LetMeTLYouAStory

I have a 2010 TL w/Tech package, about 90k.

Last week I took it to a local mechanic for an oil and filter change, that's all.

The mechanic has a good reputation around town. He replaced my alternator about a year ago and did a fine job. Other than that I have had no dealings with them.

The manual says 5W-20. That's what it's always had, AFAIK.

I dropped the car off and didn't give any specific instructions other than I wanted an oil and filter change.

When I picked the car up, on the work order, it said they put in 0W-20 (full synthetic). I do not know why they did this, and I did not have an opportunity to ask.

From what I can read, this shouldn't cause any big issues. I'm fine with using synthetic. It's the weight I'm questioning.

Why would a mechanic do this? Is this ever a best practice? Is it likely a mistake? Do I need to be concerned about it? Should I actually go to the trouble to have him do it over with 5W-20?

Thoughts? BTW, I live in California, where the temp almost never goes below freezing, but hits the 90s on a regular basis in the summer.

Thanks!

BROlando

Is your car a 3.5 (FWD) or 3.7 (AWD)?

Either way, really....

As far as viscosity goes...since you live in CA, 0W20 or 5W20 won't make any difference at all. Since you never get into sub-freezing temps, either one will always be approx the same viscosity as the other.

You're gonna be fine. These engines don't really care what viscosity oil they are given.

They're also spec'd differently in all parts of the world. 0W20, 5W20, 0W30, 5W30, 0W40, 5W40, it all works.

dregsfan

When I had the oil consumption repair done by Acura last year, they put in 0W20 full synthetic and said to use that. Prior to that it had been 5W20 full synthetic, after they started getting excessive oil consumption reports, I guess. When I bought it in 2016 as a CPO they were putting 5W20 dino oil in it, which was the OEM spec at the time it was new.

BROlando

There's no specification requiring conventional or synthetic.

Contrary to popular belief, using conventional oil does little to nothing for oil consumption.

Using a thicker oil might help *if* that was an issue for the OP. But...he lives in CA. So...no difference between 0W20 and 5W20

thoiboi

You’re fine

csmeance

Just be sure to NEVER exceed 5K miles / 1 yr on an oil change despite what the maintenance minder says for your 3.7L engine.

LetMeTLYouAStory

Thank you everyone. I won't sweat it. I just couldn't understand why if the spec is 5W-20 (and that's the ONLY one listed, there are no options or IF IN THIS SITUATION... -type equivocations in the manual), he would take it upon himself to go off the board, as it were.

I have long heard that as long as you change it frequently enough, you could get by relatively fine with darn near any type of oil, any brand of oil, and any weight of oil, and you'd be especially fine doing this in the short term or in an emergency. ("Oil emergency"? Hmmm.) Anyway, I think that's fair--probably some purists might disagree. And I AM talking about motor oil of course, not literally ANY kind of oil. :-)

And it sounds like in this case, using 0W-20 in place of the recommended spec 5W-20 is an especially benign switch, for which in mild and warm climates poses no issue at all. I'll go with that.

Thanks.

P.S. My TL is FWD

BROlando

Ah...that 3.5 doesn't care if you use 5W20, 0W20, or grape jelly.

I think the spec changed to 0W20 later on for 3.5's.

I have a 3.7 (5W20) and live in coldassed Chicago area IL. I use 0W40 typically.

In this case, the oil weight doesn't seem critical to function.

Georgiey22

0W20 has better oil base stocks. My 2023 3.5L calls for 0W20 but have used 5W20 several times. You are fine.

OKC12TL

I use 0W20 since it is on the cap. I'm not really sure about oil weights. I know that 5W20 is going to behave the same at higher temps as 0W20, but I don't know why they don't recommend 5W30 or 0W30 for hotter climates. Does it really matter? I had a 2005 MDX and have run 0W20 since I bought it 6 years ago. No problems. On the other hand, I had a 2003 Lexus ES300 where I ran 0W30 mobil 1. At 200,000 miles, it developed a lifter ticking that led me to drop it for the TL. I must say I like the TL a lot better. Same mileage, bettter handling and much more fun under the right foot.