Hey Guys,

I just picked up a 12W7-3 and looking to get a 1000/1 or V2 model to push it. Is the Alternator strong enough on the 2010 4G Base TL or would I have issues? Thanks in advance!

Or do you think a 500/1 would be ideal and do it's job?

 

I suggest the JL xd line, I have a w7-10 with a JL XD 600.1 amp. The xd line is smaller, digital, run cooler, more efficient and thus less draw on your car's alternator/batteries. I have no issues with mine and love it. They are tiny amps with big sound!

 

A 600.1 xd would more than push your w7 BTW

 

So let me ask.. Would you suggest a XD600.1 or the HD750.1 for my 12W7-3? Also does anyone here have the wiring diagram for the stock system or know where I can find it?

Thank you!

 

I still suggest XD, but remember, It's just my 2 cents! As for wiring I have no diagrams, we just used a line output converter on the stock subwoofer leads and hooked up the amp. That way, my factory subwoofer control will control the aftermarket sub.

 

Thanks Bro! So Im leaning towards the following setup now. Just time and patience!

• JL 1000/1 v2
• JL (1) 12W7-3
• JL 400x1 - 6.5" JL's
• JL Clean Sweep

Yellow Top Battery
0 Guage Wire
Ect

Hopefully this will be a clean, MEAN system!

 

Looks like a good setup, let us know how it works for ya.

 

omg, that sounds like a damn good setup to me. cant go wrong with jl

 

Thanks and will do, Now I need to find of it cheap! LOL

 

jl and cheap usually dont run hand and hand, lol. best bet is to look on craigslist. just make sure you can test it all before hand. i know i can find some killer deals here in san diego's craigslist for them but you need to test them.

 

Thanks and Yeah Im all over Craigslist! The hell with new, It would be like $4k

 

Just know that JL only honors the manufacturer's warrenties on new JL products bought ONLY through authorized JL Audio dealers. I highly suggest you check out a dealer as they can get the products for way under MSRP. I only dropped $350.00 for my brand new w7 10 with an MSRP of $639.99 on sites like crutchfield. Also, make sure you realize that w7's are 3 ohm, not the standard 2 or 4. What type of box are you planning on putting it in?

 

Yeah I know! Im leaning towards a sealed enclosure since I listen everything minus country! lol Also smaller and keeps the bass inside, I don't need to turn heads. It will happen regardless but not my point!

Im kinda torn now between the
1000/1v2 & 450/4v2
or
HD750/1 & HD600/4



Have the W712-3 and the Clean sweep so far! Work in progress!

Have a suggestion on the mids and highs? Trying to keep all JL if possible!

 

I went the cheap route and kept my factory amp so I simply replaced all my factory speakers and tweeters with infinity kappas as they require low rms wattage. If you are going to be using an aftermarket amp to power your cabin speakers then go JL all the way. Just keep in mind that light cutting/modification may need to be done on the rear door speakers mounts as well as the center channel mount. I also recommend some sort of dampening on the rear deck as it is flimsy and will resonate. I would go with the HD's, they will run more efficiently and they have much newer tech then the old slash v2 series. I went with the vented enclosure, and I have to keep the bass turned waaay down lol. I've never maxed it out cuz it hurts my ears before I can reach the max. That's just with a 10, I can only imagine the 12. How do you plan to incorperate the box with your trunk?

 

god i wish i could have a jl setup, but for now ill stay content unless i can find a trade i have this sub setup with box http://www.kicker.com/content/CompVR...ized_Sub_Boxes

works pretty well for now. still want to upgrade my amp and cap though

 

sorry about the thread steal. as far as the w7 i dont think i have ever seen it in a sealed box, i thoughtt it was always made to be ported or slotted.

 

please correct me if im wrong

 

Yeah Im sure it pounds and this kinda scares me! LOL but should be well worth it in the long run! As far as incorporating it, Im not sure as my freind will be doing the install. He competes in sound competitions, So Im sure it will be good! Ill upload some pics shortly of his work!
What amp are you running?
They can go sealed or ported. From what I have read both will knock your brain lose but sealed keeps the BASS inside the car and ported displaces it more outside.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?series_id=9
Just did! lol

 

Any suggestion on the Mid's and Highs?

 

With what your looking at already id go with at least JL C3's or C5's. Or go all out and get ZR's. Im sure you'd be happy with any of them though. Im doing C5's all the way around in my TL. Full JL setup like you.

 

Seems us Acura enthusiasts agree on JL Audio lol. Apparently we have good taste BTW when building the box for my TL, we contacted JL Audio directly on almost a daily basis. Apparently, the W7 line is designed to sound best with vented (not ported) boxes. That being said, the speaker will sound amazing in a sealed box as well.

 

Sweet! Thank you! Quick question.. Are the speakers in the car now all 6.5"?

Also decided against the HD amps, Going with Power and the v2 slash... 1000/1 and 450/4 v2's

 

4x6.5's and they are midbass. 2 in the front doors with the front door highs running to the A pillar tweeters. The rear door speakers are 3.5 inch as well as the center channel. The rear door 3.5's act ash the mid/high range to the 2 6.5 midbasses on the rear deck. So in total you have 4x6.5, 3x3.5, 2x1" tweeters, and 1x8 sub.

 

BTW those specs I gave were for tech package.

