Need HELP with Negotiations
Hmm... after being at every dealer from Gilroy to Marin, and east to Sacramento over the past couple of weeks....
I'd like details as well! Care to post a scan of your contract with personal info redacted?
D.
brassai....oh, I'm not knocking Saturn. I've never met anyone who ever wasn't less than thrilled with working their deals, and the dealership. And, GM definitely let them languish for way too long without decent products to sell. I don't think their "one price" model did them in. It was 1% of a hundred different things that pushed them out of the market. Not 100% of 1 thing.
Ahh good ol Saturn, my gf tried purchased an Ion way back when they first came out. The dealer mistakenly "lost the keys" to her trade in to keep us waiting, probably tossed them on the roof. They tried screwing my gf on the deal which she would have taken had I not been there, I ended up getting in a cursing match with the Finance Manager and he told me go F myself after he asked my gf "are you buying the car or your bf, tell him to take a hike." We had to be separated, I almost knocked his teeth out. Guy had a lot of balls, we never got the keys back and I had to take a cab home to get a spare.
Ahh good ol Saturn, my gf tried purchased an Ion way back when they first came out. The dealer mistakenly "lost the keys" to her trade in to keep us waiting, probably tossed them on the roof. They tried screwing my gf on the deal which she would have taken had I not been there, I ended up getting in a cursing match with the Finance Manager and he told me go F myself after he asked my gf "are you buying the car or your bf, tell him to take a hike." We had to be separated, I almost knocked his teeth out. Guy had a lot of balls, we never got the keys back and I had to take a cab home to get a spare.
What are the odds of getting a WDP with Ebony interior SH-Awd non tech for 35,000. Dealer told me 36300, but I did not counter yet. I know they can do it, but will they. They are in Southeast NY and the car is in stock.. If I can get it for 35k, I can lease it for 494 a month for 36 months with 15k a year and 1500 out of pocket which includes all taxes and fees. Any feedeback would be helpful!
What are the odds of getting a WDP with Ebony interior SH-Awd non tech for 35,000. Dealer told me 36300, but I did not counter yet. I know they can do it, but will they. They are in Southeast NY and the car is in stock.. If I can get it for 35k, I can lease it for 494 a month for 36 months with 15k a year and 1500 out of pocket which includes all taxes and fees. Any feedeback would be helpful!
Well for me, i can get the TL SHAWD w/ tech for $40k after all taxes and fees, or the TL Base w/ tech for $37k after all taxes and fees
the taxes are (california 9.75%) + about 2% in fees
with $36,300 X 1.11% = $40,293.
So you're not really getting a good deal. You'd be paying what I pay.. but for the non-tech SHAWD model. Try to haggle more.
the taxes are (california 9.75%) + about 2% in fees
with $36,300 X 1.11% = $40,293.
So you're not really getting a good deal. You'd be paying what I pay.. but for the non-tech SHAWD model. Try to haggle more.
Well for me, i can get the TL SHAWD w/ tech for $40k after all taxes and fees, or the TL Base w/ tech for $37k after all taxes and fees
the taxes are (california 9.75%) + about 2% in fees
with $36,300 X 1.11% = $40,293.
So you're not really getting a good deal. You'd be paying what I pay.. but for the non-tech SHAWD model. Try to haggle more.
the taxes are (california 9.75%) + about 2% in fees
with $36,300 X 1.11% = $40,293.
So you're not really getting a good deal. You'd be paying what I pay.. but for the non-tech SHAWD model. Try to haggle more.
DAMN. Here's where I got $38947. It's the best they can do evidently. It's supposed their "cost" including prep, etc. The car also comes with the pro package, in which they can't have undone. Pro package = splash guards, trunk tray and 3M door guards.
Poop.
Anthony's an honest guy, and I do believe him...but
even with the 2250 cash back incentive.
Poop.
Anthony's an honest guy, and I do believe him...but
even with the 2250 cash back incentive.
NEVER NEVER NEVER let them sell you on a payment of any kind. IF you include the financing in the base deal, only concern yourself with APR, down payment, and Term, never payment. Also note that the salesperson and/or sales manager CANNOT commit to any specific financing, and that's why you end up with the finance person after your dealing is done... not to mention that He/she is still in sales and that's where you'll get hit with things like the maintenance and protection packages, etc.
