Car about 300kmiles, driving are fine no overheat. Hvac Heat Problem at driver side. What i have done is Added New resistor, new motor, new actuator motor both side. new thermostat, new etc sensor 1 and 2, new timing belt, and waterpump. Now my car pick up new issue driver side and middle dash doesn't have enough heat in winter, but my far right Vent have heat about 125F. Help.
Here video, this car doesn't have heat valve or something I can't find it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EULS-XGkzMI

 

I assume the heater core is clogged on the outside or the air filter is bad.

 

When i ramp up rpm to 4-5 i can hear the water flowing.
somehow this acura tl 2009 doesn't show any sign of heat valve control.

 

Heat coolant valve does not exist in this car.

 

Oh, thanks, then what could be problem only heat at passenger side. I'm out of option, because I changed new blend door actuator driver and passenger but doesn't help. I start to wonder could it be reset for bleed actuator air mix? how I do that? Like calibration thing.

 

I flush out the heat core by let water in then flow out other hose, water come out its look clean that I can see thu.

 

I already wrote that the heater core is most likely clogged from the outside, which is why air does not pass through it well.

 

I removed two hose by the firewall heatcore, flush out old style way.
You said it could clogged from the outside. I checked Out side by the firewall both hose are hot, about same temperature if you look into my videos I also point out the temperature it read. If it clogged up, one should be cold other hot, wouldn't it? Let me know your thoughts.
If you want i can get into, inside heat core coils to check the temperature

 

Have you physically seen the heater core? If there is an object on it, the air will only pass through certain coils, which is why it will not have time to heat up.

 

Yes, I have seen heat core i even touch it. And it burns my fingers. Im not home now. i will give you a temperature check. Thank you for stay with me.

 

Then maybe the case is that you simply have a low air flow, and the cold ducks physically cool the air and it reaches you cold? Have you tried simply increasing the speed of the blower motor?

 

Yes tried max fan, max heat. Now if I max fan my passenger side heat vent comes out a little lower like about 120-125. Normally, 1--3 bar fans it read 135f
I also Replaced new motor and resistor too,

something not right im confused to this point. This is why I thought of reset blend like calibration, not sure if it possible.

 

I checked my temperatures and it looks like the temperature on all hoses should be the same, but your heater core hoses are much colder.

 

The temperature difference between the heater core hoses and the vents in my TL is 30C, which means that your cabin temperatures are correct.

 

Ok, I double check again, this time I let the car run idle for 1hour, by the firewall, outside the two heat core hose 1 measured 175F, and other measure 130F.
What should i do now? Difference are 45F

I redo my actuators also, turn on max Temp, and fans, two vents at driver are still not hot read 90F,
but two vent from passenger are 103F,
winter come soon and I can't have like this help.

 

My guess is that the system is working correctly, but the flow in the heater core hoses is not stable, which is why you have a low temperature of the hoses, I would try to drain the coolant from the radiator and try to pump out the air vith a Vacuum Refill Kit to be 100% sure that there is no air in the system.

 

did you replace the right motors? It sounds like you have a temp blend door actuator issue and maybe you replaced the mode ones? make sure your replace #16 and check operation that it's not binding or has something blocking full movement of linkage. you can change the temp and watch the motor/linkage move, make sure it's moving all the way to hot.