My blower stopped pushing out any air last weekend. I searched around and decided to change the power resistor, put the new one in but did not place it back into the slot on the firewall with the two screws just left it hanging because I ran out of time to finish that part. It was working when I plugged the new one in, but the next day while driving to work it stopped again. When I got home I started checking some fuses but could not get to the relay. I put 12v on the blower motor itself and it spun, so I tried plugging in the old power resistor and then the air started working again. Once again I just left it hanging because I was out of time, now this morning the same problem where the blower stopped on my way to work. My question is does just leaving it hanging freely cause the problem of it to stop working? I will swap them again tonight when I get home to see if it works from there.

 

Update: I am at step 21 following the HVAC self diagnosis for Mode and C error. What I am unsure about at this point is when they ask "is there voltage?" what what voltage range are we looking at? I measured about 0.1v which doesn't seem like enough to satisfy the conditions, looking for advice before I start going crazy trying to find.

I continued on after that but it was getting late and my body was hurting from the contortion of working under the dash. I checked the voltage to the 2P connector to the blower but I think I had the ignition ON(II) and it was getting 12v, if no one can help me with the above question I will probably end up buying a new blower motor. I just find it weird that all the previous steps where you jumped other pins to see if the blower turned on were fine and if I apply 12v to blower from a power source it will spin which makes me wonder why it would be bad.

 

Iven now tried a new blower motor, new power transistor, and a new relay. I will be taking the climate control unit to work tomorrow to look over with a microscope and do some testing to see. I will probably end up buying a use one off ebay because there really isnt much else I can check besides whether there is a short or open from the relay socket.

 

Are you using OEM for the power transistor (resister) and blower? I cycled through this issue when I tried to buy the transistor and blower motor from Rock Auto. It just wouldn't work until I broke down and purchased Honda parts (at more than twice the cost). The relay may not have to be OEM as long as the resistance across the coil contacts on the relay are comparable to OEM.