You're better off telling them to their face that you don't CARE about the financing. To make my deals I always say that I have the cash in the bank to write a check on the spot if they can work the deal with you (caution from the drool you'll likely encounter). At the very least, tell them you've already got financing from your bank, credit union or some-such (after all... you did you're homework, know what you want to pay, and HAVE ALREADY talked to your bank or Credit Union haven't you? If not... do not finish your deal till you have done so!!)
Anyway, tell 'em payment means nothing... because after all is done, IT DOES NOT! OUT THE DOOR price means everything to you and nothing more (again, you've done your homework... you already know what the tax is, the license fee, transfer... etc???)
So... you tell them cash out the door... you work out the deal... you're happy. Then you say.. "Oh, by the way, let's talk financing". When they balk at that, you simply say "You have 1.9% APR available. I'd be remiss in not exploring it." Then again... talk APR, down, and Terms... NOT PAYMENTS. You can calculate the payments yourself with a simple amortization program on your smart-phone or computer. YOU do that, keep on point of APR, down, and Term.
Compare it to what your Credit Union/Bank told you. If you get a good deal after that, sign the check. If not, walk out... the car will still be there tomorrow or next week.
Your worst enemy is impatience and fatigue. You'll have at least 3 people tag-teaming you. If you're hard core, they'll do everything to keep you there and wear you down. Get up frequently, take little walks when they're in the Sales Mgr Office schmoozing (you really think it takes the Sales Mgr. THAT long to counter you? nah...) Look up at the salesperson and tell him/her that you're going to take a quick run down the street to Starbucks while they figure out if they really want to work with you. Last time I pulled that one I got offered a cofee, an I countered with Ice Tea... they sent someone for it and paid. I still wandered around the building while the "salesman pleaded my case" and went outside to catch a breath of air.
Don't get impatient, don't let yourself get worn down... and there's nothing more fun than playing the game. It's like poker... an adrenaline rush.
And I'll say it one more time... if you need to walk out and come back another day... Do it. The car (or it's exact sibling), will be there tomorrow or next week or next month.
D.
You're better off telling them to their face that you don't CARE about the financing. To make my deals I always say that I have the cash in the bank to write a check on the spot if they can work the deal with you (caution from the drool you'll likely encounter). At the very least, tell them you've already got financing from your bank, credit union or some-such (after all... you did you're homework, know what you want to pay, and HAVE ALREADY talked to your bank or Credit Union haven't you? If not... do not finish your deal till you have done so!!)
Anyway, tell 'em payment means nothing... because after all is done, IT DOES NOT! OUT THE DOOR price means everything to you and nothing more (again, you've done your homework... you already know what the tax is, the license fee, transfer... etc???)
So... you tell them cash out the door... you work out the deal... you're happy. Then you say.. "Oh, by the way, let's talk financing". When they balk at that, you simply say "You have 1.9% APR available. I'd be remiss in not exploring it." Then again... talk APR, down, and Terms... NOT PAYMENTS. You can calculate the payments yourself with a simple amortization program on your smart-phone or computer. YOU do that, keep on point of APR, down, and Term.
Compare it to what your Credit Union/Bank told you. If you get a good deal after that, sign the check. If not, walk out... the car will still be there tomorrow or next week.
Your worst enemy is impatience and fatigue. You'll have at least 3 people tag-teaming you. If you're hard core, they'll do everything to keep you there and wear you down. Get up frequently, take little walks when they're in the Sales Mgr Office schmoozing (you really think it takes the Sales Mgr. THAT long to counter you? nah...) Look up at the salesperson and tell him/her that you're going to take a quick run down the street to Starbucks while they figure out if they really want to work with you. Last time I pulled that one I got offered a cofee, an I countered with Ice Tea... they sent someone for it and paid. I still wandered around the building while the "salesman pleaded my case" and went outside to catch a breath of air.
Don't get impatient, don't let yourself get worn down... and there's nothing more fun than playing the game. It's like poker... an adrenaline rush.
And I'll say it one more time... if you need to walk out and come back another day... Do it. The car (or it's exact sibling), will be there tomorrow or next week or next month.
D.
I tried to get the dealership to take it off and swap it for all 18" all seasons to save $1k or so, but they couldn't (or wouldn't). But they did agree to keep the rims and ate the cost of switching to 19" HPT all seasons.
