Your example doesn't directly relate to the situation I experienced. Sure, given the same amount of friction from a surface, new tires will provide more traction than worn tires. But, what if their is little to no friction from the surface in the first place? Newly laid asphalt has a tendency to seep. Especially in hot weather and wet conditions. The oil that seeps out can make the surface incredibly slick. Especially if it is not laid properly. It's not a matter of shedding water. Oil is oil. The biggest mistake I made was not knowing beforehand the road was brand new.

My Dad, who has owned, raced, and rebuilt cars his entire life looked the car over with me after I purchased it. If they were bad enough that they put me at risk, he would have gone inside and ordered new ones... And then handed me the receipt plus 10% for his effort. Lol. Trust me, they are not that bad. The picture really makes them look worse than they are.

I do appreciate the input though. I'm still just looking for a couple of wheels : )

 

I didn't make up the numbers.

A difference of 70 kmph is absolutely normal when comparing between a max-perf. tire (Pilot Super Sport) and a grand-touring all-season tire (MXM4), even within the same tire brand (Michelin). Tire buyers are not stupid. They paid $$$ for high-perf. tires for a season - for far superior performance than the OEM all-season tires.

I have been trying out many different brands and models of tires, and have reported back in the 2G TL and now the 4G TL Wheels & Tires forums since year 2000.

How many different tires have you tried ?

Try asking the same question in any Wheels & Tires forum and people there will all agree with me, but will laugh at you when you tell them that the Conti DW is not any better than the OEM Michelin MXM4.

People there have constantly been reporting back that the Conti DW performs much better than the OEM MXM4.

Do you really know how to drive ?

 

When I bought my Altima I noticed the horrid traction on the road. I had to put new tires on a month after I bought it. A lot of times dealers will leave it up to the consumer to get new tires as long as the metal isn't showing through. Maybe it is different in Canada.

The picture shows bald ass tires to me but it is possible the picture isn't doing the tires any justice???

Anyways, I hope you find some nice wheels and TIRES soon so you can get safely back on the road.

 

Are you really trying to make yourself look foolish - because you certainly are succeeding. I loved your point about a high performance tire being better on ice.

Of course there is a difference between the MXM4 and the DW but the differences are not noticeable in daily driving. There is no possible way that ANY tire can allow one car to go 70kph faster than another on a road that is marked for 60kmh. 90kmh is possible (and 160kmh may be possible depending on the road) but no tire can make such a difference in roadholding. Absolutely, positively impossible and only someone unfamiliar with tires (and who has never driven tires back to back) would make such an outlandish claim.

This is my job. I understand how this stuff works. You don't.

Now, back to the topic.

The OP's tires (regardless of what he claims about picture quality) required replacement and were the cause of his wreck. A high performance tire wouldn't have helped - any amount of appreciable tread would have.

The wreck (you'll note I don't say accident) was caused by unsafe equipment and going too fast for conditions.

Sure, a new road in the rain is slicker than an old road in the rain (as is a wet old road when it hasn't rained for a while), but unless that stretch of road is littered with cars that "lost it" then the OP was speeding (speeding being defined as going too fast for conditions) and I have a couple of guys in the office that would have ticketed him for both.

I don't post unless I know what I'm talking about. I suggest that you start doing the same.

 

May I ask where I said about a high-perf. tire being better on ice ? Don't start twisting my words around when all else fails.

Read my lips : "Michelin Pilot Super Sport max performance summer tires."

This is not about the OP's tires anymore. This is now about you said that the Conti DW (a max-perf. summer tire) was not any better than the OEM MXM4 (a grand-touring all-season tire) in the dry.

Honestly, how many different tires have your been driven on so far ?

