Would you change engine oil at non-dealer shops?
#1
Would you change engine oil at non-dealer shops?
such as pepboys.... cheaper than dealer, and dont really it's worth the hassle to go to dealership just to change engine oil....
#2
I did. Just get it recorded and keep the receipt. 50% less than dealer.
#3
Instructor
I get a pretty good deal at my dealership. $45.00 oil, filter, tire rotation. One of the reasons I have the oil changed at the dealership is for the warranty. I worked in car stores for almost 25 years and I've seen how warranties on engine failures work. On high dollar repairs, in most cases, note I said in most cases, not all, the factory rep has to get involved. One of the first things the rep looks at is the car's service history. If the car has not been serviced at the dealer, they ask the owner provide receipts for the oil changes. If they can, not a problem, as long as they show mileage. If they can't provide any record, then the repair becomes a huge hassle for both the dealer and the customer. I've seen only one case where the factory rep flat turned down the repair. The others took weeks to get approval. Those times that the oil was changed in house so to speak, the engine repairs were approved on the spot. In some cases outside of warranty mileage, the factory paid part of the repair.
#4
Drifting
One thing to consider is that if you are on good terms with your dealer (i.e., you regularly take your business to them), they may be more likely to help you out in a questionable warranty or post-warranty situation. Of course, that's not a huge issue with Acuras, but it never hurts.
I stopped using the quick lube places after one of them damaged a starter wire on a car I used to own. The car would refuse to start, but only on a sporadic basis (usually when I was late, wearing a suit and/or it was raining). The quick lube place refused to take ownership of the problem and it took a lot digging before my mechanic could ascertain the problem.
I stopped using the quick lube places after one of them damaged a starter wire on a car I used to own. The car would refuse to start, but only on a sporadic basis (usually when I was late, wearing a suit and/or it was raining). The quick lube place refused to take ownership of the problem and it took a lot digging before my mechanic could ascertain the problem.
#6
Instructor
I wouldn't mind going to the dealer except the closest one is 55 miles away. There is a Honda dealer about 30 miles away that I guess I could try. So I am thinking about just doing it myself. I only have about 1400 miles on my TL, so I haven't had to make the decision yet.
Back to your question though. I never have liked the quick lube places but if you were to stop and chat with them I'm sure you could get a feel if they knew what they were doing.
Back to your question though. I never have liked the quick lube places but if you were to stop and chat with them I'm sure you could get a feel if they knew what they were doing.
#7
Grandpa
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I hate to make people mad, but I *never* go to the dealer for regular maintenance.
It's not that I'm philosophically opposed to it, or that they're mean and hateful or anything. It just takes too long, they're an hour away from my home, and they are expensive.
If they could change one or two of those three things, I'd probably go there.
:-)
It's not that I'm philosophically opposed to it, or that they're mean and hateful or anything. It just takes too long, they're an hour away from my home, and they are expensive.
If they could change one or two of those three things, I'd probably go there.
:-)
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#8
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I still tease a shop in my home town because I had to show them how to change the cabin filter.
The last time I was in there, they got a computer warning pop up saying it was time to change the transfer case oil and to ask me about it. Well...I've got 40,000 miles on my car and it's not like I'm racing up and down the Blue Ridge Parkway. :-) It was *not* time to change the transfer case oil.
But, what can you do. You adapt, educate, and deal.
The Acura dealer is an hour away. They will make an appointment for you regardless of whether there's a snowball's chance in hell they can get it done when you've asked. It is expensive. It always takes longer than you've got. There's never a loaner car to take, or a rental car to pay for.
I'm sure they know what they're doing, but that's all just too much trouble.
#9
Three Wheelin'
I have four vehicles right now that I change my own oil on and I use Synthetic on all of them.
#10
Drifting
Not unless I have too, and I haven't had too yet. Besides, my dealer has free oil changes and I use synthetic (which I bring my own supply of).
#12
US Navy Seabees
do it all the time. I have been going to the same Valvoline for 5 years now.
#13
Three Wheelin'
+1. This is the one DIY job I do regularly on all our cars and motorcycles - all with synthetic. But to answer the original question: there's no reason why a competent non-dealer can't do the work for you. Just make sure they use a good-quality oil/filter. Some of the cheaper places use recycled materials.
#15
Racer
I've love to know, too. IDK what my car has in it (I'm still a girl regarding some of the things w/ the car!) If it doesn't have synthetic, I'd be willing to switch over if it really had a benefit - I drive 90% of my miles on the highway, going 75mph+
I went to the dealership for my first oil change - it was like $35. I was having other stuff done too, so I was able to make a reservation for a loaner. All in all, it was a painless experience.
