(Not pictured - Inlet Elbow and Mounting Hardware)

 

i just saw this on facebook.. where is the carbon fiber works at?

 

They said it might come out later.

 

How much power are we going to get out of this with an exaust system.

 

Whenever this is offically available it will be goodbye Takeda lol.

 

Comptech initially claiming 18hp gains (not sure if Front Wheel or All Wheel). I'm skeptical of anyone claiming this on an intake, ESPEICALLYwhen I can attest how well it already flows, and how useless the SRI is, but it is Comptech, so it's something being engineered and tested, not just bending tubes and sticking filters on them.

I'll buy one.

 

subscribed!

so this intake has its own air box which prevents the air filter from soaking in hot/warm engine bay air?

 

Traditionally the icebox is an OEM-like intake assembly replacement, geared toward performance instead of noise reduction and safety.

 

Subscribed...awaiting stats and pricing

 

Comptech is pretty good about updating on Facebook daily if you do that sort of thing.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/CT-Engineering/10150143473000721

 

Thank you for always being true
its tough out here, always being the guy that dislikes the SRI and getting shit for "advising" people to stay away from them.

Recently, some one on the 3rd gen side measured intake temperatures.
the IAT is very sensitive to heat and will reduce timing!
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/experiments-air-intake-temperatures-868353/

I have modified my stock air cold air intake to really draw from the bumper, by taking out the resonator and extending the pipe to the bumper using the stock velocity stack.

this is the best! I believe.
(it does have restrictions in the bends)

If these comptech iceboxes come out for the 3.5, I might snag one as it probably will fit the 3rd gen, seeing we have the same engine layout.

 

I've thought more than a few times about taking my SRI off. Those findings might be motivation to do just that. I have dashcommand and can meter everything. Maybe I'll do a datalogged controlled run with the SRI and a datalogged controlled run with the stock box back in place.

 

I have what Justin has, only I moved my filter from inside the oem box, to the end of that tube, but still drawing from the colder bumper air with an AEM dryflow filter. I agree, temperature is key...

 

Received this email from them:

 

^^^Nice. What is the price point on them? $250ish?

 

Judging by the prices for the other IB models from them, probably $350+

 

Once pricing is available we will set up a preorder. I would imagine $300-$350 range based on previous Icebox setups.

 

For those of us who have ripped apart the stock intake already... it looks to me like this is going to utilize part of the stock tubing that goes down under the battery and up again behind the grill. The stock intake is actually really efficient in the 4G. It creates a safe ram air effect. I think the biggest gains are creating a bigger 'cavity' for more pressure which means opening up restrictive bends and eliminating bulky resonators. On the flip side to that, you can shove all the air you want into the tube, but you need an air filter with more surface area to actually get more air into the motor.

That said, always really liked the Icebox designs, can't wait to pre-order one.

 

^our stock paper filter lets in more air than the throttle body will allow.


or was true on the 3G TL with a throttle body diameter of 72mm.

 

The stock on the 4G 3.7L is 79mm inlet and 69mm outlet... although mine has been bored to 82/72 respectively.

 

if that's the case, then as long as you're routing the conical (or other) filter to a colder air area, why not just spend the $350 on skittles or hookers?

I know there's major debate on what makes more hp etc...but realistically, if the TB is the limiting factor, then the only variable that matters is where you get your air from. And you don't need to spend over a 1/3 of a grand to do that. No offense to anyone interested...

 

Not sure where the bottleneck is. I'm running all the P2R gear, including the runners, and I couldn't tell it did a thing. My thought has always been the MAF sensor isn't digging the mods...

Same bolt ons on my J32A2 made my CL a mustang eating machine. On here, it's just a little bit more peppy in the mid range and at redline.

 

to see some dynographs and prices.

 

I made my own Frankenstein cold air by removing the resonator, all that tubing that goes under the battery to the grille and left the opening to breath behind the wheel well. Took about 20min and cost about 0 dollars.. No dyno to prove it helped or hurt hp/tq, but I can definitely hear it now.

 

^^^I did the same with mine...well, eventually, I ended up removing the K&N drop in and putting a dryflow on the end of the oem tube coming out of the bottom of the airbox into the bumper.

 

I take it you did not install back the brake cooling duct? At least on mine, it mounted to a part of that tubing, so I ended up leaving pieces of it intact.

 

I don't even know what you're talking about...so I am guessing I didn't...

 

Remember this is a 4G thread.
we dont have those on our 3G's.

 

Didn't realize that, Jus...thanks. Plus, our 3G's are performing hard enough to need the brakes cooled, I guess.

 

Not particularly sure why people would want to lean out their A/F ratios to get a few more HP... Without able to tune to add fuel seems questionable...

Be interested to hear more about this though.

 

Leaner = Meaner. It's kind of the idea.

 

leaner = running hot, premature detonation, burning oil... not ideal operating scenarios.

 

The factory PCM is more than sufficient to handle the extra air flow as measured by the MAF/MAP sensor.

Unless one goes to force induction, then larger fuel injectors are required to maintain the optimal air/field ratio.

 

Have you ever looked at the baseline A/F on the J37? It's textbook Honda. Fat. From top to bottom. The only Honda with a remotely lean A/F was the F20C powered S2000, and anything with a factory fuel pump and injectors leans out at 9k.

An air fuel tune alone on an all stock B16 (civic Si 99/00, JDM CRX, Del Sol Vtec) back in the day would find 10-15 hp on the dyno. While that doesnt sound like much, you're talking about a motor that was only making 160hp - so you're getting nearly a 10% increase in output just by running leaner. The Honda "safety-net" for reliability and compensation for bad gas, harsh environments, etc. is generally about that 10% factor, even to date.

Going leaner doesnt mean you're going to blow the top off the engine. The ECU and plethora of timing adjustments, knock sensor, cam sensors, idle control, and air/exhaust metering allow the ECU to cripple the engine into a "flood it and no vtec for you" limp mode and make it near impossible to do damage if you push it that far.

Creating a leaner condition optimizes your mix and enables power to be created with less effort. Revs faster, more power per cycle, and *gasp* more efficiency.

You're talking about adding some kind of forced induction on a J motor before you ever outflow the stock pump and injectors / exceed the cycle of the stock ECU range.

N/A Breathing parts aren't going to put you in that risk zone on this engine.

 

thank you fake maniac.

 

That was an awesome post...I learned something there.
But would any of these things really change just based on the CAI?

 

Pseudo has some knowledge....hmmmn

 

Just wish there are more 4G members like Pseudo who are eager to mod their cars, try out various new mods, and share the experience with all others; just like all those in the 2G forum.

 

...and the 3

 

I know I am eager to mod. As soon as this thing hits the market with a dyno sheet, I will have my name on the list.