rcoz89117

I have a 2011 Acura TL Tech and I believe I have a power drain issue. I tested the amps being pulled with the car completely off and it comes in around .28 A This seems high to me being that I see online that .02 is a more acceptable reading. That being said I have read that a lot of power drain issues come from the handsfreelink system not shutting off but I am not aware if this is an issue in the generation 4's. I guess I am asking is a .28 A reading normal for the tech model and if not where is the HFL module located in the car since I looked in the lighting console near the sunroof and it is no longer there.

Thanks Everyone

rcoz89117

Can someone measure the amps with there car off so I can get another reading to compare with?

rcoz89117

Am I not clear in what I am asking for? Can someone please use and amp meter and do a simple power drain test on the battery and tell me the amount of amps being pulled when everything in the car is in the off position as well as the car?

csmeance

.28A is 280 mA which is too high! Make sure you are checking the car after 10 minutes of the doors and hood being closed and locked!

The only solution is to pull a fuse out 1 by 1 and check how much the draw drops by. Once you find the circuit that puts it down to the more acceptable .02A you'll know where the problem is.

You can try pulling the HFL fuse first.

rcoz89117

csmeance, do you happen to know which fuse is responsible for the HFL. Do you know where the HFL is located in a 4th gen acura? I looked in the overhead where to sunroof switch is, bit they are no longer located in this area. Any ideas?

csmeance

There should be a fuse box under the hood with a diagram on the underside of the lid. Another one is in the driver footwell with a diagram too.

I'm not sure off the top of my head but start unplugging fuses 1 by 1 in order to figure it out vs unplugging just the HFL.

Reorge

You are asking for a lot. We will lose our set memory settings (actually only one if reprogrammed as is) if we disconnect the battery to perform your request. I agree with the above. 0.28 amp is too much (0.28 amp * ~12.5v = 3.5 watts).

Reorge

I had to remove my battery for another issue (tranny filter). I measure the parked amperage as 0.0

tubgrill

Max spec is 50 milliamps. Parasitic draw from a faulty HFL unit is usually in the 240-280 milliamp range. Audio fuse (I think its under the driver's side dash) is the fuse for the HFL

Tonyware

Same issue here but '09. I suspect bluetooth since on the '09 the part number (39770TK4A11) is the same as some older MDXs that complain about the same bluetooth issue, i.e. it goes bad and starts to drain battery. Fuse to disable all things in center console like navi, radio, voice, phone etc is #15 under driver dash (first one from the top, middle row of fuses, 7.5amps). Before disassembling everything in the center console to remove and replace this very pricey (~$200) handsfreelink module, or even disconnect it, I have removed that fuse and I'll wait a few days to see if the battery goes dead again (that means I may be looking at some other issue). Sadly my multimeter is broken to check for amps.

PS. coincidence when it rains the battery goes dead faster... or at least I hope it is a coincidence !

Tonyware

Same here, but I suspect my multimeter is broken. However, if it is not, it may be the case that when "dark and cold" the car is using some other "little" rechargable battery built-in somewhere in one of its electronic modules for "wake up" purposes... and when it wakes up then it draws real battery power. Too scared to leave the door open/unlocked and do the amp test with the multimeter, since mine goes up to 10 only.

BTW, here is a video that explains the process of testing for drain: How To Perform a Parasitic Draw Test - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube

Tonyware

Long story short... it was the battery. Those Eliminator AGM may be good in cold weather, but in extreme hot weather something goes wrong with them. To make things even more interesting, a regular battery tester (like the big machine they have at Canadian Tire to test for warranty purposes) don't detect dead cells in AGM batteries but tell you all is OK ! So the service guys told me the battery is ok !! A hand held tester that is capable of testing AGM batteries proved them wrong.

2 year old MotoMaster Eliminator Ultra AGM dead. Buyer beware.

Finally the store manager offered to replace it under warranty with the same MotoMater, I refused... I picked up a yellow top AGM. Lets see how the Optima story will go...