I always negotiate by email and telephone. If a dealer cannot follow a phone promise with an email, forget it.
I have pulled printed emails before when i walked into dealerships, demanded to speak to sales manager and got my way.
I live in a small town and here one stands no chance to negotiate, always look up the large urban dealerships with plenty of competition, plead ignorance and lowball at will.
As weird as this may sound in this identity theft age (Equifax full real-time protection with credit check block here, deactivated for things like car buying of course) do give them your social, a spectacular credit rating will have them bouncing like piranhas.
Remember also to check cars.com and autotrader.com, one of them lists the cars by the days listed, the closer to one month on the lot the more excited to sell. Make sure you rub it in too, "you've had this car for a while but i guess you don't want to sell it to me".
I lease so things are even wilder there.
I have pulled printed emails before when i walked into dealerships, demanded to speak to sales manager and got my way.
I live in a small town and here one stands no chance to negotiate, always look up the large urban dealerships with plenty of competition, plead ignorance and lowball at will.
As weird as this may sound in this identity theft age (Equifax full real-time protection with credit check block here, deactivated for things like car buying of course) do give them your social, a spectacular credit rating will have them bouncing like piranhas.
Remember also to check cars.com and autotrader.com, one of them lists the cars by the days listed, the closer to one month on the lot the more excited to sell. Make sure you rub it in too, "you've had this car for a while but i guess you don't want to sell it to me".
I lease so things are even wilder there.
I got mine at Acura at Serramonte. No negotiations involved. I emailed all the Bay Area dealers and got a quote for a 2010 TL SH-AWD-TECH and the lowest quote I got was from Sunnyvale Acura for $36,900. Emailed Serramonte, they said they can beat it by $100. Went there Sunday and bought it for $36,800 before tax/license.
Just email Acura of Serramonte and their internet department, specifically, Dan, will give you that price.
Mine came shipped already with the 19" HPT (summers). Some are shipped with HPTs, some are not.
I tried to get the dealership to take it off and swap it for all 18" all seasons to save $1k or so, but they couldn't (or wouldn't). But they did agree to keep the rims and ate the cost of switching to 19" HPT all seasons.
I tried to get the dealership to take it off and swap it for all 18" all seasons to save $1k or so, but they couldn't (or wouldn't). But they did agree to keep the rims and ate the cost of switching to 19" HPT all seasons.
ugh...Acura of Lynnwood
quick question all.
is it fair for the dealer to call out what they're in the car for?
the car's invoiced at 40,159 + some change correct? i noticed the dealer taking the invoice pricing, cutting the 2250 incentive and then adding on detailing fees and the pro-pack. Why not give the invoice and cut the 2250 incentive (aside from them wanting more $$$; is this fair for me to say and push for a lower #?)?
thanks all!
is it fair for the dealer to call out what they're in the car for?
the car's invoiced at 40,159 + some change correct? i noticed the dealer taking the invoice pricing, cutting the 2250 incentive and then adding on detailing fees and the pro-pack. Why not give the invoice and cut the 2250 incentive (aside from them wanting more $$$; is this fair for me to say and push for a lower #?)?
thanks all!
quick question all.
is it fair for the dealer to call out what they're in the car for?
the car's invoiced at 40,159 + some change correct? i noticed the dealer taking the invoice pricing, cutting the 2250 incentive and then adding on detailing fees and the pro-pack. Why not give the invoice and cut the 2250 incentive (aside from them wanting more $$$; is this fair for me to say and push for a lower #?)?
thanks all!
is it fair for the dealer to call out what they're in the car for?
the car's invoiced at 40,159 + some change correct? i noticed the dealer taking the invoice pricing, cutting the 2250 incentive and then adding on detailing fees and the pro-pack. Why not give the invoice and cut the 2250 incentive (aside from them wanting more $$$; is this fair for me to say and push for a lower #?)?
thanks all!
The pro package. If you asked for it, ya gota pay for it.
If you didn't ask... tell them you're not paying fo it, and if they still want to charge you and you're ambivalent, Just tell them to remove the splash guards, lug nuts, and floor mats. If they balk, walk out.
D.
Tell them that the detailing fee is bull. EVERY other acura dealer will do that as a part of delivery, and even then you an get it done at a detail shop a lot cheaper. Do not pay for that.
