Electrical Warranty
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Electrical Warranty
Possible problem: I had this guy replace my driver side courtesy light (light below the door) with a led bulb. The guy replaced the light while it was still on so I believe it messed something up because the light won’t turn on anymore. I placed a new bulb, which still doesn’t work. I swapped out the housing (bulb holder) with the passenger side and it works so it must have fried something. A local mechanic checked the entire fuse and said their all good.
Dilemma: I took it to an Acura dealer and the service guy saw several wires tapped into the fuse box. These wire could be from my carbine car alarm upgrade, pyle lcd monitor system, garmin hardwire, or pioneer rear view cam or maybe all of them. I did not do the install so I’m not sure.
Short term memory loss: I’m not sure when that courtesy light went off. From the time of my many electronic mod till the led upgrade, but I’m 80% sure it’s right after the led attempt.
Currently Screwed: The technician from the dealer will not diagnose my car since there are several wires tapped into the fuse box and said it voided my electrical warranty. The sales/service guy suggests that I take all the mod wires out and come back for a $125+ diagnose fee. If the diagnose finds that the problem is within warranty then they will fix it, if it was cause by aftermarket wire then they will charge me.
Suggestion: Anybody have any suggestions on what I can do or is there anyway around this warranty void issue? Thanks.
Dilemma: I took it to an Acura dealer and the service guy saw several wires tapped into the fuse box. These wire could be from my carbine car alarm upgrade, pyle lcd monitor system, garmin hardwire, or pioneer rear view cam or maybe all of them. I did not do the install so I’m not sure.
Short term memory loss: I’m not sure when that courtesy light went off. From the time of my many electronic mod till the led upgrade, but I’m 80% sure it’s right after the led attempt.
Currently Screwed: The technician from the dealer will not diagnose my car since there are several wires tapped into the fuse box and said it voided my electrical warranty. The sales/service guy suggests that I take all the mod wires out and come back for a $125+ diagnose fee. If the diagnose finds that the problem is within warranty then they will fix it, if it was cause by aftermarket wire then they will charge me.
Suggestion: Anybody have any suggestions on what I can do or is there anyway around this warranty void issue? Thanks.
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2010 Acura TL 3.5 Basic Automatic under 1k miles.
Technician at the Dealer is refusing to diagnose the car since he saw several wires tapped into the multiplex. If the multiplex is messed up and so far only the driver side courtesy light is out, will the car be ok if I just left it as that? If I don’t fix it, will it get worst?
Technician at the Dealer is refusing to diagnose the car since he saw several wires tapped into the multiplex. If the multiplex is messed up and so far only the driver side courtesy light is out, will the car be ok if I just left it as that? If I don’t fix it, will it get worst?
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. Will the problem get worst if I don’t fix it? It’s just a courtesy light, but then again I’m no electrician.
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I think the installer was lazy and did it the easy way possible. I'm going to ask them if they can redo it correctly without touching the multiplex this Friday. Hopefully they won’t charge me . Will the problem get worst if I don’t fix it? It’s just a courtesy light, but then again I’m no electrician.
. Will the problem get worst if I don’t fix it? It’s just a courtesy light, but then again I’m no electrician.Modern cars are equipped with a fairly sophisticated electrical system that is quite sensitive to a lot of factors, including load imbalance and induced currents. Thus, for example, typically interior lights are controlled by a "comfort and light" controller and even the switches are no longer switches but rather keys (as in a keyboard) sending packets of information to the appropriate controller via the CAN (Central Area Network). I do not know for sure that this is the case for the TL, but it certainly applies to many modern cars I have worked on, such as the Volkswagen Phaeton.
Consequently, there are only two ways of doing electrical mods to a modern car:
1) don't do it! this is the recommended way
.2) if you still want to do it, it must be done very systematically and methodically by someone who knows what s/he is doing
: typically you study the electrical circuits in the service manual, compute to the total electrical load on the circuit you intend to alter, then project the load change after the alteration and make sure that you are still within specs: note that all this is done with books (the service manual), paper, pencil and calculator, *before* even touching the car. Then you disconnect the battery (this assumes that you know how to readapt components and reset fault codes once you reconnect the battery). Then you set about replacing components (such as bulbs with leds) making sure that the load under the same circuit remains balanced. Whenever you unplug a live load (such as a lit bulb) the load on the system is changed abruptly with a high probability of inducing an electric charge that may damage other circuit components. In your case this was done twice: once when the original bulb was pulled, and then again when the led was installed. In addition, the led has a very different (and much lower) load, causing a load imbalance in the circuit. Finally, it has a solid state device to regulate the current to the led, another potential cause of distress to the system. While this may or may not be related to the previous mods, I suspect damage to some components of the system, possibly even the controller itself, which would be bad news. From your description of what the dealer found, it appears that your installer did some very shoddy work. In these cases problems have a tendency to cascade through the system and, over time, cause further problems. At this point, if it were my car, I would ask someone who knows what s/he is doing (see point 2 above) to bring it back to absolute stock circuit-wise, after which methodical testing and troubleshooting should enable them to identify the faulty components, if any. I realize this is bad news, but I do not really see any way around it.
