Clutch fluid
Flushed and bled my clutch a year ago. It has bleed nipple just like the brake calipers. It is a little hard to reach, and I found it hard to tighten it once done so it would not leak. It was trial and error for me to not tighten it too much and end up stripping the nipple, and tightening it enough to get it to seal completely. I used a dry, clean napkin to wipe it to check for wet spots on the napkin.
DO NOT actuate the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when trying to pump/flush fluid thru the clutch. This will run the cylinder too far and risk damaging the inside seal.
Be sure to place protective rags on the frame members under actuator cylinder & nipple to keep the fluid from dripping onto the frame members below.
DO NOT actuate the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when trying to pump/flush fluid thru the clutch. This will run the cylinder too far and risk damaging the inside seal.
Be sure to place protective rags on the frame members under actuator cylinder & nipple to keep the fluid from dripping onto the frame members below.
Last edited by Little Gator; Jun 22, 2013 at 11:16 AM.
Again, not meaning to be argumentative, but why would you do that? Original poster has a '12 TL. The only reason to bleed the clutch fluid is if there was some leak or a cylinder - master cyl. or slave cyl. had to be replaced. But that would be done by a dealer under warranty. (?) There is no reason to bleed brake lines or clutch fluid, just for the heck of it, on a regular car that is not used on a racetrack.
Again, not meaning to be argumentative, but why would you do that? Original poster has a '12 TL. The only reason to bleed the clutch fluid is if there was some leak or a cylinder - master cyl. or slave cyl. had to be replaced. But that would be done by a dealer under warranty. (?) There is no reason to bleed brake lines or clutch fluid, just for the heck of it, on a regular car that is not used on a racetrack.
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