The pro package. If you asked for it, ya gota pay for it.
If you didn't ask... tell them you're not paying fo it, and if they still want to charge you and you're ambivalent, Just tell them to remove the splash guards, lug nuts, and floor mats. If they balk, walk out.
D.
The pro package. If you asked for it, ya gota pay for it.
If you didn't ask... tell them you're not paying fo it, and if they still want to charge you and you're ambivalent, Just tell them to remove the splash guards, lug nuts, and floor mats. If they balk, walk out.
D.
Every car has a marketing fee too right? Potentially, I have room to go into marketing fees, holdback, volume sales, advertisement fees...what else?
Thanks D!
Eric
You know what though? All the dealers that are somewhat local to me, won't seem to budge. Both dealers have said no taking off the pro package
Every car has a marketing fee too right? Potentially, I have room to go into marketing fees, holdback, volume sales, advertisement fees...what else?
Thanks D!
Eric
Every car has a marketing fee too right? Potentially, I have room to go into marketing fees, holdback, volume sales, advertisement fees...what else?
Thanks D!
Eric
Right now the dealer holdback is about $800 and the Acura cash to dealer incentive is $2500. You CAN dip into that holdback, but remember that the dealer has to keep the lights on and the sales consultant has to put food on the table. The incentive is a fair negotiating point and you should get most or all of that back.
At the end of the day... $600 over actual dealer cost is about the best you'll ever do. That splits out to about $400 to the dealer, and $200 to the sales consultant, and again, that's at the average dealer. If you're at a very high volume dealer you may be able to eek out another $100 to $150... if they've had the car in inventory for a while, but don't count on it and expect to have a very unhappy dealer on your hands.
You have the ultimate power here... you can walk out, you hold the money. I always stress this in any negotiation where you have that final power. Feel free to walk away... the car or it's exact twin will be there tomorrow, or next week, or next month.
And most specifically, never pay for something you didn't ask for and/or don't want. If they want to sell you the car and it's something they can't remove, that's their problem. The pro package can be removed in 10 minutes at no detriment to the car. If you don't want it, tell them to remove it or not, it's their choice, but you're not paying extra for it.
D.
^ Damn you're good. You should be an inspirational speaker Brassai, in car negotiations
Anyways, we went into today again, and they refused to budge. We walked out, although my girlfriend had to literally drag me out
. I guess I'll have to bring hell another day, month......I'm sooooooooooo bummed
meh
Please, other do feel free to add to the thread. I'll be keeping an eye out...some GREAT tips guys. Thank you all very much!
Anyways, we went into today again, and they refused to budge. We walked out, although my girlfriend had to literally drag me out
. I guess I'll have to bring hell another day, month......I'm sooooooooooo bummed
mehPlease, other do feel free to add to the thread. I'll be keeping an eye out...some GREAT tips guys. Thank you all very much!
See if you can't get some better prices via email or phone on the car you want at some more distant dealers. Check Autotrader to see who has a car in stock you want to buy. If you get a good price from a distant dealer see if the dealers closer to you will beat or match it (your choice). If so, buy it; if not, decide whether you want to travel 100-200 miles to pick up your new car. I would never do this, however, unless the distant dealer confirmed the price via email or some other writing.
Good luck.
Good luck.
^ Damn you're good. You should be an inspirational speaker Brassai, in car negotiations
Anyways, we went into today again, and they refused to budge. We walked out, although my girlfriend had to literally drag me out
. I guess I'll have to bring hell another day, month......I'm sooooooooooo bummed
meh
Please, other do feel free to add to the thread. I'll be keeping an eye out...some GREAT tips guys. Thank you all very much!
Anyways, we went into today again, and they refused to budge. We walked out, although my girlfriend had to literally drag me out
. I guess I'll have to bring hell another day, month......I'm sooooooooooo bummed
mehPlease, other do feel free to add to the thread. I'll be keeping an eye out...some GREAT tips guys. Thank you all very much!
Stick to your guns. They get new cars in every week, and they'll have what you want. If you're being reasonable in your deal (and not paying for stuff you don't want is reasonable)... you'll get it.
D.
Propack, paint sealant etc are profit generators for the dealership.
