gocal73

Go to Edmunds and enter an L.A. zip code and request price quotes. I think you'll be surprised with some good offers. Find the best price quote and then really start working. Contact every internet manager at as many dealers as you're willing to travel to purchase a car. Watch the prices melt down. But, don't jump right away unless you really need the car that minute. Wait until you get the deal YOU want. Do your communicating by email as email price offers do count a written offer when it comes time for final price negotiating.

I'm happy to good prices being posted from across the country. As for me, I'm starting to get follow up calls as the end of the month nears. I'm excited about the possibilites.

Happy hunting!

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

Thanks, jnc!

draph

Those are some good quotes, IF actual dealer cost is invoice, minus dealer cash, minus the 3% holdback. It seems 36,800 is pretty close to their cost. They won't sell if they aren't making money; so, either there are other kickbacks that sites like Edmunds don't know about or don't publish, or they are planning on getting some profit with a big advertising or documentation fee, or worse, a dealer prep charge added back to the final out the door price to you.

I'm very interested to learn what your final out the door price with all fees and taxes are (itemized would be great since sales tax rates vary by state). My gut instinct tells me there are far more kickbacks to dealers on luxury cars than lower priced cars. You only need to look at Edmunds to realize this. A Honda Civic has nearly the same difference between MSRP and invoice as a TL. Invoice price on an average Civic would be nearly 10% off MSRP where it would be closer to 5% off on a TL. One might argue volume makes up for a tighter margin on the Civic. Since there are far fewer Acura dealers than Honda dealers, I'd argue their individual volumes aren't that much different. Of course, Acura dealerships have a few more "free" services to customers that they have to expense from somewhere...

Here in the Midwest, I suspect the dealers will be less willing to deal than in LA. Given cost of living drives average salaries up, a TL out there might sell in volume an Accord does here - so maybe they can cut their margins a lot more in LA. I'll be checking prices in the three closest major cities to me; but, if I can save an extra couple of K by flying cheap one way to LA and driving my new car home, I just might...

Krashdoc

Wow. This price point is resparking my interest in awd 6mt. If I can get $30k for my trade in (08 tl s 6 mt 22k miles), I would pick up the 2010. That would be about $8000 plus tax out of pocket. Not too shabby of a deal. I was offered $30k about 6 months ago for my 08. How is the trade-in market these days?

stig

Gocal-

What dealerships in Norcal are giving you these quotes? I haven't started aggressively looking but would like to start with known good dealerships.

Thanks

DirtySouth_TL

Well I spoke to the dealer today and it seems that I won't get them to budge past 36.5k Considering the best quote I got is from a dealer in Irving (Im in New Orleans), price 35.8k I think it will be worth my while to buy from Walker in New Orleans. The 36.5k sticker includes a few extras like wheel locks, trunk tray, fender flaps, and other add ons... They also performed a dealer swap to get the Mayan Bronze color I really wanted. All in all I think I made out okay.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

Congratulations!

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

So this figure, $39, 476 - Would this be after TTL?

DirtySouth_TL

Sadly no.. That price is for a Base TL with Tech Package. Im at the mercy of a smaller dealership that just can't go any lower. I am giving them some value over the Texas's dealerships just for the sake of having a dealership contact within an hours drive.

My1stAcuraTL

I got my 1st 2009 TL Base last Sunday, paid $33,422 OTD with 1.9% for 60 months. What do you guys think about this deal?

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

^
Congrats! Seems good to me!

My1stAcuraTL

Thanks, princelybug.

acura_newbie

I'm looking for my first new car and fell in love with the acura TL! I live in NY and am close enough to NJ so I can definitely travel to Jersey to get a better price if possible. Right now I'm just doing some research and I haven't contacted any dealers yet. I stumbled upon this website and saw the prices that were being quoted and practically fell out of my chair! I searched for a NEW '09 TL, using websites like MSN autos, and the prices I got were just as much as a 2010 TL. My dream Acura TL is the Crystal Black Pearl 2WD-Tech with ebony interior. I'm still debating whether I should get an '09 or '10, and it's most likely going to depend on the price. I'm really looking to spend 35-36K but I don't know if that's possible if I buy in NY. The USAA True car price report is too good to be true, for me! I'm not sure how to go about getting this car for a price like 34K. Any suggestions would be great!

