2013 TL fwd
#2
Anything is possible but no direct fit Supercharger or turbo kit exists so whatever you do would have to be a custom build and a custom tune. How much more powert are you looking for? The 2013 TL isn't really a great platform for getting big hp numbers.
#4
Yup you'll need either a custom supercharger or turbo setup to get that, also not sure how well the OEM transmission will take to it. Sorry to say you kind of bought the wrong platform for this.
#5
Drifting
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If you add every bolt-on and get it tuned you might be able to squeeze out 40hp or so. But going turbo or SC on this probably isn't a good idea. First, it's expensive for what you get. You might as well dump that much into a different car. Second, the transmissions on these are OK at best. I wouldn't push them. Third, FWD with lots of power is . Don't get me wrong, I've seen those tricked out Civics take out Porches at the track. But the FWD TL is not the ideal vehicle for it.
I also have a FWD and am very happy with the results of what I've done to mine. I've dropped about 100lbs, installed lightweight wheels and have about every bolt on you can get: HFPC's, J-pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, lightweight crank pulley, 3.7L throttle body and intake manifold and base tune using Ktuner. Overall output is improved quite a bit. Low and Mid range output is MUCH better (especially since Ktuner). But total cost has probably been about $100/hp.
#6
How did you manage to drop 100 lbs from your car, apart from the wheels and the bolt ons?
I was going to try the lightweight pulley but I’ve heard a few negatives about em.
For OP: as of right now I wouldn’t try going FI with this car. Get the main bolt ons, some sticky tires, and a set of more firm coilovers. You’ll have a bit more power and you’ll be able to put down what you have.
I was going to try the lightweight pulley but I’ve heard a few negatives about em.
For OP: as of right now I wouldn’t try going FI with this car. Get the main bolt ons, some sticky tires, and a set of more firm coilovers. You’ll have a bit more power and you’ll be able to put down what you have.
#7
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Spare tire - 32lbs.
Floor mats - 8lbs.
Engine plastic trim - 8lbs (total)
Lightweight battery - 22lbs. (stock battery minus weight of lightweight)
J-pipe and HFPC's -11 lbs. (reduction vs. stock parts)
Front and Rear bumper reinforcements - 18lbs (~ 9lbs. each).
Wheels - 28lbs (7lbs. per corner)
Lightweight pulley - 6lbs.
I'm not planning on really dropping any more weight. I think anything more would start to compromise the comfort of the car.
The crank pulley is a long debated topic. I can see the mechanical and scientific reasons for/against it. However, the main reason I went with it was because I drove 90K miles on my 2006 with a lightweight pulley with no problems. Does that mean there wasn't some stress on the crank or rod bearings? I don't know. If I pulled it apart and looked I might find out.
Floor mats - 8lbs.
Engine plastic trim - 8lbs (total)
Lightweight battery - 22lbs. (stock battery minus weight of lightweight)
J-pipe and HFPC's -11 lbs. (reduction vs. stock parts)
Front and Rear bumper reinforcements - 18lbs (~ 9lbs. each).
Wheels - 28lbs (7lbs. per corner)
Lightweight pulley - 6lbs.
I'm not planning on really dropping any more weight. I think anything more would start to compromise the comfort of the car.
The crank pulley is a long debated topic. I can see the mechanical and scientific reasons for/against it. However, the main reason I went with it was because I drove 90K miles on my 2006 with a lightweight pulley with no problems. Does that mean there wasn't some stress on the crank or rod bearings? I don't know. If I pulled it apart and looked I might find out.
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hadokenuh (11-28-2017)
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#8
Wow. Might have to try to shed a little weight on mine.100 lbs is getting into territory where you can feel the reduction in weight.
I have the 18" Tech package wheels, which I think weight 25 lbs each so I'll probably hold off on getting new wheels.
Have you had any problems with shifts since you got your lightweight pulley? Any extra noise from the AC or the accessories?