Finally, a word about the warranty. The dealer is quite right in stating that mods such as those you mention void the warranty: there are words to this effect in the warranty description for all new cars, understandably given their electrical complexity.
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this is definitely like the 3rd or 4th time i've read that somebodys courtesy light burned out during/after an LED install
i had LEDs in every single light bulb socket in both my 3Gs, never had a problem
i put LED blinkers in my 4G (with load balancers) and fuses started blowing left and right. after that, i vowed never to put an LED in my 4G again (except license plate lights, which i've on both my 4Gs)
personally, here is what i think
LEDs use less electric than halogens, correct? so when people installed LED's into the halogen dome/courtesy lights on the 3G, they would lose the "dimming" function of the lights when you closed the door or turned them off.
the 4G, which has circuitry designed to dim both the LEDs (dome) and the halogen (courtesy) lights when shutting the door or turning off the lights. i think by putting the LED in the courtesy lights (especially while its on) you change/alter the electric current draw on that "super advanced" electrical system or "multiplex" as the dealer calls it.. and quite frankly, you f!@ked it up!!
just my
i've had a bunch of TL's and i've modded them all... id rather not mess around with LEDs on the 4G
ive also installed Viper 2Way remote start/alarms and amps and subs, led door sills and custom lights on both my 3Gs... i opted not to on the 4G...
i had LEDs in every single light bulb socket in both my 3Gs, never had a problem
i put LED blinkers in my 4G (with load balancers) and fuses started blowing left and right. after that, i vowed never to put an LED in my 4G again (except license plate lights, which i've on both my 4Gs)
personally, here is what i think
LEDs use less electric than halogens, correct? so when people installed LED's into the halogen dome/courtesy lights on the 3G, they would lose the "dimming" function of the lights when you closed the door or turned them off.
the 4G, which has circuitry designed to dim both the LEDs (dome) and the halogen (courtesy) lights when shutting the door or turning off the lights. i think by putting the LED in the courtesy lights (especially while its on) you change/alter the electric current draw on that "super advanced" electrical system or "multiplex" as the dealer calls it.. and quite frankly, you f!@ked it up!!
just my
i've had a bunch of TL's and i've modded them all... id rather not mess around with LEDs on the 4Give also installed Viper 2Way remote start/alarms and amps and subs, led door sills and custom lights on both my 3Gs... i opted not to on the 4G...
Last edited by BLACKURA_NY; Jan 26, 2011 at 12:04 AM.
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Cybersonic,
Modern cars are equipped with a fairly sophisticated electrical system that is quite sensitive to a lot of factors, including load imbalance and induced currents. Thus, for example, typically interior lights are controlled by a "comfort and light" controller and even the switches are no longer switches but rather keys (as in a keyboard) sending packets of information to the appropriate controller via the CAN (Central Area Network). I do not know for sure that this is the case for the TL, but it certainly applies to many modern cars I have worked on, such as the Volkswagen Phaeton.
Consequently, there are only two ways of doing electrical mods to a modern car:
1) don't do it! this is the recommended way.
2) if you still want to do it, it must be done very systematically and methodically by someone who knows what s/he is doing: typically you study the electrical circuits in the service manual, compute to the total electrical load on the circuit you intend to alter, then project the load change after the alteration and make sure that you are still within specs: note that all this is done with books (the service manual), paper, pencil and calculator, *before* even touching the car. Then you disconnect the battery (this assumes that you know how to readapt components and reset fault codes once you reconnect the battery). Then you set about replacing components (such as bulbs with leds) making sure that the load under the same circuit remains balanced.
Whenever you unplug a live load (such as a lit bulb) the load on the system is changed abruptly with a high probability of inducing an electric charge that may damage other circuit components. In your case this was done twice: once when the original bulb was pulled, and then again when the led was installed. In addition, the led has a very different (and much lower) load, causing a load imbalance in the circuit. Finally, it has a solid state device to regulate the current to the led, another potential cause of distress to the system. While this may or may not be related to the previous mods, I suspect damage to some components of the system, possibly even the controller itself, which would be bad news. From your description of what the dealer found, it appears that your installer did some very shoddy work. In these cases problems have a tendency to cascade through the system and, over time, cause further problems. At this point, if it were my car, I would ask someone who knows what s/he is doing (see point 2 above) to bring it back to absolute stock circuit-wise, after which methodical testing and troubleshooting should enable them to identify the faulty components, if any. I realize this is bad news, but I do not really see any way around it.
