1Lieutenant

Had the short block and intake valve guide seals replaced approximately 2K miles ago due to excessive oil consumption.
Still have no idea why the original block failed. I was able to look at the removed block. Dark black carbon on the piston crowns and coked rings. Mechanic stated all oil burners look like this. I followed the owner's manual faithfully and after break in used 5W-20 synthetic oil religiously with 15% on the MM.

Took a different tack with this one. Following a bit of research I came upon what I would name the "high cylinder pressure" break in technique. Some have called it the "hard" break in technique, but I think it is a misnomer.
Supposedly the majority of ring seating takes place within the first 20 miles!
Picked up the care after engine replacement. Drove very conservatively until the engine was completely warmed up. On an empty, long road, place the engine in S mode and slowly accelerated until the RPMs were at approximately 4500 and held it there for several minutes before backing off the accelerator and allowing for engine braking. Did this for multiple repetitions. Rest of the time until 100 miles, drove only in S mode after the car was thoroughly warmed up which held the RPMs between 5 and 6K most of the time. Good alternation between high cylinder pressures with acceleration and deceleration.

Changed the initial oil at 100 miles using Valvoline conventional oil 5W-30 for 500 miles. Drove mostly in S mode after warm up with this oil change. Change oil again with Mobil 1 0W-40 and Mobil 1 oil filter. Will change at 4K intervals to try to reduce the likelyhood of oil coking the rings (again)

So far, 2K on the Mobil 1 0w-40 and not down a drop!

hadokenuh

Thanks for the update! Great to hear.

On a side note, I just think if the break-in procedure is more involved like you described, car manufactures should perform it at factory, or at least during those new car inspection at the dealership. IF this means to increase longevity. I am not saying you are wrong because I've read both schools of thoughts and they both have their reasons.

1Lieutenant

I never would have broken the block in this way had the original technique been successful!

After researching the high cylinder pressure break-in it made much sense. Only time will tell. I am not advocating this for everyone.
I hope it makes a difference in the longevity of this block. Several different variables which will be hard to sort.
1. The break in procedure
2. The oil. Only Mobil 1 or Castrol 0W-40.
3. The oil change interval. 4K versus MM 15% which equaled approximately 6.5K

Reorge

Thanks for the info. These blocks have been plateau honed, they generally don't need to be "broken in". Carbon buildup will happen for a variety of reasons. Many manufacturers port injection engines are having carbon buildup issues that aren't necessarily caused by oil burning. I started to have a oil burning issue with mine
See my comments in this tread as to how I addressed it. :
https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-...unning-920366/

My solution just mine work for others. Changed my oil the two months ago and the oil was right where I filled it 5k miles before. I currently have 67K miles.

1Lieutenant

Reorge,

Techron did not touch the oil burning issue and evidently did not eliminate the carbon on the piston crowns or coked rings. Not concerned with the 0W40 weight oil as this same engine is spec'd for this oil in other parts of the world, Germany, UK, Australia and Scandinavia.

Not suggesting ANYONE follow my example.

Reorge

More good info. THANKS!