But, I think where you're running into issues is getting $8,500 for your 100K+ miles trade in with body damage. And, it's in such rough shape, it would be parted out? Depending on how much body damage you're talking about, and if it truly is in bad enough shape that it's only worth parting out, that's a strong offer on a wrecked car.
Take your trade-in to a few other dealers and see what they offer you "as is". Most will try to wholesale it if it's wrecked, though. They'll send it through the auctions and see what it brings. While, 100K miles on an Acura is nothing. 100K miles, plus it being wrecked will spook a lot of dealers since they'd have to put substantial work in it to get it fixed. Plus, there's probably some negative "dings" on it when someone pulls the carfax on it.
That makes for a rough trade-in value. Without seeing your car, and knowing exactly what's wrong with it, it sounds like $8,500 is a strong offer. They're probably overallowing for the trade, but holding strong numbers on the new TL as a result.
^ Damn you're good. You should be an inspirational speaker Brassai, in car negotiations
Anyways, we went into today again, and they refused to budge. We walked out, although my girlfriend had to literally drag me out
. I guess I'll have to bring hell another day, month......I'm sooooooooooo bummed
meh
Please, other do feel free to add to the thread. I'll be keeping an eye out...some GREAT tips guys. Thank you all very much!
Anyways, we went into today again, and they refused to budge. We walked out, although my girlfriend had to literally drag me out
. I guess I'll have to bring hell another day, month......I'm sooooooooooo bummed
mehPlease, other do feel free to add to the thread. I'll be keeping an eye out...some GREAT tips guys. Thank you all very much!
Good luck!
BTW, I'm not sure if/when the new higher invoice pricing takes place.
Rosenthal Acura, Maryland. I went in, took a test drive, and asked for the lowest price for the TL base and TL AWD. He basically took the invoice price and subtracted the 1750 incentive and gave me that.
However, I'm not sure if he was planning to add any additional fees if I proceeded further with the negotiations(Probably).
A question to TL owners, I want the 18 inch wheels, but I realize its a 1K upgrade, and the AWD is a 3K upgrade. Is it worth that extra 2K bump?
However, I'm not sure if he was planning to add any additional fees if I proceeded further with the negotiations(Probably).
A question to TL owners, I want the 18 inch wheels, but I realize its a 1K upgrade, and the AWD is a 3K upgrade. Is it worth that extra 2K bump?
the way it took that simple, slow corner over the FWD model was the clincher. For me, at that moment, it became a no-brainer. Note also that I don't live in snow country nor do I go there for skiing or the like. For you, in Maryland? I'd say its a no-brainer as well. Get it.
D.
You guys (& gals) in Calif kill me! Here in Orlando, FL I got a quote from one of the only two dealers in a 100 miles radius for an '10 SH-AWD Tech Auto for $38,600 BEFORE fees and tax, AND one fee is a $649 Dealer (profit) fee! Haven't counter offered yet, I'm working to get my '07 TL Type-S all pretty'd up to get the best trade, had to put the original gun-metal grey Type-S wheels back on it and now I have TPMS ERROR. Anyway, congrats to you Calif folks for getting great deals.
You guys (& gals) in Calif kill me! Here in Orlando, FL I got a quote from one of the only two dealers in a 100 miles radius for an '10 SH-AWD Tech Auto for $38,600 BEFORE fees and tax, AND one fee is a $649 Dealer (profit) fee! Haven't counter offered yet, I'm working to get my '07 TL Type-S all pretty'd up to get the best trade, had to put the original gun-metal grey Type-S wheels back on it and now I have TPMS ERROR. Anyway, congrats to you Calif folks for getting great deals.
^ Damn you're good. You should be an inspirational speaker Brassai, in car negotiations
Anyways, we went into today again, and they refused to budge. We walked out, although my girlfriend had to literally drag me out
. I guess I'll have to bring hell another day, month......I'm sooooooooooo bummed
meh
Please, other do feel free to add to the thread. I'll be keeping an eye out...some GREAT tips guys. Thank you all very much!
Anyways, we went into today again, and they refused to budge. We walked out, although my girlfriend had to literally drag me out
. I guess I'll have to bring hell another day, month......I'm sooooooooooo bummed
mehPlease, other do feel free to add to the thread. I'll be keeping an eye out...some GREAT tips guys. Thank you all very much!
