Engine Oil Consumption - Short-block No Fix

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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 10:52 AM
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Engine Oil Consumption - Short-block No Fix

3.7 L Acura engines and Nikasil plating. Nikasil can handle high temperatures, nevertheless is a more abrasive material. My opinion is that the piston rings used in the 3.7 L Engine are not the best match for the Nikasil lining and because of this compatibility issue, oil consumption occurs. In this case the piston rings worn faster than normal. (Sanding effect on the piston rings).

Nikasil cyclinders have a higher Rockwell hardness rating than cast iron and by design are oleophilic (Having a strong affinity for oil). Both of these factors contribute significantly to engine life and wear issues.

Analyzing the problem, replacing the short block might not resolve the issue if the same Nikasil lining is used or piston rings alloy is not matched.

Conclusion: Acura is dragging their feet for a long time, because this is hard to fix!! (Short-block replacement is a temporary fix at best!!)

Last edited by mylove4cars; Feb 3, 2015 at 10:57 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 11:57 AM
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I would assume if my car was burning oil prematurely it would give me a low oil light, right ?
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverJ
I would assume if my car was burning oil prematurely it would give me a low oil light, right ?
No it will not, check your dipstick on a regular base if you want to be on the safe side.


When the light comes on, you might have only 25% oil left in the engine, damage might have occurred at that point.
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 12:32 PM
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ticking time bombs!
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 01:20 PM
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This is the first I've heard that our 3.7 blocks have Nikasil liners. Is there information you can link to where I can read about this?
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Reorge
This is the first I've heard that our 3.7 blocks have Nikasil liners. Is there information you can link to where I can read about this?
Got the info from the manufactory. Besides Nikasil and the 3.7 L engine is known here on the forum. Many threads, here is one https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-784028/page2/
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 03:20 PM
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I'm fairly certain our blocks don't have Nikasil liners. I have not see any published Acura data stating the use of Nikasil. See attached: How the 3.7L block was developed. Nikasil is a plating process and our blocks are high silicon Silitec and then surfaced etched to remove the soft aluminum.

I agree. I'm not sure a new shortblock, unless it has had any design/manufacturing defects corrected, will be any better.

While I agree that the aluminum liner is highly suspect there are other engines that have oil burning issues. For one, the 2008 Honda Odyssey (V6 with iron liner & VCM) has had the warranty extended for oil burning. Both my ex-wife and father have each received their extension letters in the mail. I have not see any published data on what has caused this particular issue.
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Reorge
I'm fairly certain our blocks don't have Nikasil liners. I have not see any published Acura data stating the use of Nikasil. See attached: How the 3.7L block was developed. Nikasil is a plating process and our blocks are high silicon Silitec and then surfaced etched to remove the soft aluminum.

I agree. I'm not sure a new shortblock, unless it has had any design/manufacturing defects corrected, will be any better.

While I agree that the aluminum liner is highly suspect there are other engines that have oil burning issues. For one, the 2008 Honda Odyssey (V6 with iron liner & VCM) has had the warranty extended for oil burning. Both my ex-wife and father have each received their extension letters in the mail. I have not see any published data on what has caused this particular issue.
This might be so that Silitec is used and then surfaced and etched, nevertheless a Nikasil plating process is still possible. I cannot find public info on this either. I can only state what the manufactory told me.


The 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD® cylinder liners are made of high-silicon aluminum and are cast directly into the aluminum block. The hard piston ring sealing surface of the liners is created during manufacturing with a mechanical etching process that exposes silicon particles embedded in the sleeves.


In this case Nikasil would be good if the piston rings are compatible.


Example: Bore coating with Nikasil is actually a good approach. The integral cast cylinder walls and deck surface provide the most efficient structural arrangement and give the best heat transfer at the upper end of the cylinder bore where it is most critical. The silicon nitride ceramic particles at the wear surface of the cylinder bore are extremely hard, and much harder than chrome or hardened steel.


After the Nikasil coating is finished honed, the nickle matrix surrounding the silicon nitride particles is a few micro-inches below the surface of the ceramic particles, and this results in a very thin layer of lube oil being trapped in the space between the ceramic particles. It creates the ideal conditions for boundary lubrication of the piston ring contact surfaces.


Again piston rings alloy need to be compatible otherwise (sandpaper effect will occur).
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Old Feb 4, 2015 | 11:45 AM
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Mine was going through a quart per thousand miles, and the dealership said they only will fix something if it's over a quart and a half per thousand. And this was still under the CPO warranty. One of the many reasons I dumped it.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 05:59 AM
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Before "dumping" the car, I suggest a change in viscosity.