I have the 18" Tech package wheels, which I think weight 25 lbs each so I'll probably hold off on getting new wheels.
Have you had any problems with shifts since you got your lightweight pulley? Any extra noise from the AC or the accessories?
#9
If you add every bolt-on and get it tuned you might be able to squeeze out 40hp or so. But going turbo or SC on this probably isn't a good idea. First, it's expensive for what you get. You might as well dump that much into a different car. Second, the transmissions on these are OK at best. I wouldn't push them. Third, FWD with lots of power is . Don't get me wrong, I've seen those tricked out Civics take out Porches at the track. But the FWD TL is not the ideal vehicle for it.
I also have a FWD and am very happy with the results of what I've done to mine. I've dropped about 100lbs, installed lightweight wheels and have about every bolt on you can get: HFPC's, J-pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, lightweight crank pulley, 3.7L throttle body and intake manifold and base tune using Ktuner. Overall output is improved quite a bit. Low and Mid range output is MUCH better (especially since Ktuner). But total cost has probably been about $100/hp.
#10
Last edited by JakeF; 11-27-2017 at 06:00 PM.
#11
lol holy shit the board broke all of that code.
This is the link to the Pre-Cat deletes
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/rv6-perf...se-sh-awd.html
Here are the High Flow Pre-Cats
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/rv6-perf...tl-sh-awd.html
and here is the ATLP J-pipe for the FWD
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/atlp-v2-...es0009v2t.html
This is the link to the Pre-Cat deletes
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/rv6-perf...se-sh-awd.html
Here are the High Flow Pre-Cats
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/rv6-perf...tl-sh-awd.html
and here is the ATLP J-pipe for the FWD
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/atlp-v2-...es0009v2t.html
#13
lol holy shit the board broke all of that code.
This is the link to the Pre-Cat deletes
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/rv6-perf...se-sh-awd.html
Here are the High Flow Pre-Cats
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/rv6-perf...tl-sh-awd.html
and here is the ATLP J-pipe for the FWD
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/atlp-v2-...es0009v2t.html
This is the link to the Pre-Cat deletes
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/rv6-perf...se-sh-awd.html
Here are the High Flow Pre-Cats
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/rv6-perf...tl-sh-awd.html
and here is the ATLP J-pipe for the FWD
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/atlp-v2-...es0009v2t.html
i was looking king at this site..idk if you herd of it
www.endlessrpm.com/atlp-v2-j-pipe-2009-13-acura-tl-base-fwd/
#14
Both are good brands and I assume make about equal amounts of power. Most people have gone with the XLR8 j-pipe but it's also over $100 more expensive than the ATLP.
The j-pipe is a really good first mod to do. It's fairly easy to do, changes the sound a little bit, and gives you a good hp boost for the $$$.
High Flow Cats and Pre-Cat Deletes give you good power but they're a lot more difficult to replace than the j-pipe.
The KTuner is a must have if you're gonna be doing several mods. It's super straightforward to reflash the ECU and you'll notice drivability improvements even stock. The FWD tune that's included raises the redline to 7100, disables the speed limiter, and seems like it helps with the dip in power around VTEC engagement.
Heeltoe also sells a J37 intake manifold and throttle body kit, which gives you the larger manifold and throttle body from the AWD TL. You'll have to have an aftermarket intake to do this though, so I'd hold off on this one for a bit.
The j-pipe is a really good first mod to do. It's fairly easy to do, changes the sound a little bit, and gives you a good hp boost for the $$$.
High Flow Cats and Pre-Cat Deletes give you good power but they're a lot more difficult to replace than the j-pipe.
The KTuner is a must have if you're gonna be doing several mods. It's super straightforward to reflash the ECU and you'll notice drivability improvements even stock. The FWD tune that's included raises the redline to 7100, disables the speed limiter, and seems like it helps with the dip in power around VTEC engagement.
