I replaced spark plugs and 5 minutes down the road the tighten gas cap warning came on. I stopped, tighten it, and our didn't go away. Car is running great, idle is much better with new plugs. Could I have done something wrong when I put everything back together?

 

just coincidence.

you can try resetting the computer by pulling the negative cable from the battery.
if that doesnt fix the tighten fuel cap message, then perhaps the evap purge valve has malfunctioned

 

If it doesn't go away and the cap is tight you can try replacing the cap itself. That worked for me when I had the same problem.

 

did you unplug the vacuum line from the purge control solenoid or the connector to the solenoid itself and forget to plug it back in?

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2010...engine--tubing

Should be this item here

 

Checked tubing. It's all secure. I ordered valve and gas cap, $35 total, last night. So this morning when I started up my car the warning came back on. But then 10 minutes down the road it went away and stayed off. I got to work, turned off car, waited a few minutes, and started her back up. Warning stayed off. I'm gonna keep the valve and gas cap just in case it comes back on at a later date

 

I replaced #2 from here; https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2010...engine--tubing

Once that part is replaced, you should be good to go. NOTE: The Tighten Gas Cap warning will come on/off intermittently as well. You may notice a gasoline smell as well as the vapors are escaping from the engine bay area.

 

Yes that's the part i received. I'm going to replace it this Saturday as well as gas cap and mass air flow sensor. I ordered a high flow one. I know it won't improve HP much, if at all, but hoping for a few more MPGs

 

So what sso what happened? Did you fix it ?

 

Yes I replaced valve, gas cap, and new MAS. No warning lights, no smell of gas, and I'm getting around 2 mpg more then before.

 

Update.
High Flow MAS from JET caused emission codes. Removed and replaced with original. Codes went away. Returned MAS.

 

you threw out all these acronyms like we should just know what they mean LOL....
Please can you repeat in plain english for us dumb dumbs? And what is a JET?

 

Because WHen my Tighten gas cap light comes on i just replace Purge Valve Solenoid and it goes away Until I get seafoam in the fuel tank happy again Ive notice when I use Seafoam a lot in the fuel tank the varnish and carbon it cleans on, when it burns and becomes vapor it seems to make the Solenoid valve sticky
.
But I swear by Seafoam Transtune" it smooths out sifts like crazy. IVe always loved My TL, but always HATED how you can feel EVERY gear shift. I out seafoam transtune in each time I change my trans fluid...
Its now like butter, has been for years.

 

MAS - Mass Airflow Sensor
JET- Manufacturer of Mass Airflow Sensor

 

My 2010 TL occasionally throws this warning on me, which happens more frequently right after I refill, and goes away by itself fairly quickly. I replaced the evap purge valve and the gas cap both with genuine OEM parts. Still the same. Guess I will try out the Mass Airflow Sensor next. I am curious how you determine that it's the root cause? Thank you!

 

I agree with you 100 percent. I do the same thing. Acura says it’s “sport shift” I say I don’t want to feel the shifts. I use trans tune as well for the life of the fluid. Makes a world of difference. Also the exact same thing purge valve is the fix whenever I get that code.

labwork-parts Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid Valve 36162-RMX-A01 Replacement for Acura MDX RDX Honda Accord Civic
its nearly effortless to switch out.

 

I managed to captured some data, does the chart looks reasonable to you? My main question is why the EVAP pressure is positive sometimes - shouldn't the max be zero when the valve is closed, and a negative number when it's open and creates a vacuum?

 

I had this problem come up a few times. I missed this thread, but I saw another where the recommendation was to clean the cap and area where it tightens to.

I cleaned it up and have not had the warning come up since. Knock on wood.

But yes, this is a much more technical discussion of the system and parts that can go wrong. Still...try cleaning first?

 

labwork-parts Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid Valve 36162-RMX-A01 Replacement for Acura MDX RDX Honda Accord Civic
its nearly effortless to switch out.

many of us have had this titan gas cap notice show in the information cluster. And for many of us this has worked the part is nearly effortless to replace and you don’t need to go to the dealership to do it it’s super easy and the part is super easy to replace I actually have several on hand for when my car tells me to tighten gas cap. I went through all that changing the gas cap and cleaning and stuff that you mentioned but that never worked, ever. Almost 100% of the time when you get the tide and gas cap it’s the solenoid purge valve is clogged. So if you use cleaners in your gas tank or things like that or intake cleaners it can get sticky and stay closed and not open to release, which causes that code as I understand it. I am sure someone will chime in with their experience but this is what has worked for me and my 2012 Acura TL super handling all wheel drive 3.7 engine. Feel free to DM me for further detail or if you have any questions comments or concerns, DM means direct message

 

Ya ok so I swapped out the purge solenoid and now I have a P145C emissions code basically straight away.

I guess I am going to have to put the old one back on?

Cleaning my cap and area it tightens to had already fixed the gas light before I did the solenoid change. Now I got new problems lol

 

Just hold off, give it time to cycle through and the code should go off after a few days. Worst case scenario run cataclean from walmart. But Just wait thec ode should clear on its own after a few drive cycles.

 

I had same issue I first changed Gas Cap & didn’t help them put new Purge Valve Solenoid it helped but came back occasionally then I seen someone on YouTube same issue as ours in his 4G Acura TL
he changed his PCV Valve which I tried & warning light never came back on 🤷‍♂️

https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...=pd:1587549,14

 

Alright I will give it some time to get used to it. My first drive it didn't complain. It wasn't until the next day that the light came on.