Finally, a word about the warranty. The dealer is quite right in stating that mods such as those you mention void the warranty: there are words to this effect in the warranty description for all new cars, understandably given their electrical complexity.
Modern cars are equipped with a fairly sophisticated electrical system that is quite sensitive to a lot of factors, including load imbalance and induced currents. Thus, for example, typically interior lights are controlled by a "comfort and light" controller and even the switches are no longer switches but rather keys (as in a keyboard) sending packets of information to the appropriate controller via the CAN (Central Area Network). I do not know for sure that this is the case for the TL, but it certainly applies to many modern cars I have worked on, such as the Volkswagen Phaeton.
Consequently, there are only two ways of doing electrical mods to a modern car:
1) don't do it! this is the recommended way
.2) if you still want to do it, it must be done very systematically and methodically by someone who knows what s/he is doing
: typically you study the electrical circuits in the service manual, compute to the total electrical load on the circuit you intend to alter, then project the load change after the alteration and make sure that you are still within specs: note that all this is done with books (the service manual), paper, pencil and calculator, *before* even touching the car. Then you disconnect the battery (this assumes that you know how to readapt components and reset fault codes once you reconnect the battery). Then you set about replacing components (such as bulbs with leds) making sure that the load under the same circuit remains balanced. Whenever you unplug a live load (such as a lit bulb) the load on the system is changed abruptly with a high probability of inducing an electric charge that may damage other circuit components. In your case this was done twice: once when the original bulb was pulled, and then again when the led was installed. In addition, the led has a very different (and much lower) load, causing a load imbalance in the circuit. Finally, it has a solid state device to regulate the current to the led, another potential cause of distress to the system. While this may or may not be related to the previous mods, I suspect damage to some components of the system, possibly even the controller itself, which would be bad news. From your description of what the dealer found, it appears that your installer did some very shoddy work. In these cases problems have a tendency to cascade through the system and, over time, cause further problems. At this point, if it were my car, I would ask someone who knows what s/he is doing (see point 2 above) to bring it back to absolute stock circuit-wise, after which methodical testing and troubleshooting should enable them to identify the faulty components, if any. I realize this is bad news, but I do not really see any way around it.
Finally, a word about the warranty. The dealer is quite right in stating that mods such as those you mention void the warranty: there are words to this effect in the warranty description for all new cars, understandably given their electrical complexity.
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/Turn-Signal-LED/Amber-LED/V-LEDS-TYPE-2-DUAL-COLOR-p5851397.html
http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fix/Turn-Signal-Fix/3-OHM-50W-4-BULB-LED-p5679822-1-2.html
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this is definitely like the 3rd or 4th time i've read that somebodys courtesy light burned out during/after an LED install
i had LEDs in every single light bulb socket in both my 3Gs, never had a problem
i put LED blinkers in my 4G (with load balancers) and fuses started blowing left and right. after that, i vowed never to put an LED in my 4G again (except license plate lights, which i've on both my 4Gs)
personally, here is what i think
LEDs use less electric than halogens, correct? so when people installed LED's into the halogen dome/courtesy lights on the 3G, they would lose the "dimming" function of the lights when you closed the door or turned them off.
the 4G, which has circuitry designed to dim both the LEDs (dome) and the halogen (courtesy) lights when shutting the door or turning off the lights. i think by putting the LED in the courtesy lights (especially while its on) you change/alter the electric current draw on that "super advanced" electrical system or "multiplex" as the dealer calls it.. and quite frankly, you f!@ked it up!!
just my i've had a bunch of TL's and i've modded them all... id rather not mess around with LEDs on the 4G
ive also installed Viper 2Way remote start/alarms and amps and subs, led door sills and custom lights on both my 3Gs... i opted not to on the 4G...
i had LEDs in every single light bulb socket in both my 3Gs, never had a problem
i put LED blinkers in my 4G (with load balancers) and fuses started blowing left and right. after that, i vowed never to put an LED in my 4G again (except license plate lights, which i've on both my 4Gs)
personally, here is what i think
LEDs use less electric than halogens, correct? so when people installed LED's into the halogen dome/courtesy lights on the 3G, they would lose the "dimming" function of the lights when you closed the door or turned them off.
the 4G, which has circuitry designed to dim both the LEDs (dome) and the halogen (courtesy) lights when shutting the door or turning off the lights. i think by putting the LED in the courtesy lights (especially while its on) you change/alter the electric current draw on that "super advanced" electrical system or "multiplex" as the dealer calls it.. and quite frankly, you f!@ked it up!!
just my
i've had a bunch of TL's and i've modded them all... id rather not mess around with LEDs on the 4Give also installed Viper 2Way remote start/alarms and amps and subs, led door sills and custom lights on both my 3Gs... i opted not to on the 4G...
