Hi Guys,

I own a 6spd 2012 tl with 200k miles. I love this car except for two things the gas milege (lol) and more importanly the Engine burning oil. I got the car with worn camshafts and cat codes. I figured changing the camshaft will help. well now the cat codes randomly come and go, but the engine still burns oil, like about 1qt every 600 miles or so. I got the RV6 HFPC's to replace the cats but now im hesitant as the oil burning might destory these as well. Anyhow, I heard about the Frankenstein of J36 where you combine the dual vtec of j37 with the block of j35, so no crazy oil burning. But I can't find much info on this. is there a tutorial or any detailed guide on this? I am not a mechanic but i can follow guides (changed the camshafts by myself ).

Thanks in advance.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2...build-1005518/

 

^ That thread is actually for older (first gen) j series.
However, I did do also post a late model j36 thread in 4G TL performance:
https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-p...-swap-1004145/

 

To clarify, swapping heads from j37 to j35z will not make a j36. The j36 is essentially swapping the j35 crank and rods for j37. Due to the piston size differences (89 vs 90mm) there will be some reduction in the overall displacement. Hence, the term j36 vs j37.

In my case, I disassembled the j37a2 from an RL to extract the heads, crankshaft, rods and oil pump. I then had my j35z block bored over .5mm to fit 89.5mm pistons. I then reassembled the j35z block with the substituted j37 parts.

If one is familiar with rebuilding motors and has the necessary tools, it is a simple process. However, a less intensive method may be to simply purchase a j35z6 from a base 4G TL and swap the heads and oil pump. You will then have a j35 dual vtec.

 

Install J35Z6 from a front-wheel drive TL and forget about oil consumption. This is the cheapest and easiest option.
https://ahparts.com/buy-used/2012-ac...k1a11/290053-1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265766572070

 

thank you for the response guys, j35z6 engines seem to be kind of rare where I live, but that definitely looks to be the correct rout with swapping over the heads and pump to make it dual vtec. I'll have to keep a look out for it.

But does anyone know at what conditions this engine oil burns oil? Like I will go sometimes 1month to 1.5 months with no movement at the dipstick and then a week later it will be half or near the bottom. keeps me scratching my head...I use 5w30 full sythetic oil if that makes a difference

 

Cheap and good California engine for you https://ahparts.com/buy-used/2012-ac...k1a11/290053-1

 

Once the rings are clogged with carbon there's really no going back.

You could try a motor flush, but its not a for sure fix. I tried two flushes as in 10 mins of running with motor flush, then oil chg. Drive, come back, flush and chg oil again. Difference was negligible.

But, to be fair it was a junkyard motor that had been sitting for a while.

 

DMSO will help you.