Deep paint scratches
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Chief Excellence Liason
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Behind the Orange Curtain, CA
Deep paint scratches
So I was at a festival yesterday and this chick in our group dinged my rear driver's side door repeatedly as she was getting in and out of the car next to me. Long story short I ended up getting one of those scratch remover kits and some touch up paint, so I was wondering if anyone had a good best practices guide for retouching chipped areas.
I already had a bit of a go at it, sanded the area down and used some primer before applying a layer of the touch up paint. I got it from the acura dealer and it's supposed to match my paint although it looks a shade or two darker as it stands. (I've applied it to minor chips elsewhere and it matched perfectly when just applying the paint without sanding or priming)
First go with touchup paint for reference:
The current problem, after sanding and priming:
Any tips would be greatly appreciated
I already had a bit of a go at it, sanded the area down and used some primer before applying a layer of the touch up paint. I got it from the acura dealer and it's supposed to match my paint although it looks a shade or two darker as it stands. (I've applied it to minor chips elsewhere and it matched perfectly when just applying the paint without sanding or priming)
First go with touchup paint for reference:

The current problem, after sanding and priming:

Any tips would be greatly appreciated
cant be fixed it wont look perfect.. silver is one of the hardest paints to match.. no touch up paint will ever match it.
your just going to have to live with it.. ive done it on my CBP which was easy and it blended in nicely as it doesnt have any shade what soever.. its just black..
your just going to have to live with it.. ive done it on my CBP which was easy and it blended in nicely as it doesnt have any shade what soever.. its just black..
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Chief Excellence Liason
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Behind the Orange Curtain, CA
any insight on why the first pic looked so much closer? It's from the same bottle of paint but I've used a bit of it...do the colors separate easier after continuous use?
doesnt matter what i offer to do.. it will still be very noticable..
what im curious is why you sanded it? and then primed it?
most touch up paints if not all do not require sanding or priming.. its a all in one..
also touch up paints are mostly made for dings.. small chips like your rear bumper and not like the door.. should not use in large affected areas such as your rear door.
what im curious is why you sanded it? and then primed it?
most touch up paints if not all do not require sanding or priming.. its a all in one..
also touch up paints are mostly made for dings.. small chips like your rear bumper and not like the door.. should not use in large affected areas such as your rear door.
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Chief Excellence Liason
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Behind the Orange Curtain, CA
Didn't know touchups were all in 1. I followed the directions on the back of the kit, which came with some wet sand blocks, and also from another site which I can't find at the moment...I think it was a popular mechanics article.
After watching a couple youtube videos on it, it was pretty clear that I mixed the directions from those sources and went through the process in the wrong order
After watching a couple youtube videos on it, it was pretty clear that I mixed the directions from those sources and went through the process in the wrong order
I touched up a few areas on the RDX last weekend (CBP). I used the Dr ColorChip. Some mixed results. Worked great on the fine cracks from the PDR and some of the hood chips. But just doesn't work well on large spots. Hence, the trouble with touching up any good ding.
You could scrape it with a razor blade, color sand the area and then give it a good buff,...But at this point, you might as well just hope that someone else hits your car so you can fix the door properly.
You could scrape it with a razor blade, color sand the area and then give it a good buff,...But at this point, you might as well just hope that someone else hits your car so you can fix the door properly.
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If it's any help....
https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-2009-2014-123/developed-steps-fix-paint-scratches-891042/
I too didn't know touch-up paint was all-in one. This is the case for the Acura OEM touch up paint? I may need to rethink my procedure...
https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-2009-2014-123/developed-steps-fix-paint-scratches-891042/
I too didn't know touch-up paint was all-in one. This is the case for the Acura OEM touch up paint? I may need to rethink my procedure...
Thread Starter
Chief Excellence Liason
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 158
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From: Behind the Orange Curtain, CA
I'm thinking a spray can or an airbrush might be better suited to this size of a ding than a paintbrush...unless I just fit a big glob of paint over it and sand that part down to make it flush.
I actually ended up getting a new bottle of touchup paint and it color matches a lot better than the older one that I had been using. Maybe I didn't clean the surfaces well enough in the past and contaminated that bottle? or didn't shake it up well enough?
Pain in the ass either way. I wish I had learned to do this to my old matrix before stepping up to a TL lol
I actually ended up getting a new bottle of touchup paint and it color matches a lot better than the older one that I had been using. Maybe I didn't clean the surfaces well enough in the past and contaminated that bottle? or didn't shake it up well enough?
Pain in the ass either way. I wish I had learned to do this to my old matrix before stepping up to a TL lol
one advice that you should take into consideration before you attempt to do anything to your car.. ALWAYS do your research..
never let the phrase "eh.. how hard can it be?" run through your head..
never let the phrase "eh.. how hard can it be?" run through your head..
I'm thinking a spray can or an airbrush might be better suited to this size of a ding than a paintbrush...unless I just fit a big glob of paint over it and sand that part down to make it flush.
I actually ended up getting a new bottle of touchup paint and it color matches a lot better than the older one that I had been using. Maybe I didn't clean the surfaces well enough in the past and contaminated that bottle? or didn't shake it up well enough?
Pain in the ass either way. I wish I had learned to do this to my old matrix before stepping up to a TL lol
I actually ended up getting a new bottle of touchup paint and it color matches a lot better than the older one that I had been using. Maybe I didn't clean the surfaces well enough in the past and contaminated that bottle? or didn't shake it up well enough?
Pain in the ass either way. I wish I had learned to do this to my old matrix before stepping up to a TL lol
Thread Starter
Chief Excellence Liason
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Behind the Orange Curtain, CA
[QUOTE=mynameisjacob;14562179]Why don't you just buy the Acura OEM touch up paint? Your local Acura dealer will have them stocked in the parts department. I picked up the other day for $11 or you can even order online. What is your car, polished metal metallic?
Exactly what I did, only it's palladium metallic. Sometimes the colors separated and blended while it set, so I ended up starting over and using an airbrush:

Still noticeable if you know where to look, but I think it's an improvement.
Exactly what I did, only it's palladium metallic. Sometimes the colors separated and blended while it set, so I ended up starting over and using an airbrush:

Still noticeable if you know where to look, but I think it's an improvement.
Joined: Sep 2008
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I went through some similar with my fiance's alabaster metallic accord on her door. SO noticeable (as opposed to my NBP).
The final touch that will make it blend enough to be able to sleep at night.
Do a good coat of clear over it the way you have it masked off...wait 3 days MINIMUM. Then give it and the surrounding area a nice little sand with 2000 and up wetsand paper. Then compound and buff about a foot around the spot.
This will erase the hard line of where you had taped and the compound/buff will leave your touch up spot as reflective and glossy as the factory clear coat.
Worst case, if you go too big or are NOT happy with results. Wipe it ALL off with goof off. Do NOT leave it on any longer than needed to remove the added touch up paint, immediately spray down with soap and water or windex to stop the reaction before it does anything to the rest of your paint. This is ONLY if you want to erase what you've painted on and start all over again.
The final touch that will make it blend enough to be able to sleep at night.
Do a good coat of clear over it the way you have it masked off...wait 3 days MINIMUM. Then give it and the surrounding area a nice little sand with 2000 and up wetsand paper. Then compound and buff about a foot around the spot.
This will erase the hard line of where you had taped and the compound/buff will leave your touch up spot as reflective and glossy as the factory clear coat.
Worst case, if you go too big or are NOT happy with results. Wipe it ALL off with goof off. Do NOT leave it on any longer than needed to remove the added touch up paint, immediately spray down with soap and water or windex to stop the reaction before it does anything to the rest of your paint. This is ONLY if you want to erase what you've painted on and start all over again.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,246
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When on a budget, or in a pinch...it comes in handy. Can't help that I've taken that approach for many many years now. Full respray is the ONLY real permanent solution. But for a 1/2" scratch on the door, making it not be noticeable is my choice.
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