In researching this engine, I found 0w-30 and 0w-40 are the recommended viscosities in the UK, Germany, Scandanavia, and Australia. My own TL was using 1 qt / 2k miles. So far with this oil change of Castrol Edge 0w-40 the rate of consumption appears to have decreased to 1 qt / 6k. Still an early experiment, but promising. No changes noted in fuel economy or engine smoothness or performance.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 07:54 AM
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Dont spread crap... there is NOTHING wrong with nikasil unless it was applied incorrectly. And there is NOTHING wrong with the j series engines.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Schu
Dont spread crap... there is NOTHING wrong with nikasil unless it was applied incorrectly. And there is NOTHING wrong with the j series engines.
All the members on this forum with oil problems are spreading crap, is that what you're saying? So in your infinite wisdom if there is nothing wrong, why are they complaining? In case that's not what you're saying, be more clear and enlighten us; what is the problem of high oil-consumption and leading to short-block replacements by Acura??

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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Lieutenant
Before "dumping" the car, I suggest a change in viscosity.

In researching this engine, I found 0w-30 and 0w-40 are the recommended viscosities in the UK, Germany, Scandanavia, and Australia. My own TL was using 1 qt / 2k miles. So far with this oil change of Castrol Edge 0w-40 the rate of consumption appears to have decreased to 1 qt / 6k. Still an early experiment, but promising. No changes noted in fuel economy or engine smoothness or performance.
In the US, Acura is recommending 0W viscosity oil now for most of its engines, EXCEPT the 3.7 in the SH-AWD TLs, for which they continue to recommend 5W-20.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 12:03 PM
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I wonder if oil consumption problem is a result of poor workmanship during assembly.
Since every assembly step is not inspected, it could be very easy for an assembly line worker to get something wrong, and it not be discovered until the owner does. Image how simple it could be to not get a piston ring gap rotated and stagered relative to the other 2 rings properly. If no one inspects this work before the piston is installed in the bore, the result will be a very unhappy customer who is burning lots of oil.
Now imagine how often this could happen if the person doing the assembly work is disgruntaled and wants Acura "to pay" for some personal beef. Don't think this doesn't happen. I work in a high tech industry and we discover mistakes that are so hard to get wrong, the assembler could only have meant to do it wrong. The "screw-ups" that are found are expensive to corrrect. I try not to think about that when I fly somewhere.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JM2010 SH-AWD
In the US, Acura is recommending 0W viscosity oil now for most of its engines, EXCEPT the 3.7 in the SH-AWD TLs, for which they continue to recommend 5W-20.
I know this. My suggestion to try a different viscosity is based on the fact that the SAME 3.7L engine which calls for 5w-20 in North America calls for 0w-30 or 0w-40 in other parts of the world with similar climates and driving styles. Thus unlikely to cause any problems.

So far this limited experiment has resulted in a substantial decrease in oil consumption. Jus' sayin.....
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Schu
Dont spread crap... there is NOTHING wrong with nikasil unless it was applied incorrectly. And there is NOTHING wrong with the j series engines.
Oh yes. There is definitely something wrong with the Honda J-series 3.7L-V6 that tends to BURN excessive engine oil.

There are many threads in this 4G TL forum, highlighting this oil burning problem.

The other family members of the J-series V6 are all good, because they hardly consume even a single drop of engine oil, which is typical of all good Honda automobile engines.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Lieutenant
I know this. My suggestion to try a different viscosity is based on the fact that the SAME 3.7L engine which calls for 5w-20 in North America calls for 0w-30 or 0w-40 in other parts of the world with similar climates and driving styles. Thus unlikely to cause any problems.

So far this limited experiment has resulted in a substantial decrease in oil consumption. Jus' sayin.....
This might be the same engine, nevertheless many more variables come in to play; for example the mapping of the engine control unit, which in turn retards the ignition timing etc. Overseas gasoline is different than in the US (regulations are not the same) It's like saying the Chevrolet Corvette 6.2 l V8 is the same engine as in the Hummer H2 which is basically correct, hence the Hummer H2 5W-30 - Corvette 0w-40 this engine is used in many more GM products with different specs of maintenance and liquids. There is a reason the manufactory specifies 0W-20 and 5W-20 for the 3.7 L

