Keyfob Stuck in Dash and Car Not Starting
Keyfob Stuck in Dash and Car Not Starting
Need some urgent help.. My Keyfob is stuck in the dash and the car is not starting.
I just drove about 15 miles to work, parked the car and switched it off. Then tried to start it again in like 2 mins, and it just wont start, the keyfob was out of the slot at the time. All the lights were blinking like crazy on the dash and even the interior lights are coming on but the car does not start. The no key light on the dash was also flashing so i put the keyfob in the slot and tried again.
Now the keyfob is stuck in the slot and the car is still no starting. To me it feels like the battery is drained out, but i dont know if that is possible since in the morning it started just fine and stopped working immediately after i switched the car off.
Also i dont know why the no key light would blink since the key was inside the car(Not in the slot but in my pocket very close to the slot) and now it is stuck solid in the slot. I tried to yank it out but it is stuck good.
Please help!!!
I just drove about 15 miles to work, parked the car and switched it off. Then tried to start it again in like 2 mins, and it just wont start, the keyfob was out of the slot at the time. All the lights were blinking like crazy on the dash and even the interior lights are coming on but the car does not start. The no key light on the dash was also flashing so i put the keyfob in the slot and tried again.
Now the keyfob is stuck in the slot and the car is still no starting. To me it feels like the battery is drained out, but i dont know if that is possible since in the morning it started just fine and stopped working immediately after i switched the car off.
Also i dont know why the no key light would blink since the key was inside the car(Not in the slot but in my pocket very close to the slot) and now it is stuck solid in the slot. I tried to yank it out but it is stuck good.
Please help!!!
sounds like a dead (or dying) battery in the fob
you're going to have to get it out somehow though...use another key or a slim screwdriver and try to wedge it out using the keyring hole that points outwards
you're going to have to get it out somehow though...use another key or a slim screwdriver and try to wedge it out using the keyring hole that points outwards
I will try to get the keyfob out somhow, just do not want to go too hard at it and damage the slot.
But wont the car start if the keyfob is in the slot - even with a dead keyfob battery.
Right now the car is not starting. When i press the start button some lights blink, the Press Break to Start message comes up and then everything goes dark. I have tried to press the button with and without the break peddle pressed but the result is the same. Lights blink and then go dark.
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I managed to get the keyfob free from its slot. Just pressed the start button a few times again and i hear something click in the slot, tried to pull it out and free it was....
The car is still not starting though, guess the main battery is dead... when i press the start button there is a lot of clicking and blinking and then everything goes dark.
I managed to get the keyfob free from its slot. Just pressed the start button a few times again and i hear something click in the slot, tried to pull it out and free it was....
The car is still not starting though, guess the main battery is dead... when i press the start button there is a lot of clicking and blinking and then everything goes dark.
Yup... will have a friend drive down with the jumper cable...
Will probably need to get a new battery soon.. any suggestions on what should be a good battery for a 2011 TL Tech??
I bought the car used, its got a little over 50k miles on the clock.. Is it normal for a battery to die at this age? I live in Atlanta and drive the car about 30 miles daily (i've had the car since March)
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I tried to jumpstart the car tonight but it still wont start.
There is a click but nothing after that, no engine sound. I left the jumper cables attached for about 30 mins but seems like the battery is not holding any charge at all.
I guess either the starter or alternator is not working. Please suggest what could be the most likely problem and how to get it fixed.
It was too late tonight to get the car towed anywhere so I have just left it in the parking lot, hope its still there in the morning...
I just crossed 50k miles on the car so I think warranty coverage is out of the question. I am thinking of getting it to a local mechanic nearby and let him figure it out. Or is it a better idea to have it towed to an Acura dealership?
I also noticed that it still keeps showing key not detected from time to time when I am trying to jump start it.
Wonder why that is and would that have anything to do with the car not starting.
Any suggestions would be greatly helpful.
There is a click but nothing after that, no engine sound. I left the jumper cables attached for about 30 mins but seems like the battery is not holding any charge at all.
I guess either the starter or alternator is not working. Please suggest what could be the most likely problem and how to get it fixed.
It was too late tonight to get the car towed anywhere so I have just left it in the parking lot, hope its still there in the morning...
I just crossed 50k miles on the car so I think warranty coverage is out of the question. I am thinking of getting it to a local mechanic nearby and let him figure it out. Or is it a better idea to have it towed to an Acura dealership?
I also noticed that it still keeps showing key not detected from time to time when I am trying to jump start it.
Wonder why that is and would that have anything to do with the car not starting.
Any suggestions would be greatly helpful.
I had similar symptoms with our 2010 ZDX. Car wouldn't start after driving a few miles. I tried jump starting also, no help. Had the car towed to my Acura dealer. Turned out to be a dead battery. Acura said there was a TSB for the battery and they replaced it for free. This all happened about a month ago. I would check with Acura to see if the battery is covered. Hope this helps.
I had similar symptoms with our 2010 ZDX. Car wouldn't start after driving a few miles. I tried jump starting also, no help. Had the car towed to my Acura dealer. Turned out to be a dead battery. Acura said there was a TSB for the battery and they replaced it for free. This all happened about a month ago. I would check with Acura to see if the battery is covered. Hope this helps.
I called the Acura Dealership here.. they say they the battery is not covered under warranty anymore because it is past 50k miles. I am going to buy a new battery from Costco and install it and hope it fixed the problem.
Last edited by yassir; Sep 6, 2014 at 10:56 AM.
well it was the battery... i plugged in a new one and the car started...
i wonder why the battery died all of a sudden like that though, just a bad battery or could it be an issue with the Alternator not charging the battery?
i wonder why the battery died all of a sudden like that though, just a bad battery or could it be an issue with the Alternator not charging the battery?
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Sometime it just happens that way and the batterybdoesnt give you any warning. You can go to your local auto parts place and see if they will check your charging system. Many will do it for free.
If your old battery had removable cell caps (usually two of them), then the idea is to remove the caps, and add/ top-up with water. My OEM Acura 09 RDX battery required adding water twice a year, because of the very hot summers here.
Even if the battery does *not* have removable caps, it is possible for the battery to loose enough water to short-out a cell anyway; it just depends upon the actual battery chemistry (type) and ambient operating conditions (eg., Phoenix or Washington state).
As for the best battery, I'm not sure there is such a thing. If you ask 5 people you'll probably get 5 different opinions. My opinion is to go with a Costco or Advance Auto Parts Autocraft Gold battery. I've had great luck with both and both can be had cheap. With the Advance Auto Parts one, their prices are crazy high, but you can use coupons online to get 35-40% off which usually makes them one of the cheaper options. You get a good warranty for a pretty reasonable price after the coupon. I've used more expensive batteries and never really seen much of a difference. I'd pretty much go with the cheapest and best warranty of the decent offerings from Costco, AAP, Walmart, Napa, etc.
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