Takeda Dyno 2009 Acura TL Intake
05-20-2009, 08:03 PM
#1
Cruisin'
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Takeda Dyno 2009 Acura TL Intake
Hey guys, surfing through my regular spots and found this. Looks good, but for 14+HP, cost is a factor. This is for the 3.5L TL. 
Let's go!!
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/T...-TL_683110.htm
Let's go!!
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/T...-TL_683110.htm
05-20-2009, 08:20 PM
#2
I am a bullet proof tiger
Nice find, I didnt know this video was posted yet, thats my car in the video, intake was installed on monday and I am very happy with the performance thus far.
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05-24-2009, 08:04 AM
#11
05-26-2009, 09:46 PM
#14
I just doubt that the ram intake is going to maintain the 14 HP gain when the hood is closed and it's 90 degress outside. Then it will be sucking in the burning hot engine compartment air. So which is better, hotter higher flow or cooler but less flow? I'll wait to see #'s from a future CAI.
05-26-2009, 10:46 PM
#16
Senior Moderator
Dyno's aren't perfectly acurate to 1 HP, its more like 3-4 because things change, tire temp, engine temp, oil temp, etc. Maybe it helped the car gain only 9 WHP, maybe it made it gain 15 WHP. You can't be that precise with just one mod and one run with only one car.
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TrueMagic (08-31-2013)
05-26-2009, 11:43 PM
#17
I am a bullet proof tiger
05-27-2009, 05:55 AM
#19
I saw yours, you really ripped that baby apart, nice job. Very interesting and it probably helps a little for sure, not to mention sounds better.
I just doubt that the ram intake is going to maintain the 14 HP gain when the hood is closed and it's 90 degress outside. Then it will be sucking in the burning hot engine compartment air. So which is better, hotter higher flow or cooler but less flow? I'll wait to see #'s from a future CAI.
I just doubt that the ram intake is going to maintain the 14 HP gain when the hood is closed and it's 90 degress outside. Then it will be sucking in the burning hot engine compartment air. So which is better, hotter higher flow or cooler but less flow? I'll wait to see #'s from a future CAI.
05-27-2009, 01:28 PM
#20
I saw yours, you really ripped that baby apart, nice job. Very interesting and it probably helps a little for sure, not to mention sounds better.
I just doubt that the ram intake is going to maintain the 14 HP gain when the hood is closed and it's 90 degress outside. Then it will be sucking in the burning hot engine compartment air. So which is better, hotter higher flow or cooler but less flow? I'll wait to see #'s from a future CAI.
I just doubt that the ram intake is going to maintain the 14 HP gain when the hood is closed and it's 90 degress outside. Then it will be sucking in the burning hot engine compartment air. So which is better, hotter higher flow or cooler but less flow? I'll wait to see #'s from a future CAI.
I don't doubt his numbers actually. When I put my Prelude on the dyno to tune it, I found that alot of my "dyno misnomers" were basically all false once i got to experience them for myself.
For reference, I was running a supercharger on an H22A4 engine with a short-ram intake. Intake temperatures were 170 degrees (!) and I was at 229whp. I put a bag of ice on the supercharger and when the computer read intake temperatures around 140 degrees, the car put down 230whp. The next run, I removed the K&N intake filter cone from the Short Air Intake and remained at 230whp still. All of these numbers were with the hood open.
But with the hood closed, the Short Air Intake still is able to suck in cooler air from the outside because it was still placed above the hole of the original factory intake. I believe we can also say that a car moving above 30mph, that cooler outside air still circulates somewhat in the engine bay through the nooks and crannies. So if he says 14whp, then I believe him because his flow has increased with the smoother bends and surface area of the inside of the intake tube and I don't think that engine bay temperatures account for that much loss or gain in HP.
If you really want to get into the nitty-gritty, there's a bit of automotive science you are forgetting about. An engine runs more efficiently (thus; powerfully) when it is at operating temperature. Operating temperature has alot more than just coolant temperatures to factor in. Intake temperatures rise due to engine heat and also the coolant circulating through the throttle body, as well as the valve cover breather circulating crankcase pressure (from the hot engine) back into the intake stream. There's even the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve that dumps a bit of exhaust gas into the intake stream to reduce NOx emissions (by creating higher intake air temps)!
All of this is going to make the intake temperature roughly the same across the spectrum whether you have a cold-air or short air intake. I, for one, doubt that any gains or losses will be revealed by using one or the other.
As for your second comment that I highlighted, the only way you could accurately measure the difference would be to use the same person's car and swap the two systems (short ram versus cold-air) back to back in very minimal time-spans. All cars will retain a certain degree of imbalance in their hp even from the factory, that's just the way it is.