I will give this a try if the light ever comes back on. 17130-RYE-A01 seems to be the part for me though.

 

did you do any fuel treatment or fluid changed prior to all this happening? I mean before an light came on.

 

I read threads about people using fuel treatments & the gas cap light came on they say it makes the solenoid sticky and can’t open and close right which throws the light
A lot of people use fuel treatments with no issues
But it should never come on for just changing your oil

 

Yeah, but as I said the light has been off for months and never come back once I cleaned it. I changed the solenoid because I had been doing fuel treatments and the advice here was that it could have been because of that.

That being said, the P145C code its doing now is more concerning. Why does it make my AWD light come on?

 

With the amount of carbon that build up on Orings in this car...its likely oil got into the combustion chamber? OR....you're using an oil with high zinc content that could cause emissions codes? Im just guessing

 

What does any of that have to with changing the part you linked? I use the same oil I always do, Pennzoil Ultra Plat. The engine had the factory rebuild done 30k miles ago for 80k total miles. Maybe the part is bad? The obvious answer?

The previous advice was to just drive and it will go away. Were you still talking about the gas light for some reason? Are other people getting P145C codes when they change this part? Its causing the Shawd light to come on as well after driving for 10 minutes. Does that mean my AWD is off when that light is on? There is no code associated for the AWD light, it just comes on after 10 minutes of driving pretty much every time now.

Everything was hunky dory until putting in that purge valve solenoid.

 

I suggest you look at the names of the person posting comment
I’m the one who suggested the PCV valve the person who just commented above is someone else
Put your old solenoid back on and if the new one is after market purchase a Acura OEM solenoid

 

Yeah I know, but he was the one who said to swap the purge valve solenoid which is what I did.

Im assuming that your answer means that when you changed yours, it did not give the P145C error code? It also did not fix your gas light issue until you did the PCV valve as well?

I will go ahead and put the old one back on I guess or would unhooking the battery and resetting the ECU possibly clear it out?

 

The codes you have gotten are all related to the emissions/EVAP components of your car. In the charcoal canister, the purge valve is the opening that releases fuel vapors that were absorbed by the charcoal back into the engine for combustion. A failed purge valve is one of many causes for check engine lights, and it is often difficult for mechanics to diagnose.
Oil contring keep oil from getting into the combustion chamber and keeps gas from getting into the oil. When carbon build up on the rings, they don't do this as well and you have oil and gas where it shouldn't be. Hence, MORE bi products for the purge valve to purge and so on,

 

I didn't have the code until I changed the part. So to confirm: you are saying that the new part has failed? Then why tell me to drive around with it?

 

No no no no no LOL just ignore that last message. The part cannot fail that fast. The part ims ure is good. I said I was "guessing" at why the second (NEW/DIFFERENT) code you said happened. Or maybe I misunderstood,.

 

Just to do a quick rundown of the events:

Gas cap light came on a few times but I cleaned it up and that hasn't happened for 4 months.
There have been no codes of any kind for that period.
I read your post, changed the purge valve solenoid just because.
Drove the car once.
Second time I turned the car on I now have P145C code.
After driving the car for 10 minutes, the SH-AWD light comes on. This has never happened before and only happened once the P145C appeared. I don't see how the AWD is related to it, but all signs point to it.
This video says a bad purge valve solenoid will cause the code


I am thinking that the new part I put on is bad and that I need to go back to the original.

I haven't reset the ECU or anything since the change.

 

I URGE You to wait. The code should clear. CALM Down.

 

To reset the ECU disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes I believe that resets the ECU. Feel free to DM me

 

That is why I keep asking if anyone else got the code? Why is it breaking my AWD? Obviously the code isn't a big deal but if it causes the car not function (AWD) then yeah its a big deal.

I know how to reset the ECU, I was asking if it would do anything to resolve the issue.

You keep telling to me wait, but haven't said why you think it will clear up.

 

1. Tell me the exact code You got.
2. what exactly is your sad doing? Your shawd isn’t properly ? And u have the 3.7 engine woth sh-awd you are certain?

 

I have said about 5 or 6 times the code is a P145C.

I obviously have awd, it makes me very very mad and frustrated that you would write such a thing. You come off as being comically unhelpful by asking that. Its a MT.

Read what I already posted like 4 times.

After changing this stupid purge valve solenoid that you linked I got a P145C code. Now when I drive the car for 10 minutes the AWD goes out. They started at the same time. The first time the AWD light came on was right when the code popped up. (The 2nd drive after install). Now every drive starts with P145C code and 10 mins later the AWD goes out.

 

I had the "tighten gas cap" warning, and it was fixed by swapping the evap purge valve. When I just replaced it, the light still came on, but once it went off, it never came back. I didn't read all the back-and-forth between you and other guys above. A few things to think of:

• Did you get an OEM part? I think it's made by Denso. I got this one from eBay. If you still experience issues with AWD, I would swap the old part back for now just to see whether the new part you have is causing the P145C/AWD error.
• If you haven't done so already, check all the hoses and the plug to make sure they are secure.

 

Thanks for reaching out. I should have updated. The part must have been faulty. Put the old one back on and no more problems. It just seemed crazy that it would cause the AWD to randomly stop working 10 minutes into a drive so I was panicking a little bit.