dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

I wanted to start a list of speakers that are 2 ohm that can be replaced in the TL.

I have a 2013 tech and no plans to add a amp to my interior speakers, but would like a bit more full sound.

So this weekend I went on a search for 2 ohm speakers and made a list.
I have personally never used CDT but always heard good things about them.

CDT
http://cdtstore.com/coaxials/hd6ex.htm
http://cdtstore.com/2ohm/cl6ex2.htm4
http://cdtstore.com/2ohm/eu6cx2.htm

Infinity & JBL

http://us.infinitysystems.com/produc...appa-629i.html
http://us.infinitysystems.com/produc...ef-6502ix.html
http://us.infinitysystems.com/produc...appa-639i.html

http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/pro...y#pdp-features

http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/pro...larProductOnly
Some of the popular ones are

With the Harman brand speaker it looks like most of them at 2 ohm stable so it should not be a issue.


Now I have not heard any of these in person, I would love to get your opinion on how these sound in your TL with stock amp.

Also if you can think of any other 2 ohm speaker please list them

dwest1023

It seems these are all 2 way speakers. I would not want to add an addtional tweeter.

Packagingpro

I agree with D-West,
You would want to go with a component speaker system. (Seperate tweeter/Woofer) Not sure if the non-tech models have a tweeter mounted up top like the tech package. If not, you would improve the sound quality by bring the tweeter up higher near the door pillar.
Also, If you go with the 2-ways listed, there would be no benefit unless the non-tech had crappy OEM 2-ways. Just my 2 cents!

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

You can go component, but for straight replacement without an amp I do not see additional benefits. The factory tweeter has its own separate channel, and it does not work like traditional components.
So to answer your question sure you can have tweeter where the factory tweeter is but it will be a pain running wires to the component crossover in the door.

This is why I didnt list them, but you are free to do so .

So you say there is no benefit from just replacing the stock speakers with aftermarket one with the same load?

Packagingpro

There is a definitely a benefit if you go with a 2 OHM Speaker over OEM. I personally would not add another 2 way speaker, if you have a tweeter already mounted in the pillar. Just my opinion. If it sounds good, go for it. You can always return the speakers if your not satisfied!

alxhastngs

I am not 100% familiar with the factory setup, so please correct me if I made a wrong assumption here.

The factory tweeter is its own separate channel. The factory speaker in the door is just a single driver, no tweeter and no cross over box. The channel from the factory head unit very likely has bandpass filter adjustments applied at the head unit as opposed to an inline crossover setup in place right before the door.

All of the speakers you have listed are two-way components which include a crossover of some sort and tweeters. If you were to directly replace the factory drivers in the door with these, the tweeter would essentially be useless because that speaker channel is not even receiving the high frequencies for the tweeter from the headunit.


The stock tweeter location on the A-pillar is actually a significantly better location than locating it by the driver in the door near the footwell - moving the tweeter down there would really mess with the OEM stereo adjustments which are configured for the dash location.


Perhaps you could better describe what exactly are you looking for in the sound? More/deeper bass from the door speakers? Better/louder high end detail from the tweeters?

Replacing the individual components is the way to go here. You are looking for single middbass drivers or tweeters for replacement.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Just a thought, I guess we can use component to replace the stock speakers without the crossover that comes with the aftermarket speakers.

The speaker in the door is a 2 ohm and the tweeter in the ELS is a 6ohm I believe.

So if all the loads match up I cant think of it being a issue.

sockpuppet

This thread makes me feel stupid...or at least confirms how little I know about audio components.

probmxstyle

I think what you should really be looking for are either 2 ohm component systems or 2 ohm midbass drivers. I think a majority of complaints for the TL's system comes from the midbass drivers blowing out. If there was a heavier duty 2 ohm midbass driver for the door, that would be awesome.

Grateful Laz

I had the reference components in my last car and left them I would love to have them back!! Buy last years model for 1/2 price. If my car wasn't only a month old I would buy the last 2 sets and install them but I hate taking a car apart that is new and a sound shop would want almost a grand. $220 and you could replace the two door - 2 rear and the front tweeters


These are what you want and they would make a world of difference.

KAPPAPERFECT6.1
REFERENCE 6030CS
REFERENCE 6500CX

Packagingpro

The other reason for mounting the tweeters up high is to get staging. You will hear the sepaeration in the voices better. In addition, high frequencies, which is what a tweeter produces, are directional. They are best placed as close to ear level as possible facing the driver/passenger. The lower the frequency, such as mid bass and low bass are uni- directional and positioning is not as important. Your door also acts as an enclosure for the mid bass. Of course, there is also the center channel, which enhances the staging as well.
If you run 2 sets of tweeter, one up top and one below, it will mess up the staging.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Partly true, the speakers in the TL are all full range with the exception of the tweets and sub. If you did separate 2 way components on a single channel with tweeters mounted high and midbass in door below the sound wont blend and imagining will be off.

For best sound and imaging, given you have an amplifier; Is to do a set of components in the door with midbass and tweets about 6 inches apart and another set of tweets high as possible and not close to the ears; crossover the sub at 80hz (+/- 5%), midrange at 75 to 2500hz, bottom tweeter at 2500 to 10,000 hz, and super tweeter at 10,000hz+.

In my 2001 TL I have custom 3 way SPX alpines and my eclipse deck lets me adjust the timing of my speakers so they always maintain perfect imaging, but there is no reason I would ever spend 10k on a system so the kappa coaxial are a cheap mod, if they don’t sound right I will take them out and ELS back in. Also I am going to go with the new kappas which have the soft dome tweeter for a much warmer sound.
Speakers I have listed above are just for replacing the stock ones on els amp. If I was amping and processing the speakers and sound, then no I wouldn’t recommend going coax in front doors.

Brew0360

The speaker output in the TL are not full range. In order to receive a complete full range signal, the front/rear and sub signal will need to be summed.

mossman77

Yes, this is a 3-year-old thread but I felt the need to add to it...

Based on the factory wiring diagram, the tweeters are wired in parallel with the front door drivers, which means they are not on their own channel. There has to be a high pass filter somewhere between the door speaker and the tweeter. The diagram I am looking at is for a 2011 TL base non-NAV and NAV models. I can't say for sure whether all models are wired this way.