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TrueMagic (08-31-2013)
05-27-2009, 03:22 PM
#21
I don't doubt his numbers actually. When I put my Prelude on the dyno to tune it, I found that alot of my "dyno misnomers" were basically all false once i got to experience them for myself.
For reference, I was running a supercharger on an H22A4 engine with a short-ram intake. Intake temperatures were 170 degrees (!) and I was at 229whp. I put a bag of ice on the supercharger and when the computer read intake temperatures around 140 degrees, the car put down 230whp. The next run, I removed the K&N intake filter cone from the Short Air Intake and remained at 230whp still. All of these numbers were with the hood open.
But with the hood closed, the Short Air Intake still is able to suck in cooler air from the outside because it was still placed above the hole of the original factory intake. I believe we can also say that a car moving above 30mph, that cooler outside air still circulates somewhat in the engine bay through the nooks and crannies. So if he says 14whp, then I believe him because his flow has increased with the smoother bends and surface area of the inside of the intake tube and I don't think that engine bay temperatures account for that much loss or gain in HP.
If you really want to get into the nitty-gritty, there's a bit of automotive science you are forgetting about. An engine runs more efficiently (thus; powerfully) when it is at operating temperature. Operating temperature has alot more than just coolant temperatures to factor in. Intake temperatures rise due to engine heat and also the coolant circulating through the throttle body, as well as the valve cover breather circulating crankcase pressure (from the hot engine) back into the intake stream. There's even the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve that dumps a bit of exhaust gas into the intake stream to reduce NOx emissions (by creating higher intake air temps)!
All of this is going to make the intake temperature roughly the same across the spectrum whether you have a cold-air or short air intake. I, for one, doubt that any gains or losses will be revealed by using one or the other.
As for your second comment that I highlighted, the only way you could accurately measure the difference would be to use the same person's car and swap the two systems (short ram versus cold-air) back to back in very minimal time-spans. All cars will retain a certain degree of imbalance in their hp even from the factory, that's just the way it is.
For reference, I was running a supercharger on an H22A4 engine with a short-ram intake. Intake temperatures were 170 degrees (!) and I was at 229whp. I put a bag of ice on the supercharger and when the computer read intake temperatures around 140 degrees, the car put down 230whp. The next run, I removed the K&N intake filter cone from the Short Air Intake and remained at 230whp still. All of these numbers were with the hood open.
But with the hood closed, the Short Air Intake still is able to suck in cooler air from the outside because it was still placed above the hole of the original factory intake. I believe we can also say that a car moving above 30mph, that cooler outside air still circulates somewhat in the engine bay through the nooks and crannies. So if he says 14whp, then I believe him because his flow has increased with the smoother bends and surface area of the inside of the intake tube and I don't think that engine bay temperatures account for that much loss or gain in HP.
If you really want to get into the nitty-gritty, there's a bit of automotive science you are forgetting about. An engine runs more efficiently (thus; powerfully) when it is at operating temperature. Operating temperature has alot more than just coolant temperatures to factor in. Intake temperatures rise due to engine heat and also the coolant circulating through the throttle body, as well as the valve cover breather circulating crankcase pressure (from the hot engine) back into the intake stream. There's even the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve that dumps a bit of exhaust gas into the intake stream to reduce NOx emissions (by creating higher intake air temps)!
All of this is going to make the intake temperature roughly the same across the spectrum whether you have a cold-air or short air intake. I, for one, doubt that any gains or losses will be revealed by using one or the other.
As for your second comment that I highlighted, the only way you could accurately measure the difference would be to use the same person's car and swap the two systems (short ram versus cold-air) back to back in very minimal time-spans. All cars will retain a certain degree of imbalance in their hp even from the factory, that's just the way it is.
05-27-2009, 06:46 PM
#22
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Is there a MAF adapter available for the base TL 3.5 version?
Or is there a universal adapter that the sensor can fit and be screwed onto?
If not, where can I order the Takeda Short Ram Intake from?
Any help is appreciated!!!
Or is there a universal adapter that the sensor can fit and be screwed onto?
If not, where can I order the Takeda Short Ram Intake from?
Any help is appreciated!!!
06-20-2009, 07:03 PM
#25
I am a bullet proof tiger
06-26-2009, 12:34 PM
#27
Xlerate, since the geographic of buyers looking to get the manual transmission TL probably has the most interest in aftermarket parts, and seeing how the manual transmission will only be offered with the 3.7L SH-AWD, does this mean we can expect to see your launch of your intake for the 3.7L before or after the release of the MT on September 24? 
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#29
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