Kingmeow

I bought mine from Ramsey Acura but I remember someone who got theirs from Open Road Acura (Wayne) and seem to remember a slightly better price. I would give those two dealers a shot. Also I heard Park Ave. Acura which is further south (but still in Bergen) is good to work with.

George Knighton

First off, be certain of your credit. Provided you are sure your FICO score is 660 or greater, then you can be sure that as soon as they look into your background, they know that you will be able to get the money.

Don't contact anybody until you're ready to move.

Second, use the Internet to get your first points of contact. Volume Acura dealers are going to have Internet sales manager who will know that at this stage (1)you're probably serious and (2)you've likely contacted several people at the same time and you are getting good offers already.

Be aware of what the invoice price minus holdback is, be aware of the $2,000 that Acura are giving the dealers for each TL right now and don't be afraid to mention it.

Don't be bossy.

Just be a nice, friendly guy who happens to be knowledgeable, who happens to know what kind of money he can get, and who happens to just be knowledgeable enough to know what kind of price he can get.

By the time I bought my TL, I had spoken with the Internet manager, a salesman, the finance manager and the general manager, and all four were appreciative that it was an easy sale, and that all five of us knew what was going on.

One final, third tip: Keep your blood sugar up. Don't get tired. If you are absolutely sure of what you are doing, and you are sure you have the money and you know the price you'll pay, do not be afraid to go away for an hour and get something (small) to eat and come back.

Many good deals are lost when you get to the finance manager to sign the paperwork. The finance manager is on commission and he's going to want to sell you on extended warranties, paint protections and interior protections.

Don't get mad...it's his job. You can probably afford to buy an extended warranty from him if you want, because you've already negotiated a great price and he can work the warranty into the financed price of the car.

Personally, I did not mind spending $1900 for a 125,000 mile warranty...but other people here have spent less. And it's entirely up to you whether or not you add this...don't be pressured if you don't want to do it.

As long as you're not worn out by having spent a long day in the dealership, you won't lose it at this stage.

:-)

graphicguy

Personally, I'm one of the people who won't sit at a dealership for hours on end lobbing offers back and forth. I go in with a price in mind (in this case, probably invoice plus $500, less the $2K Acura marketing cash).

I also figure my own taxes and license fees. Those are fixed and shouldn't change. I add in another $50-$100 for a doc fee. Some will say that's not negotiable. But, if you make a total offer, including everything, the dealership can figure how they want to divide up the components of the offer.

I make one offer that includes all of that (figured before I walk into the dealerhship). I politely tell them up front that my offer is firm, and it's not negotiable. Recently, I've even had a check pre-printed from my bank (or, you can go to your bank/credit union and get a check pre-printed for the amount of your offer). I present the check and say that's all the money available. That pretty much tells the dealership you're seriously in the market. That also lets them reject a firm offer, if they're willing to do so.

It's either accepted, or it's not. If it's not, no hard feelings. I thank them for their time and move on.

Shouldn't take more than about 10 minutes for the offer to be accepted, or rejected.

If you want an extended warranty, dealer add ons, etc, I'd put a price on those and include them in the offer, too. That way, when you get into the F&I office, it should be only a matter of signing paperwork.

acura_newbie

wow thanks for all the suggestions! I feel a lot better about my future purchase. I was wondering if you'll think that paying upfront and not financing might help in negotiating the price? I am capable of paying the day I buy it but was thinking that financing approximately 10K would be good to build my credit in the future since this is my first large debt besides school loans. That's the other problem, since I haven't paid back a large loan before, it is most likely going to be extremely hard to get a loan even if my credit score is over 700. Then again, if paying upfront will save me $ then forget about building my credit! I do like the idea of going in with a pre-printed check! That's pretty awesome and ballsy!

Also I haven't heard of Acura giving dealerships 2K for every TL they sell. Is it possible that incentive is only for specific states?

Again, thanks for all the input it's greatly appreciated!

rs1statl

2010 CBP/umber AWD Tech, 37,500+TTL=40k OTD. Entire deal completed over internet. Initial dealer offer 38,9K, accepted counter of 37.5 as long as I closed before end of Jan. Done and never happier.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

^
Wow. Great deal. Congrats!

jsquare

hey guys (and gals), i'm new to the forum. bought a 2010 2 months ago from Pohanka Acura in Arlington, Va. Paid 34,400 for a base model with tech and 18 inch wheels and only 11 miles (no demo). not too bad i thought.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

^
Nice. Congrats!

graphicguy

I'm pretty certain the $2K dealer incentive is only for Tech models. Paying cash is the way to go. Interest on a $25K loan will top well over a thousand dollars, depending on length of the loan. Credit is real tight right now. Depending on your income to debt ratio, age, and previous credit history (if any) may not net you a car loan, anyway.