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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 08:43 PM
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Would a fresh set of plugs and a valve lash adjustment do the trick? At least this is my experience after the major "timing belt" service. Oil at 30% now and still in the middle of the dipstick. Before the fresh plugs etc it wasn't even registering on the dipstick at 30%, that bad.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mylove4cars
This might be the same engine, nevertheless many more variables come in to play; for example the mapping of the engine control unit, which in turn retards the ignition timing etc. Overseas gasoline is different than in the US (regulations are not the same) It's like saying the Chevrolet Corvette 6.2 l V8 is the same engine as in the Hummer H2 which is basically correct, hence the Hummer H2 5W-30 - Corvette 0w-40 this engine is used in many more GM products with different specs of maintenance and liquids. There is a reason the manufactory specifies 0W-20 and 5W-20 for the 3.7 L
I am doing this experiment on my own recognizing that I am not following Acura NA recommendations. This engine, in all parts of the world, has the same HP and torque output. It is used in Honda Legends, which are Acura TL's here. I don't think your analogy is valid. Not suggesting anyone use anything they are uncomfortable with. Bottom line, so far, is consumption is down to 1qt/6k.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Edward'TLS
Oh yes. There is definitely something wrong with the Honda J-series 3.7L-V6 that tends to BURN excessive engine oil.

There are many threads in this 4G TL forum, highlighting this oil burning problem.

The other family members of the J-series V6 are all good, because they hardly consume even a single drop of engine oil, which is typical of all good Honda automobile engines.
The 3.7L in the MDX from 2007-2010 experienced none of these issues! It's the newer 3.7L AND 3.5L with Variable Cylinder Management and as well the ones with the Silicon Liners that are experiencing consumption issues. It's not all J37 engines just these:
J35A7, J35Z2, J35Z3, J35Z4, J37A4 (TL SHAWD), and J37A5 (ZDX)

Some of these engines have VCM, others have earth dreams technology, etc.



Originally Posted by 1Lieutenant
I know this. My suggestion to try a different viscosity is based on the fact that the SAME 3.7L engine which calls for 5w-20 in North America calls for 0w-30 or 0w-40 in other parts of the world with similar climates and driving styles. Thus unlikely to cause any problems.

So far this limited experiment has resulted in a substantial decrease in oil consumption. Jus' sayin.....
This is a very good sign! I would suggest using 5W-30 or 5W-40. I've noticed vehicles that burn oil tend to burn more when the oil is 0W vs 5W. IT might help lower consumption over time. Also High Mileage Oils are on the higher end of their weights so that'll help too.

Have you checked the PCV at all? Perhaps replacing this might stop it completely.

Originally Posted by Tonyware
Would a fresh set of plugs and a valve lash adjustment do the trick? At least this is my experience after the major "timing belt" service. Oil at 30% now and still in the middle of the dipstick. Before the fresh plugs etc it wasn't even registering on the dipstick at 30%, that bad.
I highly doubt it since you aren't really loosing oil from the plugs or the valves. If the valve stem seals were bad you'd see smoke coming from the exhaust after idling for long periods of time after the engine is warmed up.

30% means the lubrication property of the oil! NOt the amount left in the engine!!!!
That stick should always be above the min mark! Switch to a heavier oil like 5W-30 Mobil 1 High Mileage (comes in gold cap 5qt container). Also check your PCV valve!
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tonyware
Would a fresh set of plugs and a valve lash adjustment do the trick? At least this is my experience after the major "timing belt" service. Oil at 30% now and still in the middle of the dipstick. Before the fresh plugs etc it wasn't even registering on the dipstick at 30%, that bad.
I doubt that excessive oil use (.5 to 1 quart every 1000 miles) would be a valve issue, in case the valve train would be the issue of consuming such a large amount of oil, other damage would occur before, which would bring your engine to a stop.


The 3.7-liter engine has a unique multi-arm VTEC rocker arm system for the exhaust valves. Both exhaust valves follow a single low-lift, short-duration cam profile at low engine rpm. As engine rpm rise, pressurized oil (controlled by the PCM) activates small pistons that lock the exhaust valve rocker to a corresponding high-speed rocker arm, which then follows a single high-lift, long-duration cam lobe.


On the 3.7-liter engine, the transition to high-lift mode occurs at 4,700 rpm, where intake valve lift increases 28-percent and exhaust valve lift increases 10-percent. Valve opening duration increases 35-percent on the intake side and 11-percent on the exhaust side, increasing valve overlap by 47-percent over the intake-only VTEC® system. The 3.7L V-6's VTEC® system provides further improved power and torque, even lower emissions and better fuel efficiency.


This a very well controlled system, not saying that a valve train could not contribute to oil consumption, not to the extend mentioned by some of the members.