. From what I read from several people on the forum, the logical way were to discount the housing and install the bulb in the housing then reconnect the housing. To be on the safe side, after the fix I think I’ll leave it alone to original but then it’s so tempting. Question on your switchbacks, I got myself a pair of switchbacks and resistors. http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/Turn-Signal-LED/Amber-LED/V-LEDS-TYPE-2-DUAL-COLOR-p5851397.html
http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fix/Turn-Signal-Fix/3-OHM-50W-4-BULB-LED-p5679822-1-2.html
You think this will work because there are mix input on the forum of people able to do it and people have sh!t hit the fan after. Your load balancer is the same as load resistors correct? Excuse my noobness. Thanks
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
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This is what I have modded:
1. LED's in my signal lights along with resistors.
2. Clear LED's in my parking lights in the front and red LED's in the rear.
3. LED's in my license plate.
4. I also moded my rear reflectors and installed LED strips inside the rear reflectors which I tapped a wire into the rear parking lights.
All is good!! FAWK after reading this I hope it will still be all good. I will now wear an ACURA emblem on my neck to scare all the bad LED spirits! OP Good luck with yours.
1. LED's in my signal lights along with resistors.
2. Clear LED's in my parking lights in the front and red LED's in the rear.
3. LED's in my license plate.
4. I also moded my rear reflectors and installed LED strips inside the rear reflectors which I tapped a wire into the rear parking lights.
All is good!! FAWK after reading this I hope it will still be all good. I will now wear an ACURA emblem on my neck to scare all the bad LED spirits! OP Good luck with yours.
Last edited by 777mycoolangelo; Jan 26, 2011 at 09:45 AM.
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From: California
This is what I have modded:
1. LED's in my signal lights along with resistors.
2. Clear LED's in my parking lights in the front and red LED's in the rear.
3. LED's in my license plate.
4. I also moded my rear reflectors and installed LED strips inside the rear reflectors which I tapped a wire into the rear parking lights.
All is good!! FAWK after reading this I hope it will still be all good. I will now wear an ACURA emblem on my neck to scare all the bad LED spirits! OP Good luck with yours.
1. LED's in my signal lights along with resistors.
2. Clear LED's in my parking lights in the front and red LED's in the rear.
3. LED's in my license plate.
4. I also moded my rear reflectors and installed LED strips inside the rear reflectors which I tapped a wire into the rear parking lights.
All is good!! FAWK after reading this I hope it will still be all good. I will now wear an ACURA emblem on my neck to scare all the bad LED spirits! OP Good luck with yours.
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/Turn-Signal-LED/Amber-LED/V-LEDS-TYPE-2-DUAL-COLOR-p5851397.html
http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fix/Turn-Signal-Fix/3-OHM-50W-4-BULB-LED-p5679822-1-2.html
The size is the parking lights for the front and back? Thanks.
Racer
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Posts: 424
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I got my resistors and LED's from www.superbrightleds.com They used to be a vendor on here but not sure now.
here are the resistors RL 650. You have to get one for each LED Bulb. I only changed my signal lights in the front so I only used 2 resistors: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...23loadresistor
Those resistors get hot...so instead of actually mounting them on a flat surface I zip tied the 2 wires and had it floating so it doesn't touch any surface or wires. ( hope you can visualize)
to check all your replacement bulb sizes go here: http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProd...lacementGuide/
here are the resistors RL 650. You have to get one for each LED Bulb. I only changed my signal lights in the front so I only used 2 resistors: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...23loadresistor
Those resistors get hot...so instead of actually mounting them on a flat surface I zip tied the 2 wires and had it floating so it doesn't touch any surface or wires. ( hope you can visualize)
to check all your replacement bulb sizes go here: http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProd...lacementGuide/
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I got my resistors and LED's from www.superbrightleds.com They used to be a vendor on here but not sure now.
here are the resistors RL 650. You have to get one for each LED Bulb. I only changed my signal lights in the front so I only used 2 resistors: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...23loadresistor
Those resistors get hot...so instead of actually mounting them on a flat surface I zip tied the 2 wires and had it floating so it doesn't touch any surface or wires. ( hope you can visualize)
to check all your replacement bulb sizes go here: http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProd...lacementGuide/
here are the resistors RL 650. You have to get one for each LED Bulb. I only changed my signal lights in the front so I only used 2 resistors: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...23loadresistor
Those resistors get hot...so instead of actually mounting them on a flat surface I zip tied the 2 wires and had it floating so it doesn't touch any surface or wires. ( hope you can visualize)
to check all your replacement bulb sizes go here: http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProd...lacementGuide/
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