 

I have the base model. I know where Im going in FL.. LOL

Same amount though for base?

 

I am unsure about the standard setup, I don't think the rear door 3.5's are in the standard setup but I'd check on that if I were u.

 

By the way, don't you love how the "premium" ELS sound system speakers are made in Mexico? After blowing two factory speakers, that's when I decided to upgrade my system.

 

LOL! Either that or China, I'd probably want China though!

Okay so I picked up the4 HD series Amps!

• HD750/1 w/ Bass Knob
• HD 600/4

Now running those two amps and the clean sweep, What Size battery do you think I would need? Also do you know the Amp output on our alternators? Thanks!

All I need now is the wiring, Battery ( I think ) and the box built for the 12W7-3

 

I think your stock battery would be fine since you got the hd amps, but I would go with a yellow-top if you can swing the extra bucks. Only issue I would see is if you can still place the plastic engine covers over a taller-than-stock yellow top. As for the alternator output, I do not know the ampreage(sp?), but with the amount of electronics on our vehicles, I would think you'd be just fine adding a couple of digital amps. I'm excited about your setup, did you decide on speaker replacements?

 

Thanks bro! Well Im going to go with the C5 up front and C3 or C2 in the rear. ZR are really nice but just too much for me!

Also going to see what happens at first without the battery and play it by ear! Im excited too, Just want it in already! hahah

 

You will lose the 5.1 setup unless you do one of the following:

1. sweep the front and rear deck, keep the center and side stock and add a line driver for the sub.
2. Drop the sweep and get a JBL MS-8 (but leave the center channel connected stock).

I started with 2 sweeps but moved on to the JBL MS-8. The MS-8 auto sums, time corrects and has a 31 band EQ.

Here is the thread related to my install.

https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-294/4g-awd-tl-aftermarket-amps-speakers-install-758480/

Will update with pics of the MS-8 soon. My work was done professionally so I won't be able to answer your detailed questions about wiring.

Buy a Yellow Top battery and also some type of capacitor for your amps. I chose two Batcap Model 400. You will be asking alot from your battery if you don't.

Good luck.

 

I have used a lot of JL stuff. The 450/4 is the best component amp that I have ever used. Put the midbass on the 150 channels with the bandpass. 75W is enough for most people running some tweets. The 450/4 has no rival that I know of, or have used - although I am sure that there is one out there.

As for the rest, your stock alternator will be fine for all but extreme listening.

I think that you can do better with components, sub and sub amp, so look around. I personally think that the 1000/1 is a power hungry dude that does sound good at a high cost (electricity and money) - get a true D class amp and run it at 4 ohms if possible to maximize the efficiency (you should be able to get better than 86% if you look around). W7 sounds OK, but not great - W6 sounds better to me, but does not take lots of power. The W6 also does better in a sealed box IMO. The JL components are just a little above average. This is all opinion, so take it for what it is worth.

Save your money on the rear speakers and buy better fronts - they are just for fill for most, and the stock should be fine. Do the rears in the 4G even have tweets, or just mid bass?

 

My apologies. I looked at the beginning of your thread and say that your TL is a base. No need for the MS-8 unless you want some functionality. I would still get the yellow and some type of capacitor.

 

Yellow top I plan on anyway and yeah I saw you just noticed Im a base model
Well I already ahev the 12W7-3 and just picked up the HD 750/1 and HD 600/4 Im going to go with the C%'s in the front and who knows in the rear. Maybe nothing and leave stock or maybe a C3

I've heard the W7 in a sealed box and I was blown away, Also heard it in a ported box and it blew away!! hahahah!

Going to prob get a 2 Farad Cap

 

thought that caps were a waste of money...

 

I think if you have the right power supply you won't need it, If you skimp on the supply it can help. Ill have to see what happens and what my installer suggests. Will be updating as I do this!

 

yeah i think if wired properlly and with upgraded battery you should be ok. i have a PDX 4.100 and 1.1000 running in my tsx with no problems. i upgraded the battery and repalced some of the wires for the electrical system

 

I really doubt you'll have any need for a cap, even with a stock battery. But I still reccommend a yellow top. And defo change out your stock rear speakers, even if you don't go top of the line, the panasonics that are factory (yes they are panasonic) are garbage and will blow with light use eventually. Just look at the blown speaker thread under audio.

 

Don't know if you had a chance to look at my install thread but you will see that I tore the entire car apart to have my system installed. I can tell you that Honda Accord/Acura TL altenators (my 4th aftermarket system install - 2000 and 2002 Accord Coupes and 2004 TL) leave very little amperage to run aftermarket components. Without changing that alternator you will need to supplement for power drains (aftermarket battery/caps, etc). There are those who think that caps or batcaps are just a waste, but I can tell you from experience that when you run multiple amps that produce high voltage regardless of the ohm load (JL amps), your electrical system will be taxed. Spend the time/money on the front end or you will end up spending that and more to get those components installed later.

Food for thought.

 

While I agree for the most part, if you use high efficency amps (class D), their draw will be significantly lower than analog amps. Amps have come a long way since I first started installing car audio. Back then you needed multiple batteries, multiple caps, and possibly an upgraded alternator to achieve the same quality and spl that can be had rather easily today with little modification. But it's always better to prepare for the worst I suppose...