rls61

I am looking in to getting a foam like Klima or the BG FrigiClean to try and eliminate the source of the mold/mildew smell coming from my vents. I have replaced the cabin filter with an OEM Acura and the smell is still there. Question is where do I spray this stuff. I couldn't find anything at all on the 4G. I have searched everywhere for a diagram of the EVAP system. I am afraid to spray the stuff in the center vent because of the climate control blend doors. I am assuming I would pull out the cabin filter and spray it in below the blower motor. I have just heard a lot of horror stories about frying the ECU on 3G's. Anyone have any experience with this problem with a 4G??

dcmodels

I suggest a similar product from GM, which has the consistency of water instead of a foam. The GM stuff will mist, and less likely to damage the ECU, yet coat the inside of the vent system. See thread link listed just below.

This is a valid concern. See post #7 of the following thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=896031

Carbon filter - see thread above.

rls61

Thanks DC, I ordered the GM Odor Eliminator Spray. I will try it out and see what happens...

rls61

I just ran to the carwash and sprayed the car off and when I turn the car back on to leave the smell is terrible. Any idea why this would be?? It has to be something with the fresh air duct I am assuming. Do you think this GM spray will actually work for this?? I need to find a way to kill this stuff. I cant seem t figure out why the smell would only occur when there is moisture ie snow melt, rain, car wash?? Any further advice.


I am still waiting on my GM spray and carbon cabin filter to get here. Thanks again for the help!

dcmodels

WET Mold - the TSB I posted states what the GM spray will kill, and also gives explicit instructions on remediating all problems with odors. Read it carefully.

If the mold is quite bad on the AC evaporator, GM also makes another more toxic spray, which is more effort to apply - basically its to be applied by the dealer, but can be done by a DIYer if you have the FSM (factory service manual), and are willing to make the effort (a lot of effort). You can find simlar products online complete w/ instructions - but again, they can be *toxic* and in my opinion, should only be used as a last resort.

fsttyms1

I have had good luck in the past on other cars spraying the stuff in the intake area of the Hvac and let the system pull it in and cycling all the way thru all of the hvac system, not just one area

thegoodlife

Were do u spray it on 4g tl ? Intake ?

Reorge

If it has not been mentioned yet, if you remove the cabin filter this liquid can be sprayed directly on the evaporator. I might even try spraying a small about of bleach on it.

HenryNYC

iTrader: (3)

As a preventive measure if you run the AC or in AUTO mode all the time. Consider shutting down the compressor (AC off but FAN on) a few minutes before reaching destination to clear out the system. I did that from day one and thus far no mildew/moldy stink from the vents.

Mr Marco

This^ Save your AC cooling fins by simply hitting the AC on/off button 1/4 mile before you get to your destination. It is an easy habit to get into. Simply pick a spot on your way home that will remind you to push that button. If you have a garage like me its a must, as the moisture will not dry out in the sun outside.

rls61

Ok quick update, the GM odor eliminator didn't do anything for the smell. At the same time, I also put in a carbon charged cabin filter. I hardly notice any difference at all. I will be purchasing either the BG Frigi Clean or the Klima-Cleaner. Does anyone have any experience with either of these products? Also as far as application goes, should I go down through the center vent, or up through the evap drain??

dcmodels

Really? you did not read the links I provided above, about all the people who fried the ECU using that stuff? try search for more info.

If that is your question, perhaps you did not read the link which describes how to apply the GM stuff, which may explain why it did not *work*.

rls61

Actually, I have read all of your links and applied the GM 8189446 just like the link to the bulletin described. If you own a 4th Gen TL, you know the cowl intake only has openings on the drivers side, and I don't think the spray made its way to the evaporator. I took out the cabin filter and even put about 5 sprays right in to the blower motor, as well as spraying the passenger foot well area in recirc mode.


I have tried searching, and have not come up with anything about using this stuff on a 4th gen TL. The people that fried ECUs were all 3rd gen threads. If you can find a thread, I'd be glad to take a look at it. Here is a video I found in the Accord forums for 8th Gen.

dcmodels

Quote:

Originally Posted by rls61

... I have tried searching, and have not come up with anything about using this stuff [ed: GM odor eliminator] on a 4th gen TL. The people that fried ECUs were all 3rd gen threads.

Well, I will state a few obvious points, but they may not really help you. Sorry, the following is the best I can do.