George Knighton

It might have an impact if you're shopping at a time that they're trying to make their numbers. The absolutely best time has passed (end of December) but toward the end of any calendar month is a good idea.

At 1.9% interest, I think that a lot of us are going to finance even if we could pay in cash. If inflation takes off the way that some people predict, then 1.9% will be far less than the rate of inflation.

And even if we are able to maintain a static situation, 1.9% is really nothing. I'd rather make other use of the cash, personally.

To some extent, Internet shopping has mitigated these conventional ideas, because if you come to them from the Internet they know that you're ready to buy and they know that it's likely that they are in competition with many other dealers who have responded to your queries.

You can check this by going to Edmunds and putting in your Zip code when you're researching a price.

Their software will return the incentives that are available in your Zip code.

At the time I bought my car, there was only $1,000 available back to the dealer, and people here who were researching at the time that I bought said that they couldn't get my deal at their Acura dealers.

Xpditor

Beware the dreaded "DEALER FEES" a/k/a "DOCUMENT FEES"!

This underhanded trick is fairly well controlled in California where state law requires such fees to be plainly stated on the window price tag and is limited to a dollar amount (I think it's $50).

In other states, I have seen this dirty trick amount to $995.

Just when you think you have a deal with a quoted price and you have signed the Purchase Order, they sneak these "FEES" in on a pre-printed form. You have to have your eyes wide open. Before you even sign an order... Ask the dealer if your agreed-upon price includes ALL FEES except for Sales Tax. If he says it does, have him write than on the order.

This is the most common, underhanded rip-off in the car business. These fees are not "normal" or "required", they are just additional PROFIT to the dealer.

Fore warned is fore armed.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

^
Good advice.

My1stAcuraTL

I just got to pay $55 for document fees.

Xpditor

The problem I have with your methodology is that you never know if you have received their best price. You have no way of knowing if Acura has just offered a dealer incentive that morning for an additional $1500.

I'm with you as far as deciding how much I want to pay. But I always open up my first offer about $5,000 below that. Then, let the dance begin. I also have a pre-printed check partially visible so they can see part of it. I use the kind from a bank that lets you fill in the amount up to, say, $50,000.

I REFUSE to pay the unscrupulous "document fee" or "dealer fee". It is a totally bogus device to boost the dealer's profit after you have agreed on a price. It is unethical and even criminal in many states. Yes... it is pre-printed on the Order form. I cross it off. If they don't remove it, I walk.

Of course, the dealer will reject my offer. But, it puts them on the defensive and they then come back with an equally ridiculous counter-offer. Or perhaps they already opened the negotiation with a high price. That's called business. Negotiation. They try to get as much as possible and you try to pay as little as possible. You meet somewhere in between.

If they come up with a price of, say, $40,000 and I am prepared to buy at $37,000, I will make an offer of $34,000. In other words, I will low-ball them by the same amount they high-balled me. Ideally, after a few thrusts and parries, we will end up near the middle. I also move in small increments. Never more than $500 at a time. As we get real close, I will ask for concessions such as mud guards, trunk tray, etc. which cost them very little but has a high retail markup.

Bottom line: Until they reject my offer and I have gotten up to leave AND they are willing to let me walk out to shop their price at another dealer.... I don't know that I have their lowest price. And I always walk out.... even if it just to see if they will chase me down the driveway. If they let me go, I can be pretty sure they can't go lower.

A sharp salesman and a successful dealer will NOT let a live, qualified customer leave the lot until they have exhausted every effort to make a deal because they know that sooner or later you're going to run into a real salesman (an inside slogan).

Xpditor

You must be in California. I think that is the maximum they are allowed to charge by law. And then only if it is clearly posted on the car window.

I'm working on getting a similar law passed in Florida.

Skwalker23

What about "Acquisition Fee"? On all my Acura lease offers from Chicago and Milwaukee dealers, they want to charge a $595 acquisition fee. Is this legit?