Just purchased my TL base for $31.2k before ttl. We have 3 Acura dealerships within a 45 min drive so I was able to do some bidding. First off, I let each place know off the bat that I wasn't in urgent need of a new vehicle, but I can buy it today if the price is right. I'm not trading in and I intended to put at least 50% down or pay it all off if I didn't qualify for the 1.9% APR.
I started off negotiating with the internet salesman at the furthest dealership and he told me $32.1k. I was going to counter, but decided the number was fair enough to use as starting negotiations with the other dealerships.
I started off Saturday at 11AM at David McDavid Acura in Plano, TX. I was encountered by a younger salesman and he wasn't being forward when talking about pricing when I told him I already had a quote and was wondering what theirs was. He kept explaining to me that this dealership was the first Acura dealership in the US and is very prestigious. I asked him what benefits does that do for me? Does it add luxury, power, MPG? No, so I don't care. When I told him the exact quote he smirked and said it was a fake quote and no way they could get it below that price because it was lower than invoice. I told him I understand it's below invoice, but I know there's also a factory to dealer incentive, along with a 3% holdback that the dealership makes profit off of. At $32.1k, the dealership is making 5% on me, which I wanted him to beat. He scampered off to the back for 5-10 min, then came back to inform me that the dealership would be competitive, but wouldn't give me a number. I shook his hand, took his card and told him I was going to the other dealership. He tried to talk trash about that dealership and their hidden fees. I smiled and laughed a little before I stated, "Come on, you already know I did my homework, I don't care about the fees, I'm looking at the bottom line. The only hidden fee I see is that you haven't given me a straight answer for the pricing." He then tried to get me to stay and negotiate pricing. I told him to expect a call in a few hours and have numbers ready.
I then ventured to Goodson Acura in Irving, TX (12:30ish PM). They have a huge billboard in front stating they are the #1 volume selling Acura dealership in TX. As I walked towards the door, an older salesman that was finishing his cigarette encountered me. As we walked to the car, we made small talk about random stuff and he told me he used to work in real estate, which gave me a clue that he is a patient salesman and I wasn't going to be able to out sit him. We got back in the office and we both agreed to make negotiations less painful and put all of our cards on the table. I told him I wanted the car for $31k. His eyes shot open really wide and then he asked me how I came up with such a low number. I explained to him all the info I had, and that number was roughly 3% to the dealership and he can make an extremely fast sale if he wants or we can drag it on and waste both of our time and his $/hr ratio would go down the drain with it. He stepped away from the desk for 10 min and came back to tell me that $31.6 was the best he could do, that he negotiated with the manager to meet halfway between the quote I had and the price I was looking for. I sat there as I pretended to work numbers in my head, and told him to go smoke another cigarette as I had to make a couple of calls. First was back to David McDavid, in which the guy told me that the $31.6k was going to have a bunch of add-on fees the salesman didn't include. He even used one of my sources (Edmunds) and stated that their TMV (True Market Value) was at $31.9k. I hung up on him in the middle of his speech because Goodson already wrote up a contract for the price, including all fees. I then called Vandergriff Acura in Arlington, where I had the initial quote from. The Goodson salesman slowly creeped into listening range when I was on the phone so in mid sentence I switched from English to Vietnamese (which the saleman at Vandergriff was also). Vandergriff was only able to match the $31.6K and I told him I was not willing to drive another 30min to negotiate unless the price was lower, which surprisingly he said he couldn't do and call him back if I changed my mind. He hung up, I finished the conversation back in English "OK I will probably see you in a bit." I turned around to walk back in when I noticed the salesman was within 5ft of me at this point. He asked what the magic number was to beat and I told him $31.2K. He said to be patient as he was going to have to snuff the manager and take negotiations into his own hands. After about 15 minutes of waiting, he came back with paperwork for $31,150 and told me that was the only thing he could squeeze off. I had the keys in my hand by 4PM. I even got them to give me 4 oil changes and another detailing job on my car since it was starting to rain by the time we got done.
My advice, do your homework. Use useful sites like edmunds.com and carbuyingtips.com in your research. Be prepared to waste a whole day if necessary. Go in with a full belly and dressed comfortably (but nice). Take control of the conversation and sound confident. Correct the salesman on any wrong info they are spitting out because that's their tactic on you to prove who has more knowledge. And for god sakes, read over every little thing you are about to sign. They "accidentally" left on the $499 VPS security fee for me, which when I caught I told them to stop wasting trees and print up a correct contract. Good luck!
