Dino4never

So I just bought an 2010 tl 3.7 197k miles the car ticks when you first start it then usually goes away to come back after a while but always at lower rpm’s. From what I can tell searching this is common and usually is the belt tensioner. Due to the mileage I’m going to go ahead and replace the timing belt along with the tensioner and the usual that goes with it. I’ve seen some places were it says that a lot of times it’s also the rear camshaft/some rockers. I have ordered new cams to go in but when I was talking to the dealer they were trying to tell me none of these issues exist and that the engine is just usually loud. They wanted to look at it but I’m not going to take it to them for a $250 diagnosis fee when I have a really good local mechanic who will do everything for $400 in labor. So my question is since I’m going to have it tore down this far am i missing anything else that usually goes wrong/ any advice on anything else to replace while im here. I know it maybe overkill but with this many miles I’d rather do it now when it’s down since any additional labor will cost more in the long run. The car runs really good has no check engine lights and responds amazing when you touch the Petal. But I’m new to Acura’s so I don’t want to over/under do anything. Thanks

BROlando

A bad timing belt tensioner sounds like a gd woodchipper. nothing close to normal.

Cam noise from galled cams sounds like low pitched knocking that is at the same pace as the valvetrain.

Try YouTube searching some videos of tensioner noise and cam noise.

Yes, these engines are kinda...ticky and noisy compared to others. So, just make sure you're not chasing ghosts.

I'll strongly recommend that you with factory, dealer sourced parts for most/all things you plan to replace.

If you do have the timing belt off, replace the oil pump gasket, re-honda bond it, and replace the VTEC solenoid gaskets.

Follow the FSM to do the job correctly.

dregsfan

Do you know if the car had the oil consumption repair (ring job) done?

Dino4never

From what I can tell it was basically a one owner car and was serviced regularly but it doesn’t say what was done so it’s anyones guess at this point. Just constantly oil changes

Dino4never

thanks for the reply. I’ve done a lot of YouTubing but seems to be a lot of variety for the noises of what people claim it is. I know a common consensus seems to be the oil issue so I figure since it will be down get it done. the sound is like a lifter tick almost but the dealer told me these engines don’t have lifters they are direct injection.
I called the dealer for parts and the local one told me they don’t carry stuff for it anymore which I found odd. So I ended up going with the front camshaft from acurapartsworld.cow which ironically is shipping from a Acura dealer in New York I think and the rear from Acura parts warehouse they only had one in stock the other was in back order with no estimated date. I ordered cam seals as well as valve gasket seals from advance and I’ll have the mechanic look to see if they need an adjustment as well. Do you have a place you recommended for parts? I’m still new to this car and the little I’ve driven so far I love it. Even better than a bmw which I know I’ll take some heat for saying that one.

BROlando

Not sure what they think lifters have to do with direct injection. But this car doesn't have direct injection.

It does need valve adjustments every now and then. Yours may have just needed a valve adjustment.

I usually order from curryacuraparts.com, acurapartsnow.com or a bkhondaparts.com (in cases when the parts are also shared with Hondas). Honestly, I just type the part number into google and find the Honda/Acura dealer with the best deal.

Dino4never

im not sure either I don’t have much faith in the Acura dealer here but I only have once Choice. So needs less to say I don’t be taking it there for service. They told me these engines never have issues or get valve adjustments. Granted I was talking to a service tech

BROlando

Lol nice.

Yep, the valve adjustment recommendation per the manual is every 100K or whenever the valve train is noisy.

Typically, though, valve adjustments tighten up as the valve seats wear out. So...duno if the noise thing is really applicable. Good to check it every now and then. 50-100K miles is a reasonable mileage to check.

Not sure if anyone has figured out the cam galling problem, as that does exist too. As an early indicator, a used oil analysis will show the issue (you'll have a lot of iron in the oil).

I find that the car is quieter and smoother when I use 0W40 oil rather than 5W20. So...I prefer to use 0w40.

Dino4never

I haven’t seen anything in regards to any fixes for the cam galling problem but since I’m replacing them anyways I told my mechanic to see if there is any wear and to check the rocker arms as well. Also the valves I walked in with a list and they looked at me like I was crazy. Which besides the oil pump seal pretty much everything else will be done when they replace. I really appreciate the help! I drove it again today I must say it’s worth the money I just dropped into parts lol. This time the labor is the cheap one

BROlando

Valves? You're taking the heads off the car?

Dino4never

no I’m having them adjust them.

Dino4never

I totally just reread that. Auto correct at its finest lol. I’m having them do a valve adjustment and replace the valve gasket

BROlando

lol right on man. good luck with everything

Dino4never

thanks again for the help!

mossman77

My 2011 SHAWD just started the loud ticking this winter. Only happens first thing in the morning when it's cold outside (below 40). I'm assuming it's the tensioner pulley. I'm due for a timing belt change at 122k.

Dino4never

I changed mine and it was still doing it. I also got the valve adjustment but deff do the timing belt. I’ve have no issues with mine and I’ve put 7k miles on it I just hit 200k and I daily it 200 miles

BROlando

Its the tensioner itself that causes all the noise...not the pulley.

The seals or something wears out. It pukes out some of its oil...and loses preload against the pulley.

When you start the car, it takes some time for the tensioner to push against the pulley. The sound you're hearing is the pulley rattle and smack against the tensioner.

The sound stops after a while when the piston extends enough to take up the slack and stop the rattling.

Here's a photo of a failed tensioner. You can see the oil leaking out...and you can see the marks and dents showing that its been acting like a hammer against the pulley.