Not even all GM HVAC systems are the same, so the GM TSB is somewhat generic. The A/C evaporator on my Chevy truck is right under the cowl intake (under the hood). But on my RDX the evaporator in buried in the center of the dash, inside the car. I assume the gen-4 TL is similar.

And that is why the gen-3 TLs have a problem, because the ECU is right under the A/C evaporator, in the center of the dash. No idea where the gen-4 TL ECU is located, but the RDX ECU is under the hood.

So, you did not specifically state that you sprayed the GM odor eliminator into the inside center and side HVAC vents of your TL. Certainly, spraying a lot of liquid into the inside center vent of a gen-3 TL causes the ECU, which is right under, to short-out.

If you are convinced that your gen-4 TL odor problem is really the A/C evaporator, and if the ECU (engine control unit) is right below the evaporator, then cleaning/ deodorizing the evaporator is going to be a real problem for you. First, getting any cleaner onto the evaporator face, and secondly, preventing damage to any electrical components under the center of the dash. While the RDX ECU is under the hood, the HVAC electrical controls are all under the dash.

So, it really does not matter which deodorizer you use – the problem is the same. I could suggest some stronger cleaners/ deodorizers, but in general, a really strong product is simply not required – if you can get the product directly onto the evaporator.
================

If you have access to the FSM (factory service manual) for your TL, then you would want to determine just what is under the dash – and the exact location of the A/C evaporator, and any electrical components.

Verify that the A/C drain is not plugged – you probably already did that. But a plugged drain would allow a lot of water, and mold, to accumulate on the evaporator. On the gen-3 TL a plugged drain has actually shorted out the ECU, because of water level build-up.

If you cannot gain direct access to the evaporator core, then its either pull the dash and clean it, or –

The only other idea I can suggest is this. On the hottest day of the summer, put the car inside the garage (door open). Start the engine. Put the HVAC into recirculation mode. Turn off the A/C and turn on the heater and blower on high. Allow to idle for 20 – 30 minutes. Every 5 minutes spray deodorizer into the recirc-HVAC intake, as indicated in the GM TSB. Oh, keep the car doors and windows closed.

Do not allow the engine to overheat – so it may be necessary to do this outdoors. And even if the car is inside the garage, keep the main garage door open.

Where I live the temp inside the car hits 130 degrees, just by being parked in the sun. You might check the temp inside your TL while performing the above, and don’t allow the temp to go above 150 degrees (inside the car). There is a small risk of damage to the dash or other plastic interior parts.

The above procedure is basically what GM recommends for severe mold, after spraying using a rather toxic chemical on the evaporator core. And the idea is to *kill* any mold.

HOWEVER, read my next post for more specific information on this procedure.

dcmodels

The suggestion above to run the blower with the A/C off for a few minutes before stopping the car, is a good one. GM actually makes an add-on device to do this after the engine is turned off – see below.

And here is another GM TSB for dealing with severe mold on the A/C evaporator – don’t know that it will really help you, but it is interesting.

INFORMATION
A/C - Odors In Hot/Humid Conditions
Bulletin No.: 99-01-39-004B
Date: May 29, 2007
Subject: Air Conditioning Odor (Install Evaporator Core Dryer Kit and Apply Cooling Coil Coating)