Happy for you that you are having so much improvement.
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 09:48 PM
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I'll ask the dealer tech guy I know, next time I am around that area if they have noticed that too.

In the meantime I am looking for an explanation about this and can't think of anything... except perhaps something has changed with the Acura oil lately and nobody was told? Doubt it, but you never know.

Your comment about the engine mapping, the control unit etc made me think that perhaps a better valve behavior and a fresh set of spark plugs perhaps minimized some unknown cause that so far has no concrete explanation. Some say its the rings, others say its the oil itself, others say its the heads.. go figure!

Last edited by Tonyware; Feb 9, 2015 at 09:53 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Lieutenant
I am doing this experiment on my own recognizing that I am not following Acura NA recommendations. This engine, in all parts of the world, has the same HP and torque output. It is used in Honda Legends, which are Acura TL's here. I don't think your analogy is valid. Not suggesting anyone use anything they are uncomfortable with. Bottom line, so far, is consumption is down to 1qt/6k.
I understand that you are experimenting on your own risk. Nevertheless about all engines, yes they might be the same, what I'm saying is that the configuration is different. Example: About 85% of the oil consumption problem is with the SH-AWD MT! Besides, the MT's mapping is different etc!!
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 10:26 AM
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Just curious... wondering if driving habits contributes to oil consumption.

I can be wrong but from my limited observations, it seems that the oil consumption issue is affecting more 6MT owners vs auto owners. I own a 6AT and I don't baby the car as I like to drive every now and then but at the same time, I don't rev the piss out of the engine either. Sadly, I will admit that I am rarely at RPMs where vtec will kick in and I do not have oil consumption issues at this point... knock on wood. I am not implying that 6MT owners are revving the piss out of their cars but I would imagine they would have more "fun" with their cars and reach into the higher rpms more often.

EDIT: Regardless of the driving habits, I am certainly not saying this is justified in anyway.

Last edited by C8N; Feb 10, 2015 at 10:29 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mylove4cars
This might be the same engine, nevertheless many more variables come in to play; for example the mapping of the engine control unit, which in turn retards the ignition timing etc. Overseas gasoline is different than in the US (regulations are not the same) It's like saying the Chevrolet Corvette 6.2 l V8 is the same engine as in the Hummer H2 which is basically correct, hence the Hummer H2 5W-30 - Corvette 0w-40 this engine is used in many more GM products with different specs of maintenance and liquids. There is a reason the manufactory specifies 0W-20 and 5W-20 for the 3.7 L
You raise an interesting point; could the issue be tied to the gasoline itself? I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the problems with Nikasil is that low-grade gasoline will eat away at the Nikasil lining over time. While I assume most of the people here driving 4G's are willing to spend for quality gas, does anyone really know the sulphur content of the gas they buy?

If the issue were tied to gasoline, that might be one explanation for why the buring issue affects some, but not others (I've been lucky enough not to have seen a problem).
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sockpuppet
You raise an interesting point; could the issue be tied to the gasoline itself? I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the problems with Nikasil is that low-grade gasoline will eat away at the Nikasil lining over time. While I assume most of the people here driving 4G's are willing to spend for quality gas, does anyone really know the sulphur content of the gas they buy?

If the issue were tied to gasoline, that might be one explanation for why the buring issue affects some, but not others (I've been lucky enough not to have seen a problem).
Before 2004 yes, to much sulfur in gasoline; some BMW had problems with Nikasil lining crystalizing because of the high sulfur content . Today the gasoline should be fine. For the 3.7 TL 91 and up.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Tonyware
I'll ask the dealer tech guy I know, next time I am around that area if they have noticed that too.

In the meantime I am looking for an explanation about this and can't think of anything... except perhaps something has changed with the Acura oil lately and nobody was told? Doubt it, but you never know.

Your comment about the engine mapping, the control unit etc made me think that perhaps a better valve behavior and a fresh set of spark plugs perhaps minimized some unknown cause that so far has no concrete explanation. Some say its the rings, others say its the oil itself, others say its the heads.. go figure!
I believe, excessive oil consumption is related to the piston rings.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by C8N
Just curious... wondering if driving habits contributes to oil consumption.

I can be wrong but from my limited observations, it seems that the oil consumption issue is affecting more 6MT owners vs auto owners. I own a 6AT and I don't baby the car as I like to drive every now and then but at the same time, I don't rev the piss out of the engine either. Sadly, I will admit that I am rarely at RPMs where vtec will kick in and I do not have oil consumption issues at this point... knock on wood. I am not implying that 6MT owners are revving the piss out of their cars but I would imagine they would have more "fun" with their cars and reach into the higher rpms more often.