Let's hear the comments from members in the 2G/4G Tires & Wheels sub-forums, who DO know how to drive :

https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-298/conti-dw-not-any-better-than-oem-mxm4-875419/

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-100/conti-dw-not-any-better-than-oem-mxm4-875418/

 

..... and in the 3G TL Tires & Wheels sub-forum :

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/conti-dw-no-better-than-oem-mxm4-875473/

 

You sir are foolish. Stop giving the wrong info. I use to instruct at many tracks in Texas. And will tell you Tires make a huge difference. The Dw tires are very good and blow away the mxm4 in grip and wet traction. The mxm4 can be very unpredictable and scary at times. Maybe you need to learn your cars limits and then you will learn what tire is better before calling all these tests, and owners who also know and see the difference between the tires lyers.

 

Actually it is very possible for one tire to let the car be much faster than another. I have personally experienced it on road courses. You obviously have no clue what you are talking about.

 

Of course the DW is a higher performance tire and has more grip.

I said that the OE supplied tires are perfectly fine for the majority of owners and that having tread on the tires is more important than having high performance tires.

You should know that instead of [playing fanboi to your little friend.

Let's look at what he claims.

On a curve that it posted for 60kmh (40mph), the fastest he can go with the OE tires is 90kmh (55mph'ish) while he can go 160kmh (100mph)

Aside from the sheer stupidity of driving nearly 3 times the speed limit on a public road, the premise is impossible - be honest and admit it.

Of course there are differences in tires. I never said (or implied) that there wasn't a difference in tires but the OE tire is an intentional compromise not based on price (just check the prices on Tirerack)

The average TL owner would be up in arms if you told him or her that they had to change tires with the seasons and had to buy new tires every 20k miles (30k km)

Let's recap - the OE tires are fine for the majority of drivers
The OE tires would have worked well for the OP if he still had tread.
Hi Perf tires are better at the limits

 

1) Curves have a recommended speed which is usually much lower than the actual speed limit. It is NOT against the law to go over that recommended speed on a curve.

I have two cars with MXM4s on them. They are fine for daily use, but imho, when it rains, I don't feel as comfortable with them as I would with the DW's I had. The MXM4s slip and slide much easier sometimes unexpectedly.

 

That was my only point and I'm glad you agree - that the OE tires aren't crap and are fine for the majority of owners.

Now that that's resolved we can get back to the topic.

 

OP, i feel your pain! If you search, you may be able to see my thread from last October. I'm sure some of the other members hear will remember my story. I give you the shortened part of my story:

Brand new 2012 Acura TL SH-AWD 6MT....Halloween night, had some guys over. Car was 3 weeks old, had just turned 2,000km. Took them out for a test drive. Temp was near freezing, and road was damp from fog. Approached a round about, dropped it into seccond, entered the round about, and decided to hit the gas on while about to exit. Except, the car slid sideways, passenger wheel hit curb at about 50km/h. Back end also slid and slamed curb. Front took the impact. Pulled over. All warning lights on just like you. Except my front rim actually broke and seperated from the spokes. Spokes were still bolted, 2 and rest of the rim and tire were 2 seconds away from falling off, and the front of the car would have dropped to the ground.

So, my long story short. I had to put it through the insurance. 4k in damages. 2 new rims, control arms, hub assemblies for front and back, tie rods, calliper, rotor etc. I have a pretty long list that i can e-mail you if you want to see. Just PM me. But no sub-frame or frame damage. All fixed, and car feels just as good as new.

Sorry for your luck man, but get it fixed correctly, and the car will be back just like it never happened.

 

Good luck with the fix action OP...Those are some popular rims so you may have to go the dealer route to get replacements

 

Wow, that makes mine seem like a little scratch on the bumper! I'm glad to hear you got her back up and running like new! That's kind of crazy that we had such similar impacts.

I got my parts in on Friday and tore everything down on Saturday with my body shop guy. We basically just replaced the knuckle and a couple other misc parts that we couldn't save in the process. Like the bearing. Once put back together we dropped it down, let the suspension settle. And low and behold... Positive camber! I still have to get it aligned later this week but I'm really hoping the stupid knuckle was the problem. Around $250 in parts and another hundred to my body shop guy is a hell of a lot cheaper than a subframe assembly with labor!!

Ceb... I wouldn't have gotten a ticket for anything. Don't make outlandish statements like that, please.

 

No.