My1stAcuraTL

Yes, I'm in CA.

graphicguy

Anyone heard what the February incentives are going to be?

Xpditor

I have no experience with leasing but my intuition tells me it's the same crap.

Out there in the cold, cruel world or the marketplace, the watch word is "Caveat Emptor". Let the buyer beware.

Suffice it to say that everything is negotiable. If you balk at the "acquisition fee" and threaten to walk, they will probably remove it and try to get you some other way. I suspect they justify it as being the salesperson's commission. However, in generally accepted accounting principles and practices, sales commissions are considered as part of the overhead.

It seems however they can slide it in, lube or no-lube, they will try. That's the good ole American "free market" Capitalist way. And, for the last 20 years or so, all the consumer protections the Feds used to offer have gone down the tube. I'm not trying to start a political discussion in this thread which is why I cited a period of time that covers both political parties.

I remember when you couldn't be deceptive in advertising without being immediately dragged into court by the FTC and ordered to cease and desist.

I also remember when the number of commercials on TV was limited to 4 per half hour before midnight. No limits after midnight which was readily apparent.

queens207tl

Acquisition fee aka "bank fee" is a legit fee and is only associated with leases. I've never heard anyone negotiating it, but there is always a first.

BTW.. I am a proud new owner of 2010 SH-AWD w/ tech WDP and Ebony interior. Price $37,059 + TTL.

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

^
Congrats! Welcome. Make sure to post pics of your new car!

Xpditor

Welcome to the Acurazine family. And thanks for your input.

I did a little research and you are correct. That fee is charged by the leasing company and doesn't go to the dealer. Sometimes the leasing company will give a "kick-back" to the dealer for sending business their way, however. It is not negotiable by the dealer as it is not his fee. It is commonly added on the the capitalized cost of the vehicle and doesn't surface during negotiations for the car unless you ask what it is. It will be on the final lease agreement.

ejbrandt

Ok I was just at the dealer looking to buy and he quoted me the following:
2010 TL SH AWD + Tech Pack
37,991 + TTL

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

Where are you located? That's a good price, but you might be able to shave a couple hundred off if you're persistent.

acura_newbie

hey everyone! So I got a couple of quotes and I would like to try and get them a little lower. I got two quotes for the 2010 TL FWD with Tech: $34,998 and $34,534. The second quote is from a dealer which is an hour away so I'm going to try to get the first dealer to at least match it. I would like to try to get them to go lower but not sure how to do it over email. I really love this car and want to buy it tomorrow, but i haven't told them that! I was thinking of proposing 33,500 and then working up from there. I haven't mentioned anything about a big down payment yet, trying to save that as the last bargaining chip. I know these are good quotes but I have a feeling they can "give" a little. I also haven't asked them about the 2K dealer cash, should I? I know it's available in my area. I haven't even gone for a test drive yet because I know I will love this car! Also, should I upgrade to the 18" wheels? Is it too bold to suggest a lower price then end up where they first offered but, only if the original offer is considered OTD? What are your thoughts? Remember i'm new at this so I'm not sure what would be considered an insult! lol

Xpditor

He's a dealer. He's in business. He's starving. It's not his personal ride.

There's no such thing as an insult when making an offer.

Re-read the previous advice. You are well advised to hit him with an offer $5,000 or so LESS than you are ready to pay. This knocks them off balance but also shows you are serious about buying. You CAN'T do this by email. You must do final negotiations in person. "Would-you-takes" are a joke to the dealer. They are not going to waste there time with those. You can ask for their lowest price and then use that as a starting point when you go in. A big down payment means nothing to them as they get their money immediately either way. The dealer doesn't finance it; the bank does.

They will always start you with a price where they are making $2-3000 profit just to see if they can catch a live one. They start high; you start low. No one gets insulted (although I have known them to fake being insulted). These openers are just that: openers. An invitation to the dance.

It may be your first time, but they do it hundreds of times a week. They are pros at manipulating you, using psychology, etc. to squeeze as much out of you as possible. You have to have the same attitude or it will be like a lamb walking into the slaughter house.

There are many threads here. Check this posting of mine and then review the entire thread. This will give you a great advantage over going in cold:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...52&postcount=9

gosman

Here in Ft. Worth the local dealer is offering invoice less $2k and the 1.9%. Hard to beat but with the 3% roll back can we negotiate some free upgraded 18 inch wheels.