Timing belt and oil pump job done. Things were dry for a while, but just noticed today there's oil again. Looks like it's the rear main seal, unfortunately. PCV valve is brand new and I'm using high mileage synthetic. Anything else to try before I pay the dealer $1600 to fix it? Any other parts I should have them replace while they are in there?

 

I think it's karma. 🤣

 

🤪

 

Timing belt and oil pump job done. Things were dry for a while, but just noticed today there's oil again. Looks like it's the rear main seal, unfortunately. PCV valve is brand new and I'm using high mileage synthetic. Anything else to try before I pay the dealer $1600 to fix it? Any other parts I should have them replace while they are in there?

 

How much oil is leaking? I'd rather add some oil than pay $1600 to fix it.

 

About a quart every 1,500 miles. I've been using Castrol GTX high mileage synthetic blend, but just changed to Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic today to see if that makes any difference (others have said changing to synthetic has slowed or even stopped the leak). I'm hopeful, but doubtful. My concern is the leak will get worse. If this isn't likely, then I would maybe be fine with continuing to add oil as I have been. Although I do plan on keeping the car for a while so I'd just assume get it fixed. Unless there's a chance of it happening again.

 

So did you find the root cause and fix all the leak after all? I just replaced a PCV valve and about to do those 4 O-rings in the YT video.

 

Yes, I did. I had multiple leaks. First was the rear valve cover, second was the oil pump, and third was the main rear seal, unfortunately. It's in the shop now for the main rear seal and after that things should be bone dry. I admittedly haven't been paying close enough attention to the PCV and it has never been replaced to my knowledge (at least not since I've owned it). I plan on cleaning it every couple oil changes from now.

 

Don’t know if you mentioned it but just curious what year and how many miles on your engine?

 

2011 SHAWD with 125k.

 

make sure the shop does the full job with resealing the rear plate along with replacing the rear main seal. Plate is part no 5 in the link below, the rear main seal sits in this:
https://acura.oempartsonline.com/v-2...-block-oil-pan

 

They actually replaced the rear plate. I asked why and they say because that's the part that popped up when they entered the job into whatever system they use. Whatever. All is good now.

 

I had an very minor oil leak in my 2014 tl 3.7.90k miles. Well maintained At first we changed oil filter housing gasket “spool “ it still had the leak. We then replaced oil pan gasket. It still had the leak. We then replaced the OIL PUMP SEAL. And while there also the CRANK and CAM seals. NO MORE LEAKS.
COST.
oil filter housing spool 130.00 parts and labor.
oil pan gasket 300.00 parts and labor.
oil pump seal and crank seal. And cam seals 1040.00 Parts and labor.
it was difficult to diagnose at first. But all good now.

 

No timing belt job while they were in there?

 

Also the timing belt was replaced about 5k miles ago. It was removed and replaced during the oil pump seal job. Also I must note I had oil splattered all over the oil pan an tranny. 99% your oil leak is coming from the OIL PUMP SEALS

 

hiiii I have a question I have the same oil leaks you had before you make the rear main seal and all the repairs. I also changed the timing belt kit with all the cam and crank shaft seals oil pump seals and oil filter housing seals and of course oil pan gasket with Honda bond gasket maker but I still have oil leak by the oil pan and transmission not as before but I still see oil in there. So my question is after you changed everything but before changing the rear main seal does the oil leak was by the oil pan and drain bolt and transmission or you just had it by the tranny and engine rear main seal check compartment? Thank you.

 

It looks like a mistake was made somewhere and some of the work was done with a defect. You need diagnostics, complete cleaning and careful monitoring of the source of the leak.

 

After your work was done you should have had the undercarriage steam cleaned and then see if you still have a leak. If you park car on driveway or in garage put cat litter down over old oil leaks. Then you will be able to tell if it’s still leaking or it’s just residual oil. If you still have a leak after oil pump seal and all other gaskets done. Then I would say the rear main seal may be suspect.

 

hiii thanks for the info. Yes I still have the oil leak but it doesn’t go to the floor you only can see the oil pan and tranny wet like fresh oil I also did clean with brake cleaner but it kind of weird because when I went underneath the car I see the oil coming down by the rear engine mount bracket. That area looks wet but I’m pretty sure the leaks is not from timing belt compartment no more. It was leaking from there but my mechanic says he was really sure it wasn’t leaking from the oil pump seal but I still changed . He did said that was leaking from the oil filter housing gasket. I’mma take some pictures of the leak.

 

In this picture the arrow number 2 showed that wet spot I have. But i don’t know why it’s wet there because that’s where the rear engine mount goes.

I see the oil coming from the top of the arrow showed in the picture. And that goes to the oil pan like it’s showed in the image.