I have a Honda dealership that I am VERY familiar and friendly with about 3miles from my house, and get family pricing on services - I'll call when it gets close for my next oil change and see what they quote me.
Depending on my dad's schedule, he's volunteered to do it, since he changes the oil on all his Jag's & on my mom's Dodge. Coordination of schedules is key, hence why he hasn't changed the oil on my cars for probably over a year. Convienence is huge for me!!
#17
The Acura dealer here charges 9.99 for an oil change. I take them Mobil 1 5qt for 24 bucks from Walmart. So all in sythetic oil change is 34 bucks. I have discount rotate my tires every 5k and if the oil change coincides with that then I have them do that as well for another small charge.
#19
Hell, I'm a lunatic rebel... I get my oil changed at Walmart on my 3G.
#20
Three Wheelin'
I've pissed away a lot of money on synthetic oil because I'm a gear head and I believe that you judge how passionate you are about your hobby by how much stupid money you spend on it.
I've put synthetic in more cars and motorcycles than I can count, and no - I don't think there is any measurable difference in performance. When I retire and am on fixed income (which is coming sooner than later now) I will probably quit using it. But in the meantime it just feels good to me.
I've put synthetic in more cars and motorcycles than I can count, and no - I don't think there is any measurable difference in performance. When I retire and am on fixed income (which is coming sooner than later now) I will probably quit using it. But in the meantime it just feels good to me.
#22
Three Wheelin'
I would agree that there is probably no performance difference between synthetic and dino. I have heard that synthetic helps engines run cooler but it's just something I've heard. That being said, I choose to use synthetic for the peace of mind as I don't drive as many miles as some and end up with longer-than-usual durations between changes.
#23
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If by performance you mean horsepower, my personal dynamometer tests would say, no, it does not make any discernible difference in performance. I'm aware of tests to the contrary, but it's my personal experience that there's no discernible difference in regular use.
I use regular oil in my TL daily driver, and really rather expensive synthetic oil in my track car because whatever you think about the "performance" difference, the synthetic oil definitely lasts longer and provides better protection in 10/10 situations of extreme performance that we'd none of us (I hope!!) experience in our day to day operations.
I use regular oil in my TL daily driver, and really rather expensive synthetic oil in my track car because whatever you think about the "performance" difference, the synthetic oil definitely lasts longer and provides better protection in 10/10 situations of extreme performance that we'd none of us (I hope!!) experience in our day to day operations.
#24
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That is just one old man's opinion, of course.
#25
takin care of Business in
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Diy ftmfw !!!
#26
Racer
Hello
This is my first post to AcuraZine ... but I figured it was due time.
I have the following:
2000 Honda CR-V with 160K, no corrective repairs.
2009 Acura RDX Turbo SH-AWD with 37K, no corrective repairs.
2012 Acura TL Advance with less than 1K, no corrective repairs.
I am a lubrication specialist in support of the Genuine Honda/Acura program for ConocoPhillips.
Let's try to answer/respond to some of the questions/statements seen above in this thread. This will be a combination of fact and opinion, but I will try to stick with the former and limit my bias.
1) I won't let any place touch my car that could have their credentials questioned in the event of a warranty claim. I absolutely stick with those that have "paid their dues" and have the competency to work on my car and fully inspect it. You would be surprised what a REALLY good tech can find when he does a cursory inspection.
2) Definitely keep all receipts IF your car is under warranty. You completely have the right to service your car wherever you please. Just remember that Acura technician are trained to do so AND they have folks to call when they have questions and need assistance.
3) Relationships are everything ... personal and business. Those that are loyal to a dealership can USUALLY expect the same in return. IMO, it does help - but there are no guarantees. In addition, it isn't ever fair to ask for something you aren't truly entitled to.
4) Plenty of dealers use/stock synthetic. You can always ask them to install it into your vehicle.
5) Testing your used oil is a GREAT process. The concept is no different than having blood work done on yourself. It gives "the doctor" a chance to help you before problems manifest themselves AND it lets you know if the service interval is adequate - among other things.
6) Synthetic DOES make a difference - but it is small, if noticeable, in respect to performance and fuel economy. Where it really shines is in the protection it offers. There is a significant difference in the composition of synthetic oils ... but it is too long to delve into here.