Heeltoe also sells a J37 intake manifold and throttle body kit, which gives you the larger manifold and throttle body from the AWD TL. You'll have to have an aftermarket intake to do this though, so I'd hold off on this one for a bit.
#15
i was looking king at this site..idk if you herd of it
www.endlessrpm.com/atlp-v2-j-pipe-2009-13-acura-tl-base-fwd/
www.endlessrpm.com/atlp-v2-j-pipe-2009-13-acura-tl-base-fwd/
#16
Both are good brands and I assume make about equal amounts of power. Most people have gone with the XLR8 j-pipe but it's also over $100 more expensive than the ATLP.
The j-pipe is a really good first mod to do. It's fairly easy to do, changes the sound a little bit, and gives you a good hp boost for the $$$.
High Flow Cats and Pre-Cat Deletes give you good power but they're a lot more difficult to replace than the j-pipe.
The KTuner is a must have if you're gonna be doing several mods. It's super straightforward to reflash the ECU and you'll notice drivability improvements even stock. The FWD tune that's included raises the redline to 7100, disables the speed limiter, and seems like it helps with the dip in power around VTEC engagement.
Heeltoe also sells a J37 intake manifold and throttle body kit, which gives you the larger manifold and throttle body from the AWD TL. You'll have to have an aftermarket intake to do this though, so I'd hold off on this one for a bit.
The j-pipe is a really good first mod to do. It's fairly easy to do, changes the sound a little bit, and gives you a good hp boost for the $$$.
High Flow Cats and Pre-Cat Deletes give you good power but they're a lot more difficult to replace than the j-pipe.
The KTuner is a must have if you're gonna be doing several mods. It's super straightforward to reflash the ECU and you'll notice drivability improvements even stock. The FWD tune that's included raises the redline to 7100, disables the speed limiter, and seems like it helps with the dip in power around VTEC engagement.
Heeltoe also sells a J37 intake manifold and throttle body kit, which gives you the larger manifold and throttle body from the AWD TL. You'll have to have an aftermarket intake to do this though, so I'd hold off on this one for a bit.
#18
Well you'll only need the High Flow Cats OR the Pre-Cat Deletes not both. I'd go with the High Flow Cats since you'll pass emissions tests with them, you won't get any gas smell, and you won't get any exhaust rasp.
A j-pipe, high flow cats, and the KTunerV2 is a good place to start with mods. My guess is that you'll get around 25/30 hp and nearly as much torque from those mods. The gains will be across the rev range so the car will pull quite a bit better. Personally I was impressed with the j-pipe alone when I first put it on and could feel a noticeable difference with it. If you aren't experienced with working on cars you may want a friend who is experienced to help you (or take it to a shop) get the High Flow Cat's on.
For the J-pipe installation make sure that you have a breaker bar or impact gun.
A j-pipe, high flow cats, and the KTunerV2 is a good place to start with mods. My guess is that you'll get around 25/30 hp and nearly as much torque from those mods. The gains will be across the rev range so the car will pull quite a bit better. Personally I was impressed with the j-pipe alone when I first put it on and could feel a noticeable difference with it. If you aren't experienced with working on cars you may want a friend who is experienced to help you (or take it to a shop) get the High Flow Cat's on.
For the J-pipe installation make sure that you have a breaker bar or impact gun.
#19
Well you'll only need the High Flow Cats OR the Pre-Cat Deletes not both. I'd go with the High Flow Cats since you'll pass emissions tests with them, you won't get any gas smell, and you won't get any exhaust rasp.
A j-pipe, high flow cats, and the KTunerV2 is a good place to start with mods. My guess is that you'll get around 25/30 hp and nearly as much torque from those mods. The gains will be across the rev range so the car will pull quite a bit better. Personally I was impressed with the j-pipe alone when I first put it on and could feel a noticeable difference with it. If you aren't experienced with working on cars you may want a friend who is experienced to help you (or take it to a shop) get the High Flow Cat's on.