I started off negotiating with the internet salesman at the furthest dealership and he told me $32.1k. I was going to counter, but decided the number was fair enough to use as starting negotiations with the other dealerships.
I started off Saturday at 11AM at David McDavid Acura in Plano, TX. I was encountered by a younger salesman and he wasn't being forward when talking about pricing when I told him I already had a quote and was wondering what theirs was. He kept explaining to me that this dealership was the first Acura dealership in the US and is very prestigious. I asked him what benefits does that do for me? Does it add luxury, power, MPG? No, so I don't care. When I told him the exact quote he smirked and said it was a fake quote and no way they could get it below that price because it was lower than invoice. I told him I understand it's below invoice, but I know there's also a factory to dealer incentive, along with a 3% holdback that the dealership makes profit off of. At $32.1k, the dealership is making 5% on me, which I wanted him to beat. He scampered off to the back for 5-10 min, then came back to inform me that the dealership would be competitive, but wouldn't give me a number. I shook his hand, took his card and told him I was going to the other dealership. He tried to talk trash about that dealership and their hidden fees. I smiled and laughed a little before I stated, "Come on, you already know I did my homework, I don't care about the fees, I'm looking at the bottom line. The only hidden fee I see is that you haven't given me a straight answer for the pricing." He then tried to get me to stay and negotiate pricing. I told him to expect a call in a few hours and have numbers ready.
I then ventured to Goodson Acura in Irving, TX (12:30ish PM). They have a huge billboard in front stating they are the #1 volume selling Acura dealership in TX. As I walked towards the door, an older salesman that was finishing his cigarette encountered me. As we walked to the car, we made small talk about random stuff and he told me he used to work in real estate, which gave me a clue that he is a patient salesman and I wasn't going to be able to out sit him. We got back in the office and we both agreed to make negotiations less painful and put all of our cards on the table. I told him I wanted the car for $31k. His eyes shot open really wide and then he asked me how I came up with such a low number. I explained to him all the info I had, and that number was roughly 3% to the dealership and he can make an extremely fast sale if he wants or we can drag it on and waste both of our time and his $/hr ratio would go down the drain with it. He stepped away from the desk for 10 min and came back to tell me that $31.6 was the best he could do, that he negotiated with the manager to meet halfway between the quote I had and the price I was looking for. I sat there as I pretended to work numbers in my head, and told him to go smoke another cigarette as I had to make a couple of calls. First was back to David McDavid, in which the guy told me that the $31.6k was going to have a bunch of add-on fees the salesman didn't include. He even used one of my sources (Edmunds) and stated that their TMV (True Market Value) was at $31.9k. I hung up on him in the middle of his speech because Goodson already wrote up a contract for the price, including all fees. I then called Vandergriff Acura in Arlington, where I had the initial quote from. The Goodson salesman slowly creeped into listening range when I was on the phone so in mid sentence I switched from English to Vietnamese (which the saleman at Vandergriff was also). Vandergriff was only able to match the $31.6K and I told him I was not willing to drive another 30min to negotiate unless the price was lower, which surprisingly he said he couldn't do and call him back if I changed my mind. He hung up, I finished the conversation back in English "OK I will probably see you in a bit." I turned around to walk back in when I noticed the salesman was within 5ft of me at this point. He asked what the magic number was to beat and I told him $31.2K. He said to be patient as he was going to have to snuff the manager and take negotiations into his own hands. After about 15 minutes of waiting, he came back with paperwork for $31,150 and told me that was the only thing he could squeeze off. I had the keys in my hand by 4PM. I even got them to give me 4 oil changes and another detailing job on my car since it was starting to rain by the time we got done.
My advice, do your homework. Use useful sites like edmunds.com and carbuyingtips.com in your research. Be prepared to waste a whole day if necessary. Go in with a full belly and dressed comfortably (but nice). Take control of the conversation and sound confident. Correct the salesman on any wrong info they are spitting out because that's their tactic on you to prove who has more knowledge. And for god sakes, read over every little thing you are about to sign. They "accidentally" left on the $499 VPS security fee for me, which when I caught I told them to stop wasting trees and print up a correct contract. Good luck!
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