EDIT: Regardless of the driving habits, I am certainly not saying this is justified in anyway.
Sure, driving habits might influence oil consumption. Track the car at 10/10 for some hours. You better change the oil ASAP. Maybe a quart or 2 might be burned or evaporated (NOACK).

Last edited by mylove4cars; Feb 10, 2015 at 10:07 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Lieutenant
Before "dumping" the car, I suggest a change in viscosity.

In researching this engine, I found 0w-30 and 0w-40 are the recommended viscosities in the UK, Germany, Scandanavia, and Australia. My own TL was using 1 qt / 2k miles. So far with this oil change of Castrol Edge 0w-40 the rate of consumption appears to have decreased to 1 qt / 6k. Still an early experiment, but promising. No changes noted in fuel economy or engine smoothness or performance.
Interesting. Have others tried 0W-40 oil with similar results? I've been using Mobil 5W-20, and am open to using other oil types if it will help with oil consumption.

Originally Posted by Schu
Dont spread crap... there is NOTHING wrong with nikasil unless it was applied incorrectly. And there is NOTHING wrong with the j series engines.
This is certainly no "crap." MY 2010 TL 6MT has burning oil at rate of >1QT/1,000 miles, and has gotten worse since my mileage exceeded 45,000 miles.
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by docboy
Interesting. Have others tried 0W-40 oil with similar results? I've been using Mobil 5W-20, and am open to using other oil types if it will help with oil consumption.



This is certainly no "crap." MY 2010 TL 6MT has burning oil at rate of >1QT/1,000 miles, and has gotten worse since my mileage exceeded 45,000 miles.
Example: Mobil 1 European formula 0W-40 is used in a lot of high performance vehicles as a manufactory standard, Porches, Lambo's, Nissan GT-R and the likes; is recommended for Turbo engines generating a lot of heat. Sheer rate (HTHS) is high I believe a 3.8 which is good. Nevertheless, warranty from Acura will be void.
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mylove4cars
Example: Mobil 1 European formula 0W-40 is used in a lot of high performance vehicles as a manufactory standard, Porches, Lambo's, Nissan GT-R and the likes; is recommended for Turbo engines generating a lot of heat. Sheer rate (HTHS) is high I believe a 3.8 which is good. Nevertheless, warranty from Acura will be void.
Not necessarily true. Acura would have to show that the oil viscosity resulted in the required warranty repair.
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Lieutenant
Not necessarily true. Acura would have to show that the oil viscosity resulted in the required warranty repair.
I understand that you try to resolve a problem and maybe with success, which is a good thing; not so good is your statement about the warranty. Don't make this type of comments, some others reading your post might getting in to problems with the warranty in case they follow you're advice.


Don't give Acura a stick to beat us further; it's difficult enough fighting them on their warranty obligations.


Read the manual:


Always use a premium-grade 5W-20 (2011 SH-AWD)


detergent oil displaying the API


Certification Seal. This seal indicates


the oil is energy conserving, and that


it meets the American Petroleum


Institute’s latest requirements.


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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Lieutenant
Before "dumping" the car, I suggest a change in viscosity.

In researching this engine, I found 0w-30 and 0w-40 are the recommended viscosities in the UK, Germany, Scandanavia, and Australia. My own TL was using 1 qt / 2k miles. So far with this oil change of Castrol Edge 0w-40 the rate of consumption appears to have decreased to 1 qt / 6k. Still an early experiment, but promising. No changes noted in fuel economy or engine smoothness or performance.
where r u ???
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Old Dec 18, 2018 | 10:02 AM
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1
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From: Rosmere Quebec
to all, as of November 2018, Acura has admitted the excessive oil consumption issue, and have issued a letter to all owners, got mine last week.
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Old Dec 18, 2018 | 02:40 PM
  #35  
mrphilipanderson's Avatar
Pro
 
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 687
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Originally Posted by buttnin
to all, as of November 2018, Acura has admitted the excessive oil consumption issue, and have issued a letter to all owners, got mine last week.
Are you in the USA?
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Old Dec 22, 2018 | 11:36 AM
  #36  
JM2010 SH-AWD's Avatar
Drifting
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,394
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From: St. Louis, MO
I have not received such a letter nor have I yet read/heard of anyone in the US getting one. I do understand that Acura Canada has sent such a letter extending warranties to 3.7L owners.
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