Models: All Equipped with Air Conditioning
1993-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn)
2008 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
Supersede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the vehicle applications, model years, correction procedure, parts information and tool numbers. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004A (Section 01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment about musty odors emitted from the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system at vehicle start-up in hot, humid conditions.
Cause
This condition may be caused by condensate build-up on the evaporator core, which does not evaporate by itself in high humidity conditions. The odor may be the result of microbial growth on the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an unpleasant musty odor into the passenger compartment.
There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water leak into the interior of the vehicle or foreign material in the HVAC air distribution system. Follow the procedures in SI for identifying and correcting water leaks and air inlet inspection.
The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the odor source has been determined to be microbial growth on the evaporator core inside the HVAC module.
Correction
Many vehicles currently incorporate an afterblow function within the HVAC control module software. The afterblow feature, when enabled, employs the HVAC blower fan to dry the evaporator after vehicle shut down and this function will inhibit microbial growth. Technicians are to confirm that the customer concern is evaporator core odor and that the vehicle has the imbedded afterblow feature, as defined in the SI document for that specific vehicle model, model year and specific HVAC option. Refer to SI for enabling the afterblow function. Vehicles being delivered in areas prone to high humidity conditions may benefit from having the afterblow enabled calibration installed prior to any customer comment.
If the vehicle is not factory equipped with the imbedded afterblow enable feature, it may be added with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit (P/N 12497910 or AC Delco 15-5876).
When installing the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module, you MUST use the included electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice. Complete detailed installation instructions and self testing procedures are supplied with the kit. If necessary, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module may be installed underhood if it is protected from extreme heat and water splash areas.
To immediately remove the evaporator core odor on all suspect vehicles, it is necessary to eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its re-occurrence. To accomplish this, perform the following procedure:
Vehicle and Applicator Tool Preparation
The evaporator core must be dry . This may be accomplished by disabling the compressor and running the blower fan on the recirc heat setting for an extended period of time.
Note: Compressor engagement will cause the evaporator core to remain wet and will prevent full adherence of the Coiling Coil Coating to the evaporator core surfaces.
Verify that the air conditioning drain hose is not clogged and place a drain pan beneath the vehicle. Place a protective cover over the carpet below the evaporator core.
Remove the cabin air filter, if equipped, and cover the opening prior to applying the Cooling Coil Coating, as the product may clog the filter. If the cabin air filter appears to have little or no remaining life, suggest a replacement to your customer.
If the HVAC module has a blower motor cooling tube, be careful NOT TO SPRAY THE COOLING COIL COATING INTO THE BLOWER MOTOR COOLING TUBE.
Attach the Flexible Applicator Pressure Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) to a compressed air line operating at 586 kPa (85 psi) to 793 kPa (115 psi).
Shake the bottle of Cooling Coil Coating well. Screw the bottle onto the cap on the applicator tools pick-up tube.
NOTE: The pick-up tube is designed for 120 ml (4 oz) and 240 ml (8 oz) bottles and should coil slightly in the bottom of a 120 ml (4 oz) bottle.
Use one of the following three methods to apply the Cooling Coil Coating.
If the Pressure Applicator Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) is not available, the Cooling Coil Coating is also available in an aerosol can (P/N 12377951 (in Canada, 10953503)).
Application Through Blower Motor Control Module Opening
Remove the blower motor control module (blower motor resistor). Refer to the applicable procedure in SI.
Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core surface.
Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor blower motor control module (blower motor resistor) opening.
Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and surrounding gasket surfaces.
When the application is complete, install the blower motor blower motor control module (blower motor control module).
Application Through Blower Motor Opening
Remove the blower motor. Refer to the applicable blower motor removal procedure in SI.
Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core surface.
Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor opening.
Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and surrounding gasket surfaces.
When the application is complete, install the blower motor.
Application Through a Hole in the HVAC Module
If neither of the two previous application methods are available, it may be necessary to drill a hole in the HVAC module.
Locate an area of the HVAC module between the blower motor and the evaporator core. Drill a 10 mm (3/8 in) hole in the HVAC module. Use caution to keep the drill clear of the evaporator core and the blower motor fan.
With the air distribution vents closed and the blower motor fan speed on HIGH, insert the applicator tool into the hole and spray the Cooling Coil Coating into the airstream toward the evaporator core.
Use a GM approved RTV sealant to plug the hole in the HVAC module.
After the Cooling Coil Coating application is complete, start and run the vehicle for approximately 10 minutes, with the compressor disabled, HVAC mode set to Recirculate/Max, heat set to full warm, blower motor fan speed on high, and one window open approximately 12 mm (1/2 in). This cures the Cooling Coil Coating onto the evaporator core surface.
While the engine is running, rinse the applicator tool with warm water to prolong the life of the tool. Be sure to spray warm water through the nozzle to rinse out any residual Cooling Coil Coating still in the capillary pick up tube, otherwise it will dry and clog the applicator tool. Also remove the small green valve from the bottle cap and rinse it thoroughly while rolling it between two fingers and then reinstall it. If this valve is clogged the Cooling Coil Coating will not flow through the applicator tool.
Shut off the engine and enable the compressor again.
Verify proper HVAC system operation.
Remove the protective cover from inside the vehicle.
Remove the drain pan from underneath the vehicle.
Reinstall the cabin air filter if necessary.

---eof

RYANJR1

Has anyone had acura fix this?