7) 5w30 and 5w20 are synthetic blends ... all of them. That is as long as they carry an ILSAC GF4 or GF5 designation OR an API SM or SN designation. The quantity of synthetic stock isn't phenomenal, but it is there or it wouldn't have passed the certification tests. Most reputable oil companies won't market a low concentration as a "synthetic blend". They reserve that designation for a product with a significant percentage AND charge a premium for it.
8) Honda/Acura 0w20 is a synthetic blend, barely. It has about 90% synthetic base stock and the balance is conventional. This was enough to pass the JAMA testing and it saves a few cents per quart ... which does add up. Honda/Acura also offers a "Fully Synthetic" 0w20 for an upcharge.
9) I most definitely recommend the appropriate viscosity. In the case of the 2012 TL, that would be 0w20. Using a conventional oil would void the warranty, cause excess wear, rob the engine of performance and lower fuel economy. These engines are specifically designed for the lower viscosity - they not only need it, they benefit from it.
I hope this helps. I am NOT trying to be a big mouth on my first post, just trying to share 30+ years in the business.
Jim -
I have the following:
2000 Honda CR-V with 160K, no corrective repairs.
2009 Acura RDX Turbo SH-AWD with 37K, no corrective repairs.
2012 Acura TL Advance with less than 1K, no corrective repairs.
I am a lubrication specialist in support of the Genuine Honda/Acura program for ConocoPhillips.
Let's try to answer/respond to some of the questions/statements seen above in this thread. This will be a combination of fact and opinion, but I will try to stick with the former and limit my bias.
1) I won't let any place touch my car that could have their credentials questioned in the event of a warranty claim. I absolutely stick with those that have "paid their dues" and have the competency to work on my car and fully inspect it. You would be surprised what a REALLY good tech can find when he does a cursory inspection.
2) Definitely keep all receipts IF your car is under warranty. You completely have the right to service your car wherever you please. Just remember that Acura technician are trained to do so AND they have folks to call when they have questions and need assistance.
3) Relationships are everything ... personal and business. Those that are loyal to a dealership can USUALLY expect the same in return. IMO, it does help - but there are no guarantees. In addition, it isn't ever fair to ask for something you aren't truly entitled to.
4) Plenty of dealers use/stock synthetic. You can always ask them to install it into your vehicle.
5) Testing your used oil is a GREAT process. The concept is no different than having blood work done on yourself. It gives "the doctor" a chance to help you before problems manifest themselves AND it lets you know if the service interval is adequate - among other things.
6) Synthetic DOES make a difference - but it is small, if noticeable, in respect to performance and fuel economy. Where it really shines is in the protection it offers. There is a significant difference in the composition of synthetic oils ... but it is too long to delve into here.
7) 5w30 and 5w20 are synthetic blends ... all of them. That is as long as they carry an ILSAC GF4 or GF5 designation OR an API SM or SN designation. The quantity of synthetic stock isn't phenomenal, but it is there or it wouldn't have passed the certification tests. Most reputable oil companies won't market a low concentration as a "synthetic blend". They reserve that designation for a product with a significant percentage AND charge a premium for it.
8) Honda/Acura 0w20 is a synthetic blend, barely. It has about 90% synthetic base stock and the balance is conventional. This was enough to pass the JAMA testing and it saves a few cents per quart ... which does add up. Honda/Acura also offers a "Fully Synthetic" 0w20 for an upcharge.
9) I most definitely recommend the appropriate viscosity. In the case of the 2012 TL, that would be 0w20. Using a conventional oil would void the warranty, cause excess wear, rob the engine of performance and lower fuel economy. These engines are specifically designed for the lower viscosity - they not only need it, they benefit from it.
I hope this helps. I am NOT trying to be a big mouth on my first post, just trying to share 30+ years in the business.
Jim -
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#27
The Sicilian
If racing cars was my profession and had unlimited funds I would run synthetic oil. Especially if my sponsors/backers were paying for it.
As for the layman as myself, I have always run conventional motor oil in all my cars. I have run 20W-50 in my Mustang since day one with the new motor. Still runs like new 15 years later.
As for the layman as myself, I have always run conventional motor oil in all my cars. I have run 20W-50 in my Mustang since day one with the new motor. Still runs like new 15 years later.
#28
Burning Brakes
Synthetic oil is a gimmick to me. It doesn't affect performance or longevity of the car. I go to the dealer to get regular oil. It costs about $24 dollars for oil and filter changer. I don't think pep-boys or any of the other companies are much cheaper. Plus there was an expose on Amaco how they charged people for work they didn't even do. I am not a gear head so DIY is out of the question.