For the J-pipe installation make sure that you have a breaker bar or impact gun.
A j-pipe, high flow cats, and the KTunerV2 is a good place to start with mods. My guess is that you'll get around 25/30 hp and nearly as much torque from those mods. The gains will be across the rev range so the car will pull quite a bit better. Personally I was impressed with the j-pipe alone when I first put it on and could feel a noticeable difference with it. If you aren't experienced with working on cars you may want a friend who is experienced to help you (or take it to a shop) get the High Flow Cat's on.
For the J-pipe installation make sure that you have a breaker bar or impact gun.
https://www.endlessrpm.com/endless-c...-tl-09-14-fwd/
#20
I can't comment on the EndlessRPM catback. I have magnaflow mufflers and some quad tips from eBay. I'm actually getting my mid muffler and resonator cut out and replaced with a straight pipe tomorrow.
#21
word..send me a video when you’re done..what about the throttle body 3.7 ..are they from Acura?
#22
Yeah, you can buy the 'kit' through Heeltoe. I'm getting my intake runners and intake manifold port matched so it'll be a couple weeks before I get them on my car. I'll take a quick video once it's done tomorrow evening. Hopefully it's not too loud lol. I bought a dynomax resonator just in case. A custom exhaust isn't quite a 'pretty' as one from ATLP/XLR8/Endless but it'll still get the job done.
#24
You won't need the plate, the plate from our J35 can go back on the J37 IM. If I were you I may hold off on getting the manifold for a bit. You'll have to have some kind of aftermarket intake like the Takeda or the AF dynamics one that I have for it to fit. The J37 throttle body is bigger than the intake piping on our cars.
#28
Drifting
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Wow. Might have to try to shed a little weight on mine.100 lbs is getting into territory where you can feel the reduction in weight.
I have the 18" Tech package wheels, which I think weight 25 lbs each so I'll probably hold off on getting new wheels.
Have you had any problems with shifts since you got your lightweight pulley? Any extra noise from the AC or the accessories?
I have the 18" Tech package wheels, which I think weight 25 lbs each so I'll probably hold off on getting new wheels.
Have you had any problems with shifts since you got your lightweight pulley? Any extra noise from the AC or the accessories?
The pulley/belt issue has been weird. When I installed it there was no noise. But about 4K miles later, I changed the timing belt and figured I'd change the drive belt while I was at it. I used a gates drive belt. After about 500 miles it started to make noise, especially with the AC on. If I sprayed the TOP of the belt (not where the grooves where), with a bit of lubricant, it would quiet down. But if I sprayed the inside of the belt where the grooves are it would squeal worse, presumably from slipping. Eventually I got tired of doing that so I purchased a belt manufactured by Continental. Since I've put that one on, I've had no noise.
Also, another observation about the pulley is that Honda and Acura simply call it a "crankshaft pulley". It's never referred to on OEM parts sites, auto parts stores or tech manual as a harmonic balancer, dampener, crankshaft damper, etc. However, on other OEM parts sites I've looked at (such as Ford, GM and Toyota) it's referred to as a balancer or dampener. The claim by those who use the pulley are that the crank is "internally balanced". I'm not sure if that's true or if it even matters since it seems that vibrations and resonance could occur either way (which is what can damage the bearings and crankshaft). However, the fact that Honda simply calls it a pulley while other auto manufacturers call it a balancer or dampener makes me think the internally balanced claim might be true.
#29
#30
And here it is. I'm thinking about getting the resonator put in since there's a fair amount of drone but the exhaust note is great. It breaks up really nice when I start her up and on overrun.
#31
Contact @gerzand on IG for all your supercharging questions and needs. He is the go-too person to supercharge 3G and 4G TL. Also get your hands on Ktuner and either HFPC/PCD and work your way back in the exhaust portion. Most heavily bolt on FWD 3.5L will get min 271+WHP with a tune which is not bad at all to start.