely agree with you about OEM parts vs aftermarket. I will 100% be buying an OEM radiator. It looks like it's just a couple of bolts and some hoses and other little things. Correct me if I am wrong please. Also should I drain all of the coolent before doing this install? I actually put in autozone coolent last week so I'm thinking I should probably drain this out anyway. What website did you find that radiator on because the cheapest I could find it for was $273( I have a 2010 FWD).

Once again I really appreciate the help man!!!

 

Discount factory (OEM) Acura parts and accessories at Park Acura OEM Parts

Cick on "OEM Replacement Parts", upper left area.


Caution: only open radiator cap when cool, never hot.

Yes drain coolant first before swapping by opening drain valve at bottom of radiator or remove lower rad hose. However, be sure to open heater valve by turning heater on with heat setting set to hottest temp. turn key off.

Rad is suspended on all four corners by rubber grommets. Be sure they are there when reassembling and make sure all air deflectors or seals go back where they belong.

0. Remove engine covers; radiator cap; over flow tank hose.

1. Remove upper and lower rad hoes.

2. Disconnect trans fittings and power steering lines if present.

3. Unplug fan connectors and any sensors if present.

4. Remove rad assembly with the fans attach.

5. Check that the lower rad rubber grommets are still at the bottom of the rad support. If not find them and put them back where they belong.

5. Transfer fans and all parts to the new rad. Fans will come off as 2 assemblies.

Install in reverse order.


Adding coolant.

The following coolant burping procedure is generic. It may or may not work on your vehicle. Once done take it for a test drive but stay close to home just in case you need to park it quick. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge just in case.

If vehicle runs warmer than normal then you will need proper burping procedures by following a service manual.


Use oem coolant only. Heater still set to hottest temperature setting/fan on low.

1. Top off over flow tank to max level.

2. Fill rad til full (bottom of filler neck). Put on rad cap to first click only. Have way.

3. Start vehicle and let idle untill rad fan comes on a minimum of 2 times.

4. Turn off vehicle and remove rad cap and top off rad to the bottom of filler neck.

5. With the rad cap still off start vehicle and rev engine at 1500 rpm until rad fan comes on.

6. Turn off vehicle and top off coolant a final time.

7. Install rad cap to full lock position.

8. Finish.


Check trans fluid.

Check power steering fluid if disconnected.

 

Thanks so much! That's exactly what I've been trying to find! I will definitely be using these steps you provided for when I install the new radiator. I'm going to either order it from my local Honda or Acura for the quickest shipping time, hopefully they will have it ready by tomorrow.

Non of the lines I will disconnected are pressurized correct? Like so I won't have to have any of the lines re pressurized. I know this it normally just for the brake lines but I just want to make sure. When plugging the trans line and power steering line back up are they just plug and go? Are they just easy to take off clamps?

I really appreciate the help man, hoping I'll have this fixed my tomorrow. Thanks again!

 

No, lines are not pressurized. Lines are threaded or clamped.

 

I ordered a new radiator from Acurapartsforless and I will be picking it up tomorrow morning. Everything looks pretty straight forward so thanks again for the help. The last question I have is about when I put the new coolant in you said to let the fan run twice after first starting the car but is it safe to open the radiator cap after doing so to continue the process?

 

You must of miss the part where I said to install the rad cap to first click only - half way during burping.

Rad caps have 2 stages of lock. A simi lock and full lock.

In full lock position it will pressurize the cooling system (2nd stage).

In simi lock position its design to vent the pressure with out the cap flying off under full pressure when opening. (1st stage).

In stage 1 the pressure will be very low, allowing you to remove the rad cap safely.

If you are not comfortable with this then leave the cap loose.

You can also tell if the cooling system is under full pressure by squeezing the upper rad hose.

If it's hard it's under full pressure.

If it's simi soft it's not.

Sorry, for safety I should of made this perfectly clear.

 

I finished installing the new radiator and everything looks to be okay. I filled up the radiator with coolant like you suggested and let it run with the cap half on until the fan kicked on 3 times. When I took the cap off the coolant was still at the bottom of the filler neck (still full) where I had originally filled it up. I then let it run for about 20 minutes with the cap completely off and revved it until the fan came on twice and the coolant barely went down at all. I'm hoping this is good and just means that there were no air bubbles. If something sounds wrong with this please let me know. I drove it about 20 minutes away and everything was good so far. Thanks again man! You've been a great help.

 

Wow that's awesome great job.

Tomorrow morning or day after when the car is cold remove the rad cap and check the coolank one more time. While you are under the hood give it a visual inspection for any coolant leak. Especially the hose connections and any new part.

For a week or so keep a close eye on the temperature gauge and look for leaks under the car.

:gheywave:

 

Thanks man! I will definitely keep checking the coolant level as well as checking for leaks. I'll make sure I keep an eye on the temperature gauge, I drove about a total of 40 minutes today and didn't take my eye off it haha. The coolant overflow went down to the minimum level so I filled it back up to almost the max. Guessing the radiator sucked some of it in.

Once again man I really appreciate all of the help! You made the process much easier good luck with your car as well and enjoy the summer