#29
Burning Brakes
I wouldn't mind going to the dealer except the closest one is 55 miles away. There is a Honda dealer about 30 miles away that I guess I could try. So I am thinking about just doing it myself. I only have about 1400 miles on my TL, so I haven't had to make the decision yet.
Back to your question though. I never have liked the quick lube places but if you were to stop and chat with them I'm sure you could get a feel if they knew what they were doing.
Back to your question though. I never have liked the quick lube places but if you were to stop and chat with them I'm sure you could get a feel if they knew what they were doing.
#30
Rich and Famous
I have only 4500 on my MDX and plan to stay Dino.
I have never used synthetic in any previous car.
The word on synthetic I have so far is slightly less sludge buildup
but not worth the price increase.
If anyone has done oil analyiss on synthetic and dino {same car} please post the data results for all to read ...
If I do other than dealer or independent shop {ie. Quicklubes}
I have learned to always watch them as they do it.
I have never used synthetic in any previous car.
The word on synthetic I have so far is slightly less sludge buildup
but not worth the price increase.
If anyone has done oil analyiss on synthetic and dino {same car} please post the data results for all to read ...
If I do other than dealer or independent shop {ie. Quicklubes}
I have learned to always watch them as they do it.
#31
#32
Racer
I have only 4500 on my MDX and plan to stay Dino.
I have never used synthetic in any previous car.
The word on synthetic I have so far is slightly less sludge buildup
but not worth the price increase.
If anyone has done oil analyiss on synthetic and dino {same car} please post the data results for all to read ...
If I do other than dealer or independent shop {ie. Quicklubes}
I have learned to always watch them as they do it.
I have never used synthetic in any previous car.
The word on synthetic I have so far is slightly less sludge buildup
but not worth the price increase.
If anyone has done oil analyiss on synthetic and dino {same car} please post the data results for all to read ...
If I do other than dealer or independent shop {ie. Quicklubes}
I have learned to always watch them as they do it.
BTW, you wouldn't get squat testing the same vehicle with two different oils ... it would be meaningless data. The proper test would be to chart TWO exact engines over an extended test period. The "driving" would be in the laboratory under controlled conditions - since the engines would have to endure the exact same patterns.
I am not going to be convinced that anyone is "saving money" on a $50K vehicle by going somewhere other than the dealer, OR a competent and fully certified (preferably Honda/Acura) mechanic, for service and inspection. There are too many variables to consider. Simply draining the oil, removing and replacing the filter then refilling the crankcase just isn't enough. IMO, vehicles should get a cursory review, at the same time, to insure general mechanical health and operational safety.
#33
Question for TampaJim
I just purchased a 2012 SHAWD/Advance TL. Just as you did, my dealer recommended 0w20 motor oil. However, when I opened the hood and looked at the oil cap, it has '5w20' stamped on it. Why the discrepancy?
#34
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Jay Wolfe Acura in Kansas City gives free oil changes for the life of the car.
#35
takin care of Business in
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^^^ honestly Steve...I still wouldnt take the car in....I just dont trust the oil they put in....i used change my oil every 5K miles when I was with Mobil1/Penn Plat and 7500 miles with Redline....the MID calls for an oil change approximately every 6-7K miles and if the dealership puts in dino oil, I just wudnt want that in my engine for 7K miles....
EDIT: I dont even know if they change the damn oil or just reset the ECU....
EDIT: I dont even know if they change the damn oil or just reset the ECU....
#36
^ I discussed the "free oil changes for life" deal that John Eagle Acura in Houston offers when you buy an Acura from them with my service advisor and he mentioned that it's bulk oil (Valvoline) that they buy, so it costs them less. Now this may be 5w-20 or similar and they use it in engines that call for 0w-20. Hence, I am not a fan of this gimmick.
#37
Drifting
I understood that for 09-11, the 3.7 AWD motor requires 5W20 and was not recommended for 0W20. Did that change on the 2012s?
#38
Racer
The TL 2WD is 0w20 for MY 2012
The TL SH-AWD is 5w20 for MY 2012
The engines are different and have unique requirements. That's why it is important to look at the cap and read the owner's manual. Good job for paying attention.
#39
Suzuka Master
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I do it myself but if I went to a shop or Wal-Mart etc. I would make sure a new washer & torque wrench are used. The pan is soft & the threads can be stripped out very easily.
#40
Pro