Ribbz96SS

Driving a 2012 TL Elite with the bigger 3.7 motor. Use it to tow my boat around locally which is about 1400lbs total. It towes it no problem. Want to tow something heavier. What’s the heaviest someone has towed something? Much appreciated.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

I just want to point out one thing, your car was not designed to tow and as far as I know, it has a tow rating if exactly zero. Said another way, if you are towing virtually anything which can be called a trailer and you are in an accident, you can be found liable for the accident because, per the letter of the law, you are not towing legally. Now, can you do it safely? Probably, Kind of a judgment call on your part.

SamDoe1

I think you're already pushing your luck with the boat you're towing right now. The car isn't designed to tow anything and, as such, the chassis and brakes aren't designed for the extra load of pulling something behind. The engine is likely more than capable but I'd be concerned about everything else in the drivetrain at this point.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

The owners manual is kind of dumb. First it gives details on determining load and mentions towing as a factor to include:










But then it goes on to say that the vehicle is not designed for towing.









Personally, I'd probably err on the side of caution and not tow. However, if you do, I'd make sure you're not even close to approaching the total weight limit of 850lbs.

kickarsmann

I towed a 2000 trailer on my 2009 TL FWD for 100 miles and I didn't have any issue but the weight of the trailer definitely affected the steering. You want to give it time for cooling if ambient temp is high. I towed a 1000lb trailer for 600 mile round trip and I didn't notice any issue. Just keep in mind to take a break and let the transmission cool down if you tow a heavy trailer.

dv-

Engine and probably brakes are capable (they're similar to the Ridgeline) but you're probably going to cook your transmission sooner rather than later. And the transmission on these cars is already damn touchy. So I think you're committing slow suicide here. FWIW.

If you bought a hitch, it's probably a Class I, which iirc has a 2000 pound tow rating and a 200 pound tongue weight. But the car itself is the limiting factor.

If you look at the inside door sticker, it's got a GVWR of 4600 pounds. Subtract your curb weight from that for the maximum "stuff you can move" number. (About 1,000 pounds, depending on your trim package - which is actually kind of too bad, since that means it doesn't even pass the "four fat guys" test.)

Subtract your physical weight from that and you've got a max tow rating I'd feel comfortable with, although putting all that weight that far to the rear is going to play merry hell with your rear suspension.

Also FWIW, when I was shopping for a hitch for mine (bike rack and camping cargo shelf) I found some places listing the contemporary Honda Accord V6 as having a 1,000 pound tow rating, depending on the model year. So that'd be another guideline.

Anybody who tows has a story about how tow ratings are crap because they totally towed X more than the so-called-tow-rating without any trouble. And it's true that you can do it a few times usually without an issue. But you are wearing out your expensive bits faster. Maybe invest in an aftermarket transmission cooler if you're going to continue down this dark path.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Then there is the whole thing about liability. Should someone have an accident, even if it isn't their fault, and the other party has a shrewd lawyer, you can be found at least partially responsible for damages because you were towing an illegal load. As for what constitutes a "legal load" that is defined by the manufacturer of the vehicle, and no amount of aftermarket towing goodies will change that limit.